Experimental Flash Steam and others

[Steamchick]

Hi Richard, Sold as Molyslip in the UK - since I was a lad... - I have a tube (50 years old), and as CV joint grease... (I have a tin). But Walmart will have it at your end of the world, or 3&@y.. or double duck, or whatever you use. But the Molybdenum is the anti-scuffing part that makes if seriously black - and makes it work.
The Molyslip was always smeared - very thinly - ont pistons, cams, and othe sliding surfaces (plain bearings), etc. during engine builds and washed off into the oil (to make it black) and resist scuffing on initial start-up. Actually, the Moly particles are supposed to embed themselves into the surface cavities (at sub-microscopic level) to give a more durable surface ... Modern diesel pistons and high performance petrol pistons have it on the skirts - applied in a post machining process - as anti-scuffing compound, that only lasts (visibly) for hundreds of miles, yet the effect doubles the life of piston skirts etc. for wear...
Funny, but I was taught by mechanics who learned of the efficacy of Molybdenum during WW2 (possibly those Yanks brought it over us us Brits?), but us "young uns" generally don't know about it. (I feel like the exception when I explain it to everyone!). I recall discussing it with a Doctor of tribology (from Japan) who was discussing skirt scuffing and piston skirt design for reduced friction with the Hepworth and Grandage piston manufacturing Design Engineers. I asked why the pistons could not be factory coated with Moly grease to prevent scuffing at initial start-up - 2 years later it was happening - as a few microns of Moly pre-coat on the skirts of higher performance pistons! - Expensive, so only on the higher performance jobs (that need it) where the customer is paying that bit extra anyway! - Now it is a cheaper process and more widely applied...
Cheers!
K2

 

[Richard Hed]

Hi Richard, Sold as Molyslip in the UK - since I was a lad... - I have a tube (50 years old), and as CV joint grease... (I have a tin). But Walmart will have it at your end of the world, or 3&@y.. or double duck, or whatever you use. But the Molybdenum is the anti-scuffing part that makes if seriously black - and makes it work.
The Molyslip was always smeared - very thinly - ont pistons, cams, and othe sliding surfaces (plain bearings), etc. during engine builds and washed off into the oil (to make it black) and resist scuffing on initial start-up. Actually, the Moly particles are supposed to embed themselves into the surface cavities (at sub-microscopic level) to give a more durable surface ... Modern diesel pistons and high performance petrol pistons have it on the skirts - applied in a post machining process - as anti-scuffing compound, that only lasts (visibly) for hundreds of miles, yet the effect doubles the life of piston skirts etc. for wear...
Funny, but I was taught by mechanics who learned of the efficacy of Molybdenum during WW2 (possibly those Yanks brought it over us us Brits?), but us "young uns" generally don't know about it. (I feel like the exception when I explain it to everyone!). I recall discussing it with a Doctor of tribology (from Japan) who was discussing skirt scuffing and piston skirt design for reduced friction with the Hepworth and Grandage piston manufacturing Design Engineers. I asked why the pistons could not be factory coated with Moly grease to prevent scuffing at initial start-up - 2 years later it was happening - as a few microns of Moly pre-coat on the skirts of higher performance pistons! - Expensive, so only on the higher performance jobs (that need it) where the customer is paying that bit extra anyway! - Now it is a cheaper process and more widely applied...
Cheers!
K2

I've heard of it. I never knew it's properties. I get some when wallyworld opens. It's only 3:00AM here, now.

 

[Zeb]

I tird third that.
We used Lubriplate (moly grease) of various thicknesses for turbine starter generator splines, and driveshafts/power trains of various Bell helis. The stuff is pretty gnarly though (as in, thick black and doesn't come off your clothes).

Par-al-ketone is top dog extreme for anything exposed. That's for if your garage is sprayed daily with saltwater (Your area is nice and dry though).

We had this amazing (cleaner) grease for critical areas that I no longer remember the name of, but SuperLube is very similar. The FDA says you can eat it, even though it's packed with Teflon.
https://www.sherline.com/product/7550-super-lube-multi-purpose-synthetic-grease/
I slather this stuff all over the exposed surfaces on the Sherlines after every machining run on the kitchen island. I can go straight to dinner without warshing my hands!

