Werowance builds a webster

[werowance]

got a start on the crank web this weekend. didn't have much time to work on it but so far so good. just a tip to anyone doing chain drilling to get a part out of plate steel. move the part to the corner so you don't have to chain drill the whole circle. that hit me after I had already started.. oh well it all worked out.... on silver soldering I counter sunk the hole on the outside of the disk as well as put a 45 on the edge of the rod so as to make certain silver flowed over it all and had lots of surface area to adhere to. not sure if it was necessary but I did it anyway. I plan on leaving the bottom half of the circle on it for counter balance.

the plate was scrap anyway that was going to be trashed. it had been test welded on in several places. just some scrap someone left at my place when using my welder.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Time to buy a bandsaw guy. You can buy a used 16" vertical woodworkers bandsaw for under $200. By adding a jackshaft and second set of pulleys you can slow them down to the speed required for cutting metal.

 

[bill70j]

Time to buy a bandsaw guy. You can buy a used 16" vertical woodworkers bandsaw for under $200. By adding a jackshaft and second set of pulleys you can slow them down to the speed required for cutting metal.

Also you might consider the ubiquitous HFT 4X6 Horizontal/Vertical metal cutting bandsaw, which you can get for just over $200 with a 20% off coupon. IME, this is one of HFT's highest value tools, plus there's a Yahoo users' website with a number of great DIY upgrade ideas for that machine.

Or, if you already have a portaband, you could easily fabricate a SWAG-type table to use it as a fixed vertical machine. You can get a nice HFT portaband on sale for $99, which is another great deal, if you don't have one.

 

[werowance]

i actually have a bandsaw however this steel was very slow cutting that notch at top was cut by it. I guess my blade is dull and that mystery steel wasn't very soft either. but it all came together. on another note the bearings for my rod came in. advertised as .250 inner race but its not its slightly smaller than .250. a piece of drill rod wont go through nor will my best 1/4 inch drill or undersized reamer. so guess ill have to get a refund on those and wait again until the replacements come in. I want to cut the pin to just fit the bearing.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I warned you in an earlier post that drill rod comes in "on size" and won't fit thru a bearing of the same size. It is easy enough to remedy. Chuck it up in the lathe and use a strip of 200 grit sandpaper to work it down. You only have to take it down about .0005" to make it work.

 

[werowance]

no its way off. not even an undersized reamer will go through it or a 1/4 inch drill. its just plain wrong. I'm thinking they sent me metric. for some reason I'm thinking that company uses orange seals to denote metric and blue to denote standard. I may be wrong but seems to work out that way when I order from them. vxb bearings. standard have always been blue and metric have always been orange but could just be a coincidence. ill do a more accurate measure tonight with calipers but an undersized 1/4 inch reamer .2490 should have passed through correct? it was way off even for that. and the reamer shank is the same size as the cutting tip as well.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

If you were sent the wrong bearings, then that is a whole different kettle of fish.

 

[werowance]

took better measurements of the bearings last night. advertised / what I was supposed to receive was R168-2RS .250"x .375"x .125" inch . but what I actually have is .235 inside and .4725 outside I didn't bother measuring the width. on the outside I changed to metric on my calipers and it came out 12mm on the dot. anyway they issued a return label. who knows how long it will take them to ship the right ones....
hopefully my stock will arrive before the weekend and maybe I can get to work on the flywheel.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Take heart Werowance. I have been trying for two weeks to get a 3/32" broach and Fastenal keeps screwing up the order. I phoned KBC tools this morning and they can have one here for me tomorrow.--Brian

 

[werowance]

good news. tracking email shows I have a big chunk of round steel waiting at home for making a flywheel out of.

