A new engine for fall---

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Brian Rupnow

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My heart rate and blood pressure have returned to normal, now that I am completely finished with my version of the Nemett Jaguar. I don't WANT to build anything else until fall.
Then I want to build a totally new engine that is not a modified version of some one else's design. Oh, it will still have all the standard things, --piston, con rod, crankshaft---you get the idea.
---I am very interested in the gearless engines, just because of how different they are. I have also learned from Malcolm Stride and whoever (Mr. Webster, I assume) designed the Webster engine. I really like that cantilevered crankshaft design as used in the Lynx and the Webster--it so greatly simplifys the crankshaft manufacturing. There is also the big plus that with a gearless type engine and an "atmospheric" intake valve, no camshaft or camshaft bearings are required.
I won't build another engine with a wet sump and splash oiling, because it is simply too difficult to keep track of the oil level once the sump is all buttoned up. I have been doing some research, and in addition to "sealed for life" ball bearings, one can also purchase "sealed for life " needle roller bearings and sleeves. In my mind, these would be almost perfect--sealed ball bearings for the crankshaft and sealed needle roller bearings for the big and little ends of the con rod.
I probably won't try and use cast iron rings again. I have proven to myself that yes, I can make them, but it is a very "chancy" operation, and even when working at their best, they don't give the compression that a Viton o-ring does.
I have proven to myself that old style points type ignition is both cheaper and far less susceptible to damage than the new electronic ignitions, but they are bulky and take up a lot of room compared to a magnet and pick-up, so the jury is still out on which I will use.
--I like the hit and miss style of engines, because there is a bit more neat mechanism available to see operating, and the real big plus is that these engines run extremely cool because of the fact that when in "miss" cycle they constantly circulate room temperature air thru the cylinder which keeps it cool.
--I would use a cast iron cylinder, and possibly a cast iron piston, as this will be a slow revving engine so the inertial weight of the piston won't be that big a deal.
---After designing and building the "Rupnow Engine" and seeing that it wants to levitate at any speed above 50 RPM I will definitely find a way to balance the crankshaft with bolt on weights.
That all for now. If any of you fellows know of any real nifty "gearless" mechanisms, please let me know. I have plans here for the Philip Duclos style gearless engine, also for the old "star wheel" type as seen on full size hit and miss engines, and the nifty one that Myrickman posted on Modelenginemaker forum. I would be interested in any other gearless designs that I am not aware of.----------------Brian rupnow
 
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Brian-

I can only imagine what you will come up with given your skills, and your arsenal of design talents using a computer.

I know the Wright Bros. came up with a gearless, hit and miss that used a double track eccentric cam or something. Now, I can't wait for the cool Autumn.....

Frank
 
Back again.

After posting a comment about the Wright Bros. hit and miss engine, I then visited the Model Engine Maker forum. Myrickman has explained and modeled the mechanism used by the Wright Bros. Ingenious!


Frank
 
The gearless evic engine by mr. Bowes comes to mind. But you have to like electronics a bit
 
Looking forward to your next project.
I think we all learn from work work and lucid explanations.
Thanks for being so very generous with your talents.
Ernie J
 
Philip Duclos designed an engine called the Maverick, which has what appears to be a really unique gearless mechanism on it, that I haven't seen before. There is one picture of it available on the internet, and I can't make out how it works from the picture. I do have "The Shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos" book, but the Maverick isn't in my edition. If anybody can give me some insight into how the mechanism on that engine operates, I would greatly appreciate it.----Brian
 
Star wheel mechanisms and elliptical cam mechanisms both work great on gearless engines full size, but neither of them scale down very well to model engine size.
 
Brian...

You're right, it is a star/ratchet indexing device much like the Olds. I used to have the drawings, but now, they are gone. Nothing new on the Maverick for the 2:1 reduction.


Frank
 
Frank--I was able to find some more complete information on the Maverick, and yes, the starwheel is the same as on the larger engines. I'm not sure how well it worked though, because on one of the two Youtube videos I can find of the Maverick engine running, the fellow has removed the mechanism and put on a regular set of timing gears. The engine does however, have a really unique looking set up to run the hit and miss function. I haven't seen one like that before.
 
