Otto Langen engine 1867

[Gedeon Spilett]

Great success with this temperamental runner, very instructive build, thanks to share.
Kudos, Gerard !

 

[Antonio]

salve ragazzi complimenti per quello che riesce a fare con grande impegno realizzando i capolavori di storia.
Vorrei realizzarne qualcuno anche io sapreste indicarmi dove posso trovare i piani del motore DAIMLER del 1866 in scala.
ve ne sarei molto grato in attesa cordiali saluti da ITALIA. ANTONIO

 

[lkrestorer]

gg89220,
I realize this is a pretty old post but I'm currently working on a model of this engine and have a question (actually, many but time will straighten out most of them )
I'm making the column in three pieces like you did and have a cylinder sleeve, also. What I've started to be concerned about is how to fasten the four pieces together so they won't get easily dislodged. All of my fits are quite good but are not press fits. Will Locktite be adequate? I don't want any set screws that might show.

 

[gg89220]

I think I glued the bottom and top element with a cylinder sleeve.
locktite yes adequate

 

[lkrestorer]

think I glued the bottom and top element with a cylinder sleeve.
locktite yes adequate

Thank you for the reply. My concerns were about possible running heat and vibration loosening the bond. Obviously I won't be doing anything of the sort until I'm at final assembly and have made sure that it won't need to be disassembled again.

 

[gg89220]

it does not heat up much, no problem

 

[weir-smith]

it does not heat up much, no problem

 

[weir-smith]

gg89220

I am currently building the Otto Langen engine and it is 80% complete. The build was to take place over a 12 month period however I am moving into an apartment where I will not have a workshop after 40 odd years of model engineering. As a result, the build is being done over a six week period before my machines are collected by their new owner. So that is the background.

My question is to do with the small spring located on the paw eccentric but I can't work out what its purpose is. You can see the pivot point and the anchor point but the other end is a mystery. If you can provide some clarification it would be most appreciated. Next week I have to complete the valve assembly and with luck the engine will be complete except for the finishing and adjusting etc.

Bruce Weir-Smith
Western Australia.

 

[gg89220]

hello
there are 2 springs, one lifts the leg, the other rests on the pawl .

 

[weir-smith]

hello
there are 2 springs, one lifts the leg, the other rests on the pawl .
View attachment 132220View attachment 132221

 

[weir-smith]

Thankyou for the photos and it is appreciated. I can now see the spring arrangement which was not clear on the drawings.

Bruce W-S

 

[lkrestorer]

gg89220,

I am proceeding fairly well with my version of this engine but I'm getting to some of the more technical parts. I'm working on this with a long-distance relationship with my friend Bruce in Perth, Australia. He has posted a couple of questions, also.

I'm working on the fuel valve and the timing right now with a ways to go before I'll be done. I have two questions: What specific components did you use for the ignition (I've already made the spark plug) and what is that nice little valve you are using for the fuel inlet/regulator?

 

[gg89220]

hello
I use a gas lighter controlled by a switch. I added a needle screw recovered from a model carburator , the gas bottle is equipped with a pressure regulator

 

[PhilL]

Looking good!!
One thing I've not been able to figure out is the ratchet pawl when unlatched, still clicks against the gear. I'm trying to figure out how to get it to pull back just a bit further so it doesn't click. Does anyone else have that problem?

 

[natalefr]

Congratulations !

 

[DKGrimm]

Looking good!!
One thing I've not been able to figure out is the ratchet pawl when unlatched, still clicks against the gear. I'm trying to figure out how to get it to pull back just a bit further so it doesn't click. Does anyone else have that problem?

Yes. I added a little bit of downspring pressure on the slide valve push rod. That tends to pull on the valve eccentric a bit to hold just a little pressure against the pawl stop. That works perfectly.

The only problem is where to put the spring. On my engine I modified the ignition point arrangement completely. An extension rod goes from the slide valve through the base into the cavity below, so I could put a light coil spring on that. I Rigged up a Hall sensor on that rod to trigger the ignition, and that works well.

I'm still running on acetylene, having given up on propane, but the idea of using MAPP gas sounds intriguing.