South Bend 8K photos

[barnesrickw]

Wood requires a bit of love. A bit fickle.


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines

 

[mikbul]

I cannot express how much I hate working with wood. But I think that's because I don't have the proper experience and skill to know how to persuade it to do what I want. Being a natural product, it's reaction can be frustratingly inconsistent and unpredictable. I find wood to be much too...um...disobedient.

That's because wood is a living breathing product unlike ALUMINUM. Did you read the post about Aluminum tubing, that would be the answer to any problems with wood moving. It's only 2" high and 6" wide but a beefy 1/4" thick! A 3' section is 50 well worth dollars.
Mikbul

 

[mikbul]

I had to cut short my camping trip so today I machined a couple aluminum bottom spacers of different thickness with the 8K. I should have put the 5" chuck on, the added flywheel effect makes parting smoother. I was in low range, you'll trip the over/amp cutout a lot less. Keep the parting tool protrusion as less as possible and sharpen the HSS once in awhile. I finished the part with a hacksaw because I had to pull the live center back and the stock was excessively long. I would have cut it down in my band saw but the shaft is out and needs a new seal.
The wood dowel catches the part without any fuss.
Lead screw still disconnected otherwise would have been a better finish.

 

[Tanshanomi]

Well, I'm no longer a lathe virgin; I made my first part with the 8K. It's nothing impressive or terribly precise, but it does have a real use — it's a shock mount spacer for my project bike.

 

[mikbul]

Well, I'm no longer a lathe virgin; I made my first part with the 8K. It's nothing impressive or terribly precise, but it does have a real use — it's a shock mount spacer for my project bike.

Nice work! Project bike sounds interesting.
Mikbul

 

[mikbul]

Your project bike post got me thinking about a few more mods I want to add to my bike. Here's a photo on the Dragon in street mode with the bags on, pipes lowered, and center stand on so I'm taking it easy.

 

[Tanshanomi]

Here's what the final version of my shock spacers look like on the bike.

Sorry for the thread jack!

 

[mikbul]

No problem, I've been posting to this and another thread since October and I welcome new photos and projects big or small. Looks like a monoshock, why the raised portions, rigidity? Please keep em coming.
Mikbul

 

[Tanshanomi]

why the raised portions, rigidity?

No, they're purely aesthetic (but rigidity's a nice-sounding justification!). The swingarm is offset in the frame a bit, and I thought they made it look more as though they were intentionally different lengths, instead of "oops, the left side is longer."

It was also great practice to accurately duplicate all the various dimensions on two matching parts.

 

[mikbul]

Great to be able to make this stuff yourself! I've thought about a milling machine but can't justify it for making one off parts for myself. Though there's a bunch of billet parts I'd like to make for the Duc that are cast now and powder coated but I'd prefer gold anodized billet. Also thought about machining an adjustable ride height link. the OEM is fixed. I can get a used one from a 996, 916, 748, or an ST4 or St3S but that's 75-95.00 on Evil Bay.

 

[mikbul]

Here's an update to the 8K list but flushed out and running quiet.

 

[deek]

Hi everyone,

new to machining. I researched a lot before buying an SB1001. I was really impressed with your (Mikbul) in depth analysis on this lathe.

Here's my stats for your list so far: s/n 1140 mfg date on plate - 12/2011, mfg date on inspection sheet 3/2012.

I'm not sure why I got one that manufactured nearly three years ago, but there it is.

Do you have a procedure for flushing out the spindle? I know someone, I think it was Gambit said just run kerosene into the fitting until it flushes and then DTE. I'm not sure where the kerosene will exit, but I guess I'll find out. I'm also wondering whether I should just go ahead and open up the headstock and do a visual inspection. Recommendations?

I've torn down the cross slide and tailstock for cleaning. The apron was not clean and had some grit in the gears, so that's coming apart too.

Lead screw was fairly clean. I'm anxious to get it back together and start learning how to use it.

