boiler explosion. what not to do.

[Bentwings]

Make a short tap wrench for better control, feel, and subsequent joy when you don't break any taps. A simple one from 2 off 1/4" square bars, and 2 screws to clamp them to the tap works well on titchy little taps.
K2

I received a new short tap tool late yesterday. You make me feel like a professor of steam with your praise thank you!
I realized some insulation ofvthe delivery pipe was required so I looked in my favorite supplier site McMaster Carr. Yes they have a number of fiberglass insulating sleeves that will work. There is even a split type so you can go around joints . It’s also pretty inexpensive. Actually we use this in ou streetrods around headers to keep heat in the pipes and away from other car parts. I’m now thinking of making s more efficient intake and exhaust manifolds. I’m going to make another voyage into the weld shop and see if I can press the envelope of my vision dong some precision welding or brazing . I can get 1/4” copper elbows and we have a nice bender used for stainless steel brake lines so I make longer runs and-neater connections. I don’t like pie fitting connections . I’m used to making flanges and slip fit exhaust systems.
I’m viewing his super heating as a way to “ super charge” the steam engine without the blower supercharger. I’ll be able to have variable @ boost at the turn of a valve.
Yes I’m well aware of the dangers of hot steam . Scares me to death . I’ve even given thought to enclosing my operation in a poly carb cover .
Now my question is how do I calculate the energy available in super heated steam I found a nice chart showing pressure and temperatures so if I know one I get the other. This new book I’m getting should have some of he math I think. I’m pretty sure by testing I’ll be able to plot approximate run times at temp or pressure . I just got a nice Ashcroft pressure gage and fittings to make siphon tube.
I mounted the engine frame yesterday but I made a mistake using particle board. While nice and flat I does not take the thread inserts well . I need some super glue to hold them in. This creates issue as super glue wil invariably get into the thread inserts. Then I’ll have to run a tap into them .
I have not tried using Wd40 on the threaded part so I’ll try that today.
we are supposed to get a foot of snow and blizzard conditions later today so I think I’ll walk up to the auto parts store and get some super glue so I can continue assembly not looking forward to shoveling snow.
Byron

 

[Bentwings]

I received a new short tap tool late yesterday. You make me feel like a professor of steam with your praise thank you!
I realized some insulation ofvthe delivery pipe was required so I looked in my favorite supplier site McMaster Carr. Yes they have a number of fiberglass insulating sleeves that will work. There is even a split type so you can go around joints . It’s also pretty inexpensive. Actually we use this in ou streetrods around headers to keep heat in the pipes and away from other car parts. I’m now thinking of making s more efficient intake and exhaust manifolds. I’m going to make another voyage into the weld shop and see if I can press the envelope of my vision dong some precision welding or brazing . I can get 1/4” copper elbows and we have a nice bender used for stainless steel brake lines so I make longer runs and-neater connections. I don’t like pie fitting connections . I’m used to making flanges and slip fit exhaust systems.
I’m viewing his super heating as a way to “ super charge” the steam engine without the blower supercharger. I’ll be able to have variable @ boost at the turn of a valve.
Yes I’m well aware of the dangers of hot steam . Scares me to death . I’ve even given thought to enclosing my operation in a poly carb cover .
Now my question is how do I calculate the energy available in super heated steam I found a nice chart showing pressure and temperatures so if I know one I get the other. This new book I’m getting should have some of he math I think. I’m pretty sure by testing I’ll be able to plot approximate run times at temp or pressure . I just got a nice Ashcroft pressure gage and fittings to make siphon tube.
I mounted the engine frame yesterday but I made a mistake using particle board. While nice and flat I does not take the thread inserts well . I need some super glue to hold them in. This creates issue as super glue wil invariably get into the thread inserts. Then I’ll have to run a tap into them .
I have not tried using Wd40 on the threaded part so I’ll try that today.
we are supposed to get a foot of snow and blizzard conditions later today so I think I’ll walk up to the auto parts store and get some super glue so I can continue assembly not looking forward to shoveling snow.
Byron

