The interwebs are pretty worthless on this. I guess I will loctite and lightly set the taper pins with a punch. Peening will not work without causing other problems.
Ageless 9 and 18 Radial
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IMHO... and I am NOT expert, just remember something from 50+ years ago.... (Part-time apprentice work).
We drove tapered pins into the taper-reamed holes after cleaning with petrol or paraffin, so they were dry and grease free... NO LOCTITE - and "Yes, we did have it then"! The friction of the taper interference does it all.
If you want a "pre-check", take some engineers' blue, dilute with a little light oil, then after it has sort of dried you can insert a pin and rotate a little to get the contact spots by transfer of the blue. You need transfer of blue at both the journal pin and the surrounding web, and more than 70% contact. Clean the blue/oil off before final assembly. It should be "lubricant free" when you drive the pin home, so you get the friction of "metal-to-metal" interference.
This was on larger stuff than your model... maybe 3/16" or 1/4" pins? So on your smaller crank it may be more difficult?
I remember the "teacher" machinist using the lid of the Blue tin with just a drop of oil to wet his bruch then collect a wipe of blue on the brush and mix it on the lid - like a child would do with solid paints - to get the consistency he wanted. Then he would paint the inside of the hole - spinning the brush, insert the pin, a push and 1/4 turn and pull it out to see what the contact was like), paint the inside of the holes with diluted Blue (I use a child's paint-brush for lots of fiddly little jobs, but a taper of twisted tissue will suffice.
There may be something better than I remember... the "proper lads" will teach us all I'm sure!
Thanks for the question, I have never needed to know this until now, when you sparked fond memories of my teenage years.
K2
We drove tapered pins into the taper-reamed holes after cleaning with petrol or paraffin, so they were dry and grease free... NO LOCTITE - and "Yes, we did have it then"! The friction of the taper interference does it all.
If you want a "pre-check", take some engineers' blue, dilute with a little light oil, then after it has sort of dried you can insert a pin and rotate a little to get the contact spots by transfer of the blue. You need transfer of blue at both the journal pin and the surrounding web, and more than 70% contact. Clean the blue/oil off before final assembly. It should be "lubricant free" when you drive the pin home, so you get the friction of "metal-to-metal" interference.
This was on larger stuff than your model... maybe 3/16" or 1/4" pins? So on your smaller crank it may be more difficult?
I remember the "teacher" machinist using the lid of the Blue tin with just a drop of oil to wet his bruch then collect a wipe of blue on the brush and mix it on the lid - like a child would do with solid paints - to get the consistency he wanted. Then he would paint the inside of the hole - spinning the brush, insert the pin, a push and 1/4 turn and pull it out to see what the contact was like), paint the inside of the holes with diluted Blue (I use a child's paint-brush for lots of fiddly little jobs, but a taper of twisted tissue will suffice.
There may be something better than I remember... the "proper lads" will teach us all I'm sure!
Thanks for the question, I have never needed to know this until now, when you sparked fond memories of my teenage years.
K2
Richard Hed
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Well, I thimpfk that is a bit of bad luck -- that you were a teenager. I skipt that phase.
You missed all the fun of motorbikes (when you didn't appreciate speed limits), girls (when you appreciated changing limits), and somehow managed great times and lots of freedom of expression with "no limits and no money". - The best years before "jobs to pay for living", family and the ageing-body set limits...
Nostagia ain't what it used t'be!
K2
Richard Hed
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I did all that before I was a teeny.
So maybe you missed the happy days of child-play? Growing old too fast means something isn't appreciated along the way... I started work (Saturdays only) at 13, but didn't miss out on cycling, fishing, girls, music, modelling, family fun, (and even visiting scrapyards full of BR steam locos....), etc. because of work. It just gave me more money for the fun!
Tell us what you were doing?
K2
Tell us what you were doing?
