Corliss Steam Engine (Coles Power Models)

[Richard Hed]

Now I'm starting the steam inlet valve, the plans for which are ataached.View attachment 152462View attachment 152463View attachment 152464View attachment 152465 It is a secondary part which is not involved in the good functioning of the engine. However, and given my somewhat perfectionist side, I will do everything I can to create the piece as faithfully as possible. I will post the progress step by step.
I start with a solid 30mm stainless steel bar. I took it in a chuck with 4 independent jaws, first to have perfect centering, then because the jaws are longer than on a standard 3 jaw. I first made two cuts corresponding to the lower part of the roundings. The spherical part was used very well in 4 steps and as many changes in tool position. But the connections are very well.
LeZap

My piece of metal is oversized by about 1/4" so I put it in a 3 jaw with a live end. I have the piece sticking out long enough to make TWO pieces as I need two. As I said before, I thimpfk this is really a poor design for this input steam valve, however, I, like yourself, want to make it to the specs of the machine. I don't make all my pieces to the exact specs but most of them.

I'll try to take a couple photos later.

 

[ZAPJACK]

I, like yourself, want to make it to the specs of the machine.

Hi Richard,
I agree your point of view, but in my case, it's a challenge
I try, as possible, to be close to the original spirit of the drawings.
LZ

 

[ZAPJACK]

No so much comments. LZ

 

[Richard Hed]

No so much comments. LZ
View attachment 152475View attachment 152476View attachment 152477

When I get to this section, I will use the 4 jaw, centering it, keeping it centered while cutting the holes thru those flats, and getting the threads cut before removing from the 4 jaw, then turn it over to the other side for a repeat operation, getting all the centering as close as my ability and equipment can do.

also, the front and back interface and guide flange will be completed in place, that is, the guide flange, after being completed up to the center hole (flange guide) will be screwed in and completed by drilling in place, then the interface will be done similarly., all without removing the body.

 

[ZAPJACK]

Hi Richard,
at the moment I have not removed the part from the 4 jaw chuck
LZ

 

[ZAPJACK]

Best Wishes for 2024, and good luck to all!
Now I reamed the center to 9mm. this is for a centering pin, for later.
Dismantling the chuck + returning to the lathe to bore the lower part and c

ut off.
Now, I glued the body into an aluminum tube to straighten + ream the upper part.
LeZap

 

[ajoeiam]

Best Wishes for 2024, and good luck to all!
Now I reamed the center to 9mm. this is for a centering pin, for later.
Dismantling the chuck + returning to the lathe to bore the lower part and cView attachment 152693View attachment 152694View attachment 152695View attachment 152696ut off.
Now, I glued the body into an aluminum tube to straighten + ream the upper part.
LeZap

Nice - - - like very nice!

What make of boring head are you using- - please?

TIA

 

[ZAPJACK]

What make of boring head are you using- - please?

KAISER swiss made

 

[Richard Hed]

KAISER swiss made

I need to make one or two of them. One for the mill, one for the lathe. Soon, I am going to learn to make tapers for the live end and the tail stock

 

[ZAPJACK]

Now, machining two machine jig in M19 x 70.
One of the caps is cut from the same stainless steel. But threading in this material is really painful and the finish.....boff...
To have as perfect an alignment as possible, here is the machining sequence I will follow.
First machine parts 160 and 162 with 1mm of excès remaining in the center.
Machining the left thread into the valve body (158) then fit the first cap and pivot the part over.
Machining the right thread, assemble everything then drill all the pieces in perfect alignment.
Finish with the valve cone. That’s it! LeZap

 

[ajoeiam]

KAISER swiss made

thanks

 

[ZAPJACK]

I'm not particularly happy with the thread, but they do the job. The drill bit is 1.6.
But, it's made from Stainless steel 304, and not very easy for machining
LZ

 

[Richard Hed]

I'm not particularly happy with the thread, but they do the job. The drill bit is 1.6.
But, it's made from Stainless steel 304, and not very easy for machining
LZ
View attachment 152784View attachment 152785View attachment 152786

Yes, this is a tough project--cutting non-standard threads in a difficult material with not enough depth to easily cut enough threads to hold, and worst of all, nothing to hold onto the part to cut the last thread.

 

[ZAPJACK]

The centering went well, I was within 0,02-0,03 mm
The first picture is the machining of the valve seat. 60°
In the end, everything fits together without forcing or hard points.
All that remains is the wheel to be machined. L.Z.

 

[timo_gross]

I'm not particularly happy with the thread, but they do the job. The drill bit is 1.6.
But, it's made from Stainless steel 304, and not very easy for machining
LZ

Did you try thread milling? Maybe useful for future similar parts. Stefan Gotteswinter posted a video "Threadmilling on a manual lathe", I find it much better specially for short threads to a shoulder.

Greetings Timo

​

 

[ZAPJACK]

The video is not exactly a "manual lathe" and he works on brass.
Stainless Steel 304 it's other things! Cast iron was just a peace of cake.
There is my method. LZ

 

[timo_gross]

The video is not exactly a "manual lathe" and he works on brass.
Stainless Steel 304 it's other things! Cast iron was just a peace of cake.

Hello,

Stefan Gotteswinter is using an Emco Maximat Super 11 similar to this one (photo from internet).

Maybe I confuse the wording. What do you consider an "exactly manual lathe"?
I consider everything a "manual Lathe" that does not use a computer to run it.

Reading your comment about "brass" I realize that I failed to bring accross the point.
Thread milling makes it specially the perfect work around for Stainless steel, because you can keep the required surface speed without problem.

Surface speed is given by the rotating tool, not the rpm of the workpiece spindle. Just put the lathe in reverse on the lowest speed or even turn the chuck by hand.

Greetings Timo

 

[ZAPJACK]

The valve is now finished.
Last part is the throttle valve wheel. LZ

 

[ZAPJACK]

I left the parts for which I did not have machining solutions until last. But after a few sleepless nights thinking about it, the ideas come.
Below, the master connecting rod. It’s a good 3km long! For square drilling, apart from a file, I don't see it. Unless a kind soul would have a square drill??
The first milling attempt was catastrophic, the part vibrate and the finish was poor...
At the end, I milled by 80mm steps, blocking the part “close as possible”
On the other hand, there remained a 10mm wide joint that I had to finish with a file, for this purpose I took out the methylene blue and my adjuster's manual...

 

[Richard Hed]

I left the parts for which I did not have machining solutions until last. But after a few sleepless nights thinking about it, the ideas come.
Below, the master connecting rod. It’s a good 3km long! For square drilling, apart from a file, I don't see it. Unless a kind soul would have a square drill??
The first milling attempt was catastrophic, the part vibrate and the finish was poor...
At the end, I milled by 80mm steps, blocking the part “close as possible”
On the other hand, there remained a 10mm wide joint that I had to finish with a file, for this purpose I took out the methylene blue and my adjuster's manual...
View attachment 152946View attachment 152947View attachment 152948View attachment 152949

.I'm confused. How could this connecting rod be 3 kilometers long? That would be two miles long--not possible. Well, I know you don't mean that but it looks to me like you are doing just fine. In my renditionj of that rod, I have modified it so that the square parts inside the crank end does not have square corners, as square corners create weak spots and are much more difficult to make. So I use a round drill for those corners rather than a square drill.