taking the plunge

[steamer]

No Slam intended Ryan....just a suggestion

Pressure treated is alright, but if it's wet enough for pressure treated, you probably don't want a lathe in that location....just sayin...

The comments about bringing an experienced hand along are good points....as well as the comments regarding THIS lathe..

Dave

 

[techonehundred]

Ryan, It was not because of you, more because I am not the professional machinist and just the rank amateur. I do understand your reasoning. I also started with an Atlas 9" lathe. It was ok, but I could see it move when making cuts and the cross slide was never very smooth. I bought a used 10 x 24(not like Grizzly's, more like a squat 12x24 that weighs about 800#'s) and was amazed at the smoothness of the slides and how much better finishes were. Either way this is a great hobby to get in to. Wish you great luck with whatever you purchase and remember th_rulze , we must have pictures.

 

[Blogwitch]

Ryan,

I am really pleased you have taken peoples advice and gone for a lathe rather than a mill.

In all honesty, I thought you would really struggle starting off with a mill, and was the reason I showed you what could be done with a lathe.

I am sure you won't be disappointed by going the lathe route, and I am sure I will try to help if you start to struggle and ask questions.


John

 

[steamer]

Ryan,

Instead of 4x4's , use 2 x 4's. double them up and you can leave the lap joints

They should be glued and screwed together....Then once it's built, put a good coat of ureathane or paint to keep it stable with changing humidity.

The key with this is buying NICE 2x4's They need to be straight grained and straight....you probably won't find that at home depot...go to a real lumber yard with your Dad and pick through the pile, or google selecting good lumber and you'll know what to look for

Titebond II will work wonders and is easy to use. Use drywall screws Get them 2 1/2" and drive them in flush. Got a pistol drill or a screw gun?,,,,makes life way easier.

Clamp the pieces together before you screw them together. Drive in two screws temporarily, then disassemble
Apply the glue generously. Put the parts back together drive the screws back in and add a few more. The reason for putting the two screws in first is when you put two pieces of wood together with a bunch of surface area, the two parts will squirm around making registering them afterwood a PITA. This solves the problem.

With even a simple miter saw....you know the "zooompa zooompa" type....you should be able to build one of these in a Saturday with a few beers......and no dado's to cut either

Then you can put the plywood on top like we talked about.

Build it on a nice flat concrete floor and it'll make it a bit easier.

Hope that helps!

Dave

 

[steamer]

This articles not bad......thousands more to choose from!

http://www.theclassicarchives.com/how-to-guides/how-to-choose-lumber-for-your-shed-plans

Dave

 

[Rayanth]

Ryan,

I am really pleased you have taken peoples advice and gone for a lathe rather than a mill.

In all honesty, I thought you would really struggle starting off with a mill, and was the reason I showed you what could be done with a lathe.

I am sure you won't be disappointed by going the lathe route, and I am sure I will try to help if you start to struggle and ask questions.


John

Well, I'm still struggling to come up with things to do on a lathe, and worry that it'll put me in more dire financial straights sooner as I rush to get a mill so I can feel "complete" ... but I will do my best to resist the temptations. You all know what you're about, and pretty much unanimously agreed that lathe comes first, so who am I to argue?

Don't be too surprised if in a few weeks my next Q/A post is about "help, I need projects for a lathe" ;D

- Ryan

 

[steamer]

need projects for a lathe" ;D

- Ryan

Oh I think we can find something! :big:

 

[Rayanth]

My apologies for the silence for the past couple days. I've been sick for a week, and finally went back to work the past few days, less time for the forum. In what free time I did have yesterday and today, I took my dad to his favorite toy store and bought the lumber for my workbench. Utilizing Dave's input and my dad's considerable experience, a very solid 3ft by 8 ft workbench was made out of 4x4's, with half lap joints, and some 2x4's to form the base of a shelf halfway down. The frame alone weighs half a ton, and with my weight and strength I could barely twist it, and it still doesn't have the surface on it.

The surface will be two layers of 3/4" high density fiberboard, which weigh a good 50 pounds a sheet, if not more. The cutoff from these will be used to make the shelf.

I have a local contract who specializes in stainless steel countertops for kitchens, who I will ask about making a chip and oil tray for the lathe.

In the interest of not straining the pocketbook too much, I will be getting a 7x12 lathe from grizzly, rather than the 11x26. I feel a 9 or 10 would be better for what I need in the long run, but they are out of stock on those, and a 12x is out of my league for now.