In continuing development of this system I see need for at lease 3 check valves maybe a fourth. So I’ve looked around but have not found a bolt in or on one that I can use. Soooooo. That means make our own. A little sketching I came up with using fine thread UNF. Coupling nuts commonly called high nuts as they are much extended nuts along with some matching set screws and nuts. I can use a center drill to drill a seat for a single ball bearing then drill through . McMaster has balls and springs so it’s a matter of getting the right combinations. Also UNF thread happens to be the same as AN fitting threads so our pressure tester for the racer will work to see what ever pressure is desired . Similar valves are used on the racer. Often spacers of various sizes are used to set pressures but in this case I’ll be able to just screw in the long set screw ans secure it with jamb but there are adaptor for what ever thread I need to hook to pressure vessels all parts are available in stainless steel or brass. Stainless is only about 4 times as much cost wise . LOL THIS WILL MAKECTHE OPTIONAL MANUAL Valve easier too. It’s nice when solution can be derived in orderly fashion.
I’m looking at the assembly drawing and I see a bolt on flange for the intake and exhaust tubes. So maybe the headers as intake manifold might not be as complicated as I thought . I’m going to order some 1/4” elbows and 45 deg elbows. I’m no thinking I may need a small fixture to fish mouth these for brazing . Oh yes silicone bronze brazing rod is now barky priceless. I have a miniature propane torch that was supposed to be for soldering but is way too hot for that so if I can fixture this I may b able to do this at home. I also dug out a fish tank water pump so I could rig up a heat sink. Small copper stuff like this gets hot fast and stays hot . I’ve used heat sinks to make model exhaust in the past. I think there is some 1/4” aluminum fuel line in the scrap box so this could work nicely. Next up is to test whether Wd40 will prevent super glue from sticking never tried that but I now have need. Byron

 

[Steamchick]

Hi Byron, most people typically use a nice bit of teak, beech or mahogany for their mounting boards. Proper "Engineering" wood, not dust held together by formica.....
K2

 

[Bentwings]

Hi Byron, most people typically use a nice bit of teak, beech or mahogany for their mounting boards. Proper "Engineering" wood, not dust held together by formica.....
K2

actually this is just temporary.
M planning on a scale laminated oak display floor similar to the old textile mill floors. It will be glossy smooth resin coated. Since there are two engines the crankshafts have to line up each crank spins perfectly in its frame but the cranks have to line up too. I have a ground steel line up bar but there are 8 main bearing to line up. I’m within about .001 now but there still is a tight spot . A piece of paper is too much and a piece of aluminum foil is not enough. If I can get a icee of lasting wrap to lay flat I think it will be just right.
In view of all the issues I’m already having , I’m sorry I didn’t start out with the tooling plate I originally planned. I’ve been fighting the new short tap wrench all afternoon. I don’t know where it came from but it’s the worst piece of junk I’ve had in a long time the closing ring feels like it’s got sand in it. I managed to sand it smoother but it still barely holds the tap. I have to use a pliers just to get it tight enough to hold the M3 tap

 

[Bentwings]

actually this is just temporary.
M planning on a scale laminated oak display floor similar to the old textile mill floors. It will be glossy smooth resin coated. Since there are two engines the crankshafts have to line up each crank spins perfectly in its frame but the cranks have to line up too. I have a ground steel line up bar but there are 8 main bearing to line up. I’m within about .001 now but there still is a tight spot . A piece of paper is too much and a piece of aluminum foil is not enough. If I can get a icee of lasting wrap to lay flat I think it will be just right.
In view of all the issues I’m already having , I’m sorry I didn’t start out with the tooling plate I originally planned. I’ve been fighting the new short tap wrench all afternoon. I don’t know where it came from but it’s the worst piece of junk I’ve had in a long time the closing ring feels like it’s got sand in it. I managed to sand it smoother but it still barely holds the tap. I have to use a pliers just to get it tight enough to hold the M3 tap

I’m just getting ready to take pictures I may try a short video it be a first for me so don’t expect much . I’m going to lay in the crankshafts and connecting flywheel . I lost my high temp sealer so I’m going to have to walk up to the auto parts store it’s blizzard conditions and cold.
Here is another thought along the super heater road. As long as I’m goingvto be stuck using the air compressor . If I can make the super heater add on why not run the air from the compressor through it? The air will go through a filter dryer so it will be less humid than boiler vapor. Aft all it’s just air being heated so energy added. I have to give more though to this. I can see some minor changes required . Basically go to given pressure with relief valve protection . It’s still very hot air. I would treat it like steam and use steam oil in the lubricator. It has a drain so it would be easy to drain a little. Being carefull of course the lubricator would function as normal. I just would not use the standard air line lubricator . Any thoughts?
byron

 

[Bentwings]

I’m just getting ready to take pictures I may try a short video it be a first for me so don’t expect much . I’m going to lay in the crankshafts and connecting flywheel . I lost my high temp sealer so I’m going to have to walk up to the auto parts store it’s blizzard conditions and cold.
Here is another thought along the super heater road. As long as I’m goingvto be stuck using the air compressor . If I can make the super heater add on why not run the air from the compressor through it? The air will go through a filter dryer so it will be less humid than boiler vapor. Aft all it’s just air being heated so energy added. I have to give more though to this. I can see some minor changes required . Basically go to given pressure with relief valve protection . It’s still very hot air. I would treat it like steam and use steam oil in the lubricator. It has a drain so it would be easy to drain a little. Being carefull of course the lubricator would function as normal. I just would not use the standard air line lubricator . Any thoughts?
byron

