Nemett Lynx 15 cc 4 Stroke I/C Petrol Engine

[tornitore45]

I am collecting parts before starting and have problem sourcing:
The belt
The big end roller bearing sleeve. As a cope out I see no problem here making the crank pin 10mm and harden it to fit directly the needles ID, unless someone see a problem.

Anyone can share a source? Preferably USA.

 

[Swifty]

I had no problem at my local bearing suppliers getting most things, the only part that they didn't have in stock was the inner sleeve for the big end bearing. They could have ordered one in easily enough, but I modified the design and used a hardened 10mm pin on the crank. The belt was supplied as a standard item from the place I ordered the wheels.

For the belt, just make sure that you are looking at mechanical transmission suppliers.

Paul.

 

[tornitore45]

I modified the design and used a hardened 10mm pin on the crank.

He, he Great minds think alike.
In my search I dig up lots of UK and AU sources but spotty and incomplete stocking US side.
I guess is time for the US to take the last painful step to metricate the last 5% of the industry.

 

[gus]

I am collecting parts before starting and have problem sourcing:
The belt
The big end roller bearing sleeve. As a cope out I see no problem here making the crank pin 10mm and harden it to fit directly the needles ID, unless someone see a problem.

Anyone can share a source? Preferably USA.

Hi Mauro,

Welcome to the Nemett-Lynx Engine building Team. It's been fun building this engine. Did get one sleepless night but woke up and chided myself,its not paid work and I won't get the sack. Went back to sleep.
Tried to buy pistons from the usual USA vendor but they make only imperial size rings.Was forced to cut the rings using Malcom's method. I came up with 6 out of 7 rings. Making your own piston rings now no longer a black magic art. Next would the valves and the cams. Not difficullt if you religiously read and follow Malcom's Work Instructions.

 

[gus]

Valve guides done and pressed in. Tappetts done too. Valve will be fun and that will be next week. Not fishing tomorrow but will turn up to see my fisho friends bring in their catch.

 

[gus]

This is third set of DIY valves cut on the lathe. Left it unparted to use other end as lapping handle.
Also tried hand coiling valve springs. Scrapped first two springs to try out hand coiling. A very tight firm grip on SWG 20 wire is a must to get good spring forming.
Made two good springs 8 turn x 7 mm OD x 16 mm L. .

Will move on to cam cutting. Before doing so,some prepping required.
RT has no angle graduation and some form DRO or dial required.
Will be fun.To get good results,you need the tools and jigs etc etc.

 

[doubletop]

Mauro - try here http://www.beltingonline.com/ not the US but cheap and they ship

Pete

 

[tornitore45]

Thanks for the belt source.

I am not yet building the Lynx, just collecting the purchase parts and some missing metal stock, also scrutinizing the drawings to understand as all fit together. I will probably "imperialize" the design a bit, where possible.

Presently building the Dulcos 6 strokes hit&miss but the Lynx is definitively next, is just too good looking an engine.

 

[gus]

Thanks for the belt source.

I am not yet building the Lynx, just collecting the purchase parts and some missing metal stock, also scrutinizing the drawings to understand as all fit together. I will probably "imperialize" the design a bit, where possible.

Presently building the Dulcos 6 strokes hit&miss but the Lynx is definitively next, is just too good looking an engine.

Hi Mauro,

Malcom's dimensions, fastener sizes, drillled/tapped hole centre distances are very tight. A slight miss can mean clashing. I did have have some clashes when
I ventured off. The outer-head counterbore diameter must be exact.The cam box drilled holes can clash. I messed with the 1/4'' plug and went to 10 mm
CM6 was very unforgiving. Did my trade school in Imperial Units and took quite a while to go metric. Glad I did as Imperial Size fasteners are nearly non-existing in Singapore.

 

[Swifty]

Mauro, here is a link to a belt supplier in Texas. A google search of timing belts or synchronous belts will give you lots of suppliers.
http://www.bdi-usa.com/Locations.aspx?State=TX

Paul.

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Gus,

Getting on great with that engine !
Anyway here is my contribution to help with the RT calibration !
http://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/divider
If you have a nosey round the site there is also one for linear scales.