 

[Richard Hed]

I tird third that.
We used Lubriplate (moly grease) of various thicknesses for turbine starter generator splines, and driveshafts/power trains of various Bell helis. The stuff is pretty gnarly though (as in, thick black and doesn't come off your clothes).

Par-al-ketone is top dog extreme for anything exposed. That's for if your garage is sprayed daily with saltwater (Your area is nice and dry though).

We had this amazing (cleaner) grease for critical areas that I no longer remember the name of, but SuperLube is very similar. The FDA says you can eat it, even though it's packed with Teflon.
https://www.sherline.com/product/7550-super-lube-multi-purpose-synthetic-grease/
I slather this stuff all over the exposed surfaces on the Sherlines after every machining run on the kitchen island. I can go straight to dinner without warshing my hands!

OK, the stuff I have is indeed moly black. This is what was recommended for the change gears on my lathe. I'll use it, i feel it is safe, protective and will not turn to varnish in a few years. As most of us know, one rarely changes the position of the mill arm. I'm sure there are some peeps who change it often because of whatever they are making but most of us, not.

thanx Ken and Zeb

 

[Zeb]

Yeh, once I get one trammed I set and forget.

 

[Richard Hed]

Yeh, once I get one trammed I set and forget.

I did have a purpose for moving one once, but I have completely forgotten what that was. One of the things we should keep in mind, however, is that if you have something really big that will not fit on the table, the head can be swung around to, say, another table on which you can place an object. For instance, if you needed to bore a cylinder that would not fit on the table, you could set it up on something else to hold it, swing the head round to meet it. Doesn't sound like a lot of fun, but it has been done by others

Also, some thing that might fit on the table but overhangs the edge too much, you can simply run the arm out and do some work there. I've seen that on utub.

 

[Steamchick]

Hi Richard, I am one of those "odd" owners of a Mill-drill with round column (like a regular pedestal drill) where the head can be raised, lowered, or rotated. It is tucked in the conrner of the bench (the only way it will fit) and to change belts, I need to lower the head to make room for the cover to hinge open, then raise the head again to get a vice, chuck and tools at a correct height to use the stroke of the quill. A 6" long drill or reamer, needs the head height changing after I change from a 2 1/2" long small milling cutter... Very versatile, NOT a high volume machining tool, as all the changes take time. But for "retirement odd jobs" it is very practical. As every toolmaker will teach you, it is not the cutting that makes a good job, it is the setting of the machine and tools. - But you live that motto anyway!
K2

 

[Steamchick]

Hi Zeb,
I guess the FDA have not tasted the silicon grease loaded with PTFE. I guess the silicon grease coats the inside of the gut to prevent moisture crossing through membranes, (is that healthy?) while the "solid" PTFE particles - being inert in the human body? - have yet to be identified as a cause for cancer... (Unlike other molecular stuff like carbon...) - or get ejected with the other toxic waste.... Everything is safe in small enough quantities (even radioactivity - for medicinal purposes...) but eat a pound of the stuff and you may find how nasty some things can be! (drink 5 pints of water and you'll get the trots!).
Enjoiy the "grease"!
K2

 

[Richard Hed]

I did have a purpose for moving one once, but I have completely forgotten what that was. One of the things we should keep in mind, however, is that if you have something really big that will not fit on the table, the head can be swung around to, say, another table on which you can place an object. For instance, if you needed to bore a cylinder that would not fit on the table, you could set it up on something else to hold it, swing the head round to meet it. Doesn't sound like a lot of fun, but it has been done by others