K2
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Richard Hed
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I did all kinds of things to get a few extra $$. Since I lived in the country on a farm, there were less jobs working for people, but I peeled cascara (a bark used for medicine), picked beer and pop bottles to resell, workt for neighbors and a few other things. I didded all those things except for the scrap yard visits. I visit them now and get some really good stuff very cheap. There was hiking, biking, shriking, horse backing, camping, fishing and of course getting in to trouble.So maybe you missed the happy days of child-play? Growing old too fast means something isn't appreciated along the way... I started work (Saturdays only) at 13, but didn't miss out on cycling, fishing, girls, music, modelling, family fun, (and even visiting scrapyards full of BR steam locos....), etc. because of work. It just gave me more money for the fun!
Tell us what you were doing?
K2
Funny thing isn't, is that my kids never bothered to go earn a few $$ for fun things to do. Mom & pop paid for everythgng
Machined the cam ring support bracket for the two engines. I did it with one piece of metal and one computer program on the CNC. It turned out pretty nice and
worked out well.
One of the more difficult tasks is the oil pump fabrication. 0.001” makes a huge difference on the gear mesh. Everything has to be pinned because the oiling system is so critical that if it fails your engine would probably seize within seconds. I spent a lot of time getting it right. I forgot to take more pictures as I have the pumps installed on the bearings currently. I broke in the gear mesh with a cordless drill.
Some updated pictures. Working on a lot of odds and ends. Fit the cam rings in both engines.
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Good time to finish any cad-cam work needed 
xpylonracer
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Had mine 2004, best thing I ever did, amazed that I could get out of bed the day after the op and stand full weight bearing without any pain, first time for many years, I'm sure you will be up and about pretty quickly.
xpylonracer
xpylonracer
Back at it. Knee feels good. Searching for the correct Cast Iron for the rings. From the plans:
This is what is called out.
Suggestions? I need 1 1/4" dia rod. Thanks
Knee feels good. Searching for the correct Cast Iron for the rings. From the plans:
This is what is called out.
Suggestions? I need 1 1/4" dia rod. Thanks
Bentwings
Well-Known Member
I have the same plan set snd found the same contradiction. Seams to me I searched McMaster Carr snd found the right stuff. I may have called him too. He is fun to talk to have a full cup of coffees if you do. LOL IT MAY BE WORTHWHILE SEEING IF YOU CAN PURCHASE RINGS THE RIGHTSIZE SO FAR OTHER GUYS HAVE SAID THEY MADEVPLENTY EXTRA ONES . I had given thought to making stainless steel dyke rings like we use on the race car. But it means making a full set of custom pistons so an incredible amount of work if they didn’t work out one of the guys modified the crankshaft so it was similar to the full size so it could be disassembled easier making engine assembly and service much easier . I also thought about this too. As modelers we don’t have access to the tooling required but there are work around too I was going to key and slip fit it rather than press fit at assembly the full size had a big spline and a massive bolt that I YHINK a hydraulic torque tool was used for assembly and service. At at rate the crankshaft takes a lot of effort.Back at it.
View attachment 134458
This is what is called out.
Suggestions? I need 1 1/4" dia rod. Thanks
byron
I built the 9 and a 5 cylinder one based on some of the early plans where I guess the 9 cylinder originated with many nice upgrades and a lot more of details, anyway 1 inch diameter, depending on the size of the grooves I may have some extra rings..
I used 3 rings per cylinder so that makes it about 30 of them..
If you have made the pistons already, let me know what size if rings are you looking for, I did not follow the plans to detail since there was a series of changes I wanted to make, but kept the 1 inch piston diameter.
I used 3 rings per cylinder so that makes it about 30 of them..
If you have made the pistons already, let me know what size if rings are you looking for, I did not follow the plans to detail since there was a series of changes I wanted to make, but kept the 1 inch piston diameter.
Thank you for the information everyone. I am setting up plans to cnc the rings. I am still planning on heat treating per the plans. Pictures to come.
The rings are easy but I would say do the heat treat in maybe a batch of 10 or so at a time I found when I did mine maybe I over cooked some ? But I had a few brittle ones that I broke in install so a small batch is no big deal if it gos wrong looking good though you will love it when she fires up 
I want to use an oven for the rings. Anybody have suggestions for a small tabletop oven that can be set at 1000F??
