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So which project got your attention today, the piece of mahogany or the 8K?

Wishing you the best of luck with the bearing installation.

I saw a webpage that has a 8K cnc conversion in progress. No detailed pics of the cnc conversion parts but there is a link at the bottom of the page with the prints they used for the stepper motor mounts. They are trying to run a ball screw down the middle of the bed so they can still use the lead screw manually. It should be possible but the ball nut mounting will be the difficult part. It seems to be a project at a technical college.

Good thing I fit those camlocks in the new spindle, the holes are too small!
The holes in the old spindle are .096" and the new are .056".The camlocks are .088-89"
Called Grizzly tech again and sent more photos.
I was thinking about using the old spindle but it's way looser than the new one. The old journals are 1.771 and the bearing ID is 1.7717.
The new journals are 1.7723" outer and 1.7714" with my new Mitutoyu mic.
So both are tighter.
My other thought is CBM local machine shop to open up those holes and send Grizzly the bill if they agree. How much could it be to open them up .040"?
 
Good thing I fit those camlocks in the new spindle, the holes are too small!
The holes in the old spindle are .096" and the new are .056".The camlocks are .088-89"
Called Grizzly tech again and sent more photos.
I was thinking about using the old spindle but it's way looser than the new one. The old journals are 1.771 and the bearing ID is 1.7717.
The new journals are 1.7723" outer and 1.7714" with my new Mitutoyu mic.
So both are tighter.
My other thought is BCM local machine shop to open up those holes and send Grizzly the bill if they agree. How much could it be to open them up .040"?

I will never wish you luck again! It seems to just create bad luck for you....haha!

You just don't have any luck, do you? I think it is time for you to bend over and ask somebody to drive a horse shoe up your yoohoo. LOL! That will be the only way for you to be lucky and put this damn spindle behind you.

Hope Grizzly pays for some local machining....would be nice but not as cheap as Chinese labour. It should be cheaper for them in the end though.
 
I will never wish you luck again! It seems to just create bad luck for you....haha!

You just don't have any luck, do you? I think it is time for you to bend over and ask somebody to drive a horse shoe up your yoohoo. LOL! That will be the only way for you to be lucky and put this damn spindle behind you.

Hope Grizzly pays for some local machining....would be nice but not as cheap as Chinese labour. It should be cheaper for them in the end though.

LOL! I needed a good laugh. BTW it's CBM manufacturing not BCM. I'll call and get an estimate.
 
LOL! I needed a good laugh. BTW it's CBM manufacturing not BCM. I'll call and get an estimate.

Just talked to grizzly tech support and they are pulling a spindle out of a new machine with the camlocks to get it to me. He said give them a couple days to get it pulled so that's great as far as I'm concerned!
 
Just talked to grizzly tech support and they are pulling a spindle out of a new machine with the camlocks to get it to me. He said give them a couple days to get it pulled so that's great as far as I'm concerned!

Do they want the one they sent you back?

If not, just get it machined at your cost and you have a spare spindle for your self or to sell to the next person with an 8K that needs it.
 
Do they want the one they sent you back?

If not, just get it machined at your cost and you have a spare spindle for your self or to sell to the next person with an 8K that needs it.

They're e-mailing a return shipping label.
 
Just talked to grizzly tech support and they are pulling a spindle out of a new machine with the camlocks to get it to me. He said give them a couple days to get it pulled so that's great as far as I'm concerned!


The the crappy part is that you won't have your machine running this week. The good news is that you should have the spindle sometime next week or if they move their *****, you may be "LUCKY" and get it at the end of this week.

With your luck, I should come to your place and we should play some poker with our unemployment checks. I know I would be coming home with yours.....HE! HE!HE!
 
The the crappy part is that you won't have your machine running this week. The good news is that you should have the spindle sometime next week or if they move their *****, you may be "LUCKY" and get it at the end of this week.

With your luck, I should come to your place and we should play some poker with our unemployment checks. I know I would be coming home with yours.....HE! HE!HE!

I haven't got one yet the card they gave me ( Chase direct deposit) expired so I'm waiting for a new one!:cool:
 
The the crappy part is that you won't have your machine running this week. The good news is that you should have the spindle sometime next week or if they move their *****, you may be "LUCKY" and get it at the end of this week.

With your luck, I should come to your place and we should play some poker with our unemployment checks. I know I would be coming home with yours.....HE! HE!HE!

Just to let you know that I don't have this kind of luck all the time. In 2003 I raced flat track for the whole season without getting hurt, that was luck, believe me. 2nd photo is me on my cousins dirt tracker 21b. 3rd is him at Dayton hotshoe. I was plain old 22.

IMG_1969.jpg


IMG_1970.jpg


IMG_1971.jpg
 
That's me at Lebanon valley 1/2 mile, didn't win but 2nd place in my class. The boiler plate walls were a little scary, keeps the stock cars in. I ditched the motocross garb for leathers there.

IMG_1973.jpg
 
A close up of my cousins two stroke dirt tracker, that's the one I was on at Harpursville. He rode that in the 250 class and his four stroke in the open expert. Dayton is cool, it's an old horse track like Saratoga and they still race horses there.

IMG_1975.jpg
 
After Lebanon Valley I decided I'd better ditch the motocross helmet too and get a flat track helmet. Good thing, I took a soil sample about 70, got up and finished the race. My leathers and helmet were pretty scuffed up but I didn't get hurt. I painted over all the scuffs in the helmet but not the visor. @nd photo is mid season before the get off.
Well speaking of getting off I'm off the subject and that will be the last of the flat track, I miss it though!

