Rider Ericsson Help

[davidyat]

The bushings are not meant to stay in the tube. They are only there to keep the grill brick centered until the epoxy sets on the aluminum piece with the 2 set screws. I installed the displacer piston top and rod into the machine. Placed the bushings in the cylinder, put some epoxy on the displacer grill brick and pushed it into place on the machine. The next day, I removed the whole assembly, took out the bushings and reassembled the completed displacer piston and was very pleased that it seemed to maintain the 0.065 space between the piston and the cylinder wall. So today, I'm painting the displacer piston with high heat paint. And wouldn't you know it, it falls out of the unit that was holding it during painting and managed to break. At least the break was clean (2 pieces) with no visible flakes. So I just epoxied the 2 parts back together and will see tomorrow if I succeeded. If so, I will put it all together, add some heat and see if I have a working machine or a paperweight. Also, thanks for all your help.
Grasshopper

 

[davidyat]

P.S. I also have 2 more grill bricks if I feel like making another one if the broken one doesn't work.
Grasshopper

 

[davidyat]

The bushings are not meant to remain in the machine. They are only there to center the displacer in the machine. I installed the displacer rod and the top with the two small set screws into the machine, put some epoxy on the grill brick displacer piston, pushed it into the cylinder with the bushings and waited 24 hours. Took everything out and the piston is nicely positioned very close to center with the 0.065 space between the displacer piston and the cylinder walls. I'm in the process of painting the cylinder with the high heat paint. Will see if it works soon.
Grasshopper

 

[davidyat]

Bob,
Until I see you at NAMES, it looks like I have a really nice paperweight with the Rider Ericsson. I installed the displacer piston after 4 or 5 coats of high heat paint. Made sure everything was buttoned up tight and moving freely. Placed a container of water with ice cubes in it and made sure the pump was pumping correctly, it was. Added the heating element (Sandy C Burner). Was heating the unit for about 3 to 5 minutes, water circulating properly and couldn't even get a fart out of the machine. No indication that it wanted to turn under its' own power. I'm going to check to see if the power piston (grill brick) is still intact. If so, I'll just start another project and take the Rider to the show and we can talk about it. The only thing that makes sense to me, is that it's not turning freely enough.
Grasshopper

 

[BobsModels]

When heating how hot does the base plate get. That is can you put your finger on the base plate right next to the cylinder and hold it there? How big a diameter is the burner unit. I know the Campbell burner is about 2". Not sure I saw the Sandy burner. Mine is 3/4" running on about .8 to 1 psi, real small flame.

Bob

 

[davidyat]

The Sandy burner is the same one as the burner at the end of your PDF file that I've been using on my build. You are calling it, " Sandy Campbell design", that's where I got Sandy C from. I have built 2 burners. One with a ceramic disc diameter of 1.100 inch and another of 1.960 inch. I've started with the smaller one. Tomorrow I will look at the grill brick displacer and make sure it didn't break up with my initial heating. If it's OK, I'll heat up the unit again and let you know if I can hold my finger next to the base of the cylinder with the power piston in.
Grasshopper

 

[fcheslop]

Hi, my engine with pump attached will run from one 6mm dia wick meths fired and the speed needs regulating to make it run slower or it flys away
From the videos she looks a bit tight if not then try and see if there is any air leaks
When cold the engine should turn freely and at one place have a bit of bounce .
A lot of dead space will also stop it running. When I set my engine up it was turned over and adjusted the displacor until it touched the power piston then backed away 1/4 of a turn. I increased the dia of the displacor and fitted a regenerator as per the Robey engines but this was my choice nothing to do with the design
Like Bob I used through bolts for the cylinder and hot cap and it only has a thick cardboard gasket at the hot cap. This choice had already been made as the engine is made from some rescued castings
I had to redraw my engine due to badly machined castings and Bobs built was very helpful
When assembling the engine I had some slight binding due to the beam not centering and also from the beam to piston links one had become slightly out of square until these faults were sorted it would not run and yet it didnt seem that tight
After running for an hour or so the engines base plate is only slightly hot to the touch
They canbe infuriating engines to get going but are great fun
Good luck
cheers
frazer

 

[davidyat]

What is that valve you are adjusting in the video? At the base of the power cylinder and at the base plate?

 

[davidyat]

And I also think you're right on the tightness of my machine. I will work on freeing it up some more. And I don't think I have that bounce or pop you're talking about. So, more investigation on how well sealed the unit is.
Grasshopper

 

[fcheslop]

The valve is basically a needle valve that creates an air leak that slows the engine down
On the original engines and on the Hienrici engines they have a snifting valve a bit like a safety valve just backwards.Just not got round to making it yet and the needle valve works OK
When I first fired my engine up I didnt have the pump connected just a bit of water in the cylinder
In the past Iv had to dunk the whole engine in water to find air leaks a bit overkill but it worked
They are frustrating engines and Iv often doubted my sanity just be methodical and you will get there
As you turn the engine over you should feel at one spot a definite sort of compression feeling and if you spin the flywheel it will bounce back from this position
With the hot cap removed if you spin the flywheel it should rotate a few turns and then rock back and forward a few times as it stops if not its tight
Hope that makes a little sense as Im not the most eloquent of posters and find it difficult to explain



At the start of this Ringbom engine video you can see the bounce Im talking about its a lot smaller engine but should give you some idea



cheers
frazer

 

[davidyat]

You just confirmed what I was thinking. Dunk the whole thing into a 5 gallon bucket of water to see where the leaks are. I will probably plug up the water intake and introduce some air into the water exit from the cylinder, while the whole thing is underwater. Just wonder how many bubbles are going to come out of that machine? "you should feel at one spot a definite sort of compression", would this spot be at the top or bottom of the power piston stroke?

 

[BobsModels]

I mentioned the air leak issue earlier and it is probably the most unforgiving of all issues in a Hot Air Engine. For a degree of control you might want to use soap suds. You can cover each area one at a time. Start at the top where the displacer rod goes through, I know a number of people have had to make a packing fitting for it. Then move to the piston and just work your way down. As Frazer mentioned it must rotate freely when no compression. Like my first video. Just rock back and forth to a stop. You should be able to see the bounce, disconnect the water pump to make sure you do not get a false reading on the bounce because the pump can mimic a bounce with the check valve and any water trapped in the pump. What did you use for the power piston seal? Teflon? I used graphite cord (ie old fashion packing for faucets) and it has been in the engine for four years with close to 400 hours of running time. It is super slippery.

Keep going you will get it going

Bob

 

[fcheslop]

Hi Bob, four years by time does fly
I cannot add to what youve already said air leaks and friction kill these engines
For the piston seal Iv just used plumbers PTFE tape not very technical but it has done the job .
I did find a couple of air leaks on my engine one was at the mounting for the cylinder onto the base casting
the other on the other side where the hot cap bolts to the bed plate. The casting was like a Swiss cheese so may have moved after machining a bit of gasket cement cured it
Thanks again for youre build pdf it was a great help when I had to redraw my engine as it gave some good ideas and a few points to watch for
Keep well
kind regards
frazer