Brian Builds the Kerzel Hit and Miss I.C.

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Brian,

The trick to cutting a valve is to not cut the entire stem length in one finish pass. Let me explain. I don't mean that the whole stem would be cut in one pass knowing that it would take several to accomplish this, what I mean is rather than cut the whole length of the stem in successive passes getting smaller and smaller until reaching the desired diameter which you found out will cause the stem to spring just cut say 1/3 of the length to size in successive passes. Record your finish dial reading. Now cut another 1/3 to size and finally cut the remaining 1/3. You can even leave a small amount on the diameter if you wish .0005. Then lightly file and polish the stem to size. When cutting a small diameter there is no way to keep the spring out of the part.

An alternative machining method would be to center drill your stock with a small center drill, just enough to seat a live center. Now move the stock out from the chuck so you have working room, tighten the chuck and set the live center. Now you can turn the entire length of the stem to size without any spring. Just leave a big enough diameter at the center end to maintain support. When you are finished turning just cut the excess material with the center hole off.

As far as how to cut valve seats or any part for that matter everyone has their own ideas. If the finished part works then that person's idea is good. The problem with using a 'twist drill' is that it can drill off center. Yeah I know you said you center drilled the hole first so it will drill right on center. Maybe it will and maybe it won't. There is a reason why so many fellows are having problems with this process, just ask Steve Huck how many valve cages he has made. When you machine this very nice looking valve cage how is it going to be installed in the head, a light press fit? Might it distort a little when you do this? Maybe it will and maybe it won't.
I have presented my machining processes because they have worked better for me than other ways that I have tried. Does that mean my way is the only way to do something, absolutely and categorically not!!!

In the process of building an engine of any complexity the builder generally ends up with more than a few mounting or chucking fixtures and special tools, it's just part of the building process. Like I said, if you can do something without making a special tool and have it work by all means go for it but certainly don't avoid making a tool because it takes time and skill. Doesn't it take skill to build an engine? Wasn't there new machining methods learned when going from a steam/air engine to an internal combustion engine?

The reason for the pilot on the tool is to allow people with shaky hands to accomplish the job. The pilot keeps the tool aligned and tight in the guide hole.

As an aside to this reply, when they machine symmetrical holes on full sized engines the operation is done with one tool. The tool is a specially manufactured tool with a pilot, possibly several counterbores and possibly a chamber. The reason for this is because they realize that by changing tools you can add dimensional error to
an operation.

George
 
Thanks Jim and George. Good explanation on why a guided seat cutter would have a better chance of producing a valve seat concentric with the valve stem guide bore, opposed to relying on the cutters (drills & reamers, and seat cutter) to produce this in one set-up. Makes perfect sense. I don't have enough experience in producing leaky valve stems to have realized a need for this tool/technique. With one valve on my build of Chuck's single, and two on the John Deere, both sealed with out a problem. Must just be dumb luck, since I'm just a rookie.

The Kerzel plans do not suggest the use of a valve seat cutter, all operations are done in one set-up. The Upshur plans do, since short 'valve guides' are used, but no information on how to make one. I'm sticking with the designers plan, and hoping some one will post complete information on (or link to) making a proper valve seat cutter.

-MB
 
MetalButcher---If its a detail drawing you want, you've come to the right place!!! I made a new intake valve today, got the shank perfect, no undersize. Put it in the engine and it doesn't work as good as it did yesterday---Can't get compression at all now. I am soon going to start running in circles and biting myself. I've got all my kids coming here this evening for a mass birthday feast (the two boys were born the same day 3 years apart.)---However, tomorrow morning I will do up a detail drawing of the cutter like GBritnell built. If you want to send me the specs on your valve and guide, I'll make a detail of a cutter for your particular engine and post it for you. ----Brian
 
This is the cutter GBritnell made.---Beautifull work, very clever. I don't generally do plagerism, but I think George will probably forgive me if I put up a detail drawing of what he did. And of course, if I get anything wrong, I know George will correct me!!! :p :p :p
VALVESEATCUTTINGTOOL.jpg
 
Engines will run with somewhat leaky valves. Whats fun though is running your engine with perfect valve and piston seals. When you can hand start it for your friends by hardly having to pull it through they know you've got it right. When I go to the show and watch a guy try several times to rope start or have to get out the drill to electric start his engine I know its not built good enough. some engines are just naturally a little fussy but most of the time an engine hard to hand start is leaking compression somewhere.
 
