Thin section parting tools

[chillybilly]

Currently using a 3mm width parting HSS tool,have seen these thinner ones 1.5mm ish ones around ,any body got any views /experience with them ??

 

[cidrontmg]

I have one that´s 1.3 mm wide, and I´m not enthusiastic about it. You can see in the picture how enormous the overhang is. That´s a Myford Dixon QC tool holder, then it needs a dedicated holder to keep the blade. The blade is far too thin to use for parting anything metal (wood or plastic maybe). I use it for grooving, but even deep grooves is a hair-raising event. Something like 2 mm might be quite another thing, but the overhang would still remain. If you want to try a cheapo version, sharpen and fix an electric jigsaw blade to the tool holder, they´re about the same thickness, and see if you like it. Your mileage may vary ;D

 

[John S]

Got one of the insert type, 1.5 mm wide that pushes into a blade.
Bought it off Jenny at JB Cutting tools at one of the shows. I don't have a back toolpost or any room for one because of the taper turning attachment so I run it upside down at the front and run the lathe in reverse.

This lets all the chips drop away. Cuts very well, needs less power and will slice 2" stainless off to a gnats bollock.

John S.

 

[chillybilly]

Thanks fellas ..........js will come on the biccy run and have a look ,got a couple of gnats who need their bolocks looking at ...........

 

[putputman]

I once saw (on one of these forums) a thin parting tool that was made from a tool holder that holds & locates a HSS slitting saw with several teeth removed above the center line of the cutter. You could use any width slitting saw you wanted. As the saw got dull, you merely rotated it to the next tooth and ground away that dull tooth. I intended to build one but never got around to it. Perhaps someone else on this forum has also seen it. If not, I will sketch up a design & post it this week end.

 

[John S]

One of these ?

The one in the back ground

Made from a carbide wood saw. Extra holes added for a location pin to prevent it spinning, works well.

John S.

 

[Ned Ludd]

Hi Chilly,
I have a 1/16"X5/16" Eclipse parting tool which worked OK, but I thought that if I mount it in a carrier tilted back by 6-7 Deg it would work better, it did. woohoo1
Obviously you can't part anything more than about 3/4" dia. but being fairly thin it takes very little effort and wastes little.
To sharpen it only needs grinding on the front edge, as top rake is provided by the carrier. The only other thing that needed doing was to remove the taper used to locate the blade, this I did by removing from the carrier and with the parting tool holder held in the mill vice I milled the taper away for 1/4" or so. Yes, you can mill HSS quite easily with a carbide end mill.
I must try to remember to take some photos and then workout how to upload them, I have a few things the rest of you lot might find useful
Ned

 

[kustomkb]

th_confused0052 Now that is a battalion of tool holders!

Carbide woodworking tools are often cheaper than those aimed a machine shops. Great tip to use the multiple teeth. A fraction of the cost of a pack of carbide inserts.

 

[Blogwitch]

I was rooting around one of my favourite discount warehouses yesterday, where they sell off bankrupt or end of line stock, and came across some of these. I was going to try using them as super large slitting saws.

They are 1.6mm (1/16") wide

The price was really right.

I suppose with a metal cutting disc, I could make dozens of thin tungsten tipped parting tools.

I just knew I should have bought a couple more.


Bogs

 

[Lew Hartswick]

I just knew I should have bought a couple more.

You should have a life time supply with just that one.
...lew...

 

[Blogwitch]

I will have if I cut it up Lew, but I originally bought it to see if it is OK as a large slitting saw.

I just hope there are some left when I call again in another couple of weeks.


Bogs

 

[Jasonb]

I have one of the 1/16" parting tools below, though you would not want that much blade hanging out. I don't use it for anything over 5/8" dia but its ideal for small work. The blade is tapered top to bottom and held at an angle which gives a few degrees of positive rake so you only need to grind the front angle

Jason

 

[Blogwitch]

I have one exactly the same Jason.

Where people go wrong, is they think there is just one parting tool that will do all jobs, like a magic elixir.

I must have at least a dozen, each having it's own quite distinctive job to do. The right tool for the right job.


John

 

[cidrontmg]

Thanks Bogs, nice idea!
The carbide tipped wood saw blade, cut into strips, would furnish lots of blades, and readily available here - but with two caveats. First, they´re likely to cost some £ 15, instead of £ 4.99 (still very cheap), and second, the tips are usually bent alternately right or left, so there´s relief only on one side of the cut, the other side would be scratching on the side of the groove, generating a lot of heat, and a poor surface. John´s saw blade is for metal, so the tip is straight, somewhat larger that the blade, and centrally mounted. Oh well. Maybe I can find a similar one

 

[Lew Hartswick]

Thanks Bogs, nice idea!
The carbide tipped wood the tips are usually bent alternately right or left, so there´s relief only on one side of the cut,

None of half doz. or more carbide table saw blades I have are "set" . only steel
blades have set teeth. The carbide have tapered on both sides teeth. and are wider
than the body by an appreciable amount.
...lew...

 

[Jasonb]

Although the usual ATB (alternate top bevel) saw blades will not rub on the side of the cut as said above they will either give a left or right hand parting tool as the top rake will either leave the pip on the work or the bar in the chuck, easy enough to grind the tooth to the profile required on a green grit wheel.

If you can get a blade designed for rip cutting then these tend to have square ground teeth with zero top rake and would give a neutral parting tool, down side is that the blades tend to have a lot less teeth.

If you know any woodworkers that use replacable tip router cutters then these can be a good source of thin carbide, I get through quite a few of the 50mm ones of these and keep meaning to make a holder for them, vertically as a parting tool and they could also be used as profile tools horizontally if backed up with something solid.

Jason

 

[Lew Hartswick]

The "tripple chip" ones would leave a pip on both the stock and the work. :-(
...lew...

 

[deverett]

I've only just read through this topic. For thin parting tools I use a broken off hacksaw blade in a home made holder. For pictures have a look at

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=7600.msg80704#msg80704

to give you an idea.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[lee9966]

I made a holder for hack saw blade pieces to cut grooves for valve retainers, turned out to work a treat as a parting tool for small diameters.

My holder isn't anywhere near as nice as Dave's, but it works.

Lee

 

[chillybilly]

Managed to get a circ saw blade ,bit of angle grinder ,bit of bench grinder ,quick blast on the lathe and 7 grooves in place 12.75 mm 1.5mm deep no worries!! Saw blades the way to go ...............On with the next bit ...........

Thanks all