The smaller lathe will be good for getting started, will leave more room for other tools on the workbench, will leave me more money in the budget for accessories to get tooled up quicker, and will let me save up for a mill sooner. All in all, it feels like a waste getting something that I know will probably not be enough in the long run, but it feels like the right way to go. The 7x12 is so much more popular of a size I should have no trouble finding accessories.

Photos of the workbench will come later this weekend, and I head to grizzly in the morning for the lathe, so for those of you who want a refine of what it was like to open one for the first time, that will be my first work in progress thread...breaking it out, inventorying, identifying, tearing it apart and cleaning =)

-Ryan

PS sincere apologies for typos that I missed, using my phone to post is an exercise in patience at best.

Edit: very belated edit but going through my post realized I typed this on my phone, which loves to substitute the wrong words ('large' for 'lathe', etc) .... fixed them.

 

[Rayanth]

Lathe obtained, and some other stuff as well. Too tired to bother with taking it out of the car right now, was a very long night at work, and the hour and a half trip each way to Grizzly was tougher than I thought it would be at the end of a long day. Mail-order may be the way to go in the future for smaller items.

Shopping List of items obtained (I am sure I missed SOMETHING) :

- 7x12" mini lathe (comes with 3" 3-jaw, steady rest, 6.5" faceplate, turret post, and mt2 dead center for tailstock)
- magnetic base with dial indicator (discontinued item, but they had in stock)
- 4 pc measuring tool set (dial caliper, micrometer, indicator, scale, machinist's square)
- 3" 4 jaw independent chuck (discontinued item, but they had in stock)
- Home Machinist's Handbook (I might already have a copy of this in retrospect. hmm.)
- Lathe Operation and Maintenance manual(Discontinued but they had one left)
- 1 gal of multipurpose tapping and cutting fluid
- 10ea 5/16" cobalt tool blanks
- scribe
- 4" machinist's square (forgot one was coming with the 4pc set. never go shopping when you'd rather be sleeping)
- 115pc drill bit set

I know a tailstock drill chuck was highly recommended but they did not have one in the MT2 that my lathe has for the tailstock, and I don't understand that stuff well enough yet to piece together my own from multiple parts. I can order one online.

I also know I will need to dismantle the lathe, clean it, and add oils and greases and who knows what else, but grizzly doesn't carry that stuff, nor could they tell me what that stuff is... so I'll have to defer to the expert judgment, or the manual, and try and get something from a local automotive or home depot or something

I will need a grinder to start shaping the bits, and it was a belated realization that I got cobalt bit blanks, that might bite me in the buttocks I am sure. I may order some HSS ones if it's recommended. I also need to get a hacksaw at least, and a chunk of metal to turn into little chunks of metal. The workbench won't likely be finished until Sunday, so I'm in no particular rush at the immediate moment, and I still have a whole lotta cleaning to do in the garage (soon to be 'shop') anyway.

all told, for $956 after tax, I believe I made out without giving away the entire bank, and can make some use out of everything, even if not right away (ie, the cobalts)

-- Ryan

 

[Blogwitch]

Ryan,

Don't panic, your cobalts will be just fine. They are just one step up from HSS, and you can grind and treat them exactly the same.

Don't just dive in and start stripping down. Take each piece individually, and don't go onto the next assembly until the one you have off has been cleaned, lubricated and adjusted.

General purpose lubricating oil for where you have sliding small bits, like tailstock ram, handles etc. A medium weight hydraulic oil (32 in it's code) is what is usually recommended, but a cheap multigrade will do almost as well.
For your main slideway oil, you really do need to use the correct stuff. It usually has a 68 in it's code, and is called, when you do a search for it, believe it or not, slideway oil.

Do NOT use WD 40 or 3in1 oil, they are for lubricating door hinges, not lathes.

A can of spray on chain or gear grease can be very handy for lubing up your change gears (cluster at the back end of the headstock) and, if you can easily get to them, the internal gears on your headstock spindle.

Just take things steady and you won't go far wrong.


John

 

[mklotz]

Not to tread on what John wrote but...

Slideway oil in the US will probably be called "way oil". It's available from Enco...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=505-1987&PMPXNO=945479

in one (US) gallon containers and can, I believe, be shipped.

Eschew any advice to use chain saw bar oil (with or without various redneck additives) for lathe ways. Also, WD40 is not a lubricant. Useful for displacing water (its original purpose) and removing labels, it is not something you want to use in lieu of real lubricants.

 

[steamer]

Wot they said!