talk about dumb things to do. I just had to have the high temp sealer. I misplaced the tube a bought a couple weeks ago so I decided to walk up to the auto parts store it’s only a mile and a half and I’m supposed go for a walk every day. Well today is pushing the limit. It’s blizzard conditions with white out from blowing snow plus wind chil is -25deg F . So being pig headed I get bundled up and go out there is 6” or more snow on the ground and plow has been buyer. Why would someone walk on the edge of a busy highway in blinding blizzard with severe winter weather warnings out? So I’m walking down the street to the parts store and stumbled on the speed bump as I couldn’t see it. In sports when you fall you roll as much as you cn we practiced this endless don’t put your hand out. Well down I went I’m 80 and not supposed to fall. So riled over hanging on to my cane. A motorist honked and yelled out the window if I was ok. I waved my cane and yelled ok . Then coming home I was going by the gas station and a trucker beeped the hot and asked if he could give me a ride home I was only 1/4 mile away but I said ok so he drove me home . Totally restoring my faith in humanity . He even waited untill I walked in my door . So I’m with all you truckers go get them yeah! Now I have to wait for the sealer to soften up LOL
BYRON

 

[Bentwings]

lol hi
here are a few I tires, as you can see, there are bags of small parts. I replaced the grub screws in the flywheel with m3 she’s as I didn’t want to accidentally round one out. I’m not sure how to set the slide valve timing. It looks like from the assembly drawing and instructions you just set the pistons at bottom dead center the set the slide pistons at either bottom or top dead center of their eccentric. I’ll have to examin that more when I really get into assembly tomorrow. I have to go out and shovel in the morning. The wind is down but the snow piled up on the walkway. I’ll try and push it out in the street as they are going to plow about 9 am. Even if I get a path to the street it will be a big help. The kids are out of school. You would think they would be asking to shovel for extra money but nothing .
byron

 

[Bentwings]

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here are a few I tires, as you can see, there are bags of small parts. I replaced the grub screws in the flywheel with m3 she’s as I didn’t want to accidentally round one out. I’m not sure how to set the slide valve timing. It looks like from the assembly drawing and instructions you just set the pistons at bottom dead center the set the slide pistons at either bottom or top dead center of their eccentric. I’ll have to examin that more when I really get into assembly tomorrow. I have to go out and shovel in the morning. The wind is down but the snow piled up on the walkway. I’ll try and push it out in the street as they are going to plow about 9 am. Even if I get a path to the street it will be a big help. The kids are out of school. You would think they would be asking to shovel for extra money but nothing .
byron

As you can see there a lot of parts here there really isn’t a step by step assemble instruction there are two nice assembly drawings that itemize every part. Then on line is ans assembly instruction page but it’s a bit sketchy. The main thing missing is timing the piston slide valve and engine to engine to engine timing. This is done by tightening a grub screw in the flywheel and piston valve eccentric. I’ve changed the grub set screws to m3 shcs as I just don’t want to have a damaged grub screw. There is considerable stick out but o far I don’t see an issue. Next I think I like to put a flat spot on the cranks where the grub screws do in just so it will be easier to service if necessary . I’m going to assemble the piston valve assembly fas then test the timing . The cranks are identical but the end shafts are longer on one end than the other. This allows full engagement2 or I’ve selected the right engine being #2 into the flywheel by each crank with the #2 crank over hanging some. It will carry the extra fly wheel as well as be supported by my new shaft support . This is just to prevent excess end loading of the crank. The #1 or left engine doesn’t need this as the enginge bearings will be closer together . I may need to remount te left engine so this happens. There is supposed to be a base that locates the engines exactly but that was missing from the parts. It’s realy only needed to space the engines apart correctly . It would have been nice if there was a numeric value here so I would have not needed to guess at it . I can see I’ll need to remount the left engine . While not too difficult it means drilling and inserting thread insert into th base wood. I have a whole box of various sizes so not a problem but it also means I’ll have to drill oversized clearance holes fo the frame mounting screws. Sounds easy but the screws are long m3 so I have to remove them spot and drill then reinsert . I don’t have a power driver that small so I’ll just have to struggle along . I now see the intake and exhaust ports and lack of teal manifolding. I’ve already given some though to this . I don’t know if headers or more streamlined system will help but it sure will look better . The existing systems will be right angle snd tee fittings both horribly inefficient and double ugly in my mind. But I’ll have to get a lot further into assembly before I get into that part. Today I have a good foot of snow to shovel and it’s barely above 0 deg F . I’m going to play for a few minutes the I must go outside.
Byron

 

[Steamchick]