Hi Richard, I am one of those "odd" owners of a Mill-drill with round column (like a regular pedestal drill) where the head can be raised, lowered, or rotated. It is tucked in the conrner of the bench (the only way it will fit) and to change belts, I need to lower the head to make room for the cover to hinge open, then raise the head again to get a vice, chuck and tools at a correct height to use the stroke of the quill. A 6" long drill or reamer, needs the head height changing after I change from a 2 1/2" long small milling cutter... Very versatile, NOT a high volume machining tool, as all the changes take time. But for "retirement odd jobs" it is very practical. As every toolmaker will teach you, it is not the cutting that makes a good job, it is the setting of the machine and tools. - But you live that motto anyway!
K2

Yes, we all realize you are "odd"

 

[Steamchick]

Thanks Richard! - I take that as a compliment.
I call it "being individual"... (others may say "self-opinionated", which means I have my own opinion of myself....
K2

 

[Richard Hed]

Yes, we all realize you are "odd"

Thanks Richard! - I take that as a compliment.
I call it "being individual"... (others may say "self-opinionated", which means I have my own opinion of myself....
K2

Of course.

 

[Richard Carlstedt]

Hi Richard, Sold as Molyslip in the UK - since I was a lad... - I have a tube (50 years old), and as CV joint grease... (I have a tin). But Walmart will have it at your end of the world, or 3&@y.. or double duck, or whatever you use. But the Molybdenum is the anti-scuffing part that makes if seriously black - and makes it work.
The Molyslip was always smeared - very thinly - ont pistons, cams, and othe sliding surfaces (plain bearings), etc. during engine builds and washed off into the oil (to make it black) and resist scuffing on initial start-up. Actually, the Moly particles are supposed to embed themselves into the surface cavities (at sub-microscopic level) to give a more durable surface ... Modern diesel pistons and high performance petrol pistons have it on the skirts - applied in a post machining process - as anti-scuffing compound, that only lasts (visibly) for hundreds of miles, yet the effect doubles the life of piston skirts etc. for wear...
.............................................................................................
Cheers!
K2

Steamchick nailed it , and it matches my training and experience with Moly.
It impregnates itself in the
surfaces of metal and forms sort of a plating with low friction. It is VERY important that it be applied to an absolute clean surface with out any other lube present . it you have oil on the surface, that "lube" will or may prevent the Moly to adhere . We applied it to our machinery in places that were extremely difficult to lube. When we machined parts and applied the Moly soak, we got 3 x the life a non Moly part got. If a part is pre-oiled , thoroughly wash it in MEK or Lacquer Thinner and then coat it with Moly and use it . then later use regular oil for lube as the metal will be microscopically plated.
When rebuilding high speed Punch Presses with journals of 7 to 11 inches in diameter, we sprinkled Moly powder on the new bronze bearings and the journal and added a small bit of oil for run in .
Overhaul spans doubled . and we used heavy oil for subsequent lubes.
There is a downside you need to know. It is great for initial lubrication, but it hardens or solidifies over time and grease lines /ports will plug . so once the parts are run in- use regular oil/grease. You can add a bit of Moly as long as it isn't the only lube .
Rich

 

[Steamchick]

Thanks Rich. Your hard experience has taught me how to use it properly. I had applied it where surfaces could contact (if dry) when rebuilding motorcycle engines - as taught by my Dad when I was 16. Engines were filled with oil after assembly, so I have been doing the right thing all the time!
Also more recently, my Moto Guzzi manual instructs filling the transmission and final drive with appropriate gear oils that are loaded with Moly... but they are supplied by the Unobtainium oil company. So I have to use regular E gear oil plus Molygear box additive, dissolved in some of the EP oil. (Instructions on the Moly gear additive cartridge). I guess it gets embedded in the metal surfaces during the rolling gear tooth contact where the Extreme Pressure is achieved?...
K2

 

[Tug40]

Please forgive me Steamchick, but if you ride a Moto Guzzi you will always be considered “odd”.
Ask me how I know. I rode a Moto Guzzi V11 LeMans for years. Just checked, i still have a quart of Red Line synth 80wt trans oil with shockproof for it.

