Experimental Flash Steam and others

[Steamchick]

Ha ha! We scrapped the idea of a manufacturing base after teaching all the colonials to do that "dirty work". Then joined the European Union who Legislated against such industries as Steel making, Ship building, FARMING, FISHING, etc! But then after the country had been "*****" - they wanted to buy our stock exchange, pension companies, NHS, Government Old Age Pension, etc. And pillage those! But we saw sense and escaped the EU. That should be celebrated as the British Tea party, akin to the Boston Tea party!
Nuff of the politics.
I'll check the sizes I need and write to you directly.
Thanks,
K2

 

[modeng2000]

Steamchick, I couldn't agree with you more, freedom!!

 

[trueblueTEX]

Here are some photos of the reamers:

What I am holding in the first pic is a 1/32" reamer in a tube.

How many small "hobbyist" type reamers would go into a "set" of inch reamers? A dozen or so? 30? I am new at this and haven't bought any reamers, yet but I'm about to embark on building some small steam engines.

How much would that mythical "hobbyist set" cost?
Thanks
Tex

 

[Richard Hed]

How many small "hobbyist" type reamers would go into a "set" of inch reamers? A dozen or so? 30? I am new at this and haven't bought any reamers, yet but I'm about to embark on building some small steam engines.

How much would that mythical "hobbyist set" cost?
Thanks
Tex

You can get as many as you like however I have about 4-500 lbs of them. I want to get them out of the way and I want to at least break even on what they cost me. if you find the price on Shars for what you want, we can agree on a reasonable price which I expect will be less than Shars price. However, I have some that are very high quality that will go for a higher price.

If you are just starting out, let me advise you. You said you are in the hobbyist set. If you are doing carburetors, you probably need a couple very small. I have 1/32 and even smaller--so small in fact that they are barely visible. You undoubtedly will need 1/8th, 3/16ths, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8th and then by 1/8 up to at least 3/4. If you will use a reamer on small cylinders, you might need 7/8th and 1". Not sure if I have any that large. When you make your calculations, don't forget shipping.

Usually, one needs several reamers they use quite often and then occasionally need another. But a nice set means you don't need to buy so often.

 

[Zeb]

How many small "hobbyist" type reamers would go into a "set" of inch reamers? A dozen or so? 30? I am new at this and haven't bought any reamers, yet but I'm about to embark on building some small steam engines.

How much would that mythical "hobbyist set" cost?
Thanks
Tex

If I want sliding contact surfaces, my go-to set is the over-under reamer set (wish I had one). For any slip fits using standard hardware and measurements, they work great. A 1/4" bolt shank will fit nicely in a reamed hole from a Ø.256 over reamer. Interference fit can be made with a Ø.249. Bumping the speed up without burning up your HSS will get Ø.250.

 

[Richard Hed]

has anyone drawn or built the "Unusual Steam Engine" by Robert S. Hedin in "Steam and Stirling engines you can build" edited by William c. Fitt? I am having trouble understanding how part 11 is built (or is drawn). It has a circular feature on the drawing, however, since there is no perspective, it is difficult to see what that feature is or why it is necessary. There are two of them, bearings for the crank. The only thing I can thimpfk of is that it is a recess for a roller bearing. However, I cannot find a reference to any roller bearings.

 

[Richard Hed]

I have just had my first experience with a 4-1/2" Bronze round. I am cutting a half inch piece to make a gear. I tried cutting it with a bandsaw--it cut about 3/8" and then basically would cut no more. So I thot I would cut it partially with a cutoff blade in the lathe. Well, that cut about 1/4" then snapped the round out of the chuck! So I put it back in and put the tail stock up to hold it. Well, it simply started spinning in the chuck! I was surprized it didn't break the cut off blade.

So, I learned that bronze is very difficult to machine. My first firsthand experience with the stuff. I lookt up the specs on this particular bronze 932 SAE 660 and it is supposed to have about 70% machinability. -- I don't thimpfk so. 50% or maybe even less. So, I'm thimpfking that if I use a bandsaw blade with fewer teeth, that is larger teeth, mine has teeth about 18-24 / inch, maybe 14 / inch or even 12, this might cut better. Does anyone have a way to cut this?

What a surprize to cut something for the first time and find it will not cut!

 

[ajoeiam]

I have just had my first experience with a 4-1/2" Bronze round. I am cutting a half inch piece to make a gear. I tried cutting it with a bandsaw--it cut about 3/8" and then basically would cut no more. So I thot I would cut it partially with a cutoff blade in the lathe. Well, that cut about 1/4" then snapped the round out of the chuck! So I put it back in and put the tail stock up to hold it. Well, it simply started spinning in the chuck! I was surprized it didn't break the cut off blade.

