Building of TINY INLINE 4 in Brazil

[e.picler]

Hi Steve!
OK. Now I know what is a “Timing Light”, my Dad owned a car repair shop when I was a kid (many years ago) and I remember him using one of that, branded Bosch with analogic advance display. I know that as “stroboscopic pistol/gun”. My limited English caused the doubt.

I got even more confused because the new CDI has a led which the manufacturer calls Timing Light.
I checked the price locally and found to be around US$ 50,00. I will buy one because I have a couple more engines projects on the way which I already have the plans and can be a good investiment.
- Peewee casting kit
- Demon V8 – your design
- Mastiff casting kit
- Four-cylinder boxer

I really liked your hints/suggestions. Good ones, I will follow them.

Thanks again for your help.

Edi

 

[e.picler]

Hi to all!
Yes Yes It Run....! It Run....!

I made the angle marks on the fly wheel for ignition timing as suggested by Steve.


I also started with the fuel needle fully closed and opening 1/4 turn step.
Another change was using the Dremell with a pulley and a bigger O-ring.
I still did not get constant running but I think it just a matter of fine tuning the carb and the ignition timing.

https://youtu.be/y7Y1k4Q5WEo


https://youtu.be/y7Y1k4Q5WEo


Unfortunetly one valve adjustment screw got jamed by the pushrod and broke the threaded tip of the camshaft where the distributor gear is attached


I already fixed it by making an insert to the end of the camshaft. Basically, I made an internal 2.5mm thread to the broken end of the camshaft and then one threaded 2.5mm pin and fixed it with Loctite. Using the same set up for the internal thread, I turned the 3mm guide and the 2.5mm thread for the distributor gear. I hope it is stiff enough and stands for job.

In Spite of the accident with the camshaft, I am so HAPPY because the TI4 gave me hope that it can RUN...

TKS,

Edi

 

[crankshafter]

Hi Edi.
Nnnnnice! Good to see it running. Happy for you. I wonder how could that nut make it down in to the timing gears

CS

 

[Herbiev]

Well done. Great work.

 

[stevehuckss396]

Stay at it! it will come around.

 

[e.picler]

Thanks CS, Herbiev and Steve!

To avoid another accident getting the valve screw and pushrod jamed, I decided to modify the pushrod and made new ones.
A added a bigger diameter on the end that the valve screw seats on. The pictures bellow explain better than my limited English vocabulary



It provided more area for the screw to travel when the pushrod moves up and down.


I will try to run the TI4 today again. Fingers crossed!!!!!
Tks,
Edi

 

[Stieglitz]

Hi Edi, Congratulations what a great result,thank you for sharing.
Cheers
Allen.

 

[Cogsy]

Looking forward to the result Edi - it's looking great!

 

[e.picler]

Hi to all!
As planed, I assembled the new pushrods (it worked very well) then did another run test. This time it ran better but still does not stabilize, as you remove the dremell it dies.

I suspect that something is wrong on the carburetor.

As I still did not make the radiator, installed the water pump and did the water circulate thru a can.

Last attempt on video bellow

https://youtu.be/aI1pjg7uWYM

Edi

 

[Mechanicboy]

I suspect that something is wrong on the carburetor.

The fuel tank is too low under the carburator hence it's difficult to such the fuel into carburator.

See picture..

 

[e.picler]

Hi Jens!
Thanks for your recommendation. I also though it could be a problem so, I raised the tank above the carburetor (the video you cannot see it).
Last night I unassembled the carburetor and I think I found at least a mistake.
The end of the Spray Bar is too loose into the barrel hole. The plans calls for tight fit I guess as it has the same diameters. See the picture of the plan bellow.


When I turned the Spray Bar I did not pay attention to this detail and it turned to have too much clearance. The pictures bellow shows the excessive clearance.



Due to the excessive clearance does not produce the vacuum necessary into the Spray Bar chamber to such the fuel (I GUESS).

I will machine another spray bar today and hope it correct the problem.

Thanks,

Edi

 

[Mechanicboy]

If there is air leakage, there is not possible to suck fuel into the carburator. You can set a o-ring as sealant against air leakage past main needle in spraybar. Also you must change the constuction of the spraybar/needle assembly to add o-ring as sealant. And make the clearance between carburator body and rotor tight as possible and rotate free with less airleakage. The opening A must be smaller before air is entered into the rotor house and from rotor house is the opening B larger to create vacuum under idling to suck the fuel. See at the picture.. B must be a bit open while the A is closed when you are checking all is correct. The airscrew at carburator house is to regulate more or less air to regulate vacuum in the rotor house then the amount of fuel is regulated to a correct air/fuel mix under idling. Air screw is same as to "increase" or "decrease" A opening.

 

[e.picler]

Hello Jens!
Thank you very much for your drawings and explanations, it is being very useful to understand the principles of the carburetor.

This carburetor design already has proven to work, a couple of guys here built the same engine and it is running. I may have done something wrong during the machining process.

I have made a new Spry Bar correcting the excessive clearance between the Barrel hole and the tip of the spray bar.


It is a little better but insists in not stay running when I remove the Dremell from the flywheel.

Next, I will recheck the carburetor parts to the drawings specs.
Also I tough to verify the timing of the camshaft. Sometimes it seem to run on only 3 cylinders.


Thanks,

Edi

 

[e.picler]

Hi!
I found a problem on the Carb Barrel. The hole was .3mm (,0118'') off center. It caused a situation on the idle position the hole barrel on the bottom side of the throttle diameter was almost closed.

I made a new Barrel and did a run test again. I got it running constantly but still not responding to throttle. See the video bellow.
https://youtu.be/bhP97E-xj0s

It is very tricky and scary to drill a very small hole 0.4mm (.016’&#8217 and not breaking the drill bit.


One step at a time. I will get there!

The plans does not have the drawing for the fuel tank.
CS, what is the size of the tank you did for yours (diameter and lenght)?, also how high is it in relation to the carb?

Thanks,
Edi

 

[crankshafter]

Hi Edi.
I'm a little buissy right now but I will take a messure later.
Your TI4 runns nice on full throttle:thumbup: I'm sure you will have the issue with the idling solved.
Happy for you.
CS

 

[Cogsy]

Sounds great Edi - congrats! You'll have it tuned up in no time I'm sure.

 

[e.picler]

Thanks Cogsy!

CS, no problem, take your time no rush. I will touch on the tank and the radiator after I have the carburetor working well.

I have removed the head to check the valves and take a look on the pistons head and observed that only the exhaust valve had carbonization, see the picture bellow. Is it normal or is it an indication of a problem? On a car engine both valves show carbonization.




What could be the problem for not idling and not responding to the throttle?

I think the best thing to do is to make a complete new carburetor. The question on the air is. Is the problem on the caburetor?

CS, did you also had problems to get your TI4 running accordingly?


Thanks,

Edi

 

[crankshafter]

Hi again Edi.
I think I made the tank a little to big L=75x40mmOD and wall tickness 0,4mm. If I had to make it over(Taking too much space I think) 50x30mm would have been OK.
CS

 

[crankshafter]

Edi
Here is som pictures.

CsView attachment 20180516_085422.jpegView attachment 20180516_084424.jpeg

 

[e.picler]

Hi CS!
Thank you very much for the information and the pictures.

I observed that the inlet tube on the spray bar is bigger than the plans calls for (1/16'' I'm assuming it is OD). What is the diameter you have used?
I also noticed on the video that Kell used a bigger diameter as well.

Thanks again for all your help.

Edi