New Mill

[vlmarshall]

I remember seeing a spring loaded lock pin mod that was built in but cant remember where. I think minimill.com but did not see it it may have been moved to the premium content section not sure.
Tin

Like this? http://www.bedair.org/MiniMill/spindlelock.html

Or this one? http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Reviews/sp_lock/sp_lock.htm

I don't know what the lock pin looks like on your mills. ;D

 

[black85vette]

Thanks Vernon. I checked those links out and I think I now know what I want to do. If it works out it will be extremely simple. (and quick)

I do have another question about this mill. How tight does an R8 collet need to be tightened? My experience with milling on my lathe was with an MT3 collet to hold the end mill and I cranked the draw bar pretty tight because there was a direct relationship between the draw bar and how tight the end mill was held. On the R8 however there is no relationship. The end mill is held in place by a set screw. Also the R8 is not dependent on friction to turn the collet since it has a groove with a pin that rides in it. So I have been tightening it just "hand tight" with an open end wrench. Sure makes it easy to get loose and remove the collet. But I was wondering if this is tight enough. Seems to cut OK like this. I did some 20 thou cuts in mild steel with no problem.

2nd question; does the belt drive conversion still have the hole for the spindle lock?

 

[Troutsqueezer]

I read somewhere that it only needs to be snug. Since then I've eased up on the wrench considerably. Haven't any problems with it and now it only takes a slight tap with the rubber mallet to get it to drop loose when I am removing it. I've also read that its better if you can avoid having to strike the draw pin too hard to loosen it. Something about not knocking the daylights out of the bearing any more than is necessary.

 

[black85vette]

I read somewhere that it only needs to be snug. Since then I've eased up on the wrench considerably. Haven't any problems with it and now it only takes a slight tap with the rubber mallet to get it to drop loose when I am removing it. I've also read that its better if you can avoid having to strike the draw pin too hard to loosen it. Something about not knocking the daylights out of the bearing any more than is necessary.

That is sort of what I was thinking, but I thought I would ask rather than assume.

 

[Tin Falcon]

I second the snug up on the draw bar.
as far as the second question . I assume you are refurring to the Stirling Steele design from LMS. Yes it has the tommy bar hole.
Tin

 

[spuddevans]

I remember seeing a spring loaded lock pin mod that was built in but cant remember where. I think minimill.com but did not see it it may have been moved to the premium content section not sure.
Tin

I dont know if this will help, but I made my own X2 belt drive conversion and included a sprung spindle locking pin. (you try saying that 3 times quickly :big: )

I did a build log of it from start to finish, but the spring loaded pin part is here.


Tim