Byron,
You need some lead on the valve eccentrics. (A bit like lead and advanced ignition on IC engines). This means the exhaust closes before the piston gets to the end of the stroke, providing a little cushion to decelerate the piston, and increase bearing life. Then the inlet is open just about at end of stroke - opening onto the tiny volume of residual compressed exhaust steam - then as the pressure rises it drives the piston at the start of the power stroke. BUT if the inlet opens before "end-of-stroke", you risk stopping the engine and reversing the direction of motion! So a little "suck-it-and-see" if you do not have settings from the engine supplier.
K2

 

[Steamchick]

Byron, for running on compressed air.... I see no real gain in heating the air and using steam oil, that couldn't be achieved easier by opening the air regulator to admit a bit higher pressure? - But I have not done the sums... Have you?
K2

 

[Bentwings]

Byron,
You need some lead on the valve eccentrics. (A bit like lead and advanced ignition on IC engines). This means the exhaust closes before the piston gets to the end of the stroke, providing a little cushion to decelerate the piston, and increase bearing life. Then the inlet is open just about at end of stroke - opening onto the tiny volume of residual compressed exhaust steam - then as the pressure rises it drives the piston at the start of the power stroke. BUT if the inlet opens before "end-of-stroke", you risk stopping the engine and reversing the direction of motion! So a little "suck-it-and-see" if you do not have settings from the engine supplier.
K2

Thanks that’s exactly what I expected. I’m just working on the eccentrics and life valves today. There is a huge amount of small parts and screws involved . I did send a note to chilertern last night as the instructions are very vague. They did not the reverse issue but not where are how critical the exact position is. There are set screws, grub screws on the eccentrics. I could possibly make a tiny degree wheel and more precision set the timing but I don’t have any data other than trial and error . I may have to pier it up to derive this. My guess is the port block openings were not done with max performance built in, more that looks about right. I thin RR enginges have an adjustable timing linkag. I see some engines with this featur too but the linkage would be beyond micro sizes for my engines. At least the basics are sort of adjustable. I yhnkni may exploit the mini degree wheel idea. Ion my note I also asks about putting flats on the crankshafts for the set screws so the cranks don’t get messed p. By usin the degree wheel I could mount the cranks in the chuck on the rotary table and use a #2 center drill to spot the dents exactly I can see a long test and tune session coming up. My steam theory book won’t be her for another week . But I did some advanced searching and found some of the info I was looking for . Temp is always noted in deg kelvan temp usually in deg C and pressures in pascal so I’m realy going to be busy with conversions. I’m having enough trouble with metric threads as it is LOL ALSO FUND INFO ON HOW AND WHEN STEAM becomes coorosive to some material as you noted earlier. It also dissolves snd deposits various salts and other impurities at various temps and pressures. I had no idea steam was this complex. It also applies to my superheated dry air I noted earlier. So I have additional thinking t do . All this for a 5?pound pair of model steam engines. LOL A 50 puns Rc model twin engine bomber is about on the same level. It’s like going back to engineering school

well I did get most of the snow shoveling done yesterday . It’s now -10 deg F with a high of about 0 today so I’ll have to go out and finish the other side but later in the afternoon noon this mandatory exercise is killing my hobby time
Buron

 

[Bentwings]

Thanks that’s exactly what I expected. I’m just working on the eccentrics and life valves today. There is a huge amount of small parts and screws involved . I did send a note to chilertern last night as the instructions are very vague. They did not the reverse issue but not where are how critical the exact position is. There are set screws, grub screws on the eccentrics. I could possibly make a tiny degree wheel and more precision set the timing but I don’t have any data other than trial and error . I may have to pier it up to derive this. My guess is the port block openings were not done with max performance built in, more that looks about right. I thin RR enginges have an adjustable timing linkag. I see some engines with this featur too but the linkage would be beyond micro sizes for my engines. At least the basics are sort of adjustable. I yhnkni may exploit the mini degree wheel idea. Ion my note I also asks about putting flats on the crankshafts for the set screws so the cranks don’t get messed p. By usin the degree wheel I could mount the cranks in the chuck on the rotary table and use a #2 center drill to spot the dents exactly I can see a long test and tune session coming up. My steam theory book won’t be her for another week . But I did some advanced searching and found some of the info I was looking for . Temp is always noted in deg kelvan temp usually in deg C and pressures in pascal so I’m realy going to be busy with conversions. I’m having enough trouble with metric threads as it is LOL ALSO FUND INFO ON HOW AND WHEN STEAM becomes coorosive to some material as you noted earlier. It also dissolves snd deposits various salts and other impurities at various temps and pressures. I had no idea steam was this complex. It also applies to my superheated dry air I noted earlier. So I have additional thinking t do . All this for a 5?pound pair of model steam engines. LOL A 50 puns Rc model twin engine bomber is about on the same level. It’s like going back to engineering school

well I did get most of the snow shoveling done yesterday . It’s now -10 deg F with a high of about 0 today so I’ll have to go out and finish the other side but later in the afternoon noon this mandatory exercise is killing my hobby time
Buron

so now it follows that some measure of performance is necessary. I’m not going to build a dyno yet. But I have an extra steel flywheel that I don’t really care if it gets scuffed a bit. I could rig a temporary print brake of sorts and measure torque at given rpms since I have an accurat tach. It would be nice to be able to vary the apply pressure but I gave all my model air cylinders and valves to my son for his Rc planes maybe I could do a spring apply and just add weights as needed or vary the apply pressure. Of course I’ll need some kind o cake and given length arms. Not a big dal just something else to make I’ll probably hear something later today. Since I have updated my phone I could call tomorrow. Mean time I’ll get some assembly done today
Byron

