OK Cogsy.
I will, check the timing to make sure it is correct. Regarding the valves leaking I have to find a way to check that because I don't have a vacuum pump.
Edi
Building of TINY INLINE 4 in Brazil
- Thread starter e.picler
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Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
OK Cogsy.
I will, check the timing to make sure it is correct. Regarding the valves leaking I have to find a way to check that because I don't have a vacuum pump.
Edi
One more detail I forgot to mention.
I don't know important it is and what difference it make.
I'm using Benzine (airplane gasoline) it has high Octane.
TKS,
Edi
I don't know important it is and what difference it make.
I'm using Benzine (airplane gasoline) it has high Octane.
TKS,
Edi
Hello to all!
I just found what I did wrong on the camshaft.
I did not pay much attention on the setup of the milling machine to machine the lobes.
According the drawing instruction the rotary table should be set at the right side of the machine. I have set the rotary table on the left side as usual.
Checking the drawing bellow, I found that the way I machined the camshaft it is backward. The drawing view is from front and, the one I machined match the drawing if the view is from the back.
I tested the engine running it on counterclowise and it started giving some signal of life producing some puffing. I also changed the spark plug cables because the distributor rotor turn on the opposite direction.
I already started a new cameshaft.
Thanks,
Edi
I just found what I did wrong on the camshaft.
I did not pay much attention on the setup of the milling machine to machine the lobes.
According the drawing instruction the rotary table should be set at the right side of the machine. I have set the rotary table on the left side as usual.
Checking the drawing bellow, I found that the way I machined the camshaft it is backward. The drawing view is from front and, the one I machined match the drawing if the view is from the back.
I tested the engine running it on counterclowise and it started giving some signal of life producing some puffing. I also changed the spark plug cables because the distributor rotor turn on the opposite direction.
I already started a new cameshaft.
Thanks,
Edi
crankshafter
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Hi Edi.
Good to see you have sorted it. A couple of days and we will hear some noise
One thing to mention: do not run the engine without COOLING for more than few seconds each time and let it cool down before next try. If you do you will
destroy the piston-orings. do not ask why I mention this:hDe::hDe::wall:
TI4 is a hi rev. engine( idle 5-6K) and it will heat up werry quick.
best regards
CS
Good to see you have sorted it. A couple of days and we will hear some noise
One thing to mention: do not run the engine without COOLING for more than few seconds each time and let it cool down before next try. If you do you will
destroy the piston-orings. do not ask why I mention this:hDe::hDe::wall:
TI4 is a hi rev. engine( idle 5-6K) and it will heat up werry quick.
best regards
CS
Hi CS!
Thanks for the recommendation about running without cooling.
I was planning to the TI4 with the water pump installed without the radiator circulating the water in a small reservoir.
I hope to finish the new camshaft this week.
:thumbup:
Edi
Thanks for the recommendation about running without cooling.
I was planning to the TI4 with the water pump installed without the radiator circulating the water in a small reservoir.
I hope to finish the new camshaft this week.
:thumbup:
Edi
Hi again CS!
I did not find the drawing detail for the carburetor air bleed needle.
How did you do yours?
Thanks,
Edi
I did not find the drawing detail for the carburetor air bleed needle.
How did you do yours?
Thanks,
Edi
crankshafter
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I did it pr.plans. I try to attach a picture.
Airbleed adjustingscrew to the right. Airbleed hole to the left.PS
Edi it looks like there is three holes. The middle one is the acctual hole. the to others is missplaced punchmarks(shaking hand syndrom;-))CS.View attachment 20180417_083029.jpg
I did it pr.plans. I try to attach a picture.
Airbleed adjustingscrew to the right. Airbleed hole to the left.PS
CS.View attachment 95046
Thanks CS!
Is the end of the little screw tapered? I am guessing there is an angle. What is that 45, 30degrees??
Thank you for helping with your experience with the TI4.
Edi
crankshafter
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Hi again Edi.
I'm not sure, but I think I rounded the end on the air bleed- screw
with a file. I can check it to morrow. But I think it's not that important, rounded or not
And how is the work with the new camshaft going?
CS
I'm not sure, but I think I rounded the end on the air bleed- screw
with a file. I can check it to morrow. But I think it's not that important, rounded or not
And how is the work with the new camshaft going?