So, I learned that bronze is very difficult to machine. My first firsthand experience with the stuff. I lookt up the specs on this particular bronze 932 SAE 660 and it is supposed to have about 70% machinability. -- I don't thimpfk so. 50% or maybe even less. So, I'm thimpfking that if I use a bandsaw blade with fewer teeth, that is larger teeth, mine has teeth about 18-24 / inch, maybe 14 / inch or even 12, this might cut better. Does anyone have a way to cut this?

What a surprize to cut something for the first time and find it will not cut!

LOL
With a 4-1/2" round you could use a 2/3 tooth blade.
Your bandsaw stopped cutting because you have too high a down pressure and too many teeth and so there is too much material packing in the teeth which jams up the blade so it won't cut anymore.
If you're finding this hard to cut then you don't want to try aluminum bronze.
I love machining that stuff but you need some oompf and likely more juice than a 10" spin lathe has available.
Have used a lot of this stuff to make bearings - - - you know 5 years of a shaft turning 24/7 and then its time for a rebuild.
Dunno if a 6/8 blade is going to be coarse enough but if you keep you down pressure low and with lots of coolant on the blade and your speed moderate
you should be able to cut it.

(17-4ph stainless - - - now that's tough stuff to cut - - - ! Your 18/24 blade is great at thin section stuff - - - like 1/4" but really isn't at all appropriate for
thick material.)


https://onlinesupply.ca/image/data/blog-images/bi-metal-speed.jpg

https://www.starrett.com/docs/other-downloadable-resources/band-saw-blade-reference-guide
(a pretty good reference)

 

[Richard Hed]

LOL
With a 4-1/2" round you could use a 2/3 tooth blade.
Your bandsaw stopped cutting because you have too high a down pressure and too many teeth and so there is too much material packing in the teeth which jams up the blade so it won't cut anymore.
If you're finding this hard to cut then you don't want to try aluminum bronze.
I love machining that stuff but you need some oompf and likely more juice than a 10" spin lathe has available.
Have used a lot of this stuff to make bearings - - - you know 5 years of a shaft turning 24/7 and then its time for a rebuild.
Dunno if a 6/8 blade is going to be coarse enough but if you keep you down pressure low and with lots of coolant on the blade and your speed moderate
you should be able to cut it.

(17-4ph stainless - - - now that's tough stuff to cut - - - ! Your 18/24 blade is great at thin section stuff - - - like 1/4" but really isn't at all appropriate for
thick material.)


https://onlinesupply.ca/image/data/blog-images/bi-metal-speed.jpg

https://www.starrett.com/docs/other-downloadable-resources/band-saw-blade-reference-guide
(a pretty good reference)


View attachment 137507

Yes, I thot that the teeth were too small and packing up. The piece has a 1-1/2" hole in the middle so that helps. Will try to find a blade with 6-8 tpi.

thanx.

 

[Steamchick]

I recently had a similar experience with "unknown grade" Brass! Just "as hard as silver steel", it didn't want to drill, part-off, or cut a thread. My friend (???), who let me have a piece, said he didn't know what it was apart from looking like brass, bought as brass, and kept in his brass store. Maybe it is hardened? I feel I should keep it for some special purpose, but have not thought of that purpose yet?
Richard, I have cut Aluminium bronze (small pieces, 1" ~1 1/2") with a fine toothed hack-saw, but needs a new blade. As soon as the teeth "dull" they simple fail to bite so just rub to generate heat.... I use expensive hard-toothed and soft backed blades. Cheap hacksaw blades simply "don't cut-it" for me.
Generally, harder materials are best cut with a cut-off grind-stone. Simple carborundum for hard steels, but sacrificial stones (like for concrete and stone) seem better for "softer" alloy materials to avoid clogging? I buy 5" discs at 1mm thick for my angle grinder, in a cut-off jig.
I am currently having fun turning some annealed copper.... the tool has to be super sharp, high enough speed and fine cut and feed, but not too fine! As soon as I hear squeal/chatter I must stop as the grip has worked loose... It may become a hand-job?
K2

 

[Richard Hed]

I recently had a similar experience with "unknown grade" Brass! Just "as hard as silver steel", it didn't want to drill, part-off, or cut a thread. My friend (???), who let me have a piece, said he didn't know what it was apart from looking like brass, bought as brass, and kept in his brass store. Maybe it is hardened? I feel I should keep it for some special purpose, but have not thought of that purpose yet?
Richard, I have cut Aluminium bronze (small pieces, 1" ~1 1/2") with a fine toothed hack-saw, but needs a new blade. As soon as the teeth "dull" they simple fail to bite so just rub to generate heat.... I use expensive hard-toothed and soft backed blades. Cheap hacksaw blades simply "don't cut-it" for me.
Generally, harder materials are best cut with a cut-off grind-stone. Simple carborundum for hard steels, but sacrificial stones (like for concrete and stone) seem better for "softer" alloy materials to avoid clogging? I buy 5" discs at 1mm thick for my angle grinder, in a cut-off jig.
I am currently having fun turning some annealed copper.... the tool has to be super sharp, high enough speed and fine cut and feed, but not too fine! As soon as I hear squeal/chatter I must stop as the grip has worked loose... It may become a hand-job?
K2

I never thot about a cutoff tool. Seems to me that it would not work, too much clogging?