 

[Bentwings]

so now it follows that some measure of performance is necessary. I’m not going to build a dyno yet. But I have an extra steel flywheel that I don’t really care if it gets scuffed a bit. I could rig a temporary print brake of sorts and measure torque at given rpms since I have an accurat tach. It would be nice to be able to vary the apply pressure but I gave all my model air cylinders and valves to my son for his Rc planes maybe I could do a spring apply and just add weights as needed or vary the apply pressure. Of course I’ll need some kind o cake and given length arms. Not a big dal just something else to make I’ll probably hear something later today. Since I have updated my phone I could call tomorrow. Mean time I’ll get some assembly done today
Byron

Spell check did it again. I meant print brake system I know it’s primitive but at least I’ll have some measure of performance to go by I doubt if there was much along this line in the engine design. It’s well done but but the instructions just say position the eccentrics as shown in the picture. Not a good picture to begin with. There is no real reference point the fit ofvthe parts is very close so maybe I can get away with the duck and test method. They do note reverse if not careful . I don’t incision running at high speed. I can see some extra pressure for more power if needed. The intake and exhaust ports are incredibly primitive . Not even Henry ford’s flat head was this poor. I’m looking into much more streamlined manifolds. I need a collector for he 4 1/4” tubes but I’m looking into a simple small press fixture to form the collector joint. Almost identical to standard automotive stuff. It’s just easier to form the copper tubes there is a flange mount so I may just order some replacements so I don’t have to do fancy machine work . They actually bolt on similar to automotive I don’t think porting will be worth the effort since pressure like supercharging is available. If I was after max speed maybe but just getting intake and exhaust flow will be enough. I’m moving my work area today so production is temporarily down . I got my lighted magnifying light working so I can see these micro parts. Also ordered set of driver Allen wrenches that I really needed. In the kit is a spanned wrench for m2 and m 3 nuts. It’s the smallest open end wrench I’ve ever seen

byron

 

[Bentwings]

Spell check did it again. I meant print brake system I know it’s primitive but at least I’ll have some measure of performance to go by I doubt if there was much along this line in the engine design. It’s well done but but the instructions just say position the eccentrics as shown in the picture. Not a good picture to begin with. There is no real reference point the fit ofvthe parts is very close so maybe I can get away with the duck and test method. They do note reverse if not careful . I don’t incision running at high speed. I can see some extra pressure for more power if needed. The intake and exhaust ports are incredibly primitive . Not even Henry ford’s flat head was this poor. I’m looking into much more streamlined manifolds. I need a collector for he 4 1/4” tubes but I’m looking into a simple small press fixture to form the collector joint. Almost identical to standard automotive stuff. It’s just easier to form the copper tubes there is a flange mount so I may just order some replacements so I don’t have to do fancy machine work . They actually bolt on similar to automotive I don’t think porting will be worth the effort since pressure like supercharging is available. If I was after max speed maybe but just getting intake and exhaust flow will be enough. I’m moving my work area today so production is temporarily down . I got my lighted magnifying light working so I can see these micro parts. Also ordered set of driver Allen wrenches that I really needed. In the kit is a spanned wrench for m2 and m 3 nuts. It’s the smallest open end wrench I’ve ever seen

byron

It did it again

PRONY BRAKE

 

[Bentwings]

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here are a few I tires, as you can see, there are bags of small parts. I replaced the grub screws in the flywheel with m3 she’s as I didn’t want to accidentally round one out. I’m not sure how to set the slide valve timing. It looks like from the assembly drawing and instructions you just set the pistons at bottom dead center the set the slide pistons at either bottom or top dead center of their eccentric. I’ll have to examin that more when I really get into assembly tomorrow. I have to go out and shovel in the morning. The wind is down but the snow piled up on the walkway. I’ll try and push it out in the street as they are going to plow about 9 am. Even if I get a path to the street it will be a big help. The kids are out of school. You would think they would be asking to shovel for extra money but nothing .
byron