CS
Hello CS!
I'm almost done with the lathe work. Unfortunately, the belt of the motor from the lathe broke. I will order another one tomorrow.
Until I wait for the belt, I will machine the lobes on the blank.
I think I will finish the camshaft by Saturday or Sunday.
Regarding the air bleed screw, I will make a 45 degree angle at the end.
Tks,
Edi
I'm almost done with the lathe work. Unfortunately, the belt of the motor from the lathe broke. I will order another one tomorrow.
Until I wait for the belt, I will machine the lobes on the blank.
I think I will finish the camshaft by Saturday or Sunday.
Regarding the air bleed screw, I will make a 45 degree angle at the end.
Tks,
Edi
Hi to all!
The new camshaft blank is ready for the lobes.
I'm really confused about how to use the lobes table bellow. For exemple cylider #1 Exaust closed 0 degrees Exaust open 130 it does not form the 50 angle within lobe flanks
Can anyone help me with that?
I don't remember how I figure that out for the old camshaft because I did a program on Mastercam to generate the G code and I don't want to use it again.
Thanks,
Edi
The new camshaft blank is ready for the lobes.
I'm really confused about how to use the lobes table bellow. For exemple cylider #1 Exaust closed 0 degrees Exaust open 130 it does not form the 50 angle within lobe flanks
Can anyone help me with that?
I don't remember how I figure that out for the old camshaft because I did a program on Mastercam to generate the G code and I don't want to use it again.
Thanks,
Edi
An update on the camshaft issue.
Reading the instructions with very close attention, I found what I was doing wrong.
It had to do with how to start the cutting of the first lobe. I was doing it backwards.
After having the understanding on how to start the machining, strictly following the table, I have cut the lobes.
The photo bellow shows the correct and the wrong camshaft. The one on the botton (black end) is the correct one. Please observe that the lobes are inverted
Still missing to grind the ends of the bushings bearing. I will do that tomorrow
Cheers,
Edi
Reading the instructions with very close attention, I found what I was doing wrong.
It had to do with how to start the cutting of the first lobe. I was doing it backwards.
After having the understanding on how to start the machining, strictly following the table, I have cut the lobes.
The photo bellow shows the correct and the wrong camshaft. The one on the botton (black end) is the correct one. Please observe that the lobes are inverted
Still missing to grind the ends of the bushings bearing. I will do that tomorrow
Cheers,
Edi
Hi John!
Yes, almost there!
I have finished the camshaft today ant tested it on the engine. It seems to be OK.
Tomorrow I will install the distributor and try to staTI4 again but, first I will machine a starting tool. I have purchased a OneWay bearing 5X9X9 which will be installed in a small shaft with a pocket in one end for the bearing and use a battery drill bit machine.
I have tried to use a Dremel machine with a pulley as per the project however, it did not work not enough power.
Tks,
Edi
Yes, almost there!
I have finished the camshaft today ant tested it on the engine. It seems to be OK.
Tomorrow I will install the distributor and try to staTI4 again but, first I will machine a starting tool. I have purchased a OneWay bearing 5X9X9 which will be installed in a small shaft with a pocket in one end for the bearing and use a battery drill bit machine.
I have tried to use a Dremel machine with a pulley as per the project however, it did not work not enough power.
Tks,
Edi
crankshafter
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Hi Edi.
How is things going reg. The TI4? Do you have any updates?
Best regards.
CS
How is things going reg. The TI4? Do you have any updates?
Best regards.
CS
Hi CS!
Thanks for asking.
I did not have much time to deal with the TI4 lately.
Im still struggling to make it start running. It shows good signs to start (puffing) however it does not run. I just remove the head yesterday because I observed that the cylinder 2 and 3 where getting too much oil on the head causing the spark plug to be too wet and blocking the spark.
Im guessing that I filled with too much oil because I have changed the design of the oil pan, I made it flat on the bottom.
I will also check if there is any valve liking, as I dont have a vacuum pump, I will try with compressed air.
How are starting yours? As mentioned on my last post I had to make a starting device with a Oneway bearing. The Dremell did not work with a pulley and a Oring
Tks,
Edi
Thanks for asking.
I did not have much time to deal with the TI4 lately.
