Werowance builds a webster

[werowance]

ok, so I'm on hold for a few days until my reamer arrives. I switched over to the piston and drill/reaming on it and found out that it also has the same size hole to ream as the valve guide so now its on hold. all I can do now is either start looking at making a gas tank or start working on an ignition setup which leads me to a few questions.

1. on this engine if I use a traxxas carb, should the fuel tank be slightly lower than the carb? and if so about how much lower?

2. for a coil I was planning on just borrowing the 12 v coil from my farmall tractor but I saw a post about using a coil pack from a car. I just don't remember where to find the post and I also don't remember if they recommended a 2 or 3 wire coil pack. so was just wondering if anyone has used a coil pack and if so what model car/truck did it come from? they at usually about 15.00 to 20.00 the last time I had to buy one for my wifes car, guess it just depends on what you are working on but figured a coil pack would be smaller and for the price not worth taking mine off my tractor if I can find one that will work with the points setup.

and when I say "coil pack" I'm referring to the cars that have a coil per each cylinder, the post I saw they had cut all the extra rubber off and such which left a very small coil

 

[Brian Rupnow]

On a traxxas carb, or any other carb, the top of the fuel tank should be about 1/2" to 1'"below the centerline of the carburetor. These carbs have no needle and seat and float to shut the fuel off, and if any part of the fuel tank is above the centerline of the carburetor it will flood constantly and let all your fuel run out onto the table top.
I use a full size 12 volt coil from an automobile to run all of my i.c. engines except for one. I have no experience with individual coil packs.

 

[werowance]

i found the thread, ford van cop coil - 2 wire. I ordered one for a 2008 econoline for 8.00 shipped. also picked up the wire pigtail. will test and see what I get out of it when I receive it. reamer should arrive by Friday I hope.

 

[werowance]

started on a gas tank last night. found a piece of 1.5 brass square tube and some used bronze bushings that were given to me for the end plates. I split the bushing and heated it and flattened it in the press. will either take a skim cut with the mill or use the belt sander to even it up a little more. but first I will see if this stuff will soft solder. read somewhere that it wouldn't but I'm thinking since its high content of copper it really should.

 

[werowance]

reamers arrived and I have an almost complete piston, still gotta make the brass oil tube and press it in but other than that its done. not real pleased with the the oval in back side, for some reason when I drilled then used an end mill to flatt bottom it, It egged out in the center a little. oh well the rod has full back and fourth motion so that's what counts.

 

[CFLBob]

Good looking piston, where it matters.

What reamers did you have to get? Was it for this? (Cylinder/piston - 7/8")

I'm shopping for a 3/4" reamer right now - I'm putting ball bearings in the side plates that don't match any drill bits I have. Might as well order them now, if I need 'em.

 

[werowance]

the reamer is for 2 places. one in the piston and same size used in the valve guides .094 the piston doesn't say ream but the guides do specify it.

 

[CFLBob]

Ah! Thanks!

I haven't ordered my 3/4" reamer yet, so I can get them both on one order.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Werowance---what are you doing for piston rings?

 

[Mechanicboy]

Werowance, you can make D-bit reamer to ream the hole in the valvehouse for valve. Google D-bit reamer..

 

[werowance]

i actually have made dbit reamers and use them but that's a tiny one and was only 1.00 to purchase a pack of 5 of the same size. for piston rings, the plans give an outdated website. www.ringspacers.com is his new url but its the same guy, I think you ordered some for your new egine from the same guy Brian. I did have to polish mine a bit as well. Dave Reed is his name and they cost me 14.50 US shipped. here is the guys new contact info - again same guy listed on the plans just new domain name


Dave Reed
Otto Gas Engine Works
2167 Blue Ball Road
Elkton MD 21921-3330 USA
phone 410-398-7340
http://www.ringspacers.com
http://www.pistonrings.net

thanks
Werowance

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Werowance--Can you expand on that a bit please. What part of the ring did you polish and how much, and did you do anything else to the rings--Have you installed them yet? The recommended piston groove is .094" (3/32") wide x 0.075" deep. Did you use that size for your ring grooves on the piston and were the rings difficult to install on the piston.--Brian

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I just got an answering email from the man who makes the rings

Hi Brian-
The rings were never heat treated and do not need it. They are finished and ready to use not requiring more machining unless you want to open up the end gap more than they already are. Install the rings and go.
Thanks,
Dave Reed
Otto Gas Engine Works
2167 Blue Ball Road
Elkton MD 21921-3330 USA
phone 410-398-7340
http://www.ringspacers.com
http://www.pistonrings.net

 

[werowance]

i simply lightly polished them with some 1200 grit sand paper on a surface plate, just a few swipes is all it took. I then cut my ring grooves by grinding a parting tool and testing on a test piece first until the ring would fit and feel like I'm used to feeling on a briggs and Stratton piston. then I used that ground parting tool to cut the real grooves.

 

[werowance]

question on the rod/wrist pin. I'm not seeing any spacers to prevent the rod from sliding side to side. and on a briggs and Stratton or at least the ones I have seen the rod can slide side to side inside the piston a little. is this ok for the Webster or should I put a washer on each side to center it and prevent any side to side slide?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Leave clearance so the rod can move a bit side to side in the piston. The piston is positioned by the cylinder bore. The rod is supposed to be positioned by the crankshaft it sets in, and the crankshaft is positioned by the frame it sets in. If thinks are not all 100% perfectly square, the rod may want to move side to side a bit at the piston.

 

[werowance]

didn't have any shcs in 4-40 size so I used set screws instead, also have not yet cut the flats on the wrist pin but will do that when I switch my combo lathe/mill back to milling, and I made the little teeny tiny oil tube 3 times. first 2 I dropped and the shop gremlins hid them. made sure to hang on tight to the third one. in order to get a good press fit on it I used a broken end mill ground to a point and just gently tapped the end of the tube and swelled it out a little which gave it a very tight press fit into the piston.

 

[werowance]

started on the valve guides. first one I ruined right at the end so I had to start over. about 3 hours to get this one guide done. once I pressed it in I put it on the surface plate with some 1200 grit sand paper to bring the brass down flush to the aluminum using blue dye to see when I was flush. on the spring i have a kit and one of them is the right number of turns and size however the wire is .019 and the plans call for .013 music wire. do you think .019 will be to big for the intake side?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Werowance--I find that when it comes to valve springs, try it and see. The intake spring has to be strong enough to pull the valve closed but weak enough to let engine vacuum pull it open. If you can't get satisfaction with .019 wire, then go to a smaller wire size.---Brian

 

[werowance]

thought I would try to make a valve last night - didn't have time to finish but I got a start on it. I had read how brian handles the deflection on making the valve stem and that's also how I do it a lot of times when I cant support then end or the span is to long and the stock is to thin to get an accurate cut. but last night I decided to try an improvised tool post grinder. a small pencil air rotary tool kind of like an air powered dremel tool. it fit just right in the boring bar holder I got in a kit of axa tool post accessories a while back. I was only able to take very light cuts with it but it works. after I cut the stainless rod I had down to where I was getting a lot of deflection I switched over to the air tool and evened it back up and got the same measurement near the chuck as I got at the end of the stock. still have cut it down more. also I am trying to keep the grit off my lathe way with paper towels down and wiping them down frequently. but on that note, doesn't everyone use emory cloth to clean up a part before unchucking it? wouldn't that grit be about the same? just a thought on that, ill still keep the paper towels down just in case.