Setting up Shop Questions - from an NZ learner

[joco-nz]

If you have not finalised the feet yet then I would suggest that 6mm plts
with M16 nuts welded on top and drilled clear.Spreader plate to foot
and locknut as your original.If you don't tap the plates then 6mm will suffice
The bottom frame/shelf is what gives you lateral stability.Gussets or diaphragm side panels to complete

Out of interest other than it being a bigger chunk of steel is there a rational for the M16 over the M12? I have drills up to 13mm (in 0.5mm increments) but will need to go buy something for the 16mm hole. So would prefer to stick with M12 unless there is a concern over its ability to cope.

Cheers,
J.

 

[bazmak]

M12 will ok if not too long,you only need an 1" or so projecting
I only mentioned M16 because if you were welding a nut on
then you don't need a tap.You can open the hole in the sq plts
with a boring bar in the lathe.I also bought a set large drills with reduced shank
12mm to 25mm. Only cheap but they come in handy and you will need some
when you get into things.I personally would use M16 but M12 will do

 

[rodw]

As said, no need to over engineer. This page shows commercial M12 levelling feet rated from 1000 kg to 1500kg
http://www.modularcomponents.com.au/building-blocks/adjustable-feet/

This lathe weighs all of 280 kg so all up with stand, It will probably weigh in complete at about 400 kg. So 4 M12 feet capable of holding a combined 4-6 tonne should surely suffice! Stick with M12 and save your money.

 

[joco-nz]

Ok M12 it will be with a good sized spreader under it.

I quite like the tapping idea. Ill give it a try on one 12mm sandwich and see how it goes. I can always revert to the welded nut approach.

Cheers,
J.

 

[Blogwitch]

J,

Have you thought about how you are going to screw the feet down to get your lathe level and without twist (the most important bit)?

If you read my post above correctly, you just screw the nut up and down without turning the foot (bolt head). Commercial and expensive feet usually have a ball and socket to allow you to do the same sort of thing, the foot stays still on the ground while you screw the support shaft in or out of your threaded plate idea.

The way you are contemplating doing it, you will have to lift things up, turn the foot, then lower it down again, a very haphazard way of levelling up. Easy to do with something light, but with a heavy machine, you have to look at things differently. You have to have the foot firmly planted on the ground and raise and lower the machine with whatever means possible.

You might think I am a doddery old interfering fart, but ten years ago I was doing such things installing envelope machines, up to 10 separate sections adding up to over 60 feet long with four adjusting feet on each section. If one part of the machine was a thou or two out of level, then it wouldn't work, the half mile roll of paper would just slew to one side and smash up inside the workings. For those we used separate pads with a half round concave recess in the top and an adjusting leg with a ball on the bottom that sat in the recess. Feet stayed still, machine was raised and lowered.

Just another thing to confuse you, sorry about that.

John

 

[joco-nz]

Ummm .... ARRGGHHHH. :wall:

I had been wondering about that. Now my head hurts. :hDe:

I'm just going to go cut the support struts, weld stuff, have fun make sparks and think about this tomorrow.

 

[joco-nz]

Ok - here's an idea John. Face the head of the bolt just enough to be smooth. Don't weld the bolt to the spreader but create a recess slightly larger than the bolt head and say 1-2mm deep into the centre of spreader. The smoothed bolt head rests in this. Then it can turn relatively freely for the small number of of adjustments that will need to be made.

Ok brain really does hurt now. Need beer. :fan:

 

[goldstar31]

You are not thinking this out. To put Domes of silence onto a stand, you are presenting 4 very small points on which your gubbins stands.

Go an look at a shop which sells Grand Pianos- which are a bloody sight bigger and heavier and see what they do. Yep, I've just had the 1911 7/8ths Bluthner Grand moved.

Not always fiddling with QCTP's and almost as ancient Myfords

Value? Little more than coppers really

 

[joco-nz]

You are not thinking this out. To put Domes of silence onto a stand, you are presenting 4 very small points on which your gubbins stands.

Go an look at a shop which sells Grand Pianos- which are a bloody sight bigger and heavier and see what they do. Yep, I've just had the 1911 7/8ths Bluthner Grand moved.

Not always fiddling with QCTP's and almost as ancient Myfords

Value? Little more than coppers really

Looks like they just have sodding great big castors. But don't know any music shops in the local area that doing such large pianos and I'm not flying to Auckland to find somewhere that does it.

 

[Blogwitch]

J,

These are the sort of thing you are looking for, but they are not levelling pads, just what you wanted to do in the first place, and a bit far away if you want them quickly.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/MACHINE-MOUNTING-PADS--SET-OF-4--80mm-dia-89347576.html

If you do go for this pattern, DO NOT get the anti vibration ones, they are OK for a compressor, but not for holding anything that should be level.