Im still struggling to make it start running. It shows good signs to start (puffing) however it does not run. I just remove the head yesterday because I observed that the cylinder 2 and 3 where getting too much oil on the head causing the spark plug to be too wet and blocking the spark.
Im guessing that I filled with too much oil because I have changed the design of the oil pan, I made it flat on the bottom.
I will also check if there is any valve liking, as I dont have a vacuum pump, I will try with compressed air.
How are starting yours? As mentioned on my last post I had to make a starting device with a Oneway bearing. The Dremell did not work with a pulley and a Oring
Tks,
Edi
Hi to all!
I have checked the valves for liking and found some was not sealing well, so I decided to refinish the valves heads and valves seats on the head.
This photo shows how I set the grinding on the lathe.Here I'm dressing the grinding stone. For the valves, I just set to 45 degrees
Using the same setup for the valves, I also reground the tool to make the seats on the head in order to copy exactly the same angle on the valves.
Unfortunately the TI4 insists in not run. It only puffs. I double checked the cam timing as well as the distributor. Everything seems to be correct. I have set the distributor around 30 degrees advanced as per Kelly instructions.
Any idea what should be wrong?
I suspect that maybe Im using too low RPM to start (1300), Kelly recommend to use a Dremell with a pulley with not more than 0.5 in diameter touching the Fly Wheel.
Im using a battery drilling machine with a Oneway bearing because the Dremell had no power to move the fly wheel.
The cylinders seem to have good compression
Some hints from the fewllows here, would be great apreciated.
Thanks,
Edi
I have checked the valves for liking and found some was not sealing well, so I decided to refinish the valves heads and valves seats on the head.
This photo shows how I set the grinding on the lathe.Here I'm dressing the grinding stone. For the valves, I just set to 45 degrees
Using the same setup for the valves, I also reground the tool to make the seats on the head in order to copy exactly the same angle on the valves.
Unfortunately the TI4 insists in not run. It only puffs. I double checked the cam timing as well as the distributor. Everything seems to be correct. I have set the distributor around 30 degrees advanced as per Kelly instructions.
Any idea what should be wrong?
I suspect that maybe Im using too low RPM to start (1300), Kelly recommend to use a Dremell with a pulley with not more than 0.5 in diameter touching the Fly Wheel.
Im using a battery drilling machine with a Oneway bearing because the Dremell had no power to move the fly wheel.
The cylinders seem to have good compression
Some hints from the fewllows here, would be great apreciated.
Thanks,
Edi
If the plugs are gapped too wide the spark might be zooming every where but to the plug. Try about a .010 gap in the plugs.
Check the timing with a timing light. You would be shocked how far off you can be checking by turning by hand.
Start with the carb screw closed all the way and slowly open until it starts to pop. You'll get it going.
Check the timing with a timing light. You would be shocked how far off you can be checking by turning by hand.
Start with the carb screw closed all the way and slowly open until it starts to pop. You'll get it going.
Hello Steve!
Thanks for your hints:thumbup:
Yes, the gaps on the plugs are bigger than .010. I will set them to .010
I'm not familiar with the timing light. How do I perform that test? Is there any device for that?
I will also follow your advice for the carb.
This project, the TI4, has been a good exercise before putting the hands on your Demon V8 I got the plans from you.
Thanks again!
Edi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TE46SY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
red and black clips go to a 12 volt source. The other clip goes around the plug wire on cylinder #1. When the #1 cylinder fires the light will flash. If you have a mark on your crankshaft at the point where that piston is at top dead center you will see where the mark is at the time it fires. Other marks can be made at 10, 20, 30 degrees before top center so you can tell where it is firing.
Also check to see that the rotor is in the correct place when trying to fire. If it's too far off it could be firing over to an adjacent cylinder sometimes.
There is so much to getting an engine. Take your time and dont loose hope. You'll find something.
red and black clips go to a 12 volt source. The other clip goes around the plug wire on cylinder #1. When the #1 cylinder fires the light will flash. If you have a mark on your crankshaft at the point where that piston is at top dead center you will see where the mark is at the time it fires. Other marks can be made at 10, 20, 30 degrees before top center so you can tell where it is firing.
Also check to see that the rotor is in the correct place when trying to fire. If it's too far off it could be firing over to an adjacent cylinder sometimes.
There is so much to getting an engine. Take your time and dont loose hope. You'll find something.
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