HTH.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Gus I truly do hope you are feeling better. Where are you at now on this engine?--I see over on Swifty's thread that you seem to be re-making many of the pieces. Have you made the cams yet? The cams are not terribly difficult, just time consuming, and you really do need a rotary table with degree markings and some form of digital readout on the quill advance. I have been so tied up on my build that I have lost track of where you are on your build. Mine is finished now so I will have to live through your build and Swifty's build.---Brian

 

[gus]

Gus I truly do hope you are feeling better. Where are you at now on this engine?--I see over on Swifty's thread that you seem to be re-making many of the pieces. Have you made the cams yet? The cams are not terribly difficult, just time consuming, and you really do need a rotary table with degree markings and some form of digital readout on the quill advance. I have been so tied up on my build that I have lost track of where you are on your build. Mine is finished now so I will have to live through your build and Swifty's build.---Brian

Hi Brian,

Made too many errors on the Outer-Head which is really a base for 4 sub-assemblies to mount on. Guess I am not familiar with CAD prints. Still in the 1960s of hand drawn drawings which easy to read and comprehend.
Having made so many errors,I have learnt good lessons and the second outer-head looks good and will take on the sub-assemblies. Now have the tools required for the job. Come tomorrow the Outer-head will be done.

Am glad I moved on.
Next week will see to new tools and accessories to tackle the cam milling.

 

[gus]

Hi Gus,

Getting on great with that engine !
Anyway here is my contribution to help with the RT calibration !
http://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/divider
If you have a nosey round the site there is also one for linear scales.

HTH.

Hi Baron,

Thanks for the divider. Bought a protractor and mounted on the bottom with cheap n nasty indicator. See foto. Looks like cam cutting can proceed next week. Being a born loser/goofer(mistake prone,will read Malcom's Work Instructions many times to comprehend. The engraving carbide cutter has yet to arrive. Will proceed with protractor. Will trial cut one cam.

 

[gus]

Gus I truly do hope you are feeling better. Where are you at now on this engine?--I see over on Swifty's thread that you seem to be re-making many of the pieces. Have you made the cams yet? The cams are not terribly difficult, just time consuming, and you really do need a rotary table with degree markings and some form of digital readout on the quill advance. I have been so tied up on my build that I have lost track of where you are on your build. Mine is finished now so I will have to live through your build and Swifty's build.---Brian

Hi Brian,

RT with temporary protractor done. Foto attached.The cheap n nasty degree reader is not M.I.C. but M.I.S.(Made in Singapore)
Now moving on to cook up a DRO tonite.
Thanks for the kind help and support. Gus is still a very green horn in engine
building but I am learning fast with two running engines under his belt and one more to come soon plus many more before I drop dead. Gus is 71 and counting his days one by one.Every day is a blessing and bonus.
Take care.

 

[BaronJ]

Hello Gus,

I think that is very inventive of you ! Well done.

Now as far as "Gus is 71 and counting his days one by one. Every day is a blessing and bonus." I'm not too far behind you. I agree with every word.

 

[gus]

All righty. Gus should be back on his horse again. Here is the proof. My mental block --------the Foot Pedal Speed Controller is done and tuned and live tested with 110v Coffee Grinder which I mistakenly bought and not usable for Singapore's 230v supply.
This is the second attempt. The 110v----220v electronic speed controller got into stonewall surged and made fishing line spooling
of large baitcasting unstable. Spooling smaller reels was very good and stable but larger larger reels we had very unsteady spooling and breaks fishing lines. Hopefully Foot Pedal Speed Controller will past the line loading test tomorrow.
RT is done and calibrated. Number stamping was done with a jig.W/o same jig. there will be dancing numbers.
Some prepping to be done before cam cutting.

 

[gus]

Now moving on away from the two year old Foot-Pedal Speed Controller nightmare. Every fix I came up with last only six months with the M.I.C. Rheostats. The last electronic Speed Control Device went wacky .

With a mini mill it is just impossible to mount magnetic stand and dial gage as per Malcom's.My mini mill is not much bigger than the magnetic stand and dial set.See foto.
Been brain storming for a month. Here is my solution. Drill into mini mill's radial arm.Was very painful for Gus to mutilate mill. However the outcome looks good.

One last prep to do before cam cutting. The Centre Support which must be simple/good and fits on to the mill table.The Vertek Angle Plate bought in HongKong last year would help make simple Centre Support.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Gus--Check your email and your junk folder. I sent you a drawing yesterday with all of the critical Lynx cam dimensions on it.---Brian

 

[gus]

Gus--Check your email and your junk folder. I sent you a drawing yesterday with all of the critical Lynx cam dimensions on it.---Brian

Hi Brian,

Thanks.

Now working on the tail stock to steady/support cam blank.