Well I finally got the foot of snow shoved out so I spent e better part of the day assembling my steamer . I first filled a syringe with air tool oil so I had lube ready then using my new found cordless drill and the smallest number drill I drilled the opening in the lock tire tube. Blue. Then began assembling the slide valve connecting rods and the eccentrics. The eccentrics have a counter bore on each side. With a filler plate insert in one of them . The clearance is very tight and easy to raise a burr if you try to force things thes plates are held on by m3 flat head screws about 4-6 mm long 2 in each plate the crankshaft goes through the locating hole the whole assembly is only about 6 mm long in the 6 mm bore so fit is very close. I admire how well these parts are machined finish is superb well I was down to th last of the 4 assemblies and realized I was missing one of the flat head screws. I thought I be ordering a big bag of them as nobody has anything like this. Not even the Rc car hobby shop. I wa cussing my self out for being careless. I got up to get snort cup of coffee and felt a sharp sting in my bare foot. There the screw was on the floor. I couldn’t believe how it got there and how lucky I was to find it. So I continued. I got one plate cocked in the bore and the crank would not go through it . It took over an hour to figure out where the burr was and to fix it but som 2500 grit paper finally fixed it . Then I assembled the eccentric assemblies on the cranks. That was another issue as there is not a clear picture on the assembly drawings. But I zoomed in on the picture on the web site and figured it out. Then getting the cranks laid in the bearing was an issue. Th bearing halves are not located except by the screw threads. The holes are very tight tolerance so I guess they will be ok . I got both cranks installed. One has a minor tight spot but it will either wear in or I may be able to adjust it once everything else is in place. Then my kitty jumped on the table and left some kitty hat floating around . I was getting ready to install the steam jackets and slide valve pistons when on got stuck yup kitty hair in the bore. That’s how tight the clearances are here is a picture of progress . Every thing is working so far except for one very small tight spot . It right where the tight spot was with the line up bar too. It looks like I’m going to have to move one engine over some to reduce spacing between . There is no note on the drawing s but there is a spacer plate I did not receive that controls the distance between the engines . I sent an e mail but have not receive response yet. I may call Monday if I don’t get anything over the eeek end . It probably not too critical as long as the cranks don’t butt against each other’s. There is no note about the valve timing either either than make it like the picture on the website and that if too far off it will run in reverse . No not of correct direction either I have a reversing valve anyway . Those m 3 grub screws are so small I can hardly see them with my magnifying glass. I already replaced the flywheel ones with socket head screws. I’m going to try and replace the eccentric ones too it looks like there will be clearance for the heads . Once I get the timing figured out I may take the cranks out and eithe drill pots on the cranks or mill flats for the screws t land on so the bores don’t get marred up z there must be another 50 or more screws to put in then the operating connections and boiler can be fitted . By then I should have my steam properties book so I can start fine tuning the advanced stuff.

 

[Bentwings]

Well I finally got the foot of snow shoved out so I spent e better part of the day assembling my steamer . I first filled a syringe with air tool oil so I had lube ready then using my new found cordless drill and the smallest number drill I drilled the opening in the lock tire tube. Blue. Then began assembling the slide valve connecting rods and the eccentrics. The eccentrics have a counter bore on each side. With a filler plate insert in one of them . The clearance is very tight and easy to raise a burr if you try to force things thes plates are held on by m3 flat head screws about 4-6 mm long 2 in each plate the crankshaft goes through the locating hole the whole assembly is only about 6 mm long in the 6 mm bore so fit is very close. I admire how well these parts are machined finish is superb well I was down to th last of the 4 assemblies and realized I was missing one of the flat head screws. I thought I be ordering a big bag of them as nobody has anything like this. Not even the Rc car hobby shop. I wa cussing my self out for being careless. I got up to get snort cup of coffee and felt a sharp sting in my bare foot. There the screw was on the floor. I couldn’t believe how it got there and how lucky I was to find it. So I continued. I got one plate cocked in the bore and the crank would not go through it . It took over an hour to figure out where the burr was and to fix it but som 2500 grit paper finally fixed it . Then I assembled the eccentric assemblies on the cranks. That was another issue as there is not a clear picture on the assembly drawings. But I zoomed in on the picture on the web site and figured it out. Then getting the cranks laid in the bearing was an issue. Th bearing halves are not located except by the screw threads. The holes are very tight tolerance so I guess they will be ok . I got both cranks installed. One has a minor tight spot but it will either wear in or I may be able to adjust it once everything else is in place. Then my kitty jumped on the table and left some kitty hat floating around . I was getting ready to install the steam jackets and slide valve pistons when on got stuck yup kitty hair in the bore. That’s how tight the clearances are here is a picture of progress . Every thing is working so far except for one very small tight spot . It right where the tight spot was with the line up bar too. It looks like I’m going to have to move one engine over some to reduce spacing between . There is no note on the drawing s but there is a spacer plate I did not receive that controls the distance between the engines . I sent an e mail but have not receive response yet. I may call Monday if I don’t get anything over the eeek end . It probably not too critical as long as the cranks don’t butt against each other’s. There is no note about the valve timing either either than make it like the picture on the website and that if too far off it will run in reverse . No not of correct direction either I have a reversing valve anyway . Those m 3 grub screws are so small I can hardly see them with my magnifying glass. I already replaced the flywheel ones with socket head screws. I’m going to try and replace the eccentric ones too it looks like there will be clearance for the heads . Once I get the timing figured out I may take the cranks out and eithe drill pots on the cranks or mill flats for the screws t land on so the bores don’t get marred up z there must be another 50 or more screws to put in then the operating connections and boiler can be fitted . By then I should have my steam properties book so I can start fine tuning the advanced stuff. View attachment 134508