IMG_1979.jpg


IMG_1981.jpg
 
Did you ever have any of your change gears that had an ID that was too small to fit on the brass bushings/shaft?

I seem to have a couple of the smaller gears (21T & 18T) that go on like a easy press fit. Not the best going on but a bi#ch to get off. The brass bushings are ok to pull altogether and hammer out but I did my first threading job last night and the 21T is stuck on the lead screw and I don't have a puller. I will probably have to undo the lead screw so I can hammer it out. Do you have a simple solution or will I have to tackle the lead screw?

I also find that the tail stock quill is hard to turn after drilling. I guess the shaft turns ever so slightly and the key on the quill binds. I wonder if I change the set screw/quill stop/quill guide ( or what ever it is called) to a brass one if that would smooth it out
 
Did you ever have any of your change gears that had an ID that was too small to fit on the brass bushings/shaft?

I seem to have a couple of the smaller gears (21T & 18T) that go on like a easy press fit. Not the best going on but a bi#ch to get off. The brass bushings are ok to pull altogether and hammer out but I did my first threading job last night and the 21T is stuck on the lead screw and I don't have a puller. I will probably have to undo the lead screw so I can hammer it out. Do you have a simple solution or will I have to tackle the lead screw?

I also find that the tail stock quill is hard to turn after drilling. I guess the shaft turns ever so slightly and the key on the quill binds. I wonder if I change the set screw/quill stop/quill guide ( or what ever it is called) to a brass one if that would smooth it out

I would take the quill out of the tailstock and see what's going on, there's probably a burr in the keyway or something like that. I hate to say but I would get a small gear or pulley puller for that 21T, if you have to knock it out be careful of the belt guides. I don't know if you have Harbor Freight up there but I bought a 1 ton arbor press for 30 bucks or something and it works great for stuff like that.
Once you get the tight pulleys out loosen them up a little. I'd put them in the chuck at 50 rpm's and hit the ID with some 2000 grit wet/dry & oil

Can you take the screws out of both lead screw bearing blocks, support the lead screw and take the two screws out of the apron, it'll just hang there on the half nut and drive the lead screw out of the pulley?
 
Did you ever have any of your change gears that had an ID that was too small to fit on the brass bushings/shaft?

I seem to have a couple of the smaller gears (21T & 18T) that go on like a easy press fit. Not the best going on but a bi#ch to get off. The brass bushings are ok to pull altogether and hammer out but I did my first threading job last night and the 21T is stuck on the lead screw and I don't have a puller. I will probably have to undo the lead screw so I can hammer it out. Do you have a simple solution or will I have to tackle the lead screw?

I also find that the tail stock quill is hard to turn after drilling. I guess the shaft turns ever so slightly and the key on the quill binds. I wonder if I change the set screw/quill stop/quill guide ( or what ever it is called) to a brass one if that would smooth it out

Hey maybe lucks go-in my way and you're getting the **** sandwich!
How you mak'in out up there, do I need to take a road trip and fix your lathe?;D
My quill turns a little whenever it get's torqued on but doesn't bind. I think a little clean up of the keyway or guide pin should work.
Looking at the parts blow up that's just a set screw so maybe turn it out a 1/8th turn and see if that stops the quill from binding.

Sorry about that language moderators! And for wandering off the thread so much.
 
I would take the quill out of the tailstock and see what's going on, there's probably a burr in the keyway or something like that. I hate to say but I would get a small gear or pulley puller for that 21T, if you have to knock it out be careful of the belt guides. I don't know if you have Harbor Freight up there but I bought a 1 ton arbor press for 30 bucks or something and it works great for stuff like that.
Once you get the tight pulleys out loosen them up a little. I'd put them in the chuck at 50 rpm's and hit the ID with some 2000 grit wet/dry & oil

Can you take the screws out of both lead screw bearing blocks, support the lead screw and take the two screws out of the apron, it'll just hang there on the half nut and drive the lead screw out of the pulley?

No Harbour Freight here although Fargo has one but it is about 4-5 hours from here. $100 in fuel for a $15 puller, not today. Where I live, you buy everything you need and more when you go somewhere. I am 2 hours from any major city center and most towns around here only have populations in the hundreds. And the price of fuel here works out to about $5.20/gal. I will have to hammer out the lead screw.

Whenever I get the gear out, I will have to measure the ID and see if I will use some fine grit wet/dry or rid up the dremel on the lathe.
 
Hey maybe lucks go-in my way and you're getting the **** sandwich!
How you mak'in out up there, do I need to take a road trip and fix your lathe?;D
My quill turns a little whenever it get's torqued on but doesn't bind. I think a little clean up of the keyway or guide pin should work.
Looking at the parts blow up that's just a set screw so maybe turn it out a 1/8th turn and see if that stops the quill from binding.

You are definitely due for some luck soon. I had the quill out yesterday and cleaned up the tip of the set screw and ran some emery cloth in the keyway. It was nice and smooth moving for 6 or 7 holes and then it tightened up again. I'll have to pull it out again and check closer.

I get about 1-5/8 travel on the quill. How about yours? when I pulled the quill the rule reads to 2in. Once I start getting tooling for the mill, I may have to cut the keyway a little more. There is probably almost 2in. of shaft behind it. Never really measured though. 3 in. travel would be nice.
 
SB claims there's 1-3/4" of travel but I don't get that either. I think a minimum of two inches in the tailstock is needed for rigidity.
 

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