 

[Steamchick]

Hi Tug, I forgive you. Odd is not wrong, just indivisible by 2. Like the timing of a V-twin! I do not think of Guzzis as odd, just "Engineered". There are other marks that may be considered "Odd". MZ for their trailing link front forks, or BMW similarly, but actually these were very clever Engineering solutions to improved accuracy of suspension, compared to girder forks... etc. Consider how odd it would be to take a computer with a keyboard, and throw away the keyboard? That is what we have done with mobile devices, tablets, and laptops.... so why type? Move on to voice control. Progress comes from sound Engineering plus meeting popular demand. Often popular demand often forces cost reductions to cheaper - not so good - options, which is how the telescopic fork superceded other linkage suspensions, and while early versions may have been inadequate, later versions (after a bit of Engineering) are better than ever. So "odd" is probably simply a step in evolution? And most people writing to this site record various steps in mechanical and engine evolution.... so, as Guzziologists, we fit in well. I.E. not odd in this group!
Good to meet you!
K2

 

[Richard Hed]

Ladies, Scholars and Model Machinists:
I have a bundle of reamers that I recently acquired for sale. I tried to find the forum place that has sales but couldn't find it. So reamers (including a few that are .015"). There are brand new ones, very sharp and never used. There are sharp ones but used. Some are a bit rusty but still good. A few are total rust and need re-ground--these, I would sell by the pound--just remember there are not a lot. The largest size is around 5/8ths. There might be a few larger ones.

If someone wishes to se photos, I can do that.

There are many different kinds including spirals. The ones with wax, I will assume are the size they claim, I don't want to remove wax to measure them. I would advise that only persons in the USA (or maybe Canada) get them due to the postage. USPS has a package that is one price for various sized boxes. I would like to sell them in lots no less than 10 at a time. When HMEM members are done buying what they want, I will sell them on ebay.

My eddress is [email protected] . If interested write me a note.

 

[Richard Hed]

Here are some photos of the reamers:

What I am holding in the first pic is a 1/32" reamer in a tube.

 

[Richard Hed]

Ah, I was looking thru my hoard and found some more reamers. they are extremelly sharp and new and shiny and even a few that are larger, however, I most likely will keep those larger ones to add to my permanent collection unless there are doubles.

 

[Steamchick]

Hi Richard, Here is my "Regular" supplier of reamers in the UK.
REAMERS (IMP) (tracytools.com) - I.E. Typically £10 each.
Each order needs about £1 in postage, so that's not a lot.
But if your reamers and postage are able to be posted across the wide blue ocean at a sensible cost, then I have about 3 or 4 sizes "missing" from my collection (Under 1/4").
You mentioned: "USPS has a package that is one price for various sized boxes. ":
What do the postage costs look like for a small package of 3 or 4 sub- 1/4" reamers? - If it is worth your bother sending them away... (Often the combined customs and postage costs from N. America outweigh the total cost of European supplied parts to UK!).
If it looks sensible, I'll write directly with my needs.
Cheers!
Ken

 

[Richard Hed]

Hi Richard, Here is my "Regular" supplier of reamers in the UK.
REAMERS (IMP) (tracytools.com) - I.E. Typically £10 each.
Each order needs about £1 in postage, so that's not a lot.
But if your reamers and postage are able to be posted across the wide blue ocean at a sensible cost, then I have about 3 or 4 sizes "missing" from my collection (Under 1/4").
You mentioned: "USPS has a package that is one price for various sized boxes. ":
What do the postage costs look like for a small package of 3 or 4 sub- 1/4" reamers? - If it is worth your bother sending them away... (Often the combined customs and postage costs from N. America outweigh the total cost of European supplied parts to UK!).
If it looks sensible, I'll write directly with my needs.
Cheers!
Ken

I'll check it out for you. I suspect it will be too costly to send to Britain that's why I mentioned it would probably be best for Norte Americanos. Yes, I have small reamers. I suspect all the small ones to be imperial sizes. I know there are some metric, however, too, but probably all a bit larger.

I have no idea at all about customs costs. All I know on that is that Elizabeth Rex I leagalized smuggling and the economy of Britain skyrocketed. A country may need customs to help run the country, but more often it is really used to stop other countries goods from entering in order for the country to build it's own manufacturing base.