goldstar31
Well-Known Member
'You are in' for an experienceGoldtar31, we also would have some fun with the calcium carbide but we just used water.
'You are in' for an experienceGoldtar31, we also would have some fun with the calcium carbide but we just used water.
Hi Steamchck/K2,H ChrisV: I have a few notions on fuel: Very simply, the hydrocarbon content doesn't define the temperature of the flame: The amount of oxygen (air) mixed with the gas does affect it greatly. I thought Paraffin was cooler than petrol - because my paraffin blow-lamps would not braze, whereas my petrol blow-lamp would. But recently, I rebuilt a paraffin blow-lamp and the flame was MUCH better - as good as the Petrol one.
Butane carries more carbon in its molecules than Propane, so more (denser) fuel. But as the pressure is lower, needs a different matching of sizes to get enough air into the flame for fast (= HOT) combustion. The last few weeks have been too cold (below 10C) in my garage for canister butane blow-lamps to be hot enough on small jobs! - The "reduced pressure" causes the flames to be bigger, more "wooly" and just don't give the focussed heat I need. Propane doesn't worry about temperature above -30C, so is much better in "cooler" climates. The 30% mix canisters you are using will loose most of the propane initially, so the pressure will still drop as the the cannister empties. But initially there won't be the problem I have been having with low-pressure butane canisters in the cold. I only use canister fuel for jobs that will go in a "closed fist" - as the "power" (not temperature) of these blow-lamps is too small for silver soldering anything bigger. Last week I soldered aluminium on the end of a small length of 1 inch channel - but this week I can't solder aluminium on a 5 inch can I am making. The blow-lamp isn't big enough. But I know it is OK when the weather is hotter in summer! (aluminium solder is at about 100 degrees below aluminium melting point. Not the 700 degrees you need for silver solder!).
Propane blow-lamps - because more pressure is available - use smaller jet sizes than Butane blow-lamps - and utilise the higher pressure to get higher velocity gas from the jet - which in turn sucks in MORE air and leads to faster combustion and a hotter, more focussed flame - Ideal for silver soldering. Attached some pics (mock-ups) of some set-ups I use to best apply heat for silver soldering boilers. (I had a problem that the cup-washer on the paraffin blow-lamp fell apart before I got full pressure on this lamp for the demo! - Only 40+ years old! These things are "servicable" items though! - I'll have to cut some leather from a welders gauntlet to make another cup-washer).
Using a horizontal tray of sand and fire-brick, using a vertical tin of sand and fire brick. You can see the 2 types of blow-lamp I use (not hand-held) for pre-heating and that gives me space in the middle for the Propane blow-lamp - using a regulator at 20psi (more and the flame blows-out!). Note the readily available fire extinguisher (To extinguish me if I catch fire!) and the use of extra fire-bricks to enclose the hot job and slow the cooling after soldering.. Both the petrol and paraffin blowlamp will normally get the sides of the boiler a dull red colour, while the Propane blow-lamp applied to the appropriate zone between will get a patch of boiler a decent red to melt silver solder easily. It can't do that without the insulation and 2 extra pre-heating lamps providing more heat. But my left hand cooks inside the leather gauntlet holding the propane blow-lamp! - from the radiant heat from the exposed hot-end of the job. I wear a welder's apron so I don't cook as well!
Watch out that the exhaust from one blow-lamp does not get near the air intake for another blow-lamp, as the flame of that one will be extinguished - with gas going everywhere until it ignites with a WHOOSH! - and sets your clothes on fire. It hasn't happened to me - yet - but I keep the extinguisher handy in case...(!?)
Work safely.
Hope this helps?
K2View attachment 123468View attachment 123469View attachment 123470View attachment 123471View attachment 123472View attachment 123473
Hi, Steamchick/K2Hi Steamchck/K2,
Following our discussion I bought a petrol blowlamp to try, I've always been wary of them before. It's a sievert and very similar to yours on the left of the photo you showed in the post above. However it is a later model with a different handle and no pressure pump. I've attached a picture to show you. before I fire it up I'd be grateful for some advice, I'm wary as I have already had one workshop fire as I recounted earlier and I'd prefer not have another.
Do I just fill her up fasten the bungs and preheat with Meths as with a paraffin blowtorch. I presume that it will self pressurize with the heat from the main flame when running? I remember having a small petrol camping stove many years ago which comprised a container with a loop of copper tube on top, the flame was from a tiny hole in the lower part of the loop which heated the petrol vapour in the upper part of the loop hence self pressurizing. Am I correct in my assumptions?
Oh, and what is theView attachment 123739View attachment 123740 bracket on top, obviously to hold something, but what?
If it's like the ones I remember the bracket is for heating a soldering iron' what is the bracket on top for, obviously to hold something but what, an igniter of some sort?'
TerryD
Hi fiero,If it's like the ones I remember the bracket is for heating a soldering iron
Hi fiero,
That sounds a very convincing use, specially when used by a plumber, thanks,
Stay safe and healthy,
TerryD
Hi Will ray,Yup, and that's what the loop/hook, in combination with the little "raccoon ears" on top of the business end of some other varieties, is for as well.
Hi Will ray,
Thanks for the confirmation it's always better to have at least two corresponding comments,
TerryD
Hi,You have no idea how tickled I was, when I figured out the purpose of those features while casting about trying to figure out where it was safe to set down a hot iron...
Hi Ken,Here's a thread on blowlamps some 10 years back :-
Blow lamps
I also went through starting procedures etc (Page 1)
View attachment 123756
Avoiding "flamethrower" mode and photos (Page 2)
View attachment 123757
Yes the clip is for a soldering iron :-
View attachment 123758
My homemade heavy duty soldering iron - mostly I heat it on a gas ring nowadays.
A blowlamp puts out prodigious amounts of heat and can be useful for large objects - my butane / propane / oxy-fuel etc. torches are still my weapon of choice for silver soldering as you can keep the flame slightly reducing (fuel rich) which helps to consume any stray Oxygen - which you want to keep away from your prepped area while soldering / brazing.
Regards, Ken
P.s.Here's a thread on blowlamps some 10 years back :-
Blow lamps
I also went through starting procedures etc (Page 1)
View attachment 123756
Avoiding "flamethrower" mode and photos (Page 2)
View attachment 123757
Yes the clip is for a soldering iron :-
View attachment 123758
My homemade heavy duty soldering iron - mostly I heat it on a gas ring nowadays.
A blowlamp puts out prodigious amounts of heat and can be useful for large objects - my butane / propane / oxy-fuel etc. torches are still my weapon of choice for silver soldering as you can keep the flame slightly reducing (fuel rich) which helps to consume any stray Oxygen - which you want to keep away from your prepped area while soldering / brazing.
Regards, Ken
...
I later used a wick paraffin room-lamp on my Brother's boat that was not the typical Hurricane flat wick type. It had a tall glass chimney to develop the draught and had a mantle over a small circular wick with central air intake so a blue flame was created that heated the Mantle to incandescence for the light. The best "wicked" lamp I have seen. My Brother said it was "an American lamp" - of the type used in Westerns by the Cowboys' wives when they returned home at night after weeks away...., or whatever.
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