 

[william_b_noble]

I never thot about a cutoff tool. Seems to me that it would not work, too much clogging?

Rule of thumb for bandsaw, 3 tooth contact min, so coarser blade. Parting tool will work. You may need to back out and move .010 in. to gain clearance. Use cutting oil, proper speed , e.g. slow, and tool on center. Tool must be sharp. If it is not cutting, it's above center or dull

 

[Zeb]

It work hardens too if polishing and not cutting. Any time I work with those sticky, gluey metals on large Ø I google-fu.

 

[Richard Hed]

It work hardens too if polishing and not cutting. Any time I work with those sticky, gluey metals on large Ø I google-fu.

what's google-fu?

 

[mcostello]

Skill at using Google to search for information. Example- His Google-Fu is strong.

 

[william_b_noble]

I must admit to breaking my share of parting tools but usually when I'm trying to cut with an ovrhang of around 2.5 to 3 inches on the tool, so a diameter of 5 to 6 (or more) inches, and always because of binding casused by the tool getting dull, or getting above center due to the 7 deg angle of the holder that I forget to lower as I extend the tool. When I do things right I can part off a 5 inch SS part just fine though I tend to panic at the last 1/4 inch where binding is much more likely. I often "cheat" for that last little bit and use a hack saw, then clean up after it is parted.

 

[ajoeiam]

I must admit to breaking my share of parting tools but usually when I'm trying to cut with an ovrhang of around 2.5 to 3 inches on the tool, so a diameter of 5 to 6 (or more) inches, and always because of binding casused by the tool getting dull, or getting above center due to the 7 deg angle of the holder that I forget to lower as I extend the tool. When I do things right I can part off a 5 inch SS part just fine though I tend to panic at the last 1/4 inch where binding is much more likely. I often "cheat" for that last little bit and use a hack saw, then clean up after it is parted.

Hmm - - - and how is that 'cheating'?

I'd call it prudence!

 

[Richard Hed]

I've been doing other things for a while. as soon as I can get a bandsaw blade with less TPI, I'm gonna try that. I thimpfks that it may have work hardened

 

[Steamchick]

Hi William, When Parting (as with most tool settings) I find excess chatter spoils the job after I extend the tool more than twice the depth of the blade/holder. But I am using a smaller lathe, tools and workpieces. As my parting tools are 2mm wide x 12 mm deep, I am really limited to a depth of cut of about 24mm. - or nearly an inch - before the singing-tool gets painful, and I feel in danger if the chatter digging-in and breaking something?
So when taking a slice off a 4" diameter aluminium billet, I have to use the hacksaw for the last 2" or so. So don't be shy when you have to do the same task on your "huge" lumps of stainless! I also find the tailstock with a rotating centre as a steady, or large, flat ended "dead-end", helps to stabilise the job for the last cut and helps prevent the cut-off part leaping to some obscure corner of the workshop, never to be seen again...

A "happy 4th" to all our USA friends. We British will one day present the tax bill for all the unpaid taxes to the Crown since you declared "independence", but until then, "enjoy the party"!
K2

 

[Bentwings]

I must admit to breaking my share of parting tools but usually when I'm trying to cut with an ovrhang of around 2.5 to 3 inches on the tool, so a diameter of 5 to 6 (or more) inches, and always because of binding casused by the tool getting dull, or getting above center due to the 7 deg angle of the holder that I forget to lower as I extend the tool. When I do things right I can part off a 5 inch SS part just fine though I tend to panic at the last 1/4 inch where binding is much more likely. I often "cheat" for that last little bit and use a hack saw, then clean up after it is parted.

our local welding supply has a white stick material that is sold as saw dressing , turns out that it is a great non stick non loading thing for cut off wheels if you use some on the edge of a cut off wheel you can slice aluminum or other soft metals. I’ve also heard but not tried that plain hand bar soap works the same way there used to be a soap stone years ago that we used the same way .

We have found some cut off wheels that really do cut aluminum . We got these at fasten all but it’s hard to find in their system . Along with this are flap wheels that work on aluminum without loading up. They have a white coloring like they have been coated however they do get after aluminum . We try not I mix metals with the wheels. It doesn’t work too well to TIG weld aluminum that has been sanded or ground with a wheel used on steel.

Byron