I stole a lathe!!!

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Hi Holt,

Most homes inthe US have single phase, 120V,and 220V single phase 60 HZ.

Getting 3 phase in from the street can be very expensive unless you can justify it for a business....though it is usually there on the pole.

Our power is distributed at a much higher voltage than this, and then stepped down with pole mount transformers at the point of use.

Dave
 
The distribution net here is of course also much higher voltage, the local distribution is 10.000V the regional distribution is 60.000V and cross contry is 150.000V, and then there is the "Backbone of Europe" running a few kilometers from me, running from Italy to Norway, where the country's can buy and sell power as needed it's 400.000V
 
steamer said:
Hi Holt,

Most homes inthe US have single phase, 120V,and 220V single phase 60 HZ.

Getting 3 phase in from the street can be very expensive unless you can justify it for a business....though it is usually there on the pole.

Our power is distributed at a much higher voltage than this, and then stepped down with pole mount transformers at the point of use.

Dave

Here in the USA you must pay for the installation cost including cables, poles, and distribution equipment. You also must pay for it before they will install it. Then you must pay the commercial rate which is much higher than residential rates. 3-Phase power is not available on all distribution lines. Typically only single phase distribution lines will be run into residential and rural areas.
 
I serious need some help! I found the guide for the halfnut to the leadscrew is broken, and i have to remove the leadscrew to get to it. I have removed the two nuts and the bush by the gearbox

DSC03020.jpg


Then i tried to remove the key, it moves, but it wont come off. I drilled and tapped a hole in the key and attacked it with the crowbar, and the winner of the battle the key!! I don't know if it is necessary to remove that key in order to remove the leadscrew, but i am kind of stuck until some clever people tells me what to do, what am i missing here?

Holt
 
Hi Holt,

I think the key is to drive the thrust collar. I "think" is should come out of the gearbox without removing it.

Have you been able to find a assembly diagram for the lathe?

From what I can see of the photo, it would appear that the lever on the front of the box engages the leadscrew. That means the collar on the inside has to come off to pull the leadscrew? from the box?

Don't use a crowbar....if it needs that much force , I would be afraid your missing something....you should get a diagram of the box first.

Dave


Dave
 
The trust at the inside, and the treaded area are one bush, and the leadscrew goes all the way through it, the two gears in the picture runs on the leadscrew.

Holt
 
Hi Holt,

I poked around looking for a manual online for that vintage lathe, and I didn't find one right away. I did find one for a more modern Triumph, but it would appear on the more modern lathe to have shear pins located at the intersection where your keyway is. There was also a retaining ring.....I would look very carefully and see if there is a retaining ring of some sort.

Dave
 
I have a download of an old manual, but it is a bit blurry, so i can't see it clearly. the shear pin is located at the exit of the headstock. i am afraid it once had an accident with the leadscrew, perhaps the key is partly sheared leaving it almost impossible to remove. It seems there is treats under the grub screw, which means the lead screw should be unscrewed from the bush, and that's only possible if the key is removed (Sorry if my explanation is a little vague, its clearly that English isn't my native language)

DSC03020-1.jpg


Sorry for the lousy hands on the pic. seems photobucket changed the edit function, and i can't figure out how to use them. much easier before
 
OK is the grub screw a double screw? Often times a grub screw is backed up by another one. You should check...

Dave
 
No it's not a double screw, now that i have fixed the small Maglite, i can see the treats in the hole,and the leadscrew rotates a little in the trust sleeve (as i learned it was named) but not more than the key allows.

Holt
 
Hi Holt,

I would look for a pin. It would be very difficult to thread a key into a blind keyway surrounded by a thread. The schematic I saw had a shear pin.....I would look very carefully.....


We're still missing something here.....


Dave
 
I got it apart!! It turned out that the grub screw didn't screw into the trust sleeve as i thought, but into a loose disc that looked like a part of the trust sleeve. Once i screwed that off, the leadscrew slided right off.
Dave, thank you very much for your help

Holt
 
Ha! knew it was something! ;D

Lot's of pictures please!
;D

Dave
 
Pictures must be on reassembling ;D The reason i had to remove the leadscrew was because the halfnut (yes there are only one) are broken it's item No. 2 on the drawing

triumphbook0032.jpg


This 3/4" pin is broken

DSC03021.jpg


It looks to be cast iron, is it okay to heat shrink (is it called that?) a new piece into that?
I was thinking of milling a 14mm hole in the remaining piece, turn a new pin 0,05mm larger than the hole, heat the halfnut on the cooktop and put the pin in the freezer before assembling.
I have done this many times before with great success, but never with cast iron. I could be afraid it would be too brittle and crack.
If anyone has experience with this, please let me know

 
I think I'd stay away from shrink fits inside that CI nut....I'd be worried about splitting it.

I would use "Loctite" 680. If you can get a new shaft nearly 1/2 to 3/4 deep in the nut, it will NEVER come out....and it will be low stress.


But first, get the rest of it out and post a picture.


Dave
 
This is what it looks like

DSC03023.jpg


It sits in the apron like this (the apron is pivoted around the feed shaft)

DSC03025.jpg


Holt
 
I have been thinking of that, but i think i will make a light fit, glue it w. loctite, and secure it with a bolt from the underside, like this

halvmtrik.jpg


Holt
 
Hi Holt,

Nice work on the lathe so far and some good puzzle solving.

Why not mill off the broken part of the shaft, drill a hole and make a complete new shaft with a smaller diameter at the end (half nut side) and lock tide that in the half nut? To be sure you could pin it or fix it with a grub screw.

Good luck and keep the pics coming!

Regards Jeroen
 
I know that pictures kind of skew depth perception, but will there be enough room to put in the capscrew? It looks like there is a threaded hole that would be right in the way.
 

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