Joe, thanks! Redundancy is welcome. And, I do the same on your thread all the time, buddy. After
all, with a build like yours, how many different ways can a guy say "wow"?..
Bill, I appreciate you taking the time! One of the things that got me interested in this one
was the two-pistons-in-the-same-bore situation. That, and I've decided I really like Howell's stuff.
I'm likin' that Lindsey stuff, too.
Hi all;
Some fixing, and some making, today.
Doing some assembly work before getting started on the fire box, I couldn't figure out what the heck was
going on with this thing. I measured and re-measured everything trying to determine why things didn't fit.
Obviously, when the displacer is all the way down at the bottom of its stroke, it isn't going to fit inside
the hot cap. Well, it's supposed to!
Finally, I realized I'd measured the rod here from the top of the small cylinder that sticks out of the
displacer can. So, I drilled a new hole and cut off the excess, and tried it again.
Nope. The displacer didn't want to push off the hot cap any longer, but now the power piston and
displacer can hit each other as they go up and down in the bore.
Onto screw-up no. 2...
After looking at the same thing
over and over on the prints, I see it. This thing is supposed to
go inside the can, and then measure from the top of the piece to locate the hole. I got that thing
out of the can, and of course, it had been put in with Loctite. Of course, when I put it back in the
right way 'round, the rod was too short. 'Cause I'd cut it off!!
So, make another rod.
Good grief.. No one will have to guess about it now. Proof I'm a goof.
Well, now things go round and round without pushing the hot cap off the bottom, or jamming
pistons in the middle. That's something!
I decided I liked the slimmer looking five spoke wheels, so faced them to the width I liked, then
drilled and tapped the hubs for set screws. Used lead shot in the holes so the set screws don't
scar up the crank shafts, making theses hard to get on and off. I've mentioned that before on
another build, but it's worth saying again. It will save someone a lot of trouble.
Finally making a start on the fire box, which also serves as a base for the main upper assembly.
This is the top most piece, where the cylinder will mount. Just a square of 1/8" CRS, drilled
and tapped for the mounting screws, and bored out in the middle so the hot cap can go through.
The boring head is one I made in the shop. I mention that because, yeah, I really enjoy making
my own shop tools, but I'd also like to recognize a nice fellow we have here on the forum. He's rather
quiet, so I'll toot his horn for him. He goes by "walnotr" here, and his name is Steve Campbell. He's
the fellow who designed and drew the prints for that boring head. He's also nice enough to offer
the prints at no charge. This is a perfect sized boring head for the Taig milling machine, and would
be good for Sherline and other smaller brands. I've used it for long enough now to know it's a very
good and sturdy design. I've said it before, Steve, but thanks again.
I have a link to the prints for the boring head for anyone who would like them.
Also cut out the ceramic fiber heat gaskets for the lower end of the engine.
That's it for today. Chasing after myself, fixing my own mistakes. It's better
than fixing someone else's. At least I know who to blame.
As always, thanks much for having a look.
Dean