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I have been doing some more thinking on this engine "to be". Since all of my previous engines have been overhead valve types, or with valves mounted outside the cylinder ala Webster, I think I will try a side valve engine. This has the valves arranged similar to the old flathead Ford engines, with a plain flat cylinder head which has only a sparkplug hole in it, and the valves set off to one side of the cylinder with the stems pointed down toward the crankshaft (or camshaft). A good example of a side valve engine is the Philip Duclos gearless engine. I also have been thinking about ignition points. On all of my other engines they are exposed and stick out like a sore thumb. I am wondering if they couldn't be hidden in a cavity cut into one side of the flywheel similar to the old early Briggs and Stratton engines.
 
Check: Len Mason's "Mastiff" engine. I think it's an exposed, side-valve, flathead, 4-cylinder opposed boxer. I think a few of Edgar Westbury's engines may also be flatheads, also, with side-valves. You of all people, could easily adapt, or design, some kind of gearless 2:1 reduction mechanism to turn the camshaft.


Frank
 
Now here is something you will find interesting. I have idled the afternoon away modelling the indexer mechanism designed by Philip Duclos for his Gearless engine. I have chosen this one primarily because I know it works. I have watched a half dozen Youtube videos of it. I'm not altogether sure that I will build it, or incorporate it into something of my own design yet, but modelling it gives me a much clearer understanding of how it works. This is activated by a single cam on the crankshaft acting on the roller wheel which shows up in the assembly at the end opposite the "swastica', and the "swastica" shaped part rotates 1/4 of a turn every time the cam comes around. The long part of the arm opposite the weird shaped part comes up every other time and pushed on the stem of the exhaust valve to operate it.

 
This is the really interesting part of the post. A solid model doesn't give you any real idea of size. Without anything to compare the model to, it could be smaller than a grain of rice, or bigger than an elephant. Part of the ridiculous fee $$$ that I pay each year for my Solidworks license gives me access to a databank of models created by other designers. Someone was kind enough to model a human hand. I downloaded it, and measured it to check for size against my own hand, and it is exactly to proper scale.So--to give you some idea of the actual size of this indexer mechanism, here it is, full size, held in the palm of an average man size hand!!!
 
I've got something on the go here. Have decided for the moment to forget about gearless. We're talking air cooled, 4 cycle, two independent gear driven cams---Can't really call them camshafts. All sealed ball bearings on two piece crankshaft. (two on each side) Sealed roller bearings on both ends of con rod (thus the two piece crankshaft). The combustion chamber is totally in the head. The valves set in their own housings which bolt onto the side of the head. I haven't got the tappets nor tappet guides in there yet, nor a carb or exhaust. Heck, I haven't even got fasteners in there yet!! The ignition points will set on the outside of the plate opposite side from the flywheel. May be just an exercise in time killing, but it looks interesting.

 
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Someone commented that the length of the exhaust and intake runners would become "dead spots" in regards to fuel burning and exhaust scavenging.--I don't know how big a problem that would be. What is an even greater problem is the fact that it leaves no room for a head bolt, and the added length of the passages will drop the compression ratio below what I want it to be. I think I will look at this some more, and perhaps try making the combustion chamber and cylinder and head 3 separate pieces with a cast iron liner inside the combustion chamber and cylinder.

 
Okay--We'll put my previous attempt down as not really feasible---. Try again!! I think this is doable---but that cylinder would be an absolute monster to machine. The only thing I see that isn't really workable in this drawing is that the flange on the bottom of the cylinder will foul any tappets coming up directly under the valve stems. Even though I show the valves seating in the aluminum cylinder, remember, this is just a layout to see if I can get all the pieces into an envelope of the required size. If I did go ahead with this, I would machine valve cages and press/Loctite them into holes in the cylinder in the same position.
 
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After having a look at the Val, an engine designed by Brian Fairey, and seeing how his head bolts held the head and the cylinder to the top of the crankcase, I thought YES---why not!!! This somewhat lessons the complexity of the cylinder shape, but even more importantly, it opens up a clearance directly below the valves, allowing room for the tappets. Not much room, mind you, but if I followed someones advice about mushroom headed tappets I might be able to make something work here.
 
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