Thanks for all the information.

deek

 

[mikbul]

Hello Deek,
Unfortunately your serial # falls in the clean out zone. We've had one person try the kerosine flush which is very messy and another, Iwire had an unsuccessful flush and had to replace the bearings. I recommend pulling the spindle and cleaning it properly. (If you run it and compromise the races then your in trouble! There a #*&^%$ to replace). It's not hard to do, the only issue is the wrench I had to make for the spindle nut. on re-assembly I have the instructions from Grizzly on setting the preload, again not a hard thing to do. By design the inner bearing is a looser fit so you can yap out the spindle with a plastic hammer. I used the spindle nut to pull it back together.
Relax and take your time with it and you'll love this lathe.
Mikbul

New Stats.

 

[deek]

Thanks for the advice Mikbul.

I'll let you know what I find so you can update the list.

I was kind of worried that I'd get the "bad" batch, but I guess if I didn't like taking stuff apart and putting it back again I wouldn't have purchased the lathe in the first place.

 

[deek]

Well, I opened up the headstock and found my bearing packed with a white grease... maybe cosmoline?

I cleaned everything up with kerosene, put a little dte on everything and buttoned it up.

I greased and oiled everything and did the preload procedure. Interestingly, I ran the rpms up a bit and warmed everything. There was a funny sound when I was warming it up, so I stopped and checked the spindle. Sure enough there was a little slop left in it, so I tightened the spindle lock down until there was no play and then backed it off again.

After getting the pre-load done, I did the spindle break in. Everything went well and nothing got hot... just barely warm.

Finished up cleaning the apron and cross slide and got them installed and adjusted. Also put on the OXA QCTP.

Next up, I'm going to put the 4 jaw chuck on and dial the whole thing in.

I really like the fit and finish of the lathe. It's very solid and well-engineered.

Hope I can make some chips this weekend.

deek

 

[Cogsy]

I greased and oiled everything and did the preload procedure. Interestingly, I ran the rpms up a bit and warmed everything. There was a funny sound when I was warming it up, so I stopped and checked the spindle. Sure enough there was a little slop left in it, so I tightened the spindle lock down until there was no play and then backed it off again.

I'm not familiar with this lathe or the pre-load procedure you're talking about, but if it concerns tapered roller bearings I can shed some light on your issue.

Because of the taper on the rollers, they tend to drop to the bottom of the races. When tightening them, they also act as wedges. When they start running though, they climb to the top of the races where they actually run and significantly increase the clearance within the bearing. Anytime tapered rollers are adjusted they need to be spun as they are tightened or they will end up with too much clearance.

If none of this applies then I can't help you. Sorry.

 

[mikbul]

Well, I opened up the headstock and found my bearing packed with a white grease... maybe cosmoline?

I cleaned everything up with kerosene, put a little dte on everything and buttoned it up.

I greased and oiled everything and did the preload procedure. Interestingly, I ran the rpms up a bit and warmed everything. There was a funny sound when I was warming it up, so I stopped and checked the spindle. Sure enough there was a little slop left in it, so I tightened the spindle lock down until there was no play and then backed it off again.

After getting the pre-load done, I did the spindle break in. Everything went well and nothing got hot... just barely warm.

Finished up cleaning the apron and cross slide and got them installed and adjusted. Also put on the OXA QCTP.

Next up, I'm going to put the 4 jaw chuck on and dial the whole thing in.

I really like the fit and finish of the lathe. It's very solid and well-engineered.

Hope I can make some chips this weekend.

deek

Here's the preload page from Grizzly. It's a different lathe but that doesn't matter
Mikbul

View attachment Spindle_Bearing_Pre-Load.pdf

 

[deek]

thanks guys. I'm going to go through it again tonight.

deek

 

[deek]

Hey Mikbul, I hope you don't mind me posting on your thread. I'll move to a new thread if you'd like. It seems like this is a good spot for discussing the SB1001.

In the spirit of sharing (lol)... here's where I am.

I found a wear spot on the inboard spindle bearing race. Not good. Didn't notice it the first time around. I've contacted Griz. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

I also pointed out to them that they sent me an older manufacture machine while they have newer manufacture machines available. I'll let you know how that goes.