To answer the question on the “ super heated air” I’m really lacking lacking real steam information I have a highly technical book coming that I intend to study so I can be more informed and make more logical decisions Again it’s part of this hobby. My thought was to heat the compressor air thus increasing its energy as well as useful volume I have not done much calculating. I’ve looked at some tables and i think this is a viable thing exactly how it will work in specifics will have to be proven out. I’m looking into building a smaller high pressure super heat vessel I’ll be using 4130 seamless steel with at least 1/8” wall material . I’ve done lots of TIG welding of this it’s going to be up to how good my own retraining of my handicap pans out I have a very good friend who I get along well with even if we have difference of opinion we both can critique each others’ work good or bad and it purely from technical view. Workmanship is judged good or bad and no hard feelings. There are few friendships like this. It’s very valuable to be in agreement or disagreement yet respectful ull so I’m comfortable if he says it’s ok or scrap it . I know I’ll get an honest opinion . I’ll also hydraulic test the device for absolute safety. As well as all connections I don’t really know what to expect. I’m looking forward to learning both from you all and from the text book. The steam things are hundreds of years old so I’m sure well proven. I’ve done some fluid dynamics so it won’t be totally new as there are many principles common to both. I won’t be using astronomical pressures or temps. Mainly I just want to experiment with an idea of the . results. As I punted out earlier this started with my lack of understanding thatwhat comes out of a simple boiler is hot snd very humid air steam is the invisible layer below in order to get rid of that it’s necessary to raise pressure by temp to some level and prevent cooling then condensation before use in the engine it wasn’t long before RR added super heat, recovering lost energy and reducing condensation many other things happened along the way that others have punted out to me. I’ve changed things as a result. Sorry for the long wind.
byron

 

[Steamchick]

Just a clarification. STEAM is the invisible stuff before it partly condenses with expansion, pressure drop and cooling to form the white, visible clouds. The Clear steam is 100% gasified H2O. No liquid water at all. This is the "gas" that comes from the superheater, that will cook flesh instantly, as it contains such a lot of energy (heat).
K2

 

[Bentwings]

I like your response. I actually plan on hydraulic testing at considerably higher pressures. I had not considered the time element so I’ll add that in too.thanks I didn’t get much out of the local inspection when I called as a hobbyist as long as I was not using fuel in a confined area they really just wanted to get on with other things . Nice. Ask for help and just get dusted off.
Besides all the other feathers I’ve ruffled up . I have anew question . With a little perseverance I think I can nearly complete basic assembly today . The piston slide valve timing is the issue. I like the comparison to ignition timing. Unfortunately I don’t have a timing light or accurate TDC OR BDC locations . There is nothing realy on the assembly instructions
But looking at things I think a reasonably accurate length or position … from to thing might be the best way for now.
so do you think a nylon set screw socket head cap screw would hold the slid valve eccentric well enough to establish some measurement of moving parts? My reason is I just don’t want to scar up the crankshaft. I’ll not run Uber much pressure. Just enough to get the engines to turn over I’m going to make a drill fixture out of the extra flywheel. So I’ll then be able to more accurately drill a spot on the cranks.
byron

 

[Bentwings]

To answer the question on the “ super heated air” I’m really lacking lacking real steam information I have a highly technical book coming that I intend to study so I can be more informed and make more logical decisions Again it’s part of this hobby. My thought was to heat the compressor air thus increasing its energy as well as useful volume I have not done much calculating. I’ve looked at some tables and i think this is a viable thing exactly how it will work in specifics will have to be proven out. I’m looking into building a smaller high pressure super heat vessel I’ll be using 4130 seamless steel with at least 1/8” wall material . I’ve done lots of TIG welding of this it’s going to be up to how good my own retraining of my handicap pans out I have a very good friend who I get along well with even if we have difference of opinion we both can critique each others’ work good or bad and it purely from technical view. Workmanship is judged good or bad and no hard feelings. There are few friendships like this. It’s very valuable to be in agreement or disagreement yet respectful ull so I’m comfortable if he says it’s ok or scrap it . I know I’ll get an honest opinion . I’ll also hydraulic test the device for absolute safety. As well as all connections I don’t really know what to expect. I’m looking forward to learning both from you all and from the text book. The steam things are hundreds of years old so I’m sure well proven. I’ve done some fluid dynamics so it won’t be totally new as there are many principles common to both. I won’t be using astronomical pressures or temps. Mainly I just want to experiment with an idea of the . results. As I punted out earlier this started with my lack of understanding thatwhat comes out of a simple boiler is hot snd very humid air steam is the invisible layer below in order to get rid of that it’s necessary to raise pressure by temp to some level and prevent cooling then condensation before use in the engine it wasn’t long before RR added super heat, recovering lost energy and reducing condensation many other things happened along the way that others have punted out to me. I’ve changed things as a result. Sorry for the long wind.
byron

