Swifty
Well-Known Member
Gus, I have 0.10mm clearance between the tappet and the cam when it's not working.
Paul.
Paul.
Getting close now Gus, I don't know if the boss will be happy with that dirty on one side shirt. It may have been accidental, but in your last picture, you have the belt tensioner on the inside, it should be on the outside.
Paul.
Looking very good Gus. I am still watching and crossing my fingers for your first successfull run.---Brian
Getting close now Gus, I don't know if the boss will be happy with that dirty on one side shirt. It may have been accidental, but in your last picture, you have the belt tensioner on the inside, it should be on the outside.
Paul.
------------------The Carb sents shiver to my spine.All my DIY carbs went to scrap bin.
looking good Gus, getting anxious to see / hear it run.
question on the cam, do you polish or anything to remove the "scale" or oxidization caused by the red hot heat? or does that simply wear / flake off?
Gus, you have the belt tensioner running on the toothed part of the belt, pushing it towards the outside. It should be on the smooth side of the belt, pushing it in. The engine runs anticlockwise when looking at the flywheel.
Paul.
Hi Pete,
.................. I like your carby .Did you DIY it??
Gus--According to Malcolm Stride, you are supposed to carefully "dress" the machined surfaces of the cam with a fine diamond file before heat treating to remove all of the micro-ridges left by the cam machining process. Then after hardening, you can clean the scale off the faces by rubbing on a fine sheet of carborundum paper. When I made my cams, I got so excited at my success that I immediately hardened them without using a diamond file on them (I forgot that step!!). I did give them a slight wipe on some fine carborundum paper after heat treating. The fact that I missed the "diamond file the micro-ridges before hardening" doesn't really seem to have made any difference to how the cams function.---Brian
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