I went to clean the 4 jaw South Bend chuck I ordered at the same time and found the cam plate did not mate with the chuck. The inner ring was not machined to the proper diameter. But hey, I've got a lathe! So I chucked that baby up and turned down the inner ring. Unfortunately, the surfaces of the cam plate and the chuck do not mate as they are not flat. doh.

Then I noticed that the threads in the cam bolt holes were screwed up because of voids in the casting. double doh.

Then I noticed that the mounting holds and their countersinks were out of round and did not align with the chuck. Triple doh.

I've contacted Griz and... I'll let you know how it goes.

Despite the issues, I'm having a ball working through all of this. I know a lot of guys would say I should have gotten old iron, but I really like this lathe. In turning down the cam plate, the lathe worked great. That motor just purrs. If I can get these issues squared away, I'm certain I'll be like a pig in s**t.

deek

 

[jherndon]

DEEK, I received this in Nov 2012 - on how to pre-load the SP1001 spindle.


We are sorry for the problem with your purchase of the SB1001 Lathe. I have included directions for setting preload on this lathe. The directions are assuming the spindle is fully assembled but actual preload setting is the same. Actual replacement of the bearings is begun the same as preload setting in that the pulley, spacer ring, gear and speed sensor are removed. It will also be necessary to remove the pivot bracket and the bearing flange. A press may be required to remove the outer spindle bearing.

To adjust the preload:

1. Run the lathe for 20 minutes on high speed to bring the lathe to a normal temperature.

2. DISCONNECT THE LATHE FROM THE POWER SOURCE!

3. Remove the chuck, shift the spindle to neutral, and remove the outboard spindle cover

4. Place the chuck key in the cam-lock socket to keep the spindle from rotating.

5. Using a spanner wrench, or hammer-and punch, loosen the spanner nut
counter- clockwise and remove it.

6. Remove the pulley, spacer ring, gear and speed sensor ring.

7. Place a wooden block over the outboard end of the spindle and hit it soundly with a small
sledge or heavy dead blow hammer Your goal is to slide the spindle forward just enough to introduce spindle endplay that you can feel by hand.

8. Replace speed sensor ring, gear, spacer ring, pulley and spanner nut.

9. Place a dial indicator on the cross slide and move the carriage toward the headstock until the contact point of the indicator touches the spindle face.

10. Move the carriage an additional 0.100” toward the headstock.

11. Insert the chuck key into a cam socket and prevent the spindle from turning. Tighten the spanner nut until you see the motion of the needle in the dial indicator just barely stop moving. During the spanner nut tightening process, rock the spindle back
and forth slightly with the chuck key to make sure the spindle tapered roller bearings seat properly in the tapered bearing races. When the dial indicator needle stops moving,
there will be no spindle endplay and no bearing preload. It is essential that you find
this point without tightening the spanner nut too much and inadvertently preloading the
spindle bearings.

NOTE: Since it can take great effort to turn the spanner nut, you may find it difficult to know if you have gone past the zero endplay point or not. You may find it easiest to have someone watch the dial for you while you tighten the spanner nut. If you think you may have gone past the zero end-play point, take the time to unload the bearings as described earlier, then re-tighten the spanner nut until you know you have reached the correct setting. When you are confident that you have adjusted the spanner nut until zero spindle endplay and preload exists, you now must move the spanner inward and additional 0.001" to set the preload.

12. To set the preload, tighten the spanner nut an additional 0.16" along its circumference.

13. Re-install the outboard spindle cove.


To confirm that the bearings are correctly preloaded:

1. Make sure all safety precautions have been taken and setup steps are complete to make the lathe fully operational.

2. Install the chuck and tighten the jaws.

3. Set the spindle speed to its highest setting.

4. Connect the lathe to power and turn the lathe spindle ON.

5. Let the lathe run for 20 minutes.

6. Turn the spindle OFF, disconnect lathe from power, and check the temperature of the
spindle.

—If the spindle nose is slightly warm to the touch, you have correct bearing preload.

—If the spindle nose is hotter than you can comfortably keep your hand on, the preload
is too tight and you must repeat bearing preload adjustment procedure..


Sincerely,
Hayes

Technical Service​

Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
EN #729
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