 

[werowance]

no ball bearings this weekend but the flywheel stock did arrive. advertised as scrap, and roughly 4" x 2" but really it was 4.5" x 2 3/4 " inches so a lot to remove but I'm not complaining. usually its over estimated instead of underestimated so I'm happy about that. it doesn't seem to be cold rolled and its definitely not stainless but it is a little bit hard. leaving a good finish so far and the swarf is long and sharp not jagged but just sharp and comes off almost as blue as dykem but the parent stock doesn't get hot very fast at all just the swarf is - I probably need to slow down the cut but the finish is so nice I have stuck with that speed. I got it down to 4x 1.35 roughly this weekend in between all the home jobs that needed doing. do you think it might be "tool steel" of some sort?

oh and the swarf picture is not of the really long bits but the shorter pieces as I was cleaning up afterwards. the long pieces (6 to 8 foot long) I was getting out after each pass for safety reasons

 

[Brian Rupnow]

It's probably a piece of 4140 steel. Much tougher than 1016 cold rolled but nice to work with. I used to order my flywheel stock about 3/16" longer than what I actually needed. Now my metal provider has a saw that is so accurate that I only add 1/16" to what I need. Saves me a lot of machining time.

 

[werowance]

slowly but shurely I am getting the flywheel to size and have been thinking about the gear and how it is supposed to press fit and locktight to the flywheel. I usually have problems getting a proper press fit and wonder if I end up with a sliding or just slightly tight fit will red high strength locktight be enough to hold the gear in place under the load of running? was considering soldering it in place with the hard version of plumbers solder? I don't want to silver braze it because I'm afraid the amount of heat to get the steel hot enough may also damage the teeth of the brass gear but figure I could "tin" both parts with solder and then bring them together? but would like to know from those who do this often if they think the locktight will be enough or not before I get overly concerned. locktight certainly would be easier to replace a gear if ever need be.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Press fits are one of those horrible things that you have to sneak up on very carefully. You will want about 0.0005 interference for your press fit. Since it appears that you already have the crankshaft gear, then the thing to sneak up on is the bore of the hole which your gear hub presses into. You are actually going about it backwards, as it is much easier to drill and ream the hole first, then machine the hub which presses into the hole to size. However, sometimes you can't do what I suggest, especially if it is a purchased gear. I use only #638 Loctite for all applications. It is horribly expensive, but a bottle lasts me for two or three years. Don't even consider trying to solder the gear to the flywheel.

 

[werowance]

slowly getting there with it. I believe I have a good fit for the press fit on the gear. it will just start going in (I actually got it stuck with finger preasure and thought I wouldn't get it back out) these tool marks are difficult to remove on this steel. time to flip it and do the other side.

 

[werowance]

well I nearly finished the fly wheel when I had a little misshap. the nut on the arbor came loose and it spun on me when drilling the holes. oh well I was able to chuck it back up and take a light skim off to fix that. 2nd picture is I decided to paint the inside. its sandable primer (still wet) that's looking glossy. I figured it would help hide the tool marks on the inside by painting it.

 

[aka9950202]

Use a matt finish it will hide blumishs. Gloss makes them stand out.

Cheers,
Andrew in Melbourne

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I was wondering what had happened to you.--Haven't heard from you in a while. A little paint will hide a lot of sin!!--Brian

 

[werowance]

sounds good. I was sort of thinking about that black crinkle paint like you see on old timey pieces of indoor equipment. cant think of any equipment ive seen with it right. what do you think about that stuff? here is an image off the internet of the finish I'm talking about

 

[werowance]

Hi Brian, yeah its been a tough couple of weeks. but the garden is completely planted, several trees cut down and pulled off, oil change and brakes done on my truck and all that... I took of early from work yesterday and got some garage time.
I also made the pin for the crank shaft using your tip of emory cloth until it will just slide through the ball bearings I'm going to use on the piston rod. I threaded the end and cut it off, I plan to use a nut to hold the rod on, ill silver braze the pin to the crank. I had planned on finishing up the crank shaft while I had the rotary table out (makes it easy to chuck up) but then I had this misshap so I spent the rest of the evening re sanding and polishing out the tool marks again after making a skim cut to get the drill thrashing out....