John

 

[joco-nz]

The progress continues, slow but steady. Got the lower brace on and .... ran out of gas on the MIG.

Only 1 day till Saturday and I can go swap the bottle for a full one. I just hope like hell the BOC agent has a D size Argoshield Universal mix in stock! :hDe:

I had a reread of Rod's stand build and fortunately picked up on his discovery that the mount holes per the manual are 722mm between head and tail but he measured 726mm. I checked and sure enough, 726mm it is. So much for an accurate manual! I also checked the spacing from front to back and at least that was the same 150mm per the manual. Onward and upward! :thumbup:

 

[rodw]

I had a reread of Rod's stand build and fortunately picked up on his discovery that the mount holes per the manual are 722mm between head and tail but he measured 726mm. I checked and sure enough, 726mm it is. So much for an accurate manual! I also checked the spacing from front to back and at least that was the same 150mm per the manual. Onward and upward! :thumbup:

I nearly said to double check the dimensions for some reason. I even got the manual out to check your drawing but was too lazy to go down to the shed at night with a tape measure. Of course I'd forgotten about this error....

I will say I measured everything so many times as it was a bit scary (for me) drilling holes in a part before welding it up!

 

[joco-nz]

Rod - yeah, I had noticed enough variations in the manual against the machine as built that I wasn't trusting things anymore. So the remeasure was on the todo list. Then on rereading your thread I came across your discover which spurred me into action.

Got my gas. No D size bottles so I now have an F. Damn they are heavy. But 5.5 cubic meters of volume. Should last a while, even with the projects my wife is adding in now she realizes I can make stuff in steel. :thumbup:

Gates, sections of fences, mounting bracket etc etc.

 

[joco-nz]

Found some good wheels for the lathe table so it can be moved about.

These are rated 280KG each. So over 1 tonne with four of them.

 

[joco-nz]

Got the feet sorted out. Bit of a mission cutting the M12 thread into the 12mm steel. I had to do an emergency dash to WR Twigg to get a taper tap as the cheapie intermediate I had just was not doing the business. Thanks Bruce for saving my bacon and letting me know that store was open Saturday morning! I still had to cut the tap by hand as there was just too much torque for the tail stock drill chuck to handle.

So first off, yes I screwed up the bolt purchase, which I have now corrected (i.e. bolt is threaded the entire length which means the feet will not be sticking out so much) but I'm just using the photos I have. Fortunately the bolts in the picture should have a use in the construction of the wheel frame.

Anyway, the threading has come out really well and the bolts fit like a dream.


Now I'm looking at the fitting on the end of the legs and deciding on how best to weld them. Just run a bead to stitch over the seam between the leg and the foot or do I grind an angle on the foot so I have a fillet to weld into. Views? Alternatives?

 

[bazmak]

A stitch /fillet on all 4 sides will suffice
the welds are not taking any load

 

[joco-nz]

A stitch /fillet on all 4 sides will suffice
the welds are not taking any load

So grind a small angle? Or just not bother and just weld down the seam? Sorry, not too sure exactly what you meant. :hDe:

 

[goldstar31]

Found some good wheels for the lathe table so it can be moved about

These are rated 280KG each. So over 1 tonne with four of them.

View attachment 84692

Mine was £50 which included the frame /stand for the little Myford ML10 and recently the same supplier was/is selling bases with the same wheels for £15.

OK, I have add the M12 malarkey-studding and nuts, obtained from my usual tin pot el cheapo source.

Hardly worth digging the Mig out

Now I have the 6 station turret for the other Myford. Meantime, I have two charity audits ahead - one today.

I suppose it is a way to keep one's fingers out of the old perineum

TTFN

Norman

 

[joco-nz]

Mine was £50 which included the frame /stand for the little Myford ML10 and recently the same supplier was/is selling bases with the same wheels for £15.

OK, I have add the M12 malarkey-studding and nuts, obtained from my usual tin pot el cheapo source.

Hardly worth digging the Mig out

Now I have the 6 station turret for the other Myford. Meantime, I have two charity audits ahead - one today.

I suppose it is a way to keep one's fingers out of the old perineum

TTFN

Norman

Cool - sounds like you having fun. I'm enjoying playing with the MIG and looking for any excuse to use it. I have my hammer ... everything is a nail. ;-)

 

[goldstar31]

Cool - sounds like you having fun. I'm enjoying playing with the MIG and looking for any excuse to use it. I have my hammer ... everything is a nail. ;-)

My Mig cost all of £30- after I repaired it or rescued it from the scrap man.
you chose!

The hammer- my best one, was stolen by my son. His excuse is that his grandfather made it on the anvil- sometime in the war.

Which war is anyone's guess, I know that he set fire to a horse in one.

At least, I know where the rather different approach comes from:hDe: