Mery 6-stroke kit.

[Jack3M]

Morning Phil. Yes, that is my goal. I still want to indicate from the outside too, since I already screwed up once. Ordered one of those attachment to the quill holders, got it yesterday, but wasn't feeling good enough to try it. Maybe today. Today the hole decision will be made....Or, I could just go fishing and say bolt it.

 

[PhilL]

Have you exhausted the possibilities of having external help? I can't help but keep thinking the flywheel is about a 2hr job in a lathe. You don't have a small jobbinbg shop or a technical school around that you could enlist?

 

[Jack3M]

Nope been there looked at that. No one wants anything to do with such a small job

 

[Jack3M]

Alright, got it, straight and true. No photos been crazy day and looking now like the rest of this week will be the same. Will post photos after color. Very happy with results, took the average of the center of the spokes, the hub, and the outer diameter. Worked out to my satisfaction.

 

[PhilL]

Sweet!!!

 

[Jack3M]

Getting a few spare minutes. Great story that goes along with the photo.


I put clear lacquer on the bare shiny metal to keep from oxidation. Well when I went to put it on yesterday, had to buy a new can. Had the clear lid, the shelf labeled clear, but some anal pore put gloss white with the clear lid. Of course I didn't read the can and started spraying. Well remember I said that lacquer thinner attacks powder coat? You got it, had to do the whole damn thing over again.

I left the outer side rings with a brushed finish, not shiny like the outer ring. Need to make a balancer so it may be balanced.

 

[PhilL]

Jack, I think you're going to beat me for number of repaints!
Looks great though.

 

[Jack3M]

.Took a piece of drill rod, a pair of skateboard bearings and turned the ends down for the center of the bearings. Used that to get a static balance on the wheel by holding the outer races of the bearings. It took 13 grams to balance. Carefully in the heavy area drilling in the outer side ring on each side. Several checks to assure not too much taken. As this was done the heavy spot moved a little and had to add 3 more tiny dimples to finish out the balancing.

 

[Jack3M]

A taste

 

[MrMetric]

that is looking very nice, Jack.... I'm curious what type of powder coat setup you are using. I know little about it, beyond that Eastwood used to sell a kit. My problem has always been the baking. I understand it takes a 400 degree oven or so, which any household will have. However, my household includes a SWMBO (she who must be obeyed). As the president, CEO and COO of the kingdom (queendom?), mere serfs have been forbidden from doing things like baking metal pieces in the oven.

 

[PhilL]

Just out of curiosity, are you planning on using tapered keys on those shafts? I would strongly encourage it. Setscrews on straight keys last about 10 minutes before they come lose. Especially on a flywheel this large. I used tapered keys and haven't had any come lose after days of running.

 

[Jack3M]

Just out of curiosity, are you planning on using tapered keys on those shafts? I would strongly encourage it. Setscrews on straight keys last about 10 minutes before they come lose. Especially on a flywheel this large. I used tapered keys and haven't had any come lose after days of running.

The tapered, read about it in the newsletter

 

[Jack3M]

that is looking very nice, Jack.... I'm curious what type of powder coat setup you are using. I know little about it, beyond that Eastwood used to sell a kit. My problem has always been the baking. I understand it takes a 400 degree oven or so, which any household will have. However, my household includes a SWMBO (she who must be obeyed). As the president, CEO and COO of the kingdom (queendom?), mere serfs have been forbidden from doing things like baking metal pieces in the oven.

Well the initial investment is the expense, unlike painting with automotive/professional stuff. (Last I bought automotive paint the color coat alone was $120) So like the gun is probably the most important. I got one of these, and got bunch more empty canisters.
https://www.powdercoatpro.com/product/redline-powder-coating-gun-demo-sale/
Then you need compressor capable of 30 PSI. For the Oven I got a toaster oven that had a timer to shut down. Biggest I could find. I forgot the name and too lazy to go back downstairs. One could also use an old oven finding on Craigslist. I will eventually get one for larger pieces, but this one is big enough for plenty of room around flywheel. Dedicate an oven to the process.
One of the best parts is cleanup is minimal, as in take a blow nozzle and blow off the residue. No solvents. Holding the part to coat can be a challenge so think that through before starting.
As far as powders are concerned, I use Prismatic Powders, for two reasons, they are close so shipping is less, and the variety of colors is amazing. Never mind, mix, match, combine, etc. This project has a solid color that looks like crap, until the transparent red goes over, and that looks great, but the clear just makes it stand out.

 

[PhilL]

So you can do multiple 'coats' Jack? It sounds like you are doing 3. I didn't know that. I thought it was base and you're done.

 

[Jack3M]

Yes you can do multiples. The first coats are 'cooked' only until wet looking +2 mins. Multiples do get extra time. Some of the colors demand a minimum of two different powders to achieve the desired/expected color. It is pretty neat.

 

[Jack3M]

Con rod and backing plate, just bolted together to not loose the small piece.

 

[Jack3M]

Worked on the 'boxing' today, what I would normally call a bushing or bearing. So solder two halves together then machine. Drilled all the holes first after getting proper outer dims. Came out pretty good. These get lacquer to keep their luster.

 

[Jack3M]

Working on crosshead. I apparently forgot to take several photos. At this point, the shoes are being turned to the inside diameter of the main body. Very show as they are held on by small 4-40 bolt and nut, so only taking 10 thou per cut.


Now starting tomorrow I can fish for salmon again, so might not get as much done. Depends on how hot it is in the afternoons after I get back from fishing.

Talking to Gary yesterday, he has 6 more sets of castings and he may or may not make more, so if you are considering, I suggest you get the kit now over later. This has been the most fun kit of any every for me, and I have done some expensive kits in my life.

 

[Jack3M]

Yes, yes, yes. Good day before the heat penetrated the shop. Lots of photos today, a trick to mate holes without being able to use locator punch. The crosshead was finished and fitted today, the inside of the body had to have the powder coat scraped off to get smooth motion.


Then got the packing gland studs placed only at this time.


Now, to get the holes from the cylinder transferred to the main body for drilling. These are through holes, nuts on the side opposite the cylinder. So. Took some cereal box cardboard and made a 'gasket' template, being sure to get the cylinder holes for the studs clearly marked and then punched out with hole punch. This was aligned on the cylinder. Then both the 'gasket' and the BODY of the engine were coated with rubber cement and allowed to glaze. Then the cylinder (which has a locating ring ) was placed up against the body causing the 'gasket' to stick to the body. The holes in the gasket were then used to locate and drill the holes.

 

[PhilL]

Looking great Jack!
For anyone else who may be building along with Jack, he PM'ed me about the piston conrod length. It isn't spcifically called out on the prints. He was my reply:
I just went through my drawings and I didn't even see the con rod. I must have calculated the length. When I was emailing with Roland, he did tell me people were making the piston 1/2" NOT 3/4" thick. Also read the newsletters. In vol3 and 5 they mention about the compression. They were all struggling to lower it. As drawn, you'll get about 60# and they were finding it ran smoothest at 40#. Hollowing the pison ends and heads, ect. to lose compression. Also, you have to pull the piston towards the rear of center about 1/4" to balance the compression. If you make the piston end threaded more than needed, it will give you the room to adjust the piston location. Just don't overdo it or you'll be pulling threads throught the packing gland. If you do the calculations, for all this, you won't come near the holes. The crank stroke will see to that.

I'll add, along with the narrower piston and I used O rings instead of steel rings. I'm pretty sure I used 2 grooves and 2 O-rings.