There was a question asked a while ago about welding the boiler.
my boiler is aluminum . I had considered steel but4130 tube the size I was considering just was not available.
now even TIG welding aluminum softens or annuals the aluminum so it would have seriously compromised the boiler. I had a catch tank explode right next to me in a race car in the shop the tank was well made an nicely welded. Pat on back. It exploded so violently it ripped the metal outside of all welds. Everything came apart. It was returned to kit form as we say. This was a fuel air explosion not just pressure of boiler or compressor I’ve never seen anything like it . I blew about a two square foot hole in the Fiberglas body right next to where I was sitting it was a crankcase vent tank. Apparently a stuckintake valve allowed fuel air mix to be blown back into the tank. Then the stuck valve caused the push rod to gall up the socket in the rocker arm it got red hot igniting the fuel air in the connection tube to the tank which unloaded itself pretty scary it’s a good idea not to be close to running race cars that use nitromethane for fuel there was no fire that I saw just parts flying all over and a deafening noise . So this in mind I decided not to weld the aluminum . My eyesight is not good but I’ve been practicing welding the tablet lines and I’m getting to where I can follow them even around corners and curves. I honestly don’t know how this is working in real life but I’ll soon find out . I know the procedure and I’m redeveloping the eye hand coordination . I can’t even describe how I’m doing this some times having the drive to do something is what is needed.
hours in the batting cage allowed me to hit one of the few out of the park home runs in senior baseball . How I could still throw strikes yet hardly be able to see the plate is beyond me even the coach couldn’t believe it when I tried out. So I’m going to give welded steel a try. 4130 is easy steel to weld. It’s hard to mess it up unless seriously over heated. My new lighted magnifying glass may help . We will see .
Byron

 

[Bentwings]

It’s good to know that one has over designed something thanks I’m really new here so I appreciate any comments. I’m pretty excited as the engine kit is supposed to arrive Friday I just got the new boiler tube and gave my son he big chunk of aluminum to start making chips. The hardest part is not being able to dig in myself. I just spend money and gather parts. LOL I’ve yet to have a hobby that didn’t require this. Baseball it was hard to keep up with bat tech even wood bats are now super tech. Bam boo being the latest. Bam boo is an incredibly strong wood. Laminated with carbon fiber make a nearly un breakable bat. A $30 bat now costs $300. You need 3 of them . Why? You can only use one at a time? It’s come to. Need a base hit? Extra base hit? Or home run? Bat for each condition the issue is can you hit the ball in the first place ? Real good hitter has only 40% chance of A base hit let alone a long ball. We don’t get paid one dime to play senior ball . We bough our own equipment, including uniforms and yearly season charges. Almost as expensive as racing cars or building streetrods I’ve now got a whole season of steam toys already.
I feel for European fuel costs we think $ 4 gas is terrible it was effectively more than that 30 years ago when I visited Europe on business. Just having a car to get around was considered a luxury. I laughed at riding bikes everywhere was common. Guess what? Next summer I’ll be riding bike for shopping I can’t do on this keyboard. It won’t be funny at all I have a Streetrod but I’m not supposed to drive doc didn’t say anything about using bike. I’m just supposed to get daily exercise. Should I live to see another winter I just found studded bike tires even mini chains. Chains on a bike what’s this world coming to. ? Maybe I can use a drone for shopping. LOL
Actually copper TIG weld very easy with electrical wire filler. This is very pure copper so you don’t have to put he expensive rod. The big issue is stripping insulation I’ve made quite a number of Rc model scale functioning exhausts using copper tube fittings I trim the excess material to save weight. Done with a small scale I can get near steel weight much easier than trying to bend steel tubing in tight radii. TIG also silicone brazed very easily too . For practical purposes it’s almost as strong as welded copper. Either is a precision process that most welders don’t even want to try. My new steamer is goingvto have both fabricated intake and exhaustz not really for efficiency but mostly just looks. Some will be stainless steel brake line because we have fitting tools necessary for connections ever silicone brazing stainless is pretty easy and very strong


BYRON