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Phil--Just so you know---The cam doesn't always have to be in contact with the points. It can just "bump" them open with the high point on the cam. The points only need about .030" of air gap between them when they are fully open to work satisfactorily. ---Brian
 
Thanks Brian and Rob. I noted in Stride's book on IC Engines that a point gap of around 0.020" was recommended. They're adjustable, so I'll keep it around the 0.020" - 0.030" to save the battery.

Cheers,
Phil
 
That is a amazing Dingy! You are a man of many talents. I built one back in 2001.

Our boat.jpg
 
Phil,

You are very talented! I enjoyed reading this post and took notes. I learned a lot! Keep up the outstanding work!
 
Thanks Rob. That's a nice looking boat, a 10 footer?

At one time I had my eye on building a 20 foot diesel trawler style but never found a barn I could build it in.

Cheers,
Phil
 
I'm placing the engine and carby on some 3/8" ally and trying to decide on a convenient layout. Still playing with the electrics and will have that sorted out soon enough.

This is the last photo of the pile of parts that resembles an engine.



Now I've got to disassemble it and take care of a passel of details that I left for last. Oil holes, loctite some bushings, add threaded holes to the engine frame for mounting to the base + stuff I'll think of (hopefully) before a final assembly and a test run.

I could use some advice on the spark timing. Should it be just before, just after or at TDC?

Thanks for looking

Cheers,
Phil
 
Thanks Jim, I'm hopeful it IS an engine and not just a collection of engine parts.;)

From Webster:
en·gine

[en-juh
thinsp.png
thinsp.png
n]
noun 1. a machine for converting thermal energy into mechanical energy or power to produce force and motion.


Cheers,
Phil
 
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I've got the ignition wired up and timed. I've got the exhaust valve opening just before BDC. I have a driver attached to the crankshaft. Not yours Brian, I was too anxious to try a test run. But I'm definitely in need of yours soon and that's going to get done during tomorrow's snowstorm.

When I squirt a little fuel (a milliliter) into the tube on the intake manifold and spin the engine, it runs off the drill for maybe 10 seconds, then it starts to fire and may pop as many as 10 times, then stops firing.



I need a reality check here. I think what's happening is that initially the mixture is too rich to fire, leans out and fires, then becomes too lean. Is that reasonable or am I dreaming?

Once I make Brian's driver I'll hook up the vapor carby and go from there.

Advice appreciated

Cheers,
Phil
 
Philjoe--You really can't tell anything until you get some form of carb on there. The fact that its firing at all is a very good sign. What is your plan for a carb? ---Brian
 
Brian, I'm using Jan Ridder's vapor carby



I'm ready to hook it up but thought I'd test the timing first.

Cheers,
Phil
 
Thanks Moshe. I like your avatar - my 2nd favorite character after the roadrunner:D

Well thanks to the snowstorm (10" forecast) I had a good day in the shop making Brian Rupnow's engine starter. Just one step closer to the finish line



Cheers,
Phil
 
When I squirt a little fuel (a milliliter) into the tube on the intake manifold and spin the engine, it runs off the drill for maybe 10 seconds, then it starts to fire and may pop as many as 10 times, then stops firing.

Cheers,
Phil

This engine is so willing to run that if you don't let it, it will start of its own accord.

Happy dance any time now.

Jim
 
This engine is so willing to run that if you don't let it, it will start of its own accord.
Last night I had a dream that I got the engine running. Then I heard a noise coming from the basement, like an engine running. That WAS part of the dream right?:hDe:

Cheers.
Phil
 
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