Very nice work G, nicely shown as well.
Unfortunately, there are a couple of problems when using tapered bearings with a preload.
The first and one that should always be followed is to allow the machine to warm up for about ten minutes before use, this is to allow the spindle to expand and reach it's working length by which time the preload should be almost non existent. I do this with my lathe, which has preloaded head bearings, before I start for the day. It might only be a couple of thou, but that could mean the difference between a failed job or not if working to tight tolerances.
The second is that if leaving the machine idle for any length of time, say over a month, you should release the preload to prevent the rollers in the bearings taking up a permanent place in the races causing 'brinelling' or make sure that the machine is run up regularly to ensure that the bearings are sitting in a slightly different position.
I had this very badly when I was restoring my previous lathe, an old Atlas 10F. I had bought a second hand Timken bearing head to replace the plain bearing one. Because the head hadn't had the preload removed before storage, it was like a heavy ratchet when it was turned, and I had to have the races reground to get indentations out of them. I should have fitted new bearings really, but the Atlas has specially ground shaped races and would have required a second mortgage to pay for them.
There is also the problem of the age old grease or oil syndrome. In a lathe, the bearings are horizontal and usually lubricated with oil, either from the gearbox or a drip feed from the top, I don't know how you can ensure an oil feed to a vertical setup like yours as grease isn't recommended as it can cause 'hydraulicing' on the rollers and cause pitting. My mill has oil cups for feeding both top and bottom bearings.
Even though I have had a long layoff from my workshop, I religiously go in there every week and lube up then run my two main machines for a time just to prevent problems occurring.
John