Vactra #2 way oil is kinda heavy for a small lathe, but it works.

I'm certain other 7X users will pipe in........ :

Dave

 

[Sshire]

If you didn't live on the other side of the country, I'd be more than happy to have you stop by and pour off a qt from my gallon of Vactra 2 way oil. It appears that it will last me 2 lifetimes.
The tech guys at Grizzly (phone them, they are very helpful and delighted to answer questions) told me to use 30 weight Mobil 1 for everything but the ways. No substitute for way oil. So far so good.
Based on my experiences, you will buy a certain amount of:
A. The wrong thing
B. Something you already bought
C. Something you are sure you will need, but find you never use.
D. Something you are sure you will never use, but 6 months later it's the ideal solution for some problem.

Enjoy. As John said, take the disassembly slow and be meticulous with the cleanup. Be especially watchful for casting sand and other things which cannot be good for your new lathe.
The real plus (other than getting the lathe clean), is that you will have an excellent understanding of how everything interacts. When something either feels wrong or sounds wrong, you'll have a pretty good idea of the solution.
One other thing. Lots of light is a good thing and a safety item as well. Lastly, you did get safety glasses, didn't you??

Best
Stan

 

[lazylathe]

Welcome to the club Ryan!!!

As Stan has mentioned take the disassembly slow.
And the casting sand...
Sometimes they paint over it and it looks like part of the casting.
I found this out with my vise.
Some areas were nice and crisp while the opposite side looked rounded and smooth.
A poke with a screwdriver revealed the sand!!
It comes off easily and is best found before switching anything on.

Once again congratulations!!!

Andrew

 

[steamer]

That would appear to be a great list of accessories! Glad you got the 4 jaw....most overlook or don't go for it and that is always a mistake. You'll find that a 4 jaw will hold just about anything! And as concentric as you want it to be.

Vactra #2 is it then! I use that on my lathes ( the 12 and the 9 ) and it works well

Mobil 1 for everything else. Interesting!

A inexpensive (not cheap mind you) will round that out. Expect a care package in your inbox.... ;D

Your on your way Ryan.....onward! ever forward!

Dave

 

[ProdEng]

There is a very good machine preparation guide available here http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects.aspx The one you need is the C3. I followed the advice offered and it made the job a lot easier.

Jan

 

[Rayanth]

I have read enough engine build logs here to know the 4-jaw is a frequently used alternative to the 3-jaw, even when the 3-jaw would suffice. also the 4-jaw appears to be an absolute requirement for any multi-cylinder engine's crankshaft, so there's that, too. Also read somewhere that a 4-jaw has less runout than a 3-jaw, so... hey maybe it will suck to set it up, but if it's more accurate, who am I to argue?

My next steps are to clean out the garage, I have a ton of stuff piled up against the wall I will be putting the workbench on. Then I'll be inventorying the lathe crate, and doing preliminary inspection. Disassembly will probably start next weekend. I am a reader - I will read the manual front, back and sideways before I do anything. Also will take a look at Jan's link, and some other stuff before digging into it.

Dave -

"A inexpensive (not cheap mind you) will round that out. Expect a care package in your inbox.... Grin"

... a inexpensive what? Also mobile 1 ... automotive motor oil? particular weight?

- Ryan

 

[Sshire]

Ryan
Mobil 1 10W-30

 

[steamer]

A bench grinder Ryan....and inexpensive one.....not a cheap one

That means look around at good deals for the best quality you can get....The tool rests should be something other than bent sheet metal angle brackets that look too flimsy to hold up a small painting on the wall of your living room,,,,, :

Dave

 

[Rayanth]

Inventory of lathe box complete, nothing missing there. Not looking forward to cleaning up all that gunk. New shopping list : Simple Green, some toothbrushes, possibly some bottle brushes, a bunch of shop rags, and a couple buckets. Plus some drop cloth or old towels or something to set the lathe on while I scrub it, so I don't ruin my nice shiny workbench.

Though upon closer inspection of my other goodies, I discovered that while my receipt says G9788 - 4pc measuring tool set, the item they gave me was a G9778, a digital tubing micrometer. While I can see how this might occasionally be useful, I'm struggling with the whole 'honesty' thing. The tubing micrometer is a $105 item, the 4pc measuring set I was expecting was only $41...

Do I keep the tubing micrometer, and just go buy another measuring tool set (or just a regular micrometer, as I already have a digital caliper, and machinist's square, and a 10ths/100ths, 32nds/64ths 6" scale...).... hmm

- Ryan