Chevy V8 Scale Engine Plane

[mrehmus]

I previously tried a sleeve like that when I was using an aluminum bar for tests. I used spiral thread hose clamps and it was not strong enough. I don't have a welder but I might be able to braze the cylinders on the end.

My tool bit is essentially that design without the center relief and wider. I will reduce the width and relieve the center. I can't believe how clean the grinder is on your tool. Was it done on a tool and cutter grinder or by hand?

The grind on the real tool bit can be seen in the first picture. Where it counts, the finish of the cutting edge is very good as it was finalized on one of those motorized diamond tool sharpeners. The picture of the bit by itself is actually a 3D drawing I made for illustration. So, yea, the finish is perfect. The horns are the only parts of the tool that need to be nicely finished.
Hose clamps are not strong enough. The clamp bits are brazed on the tubing. Brazing, according to one of the manufacturers I talked to is 3X as strong as the parent metal because the braze gets right down into grains of the metal.

Why don't I just publish the entire article here as a PDF?
Please, everyone, do not republish this article anywhere, it is copyrighted by me and is sort of a trial balloon. It is for the readers of this forum only.

 

[Carbuilder]

Have you seen Joe Pieczynski’s method? I haven't studied it enough to see if it would be applicable here, but the cool thing is that you are never turning anything too far out from the chuck/collet.

 

[SailplaneDriver]

Why don't I just publish the entire article here as a PDF?

Wow! Thanks. This explains everything I needed to know. I've read through it once quickly and will read it again with the intent of adjusting fixtures to the design I have. Thanks again.

 

[SailplaneDriver]

Have you seen Joe Pieczynski’s method?

Yes. I really like Joe Pie's videos. Unfortunately with the 1" diameter of the crank it won't work for this application.

 

[ozzie46]

The grind on the real tool bit can be seen in the first picture. Where it counts, the finish of the cutting edge is very good as it was finalized on one of those motorized diamond tool sharpeners. The picture of the bit by itself is actually a 3D drawing I made for illustration. So, yea, the finish is perfect. The horns are the only parts of the tool that need to be nicely finished.
Hose clamps are not strong enough. The clamp bits are brazed on the tubing. Brazing, according to one of the manufacturers I talked to is 3X as strong as the parent metal because the braze gets right down into grains of the metal.

Why don't I just publish the entire article here as a PDF?
Please, everyone, do not republish this article anywhere, it is copyrighted by me and is sort of a trial balloon. It is for the readers of this forum only.

Sent you a message.
Ron

 

[bluejets]

Can any member tell me what I can use for the crankshaft instead of 1144, have tried to buy from USA but sellers say because of America export laws we decline the sale to you. I am in Australia

Also from Aus....... 4140 .
Seems available most steel suppliers.

 

[peterl95124]

judging from the photo with the bent crankshaft, I'd say that your
crank pins are way too small in diameter. I have an engine with 1"
bore whose main journals are 5/8" and crank pins are 1/2". Larger
pins are both stronger and are better for wear.
HTH, YMMV,
Peter Lawrence.

 

[stevehuckss396]

The od of the bronze bearing is 5/16 so you could increase the size of the crank throw to .3115 and make the rod all bronze. That would eliminate the bushing and maybe make the crankshaft a little easier.

 

[rrocky]

The grind on the real tool bit can be seen in the first picture. Where it counts, the finish of the cutting edge is very good as it was finalized on one of those motorized diamond tool sharpeners. The picture of the bit by itself is actually a 3D drawing I made for illustration. So, yea, the finish is perfect. The horns are the only parts of the tool that need to be nicely finished.
Hose clamps are not strong enough. The clamp bits are brazed on the tubing. Brazing, according to one of the manufacturers I talked to is 3X as strong as the parent metal because the braze gets right down into grains of the metal.

Why don't I just publish the entire article here as a PDF?
Please, everyone, do not republish this article anywhere, it is copyrighted by me and is sort of a trial balloon. It is for the readers of this forum only.

The grind on the real tool bit can be seen in the first picture. Where it counts, the finish of the cutting edge is very good as it was finalized on one of those motorized diamond tool sharpeners. The picture of the bit by itself is actually a 3D drawing I made for illustration. So, yea, the finish is perfect. The horns are the only parts of the tool that need to be nicely finished.
Hose clamps are not strong enough. The clamp bits are brazed on the tubing. Brazing, according to one of the manufacturers I talked to is 3X as strong as the parent metal because the braze gets right down into grains of the metal.

Why don't I just publish the entire article here as a PDF?
Please, everyone, do not republish this article anywhere, it is copyrighted by me and is sort of a trial balloon. It is for the readers of this forum only.

The grind on the real tool bit can be seen in the first picture. Where it counts, the finish of the cutting edge is very good as it was finalized on one of those motorized diamond tool sharpeners. The picture of the bit by itself is actually a 3D drawing I made for illustration. So, yea, the finish is perfect. The horns are the only parts of the tool that need to be nicely finished.
Hose clamps are not strong enough. The clamp bits are brazed on the tubing. Brazing, according to one of the manufacturers I talked to is 3X as strong as the parent metal because the braze gets right down into grains of the metal.

Why don't I just publish the entire article here as a PDF?
Please, everyone, do not republish this article anywhere, it is copyrighted by me and is sort of a trial balloon. It is for the readers of this forum only.

Thank you for posting this it has helped me so much RRocky

 

[retailer]

Can any member tell me what I can use for the crankshaft instead of 1144, have tried to buy from USA but sellers say because of America export laws we decline the sale to you. I am in Australia

I made my crank from bar stock I picked up on Gumtree, the seller said he was quite sure it was 4140, I experienced all of the usual issues crank flexing , chatter etc but I took it real easy I can't recall how much I fed the tool in for each cut but think it was only about 0.005" (about .12mm), as you proceed the crank becomes more flexy, so I would take a cut and make 3 or 4 passes at the same setting, I reasoned that as the crank was flexing, a 0.005" thou cut would probably amount to only 0.003" or so being removed and if I had fed the tool in another 0.005" then the actual depth of cut would be 0.005" + the 0.002" left from the previous cut or 0.007" in total, as you proceed this may compound and eventually the depth of cut is too great and bang!

 

[rrocky]

Thank you for the info I will go with that cheers Peter

 

[SailplaneDriver]

The od of the bronze bearing is 5/16 so you could increase the size of the crank throw to .3115 and make the rod all bronze. That would eliminate the bushing and maybe make the crankshaft a little easier.

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm going to stick with the original design. The issue is my skills and abilities. Lots of other people have had success with these dimensions so I should be able to as well. Changing the sequence of operations and adding the clamp fixture will hopefully correct the issue.

 

[mertkan37]

[QUOTE = "stevehuckss396, gönderi: 241505, üye: 645"]
V8 için planlarım var. Eğer ilgileniyorsanız bana bir e-posta gönderin ve bazı bilgiler göndereceğim. [email protected]

[/ALINTI]
Merhaba planlar konusunda yardimcı olurmusun...