This is a 6HP (plated 5 1/2HP) Manatoba built engine not a 7HP
Ball Hopper Monitor - Casting Project
- Thread starter GreenTwin
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Is it a Baker built engine ?
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No Manatiba Windmill and Pump Co.
Recess in hopper is simpler as both valve stems stick out the bottom of the valve block
Recess in hopper is simpler as both valve stems stick out the bottom of the valve block
The results of the dog test are in.
I used 100% fastpatch, and 30/70% corn starch and fastpatch.
The 30/70 tends to gouge a bit too easily, although it does sand more quickly.
The fastpatch is actually about the right hardness and plasticity.
Using the blunt end of the scissors, either filler type can be punched and relatively easily broken off in large patches.
There is some adhesion of the fastpatch to the plastic, and so unless the pattern is struck by something or dropped on a hard floor, the filler should remain adhered to the plastic.
The dog print has some leftover automotive skim coat on it, and I did the punch test on that material.
The skim coat has superb adhesion to plastic, and basically the plastic behind the skim coat fails before the skim coat releases.
The skim coat is some good filler, but very messy, and it requires a chemical respirator.
The sanding force required is a bit high for model pattern work.
I have had adhesion problems using fastpatch on plastic, wood, and aluminum, for pattern work, but for a very low volume use pattern, some occasional flaking is acceptable.
Hopefully these hopper pattern halves will only be used once, otherwise I may have to do some refilling.
Coating the entire pattern and filler with several coats of shellac greatly reduces the tendency of the filler to crack and flake off.
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I used 100% fastpatch, and 30/70% corn starch and fastpatch.
The 30/70 tends to gouge a bit too easily, although it does sand more quickly.
The fastpatch is actually about the right hardness and plasticity.
Using the blunt end of the scissors, either filler type can be punched and relatively easily broken off in large patches.
There is some adhesion of the fastpatch to the plastic, and so unless the pattern is struck by something or dropped on a hard floor, the filler should remain adhered to the plastic.
The dog print has some leftover automotive skim coat on it, and I did the punch test on that material.
The skim coat has superb adhesion to plastic, and basically the plastic behind the skim coat fails before the skim coat releases.
The skim coat is some good filler, but very messy, and it requires a chemical respirator.
The sanding force required is a bit high for model pattern work.
I have had adhesion problems using fastpatch on plastic, wood, and aluminum, for pattern work, but for a very low volume use pattern, some occasional flaking is acceptable.
Hopefully these hopper pattern halves will only be used once, otherwise I may have to do some refilling.
Coating the entire pattern and filler with several coats of shellac greatly reduces the tendency of the filler to crack and flake off.
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I searched for info on that engine (Manatiba), but found nothing.
Looks very much like a Baker.
Edit:
Looking at the photos, it seems like a Baker, mounted on a base.
Water jacket cracked completely vertically.
The parting line seems to be horizontally at the bead, and the bead is almost ground off flush.
There is another photo of an almost identical engine, but the other engine has counterbalance weight inside the flywheel rim, as was done on the Galloway.
The engine you refer to as Manatiba does not have the counterbalance weights inside the rim, but has the recesses in the side of the rim.
A photo of what is definitely a restored 7 hp Monitor also has the Galloway-style counterbalances inside the rim.
Does somebody call it out as a Mantiba on fb or something?
It looks just like the 7hp Baker from the catalog, with no Galloway-style counterbalances in the flywheel.
At any rate, whatever it is, it is the only ball-hopper-style engine I recall seeing on a base.
I would make my base tall enough so that the flywheels would clear the ground.
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I was searching for "Manatiba Windmill and Pump Co.", and that did not bring back any results.
But low and behold, I found a cut for the "Master Workman" engine by the Temple Pump Company.
I saw one of these running at an antique engine show in Mt. Pleasant Iowa in the 1970's, and it had very little vibration.
I have never seen one since.
Someone was hiding about 30 feet away from the engine, and there was a wire buried underground.
They could somehow hit the ignition switch, and this engine would self-start.
There was a big crowd around the engine, and everyone scratching their head trying to figure out how it was starting and stopping by itself.
I never knew who the engine manufacturer was, and I have never seen another hit-and-miss style twin, other than perhaps a Frisco Standard twin.
I would really like to build this engine.
Has anyone built a model of this ?
But low and behold, I found a cut for the "Master Workman" engine by the Temple Pump Company.
I saw one of these running at an antique engine show in Mt. Pleasant Iowa in the 1970's, and it had very little vibration.
I have never seen one since.
Someone was hiding about 30 feet away from the engine, and there was a wire buried underground.
They could somehow hit the ignition switch, and this engine would self-start.
There was a big crowd around the engine, and everyone scratching their head trying to figure out how it was starting and stopping by itself.
I never knew who the engine manufacturer was, and I have never seen another hit-and-miss style twin, other than perhaps a Frisco Standard twin.
I would really like to build this engine.
Has anyone built a model of this ?
And speaking of old engines, the search turned up this cool video.
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