Brian Rupnow said:
MetalButcher---If its a detail drawing you want, you've come to the right place!!! I made a new intake valve today, got the shank perfect, no undersize. Put it in the engine and it doesn't work as good as it did yesterday---Can't get compression at all now. I am soon going to start running in circles and biting myself. I've got all my kids coming here this evening for a mass birthday feast (the two boys were born the same day 3 years apart.)---However, tomorrow morning I will do up a detail drawing of the cutter like GBritnell built. If you want to send me the specs on your valve and guide, I'll make a detail of a cutter for your particular engine and post it for you. ----Brian

Thanks Brian. The cutter you drew up will work on my build. The valves are the same size. It seems both engines are very similar in certain areas. Snap a few shots of how you sharpen it up. Since it will be cutting a very small seat in soft brass, and twisted with light hand preasure, it probably doesn't even need to be heat treated, but correct me if I'm wrong.

-MB
 
MB Probably it doesn't have to be heat treated.---Tell ya what though---If my cutter will work for you, I will send it to you after I make it and try it myself. I bought drill rod to make it out of, so that I could harden it.
 
I don't notice any relief ground into that cutter. Is it not needed?
 
Brian,
You beat me to it but it looks great. The only thing I might change is to leave the shank above the pilot full length for extra rigidity. Here's the PDF that I was working on prior to reading your post.
George

View attachment VALVE SEAT CUTTER INSTRUCTIONS.pdf
 
Brian Rupnow said:
MB Probably it doesn't have to be heat treated.---Tell ya what though---If my cutter will work for you, I will send it to you after I make it and try it myself. I bought drill rod to make it out of, so that I could harden it.

Thanks Brian that's a very generous offer! However, I respectfully decline. Keep yours for future projects or study. I can see the need to learn,and should make my own to see how its done. I'll probably need to make other cutters like it in the future.

Thanks again Brian! :)

George's shop is only 10 minutes away, I could always borrow his, he wouldn't mind. ;D

-MB
 
gbritnell said:
Brian,
You beat me to it but it looks great. The only thing I might change is to leave the shank above the pilot full length for extra rigidity. Here's the PDF that I was working on prior to reading your post.
George

Thanks George! The pdf is very helpful, and explains how to make the relief, "Tilt on 45* rotate 15*.

The only thing I need to over come is the "tilt on 45*".

My Spin-dex clone is horizontal only.

Maybe I can use a tilted square collet block..hmm.

-MB
 
Thanks George---On the PDF I'm good up to the "tilt on 45 degrees, rotate 15 degrees", to put relief on the cutter. I can't even begin to imagime what you are doing there. My part will be held horizontally in a 3 jaw chuck mounted to my rotary table to mill the four pockets What do I tilt? how do I tilt it? What possible combination of machinery can you use to do that??---and finally, can I just do it with a needle file?---Brian
 
Hi Brian,

I have a small dividing head that is capable of rotating about the y axis but a 5c collet block could also be used.

The relief behind the cutting edge can most definitely be filed. On smaller cutters I do it all the time. When the cutter gets a little bigger I back of the clearance with the mill. It saves a lot of filing.

The reason for the tilt is to bring the 45 degree surface up to horizontal. The piece is then rotated anywhere between 5-15 degrees to mill the relief behind the cutting edge.

The most important part in making this tool is that the cutting edges all be exactly the same. That is why I use a headband magnifier. After the part is hardened it will be a dark blue/black color. You can clearly see when you are honing clearance on the land as it approaches the cutting edge.

George
 
Well, there certainly wasn't much to that. ---and I machined it all with HSS tooling. The material is drill rod. I filed the relief behind the cutting faces with a jewellers file before hardening.!!!
valveseatcutter-3002.jpg
 
Well Done Brian, See there is nothing to it.

Does your camera have a "Macro" function? It should be an Icon that looks like a flower. Use the macro without zoom for best results.

Kel
 
Well Boys---this ones going up on the shelf. I have failed miserably, and at this point in time I simply don't know why. I built the valve seat cutter and used it, and it worked well. Before using it, I coated the face of the valve cages in the seat area with layout die, and it was quite plain that when I used the valve seat cutter I was removing new metal and getting a good shiny seat. Both valves were lapped again, and finally the engine was reassembled. It didn't make any difference at all to the compression--AT ALL!!!! I have spent far to much time and energy on what should have been a smple engine to get running, its starting to make me lose sleep at night, and good wife is beginning to ask if I live in the house or down in the workshop. This has been a great run. and its a rather bitter pill to swallow. Maybe in February I'll come back to it with a new fresh outlook, but for now, I'm whipped!!!-----Brian
 

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