D1-4 camlock pin removal

[petertha]

I got thinking about temporarily removing the D1-4 pins in my chuck or faceplate in order to transfer from the lathe over to the mill or rotary table. Are there any issues to be aware of? Should I number the pins & put them back in the same position, or not really that critical? My understanding is the chuck centering is a function of the taper fit recess & the pins are there mostly to pull it onto the taper keep it put under torque. Sound about right?

 

[Blogwitch]

Peter,

Just measure the height that they are set at from the back of the chuck, and put them back to the same height.

No worries if you get it wrong, either you won't have enough turn on your chuck locking key to be within the safe lines or you will just go totally slack. Adjust pin length to cure.


John

 

[steamer]

A D1-4 mount , mounts on the taper AND the vertical face. The pins draw the chuck down the taper as it is sized to be a interferance fit on the taper.

Now the pins are held on in a floating way. There should be a witness line on the pins that coincides with the back of the backing plate

I am told that some CAN require selective assembly to get them to work, so I would mark them before you take them out.

Your mileage may vary! :-\

Dave

 

[websterz]

To quote Foghorn Leghorn:

"I always keep my feathers numbered for just such an emergency."

Numbering camlock pins and chuck jaw slots takes so little effort there's no reason NOT to do it. I was taught to mark the chuck when I had found the best, most accurate arrangement for the jaws. It just adds one more layer of repeatability. I can only surmise that the camlock pins could benefit from it as well. Heck, it can't HURT unless you use a 12 lb sledgehammer to stamp them! :big:

 

[moconnor]

websterz,

To quote Foghorn Leghorn:

"I always keep my feathers numbered for just such an emergency."

LOL (coffee coming out of my nose). That was a classic cartoon.

peterha,

Follow all advice given. Measure the height of the cams and mark them. This will save a bunch of trial and error (and time). Also, each chuck will have a 'best' location as far as T.I.R. and once determined, it should be marked and replaced in the same position each time for best results.

Regards,
Mike

 

[rake60]

I have never found the pin locations or height measurements to be critical
when fitting a D mount lathe chuck to a lathe. The pin heights may vary.
It's the location of the scallop in those pins that the locking cam engage
that matters.

I start with locking cam set to the open position.
After tightening the the locking screw the face that was flat at the open
position should be somewhere between 90 and 180 degrees from it's open
position when tight.

If it is less than 90 degrees, turn that pin out one revolution and re-lock it.
If it is more than 180 degrees, turn the pin in one revolution and re-lock it.

It may take a few adjustments to get it right but it isn't a complicated process.

Rick