South Bend 8K photos

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Check this out Swifty, one of those guidescope mounts I machined years ago bolted right on my 8K so I can clean up and chamfer the ends of the 2" 6061 tubing I machine. It's near dead center to the chuck, what's the chances of that? The first photo is about where the carriage and rest will be with the compound angled in, with the tool angle and rotating the tool post I should be able to clear the tool tip. I'll machine some threaded delrin tips for the thumbscrews.

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Just goes to show, if you hang on to something long enough, you will eventually find a use for it. Paul.

I've learned the hard way not to throw things (sell, lend or similar) out too. Seems like immediately afterwards you have a pressing need for that thing.
 
I talked to Brian Miller of Miller Machine today and he told me the SB sleeve I sent him matches no known tapers, Morse, Jarno etc. No wonder his perfect, 0 runout sleeve he made me didn't fit the spindle right. He had me sweep the spindle and send him the numbers to crunch. Also I did the marker test on the other sleeve I had and I think it's good enough to get a taper off of. I'll send him that too. The last photo is the other sleeve.

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Did a quick turn flip turn test for repeatability with a short piece of steel I had left over. I got .609" at both ends with both mics. 5" D1-3 chuck, I'll do the 4" D1-3 later.

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Received the long awaited South Bend bull nose today (lost in warehouse for 4 days). Packaged well and looks like a nice piece. 2nd sleeve well on it's way to Brian and hopefully he can turn it around next week so I can do some tests/alignment. (Headstock, tailstock etc.)

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While my tractor warmed up in the shop waiting for the coming snow storm I ran some tests of the two chucks and also the spindle.

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First up was the four inch that comes with the lathe:

Runout at chuck face - .0005"
runout at three inches - .001"

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Next was repeatability by turn/flip/turn test of the 4".
.590" on one end and .591" on the other. Note the red marked "Best" chuck key shaft.

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Next I put the 5" on: This chuck also has a "Best" chuck key shaft

Runout at chuck face - .0005"
Runout at three inches - .0005"

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I also checked the runout of the spindle

Runout at spindle bore not measurable with my test dials
Runout at spindle shoulder - .0005"

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After six hours of shuffling snow around I tried out that bull nose, the missing key to the puzzle. As far as I'm concerned that process is sorted out so I can move on to another project. Some will be happy about that!;D
BTW that was a fresh carbide insert, not even the Cermet!

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To wrap things up I rotated the cermet insert and turned from the tailstock to the red line. The other side is carbide. The last photo should have been sideways, the light plays tricks on your eyes. Just to make things equal I flipped it and put the Cermet on the bottom.

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Finally received my South Bend 5'/8" drill chuck. Center drilling some brass for some other prototypes I'm making. Also nice the 8K let's you slide the tool post to the other side of the stock.

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Got sick of putting up insulation so started on the weight prototype. The unturned part I turned a couple days ago is already getting a patina.

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Partially cut off weight with cut off tool then finished in the band saw...........

Finished weight, came out exactly 2 lbs. like I calculated...(Yeah right!)

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Center drilled then peck drilled from both ends a piece of 3/16" brass with a 5/64" drill bit. After the bit was 1/2 way in I loosened the tailstock and slid the bit in and out to drill and clear chips, much faster than cranking the tailstock handle. Came out perfectly centered and both holes aligned at the center. This is for a mod to the spindle oiling fittings, I don't care for the ball oilers! The ball oilers are a tap in fit so I'll have to come up with the correct taper for the casting.

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I had to change my plan, there's not enough room for a Gitts type oiler and get the belt door closed. I pulled the fittings out and drilled out the openings until the ball & spring popped out then machined brass plugs. I use an oral syringe and auto brake bleeder hose and it works great. You don't need the syringe but I recommend the clear tubing so you know oil is getting in your bearings.

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I wanted to see how the 8K handled tapping so I switched the belt to low range and tapped out the solid bar prototype I'm machining. I left the tailstock loose so it would follow the tap in and out to clear chips and add fluid. The 8K has a motor and electronics that let you reverse direction without stopping, great for tapping.
Ups dropped off my Brass bar from Online Metals for popping tools out of the spindle. I'll probably shorten it a little!

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