Powder painting a flywheel

[Sparky_SC]

Brian,
Good to see that it all worked, the flywheels look great, the powder looks like it flowed out great. I would like to get into this as well, but I just don't have the room.
Cheers
Andrew

You don't have to dive as deep as Brian did. Many/most skip the sandblaster and use a toaster oven. A spray booth isn't really needed either. I just put either a cardboard or a plastic sheet on the floor. The overspray is very very little due the the electrostatic charge. Far less overspray than a rattle can of paint.

The pics of Brians booth after spraying are probably due the the fan overwhelming the electrostatic charge on the part. He should try it once with the fan off, it might work even better with far less waste.

 

[GreenTwin]

The pics of Brians booth after spraying are probably due the the fan overwhelming the electrostatic charge on the part. He should try it once with the fan off, it might work even better with far less waste.

I agree, he is just drawing the powder away from the part, into the filter.
I mentioned this earlier.
He will get it all ironed out, and find out the optimal configuration for things.
There is a certain amount of trial and error when learning/setting up a new process.

Us armchair folks can only sit back and watch others achieve things; one day hopefully I too will get to build and do some more engine stuff.
The flywheels look great, so mission accomplished !
.

 

[willray]

Brian,
...Lower than rated voltage has a HUGE effect on devices with a resistance heating element. Items such as TV's and electronics usually have a pretty wide rated operating voltage.

Nominal line voltage in north America is 120 volts even though many people routinely refer to it as 110 volts.

Now for some ohm's law calculations ! Lets assume your oven is rated 120volts and 1500 watts. IF the voltage at the outlet was 110 volts that would reduce the power to 1260 watts, a 16% reduction in heat output. 110 volts would most likely not be even noticed elsewhere in the house.

If Brian's voltage is low enough to affect the maximum attainable temperature of the oven, I would STRONGLY, STRONGLY STRONGLY suggest not running the oven, and probably not running anything on that circuit until an electrician has a look.

If his voltage under load is low enough to cause the oven to not reach operating temperature, this suggests a SERIOUS wiring problem that should be addressed yesterday if not sooner.

The temperature of an oven like Brian has, should be dominated by the thermostat. The maximum temperature isn't (or at least shouldn't be, if it wasn't designed by malicious idiots) the steady-state temperature at which power input is matched by heat losses through the envelope. Instead the maximum temperature should be a product of the thermostat cycling the elements on and off to maintain the set-point temperature, and there should be quite a lot of headroom in the available power to maintain that temperature. Without that headroom, the oven would take forever to reach operating temperature if there was a heat sink (cold parts) in the oven.

If the voltage checks out as anywhere within the plausible range for OK wiring in the US, I think there's still a good reason to suspect a faulty thermostat in the oven. If the voltage is much below the 114V (NEC 5% drop) limit, I'd ALSO start looking for faulty wiring upstream of the outlet - this is potentially a symptom of a serious fire hazard.

 

[mnay]

Brian,
I have enjoyed and learned much from your sandblasting and powder coating adventures.
I am going to make the siphon valve for my HF sand blast cabinet.
Good luck on getting your engine to run.
Mike