Selection of Steel to use

[Fireguy976]

Greetings all,

I am looking at placing an order for materials for my personal inventory.

The supplier I am looking at using has a huge variety of steel to choose from.

1137, 11L37, 12L14, 1215, 11L41, 1144

I know their are people here with years of experience, so /I'm looking for advice.

My intension for all these metals are for the general purpose of mill work and lathe word for making small engine projects, and others.

I know many many people us the 12L14 because of its lead content and super easy of machining.

But, should I have other types on hand if I want to make add ons to the lathe and mill? or when shafts are needed? or for pistons? etc,etc
i.e. tooling for the lathe and mill (modified tap and die holders,)

Im willing to do one big purchase to get me started.

My framer once told me, better to be looking at it than looking for it.

Thanks in advance
KJ

 

[Vietti]

I'm big fan of stress proof steel and drill rod for many projects.

 

[ninefinger]

Yes to 12L14 for simple low stress machined parts. 1144 is great for things that might see higher stress like a crankshaft and it too does machine well, and can be surface (case) hardened if needed. Also, remember that 12L14 doesn't like to weld so if that comes into the equation then a regular lead free steel (maybe the 1215 you list) is in order. Things like die holders can very easily be made from the 12L14 as I would consider it low stress, but if you want to make it look pretty with bluing I don't know how well it takes that.

I've been building up my inventory of stock, but doing it by buying extra when I need it for whatever I'm making. Need an inch, buy 6ft. Its relatively cheap to stock up on the smaller diameters - up to say 3/4" but after that it starts to get kinda pricey to buy it for just in case...especially if you want all sorts of variety in grades. Also, don't forget to properly label it when you get it. A paint marker I find is best, write on it several times along its length. Tags fall off with time...

 

[ChazzC]

Yes to 12L14 for simple low stress machined parts. 1144 is great for things that might see higher stress like a crankshaft and it too does machine well, and can be surface (case) hardened if needed. Also, remember that 12L14 doesn't like to weld so if that comes into the equation then a regular lead free steel (maybe the 1215 you list) is in order. Things like die holders can very easily be made from the 12L14 as I would consider it low stress, but if you want to make it look pretty with bluing I don't know how well it takes that.

I've been building up my inventory of stock, but doing it by buying extra when I need it for whatever I'm making. Need an inch, buy 6ft. Its relatively cheap to stock up on the smaller diameters - up to say 3/4" but after that it starts to get kinda pricey to buy it for just in case...especially if you want all sorts of variety in grades. Also, don't forget to properly label it when you get it. A paint marker I find is best, write on it several times along its length. Tags fall off with time...

I’ve had good results cold bluing 12L14, cleaning with detergent & Acetone, then warming the parts prior to submerging in the cold blue solution.

 

[Fireguy976]

Thank you all for your replies and support.
Where I'm moving to is out in the country, with no major cities or metal suppliers for a 3 hour drive.
So while I can,,, that's why I want to stock up.

So 12L14 ill get in a variety of sizes in round and square..... Maybe ill skip the very small sizes in round, wont need it for shafts if im using the 1144

Ill get 1144 mostly in round stock and use it mostly for rotating pieces.

I will also get some drill rod, not sure what sizes yet,,,,,, any help appreciated. (OK so what grade is drill rod??) Is getting drill rod and... 1144 round stock duplicating supplies?

Again,
thanks all,
love this forum

 

[ChazzC]

So 12L14 ill get in a variety of sizes in round and square..... Maybe ill skip the very small sizes in round, wont need it for shafts if im using the 1144


Again,
thanks all,
love this forum

I get most of my 12L14 stock from Oakland Steel on eBay (SteelDawg9061); they have good prices, will combine shipping (it's amazing what they can get into flat rate packages) and have a good range of sizes/shapes. I recommend getting a wide assortment of sizes, even smaller diameter rod as it's handy having something close to size for odds & ends. Good to see you are also looking at square stock, as it is sometimes hard to find.

OnLine Metals is also good; they have $8.99 flat rate shipping on rod & bar up t 36" lengths and less than 50 lbs.

I have a local shop that will let me scrounge there off-cut rack for larger squares (I even have some 2-1/2" & 3" pieces for planned projects that they sawed to rough length for me), so checking local small shops where you currently are located is also worthwhile: even if they charge you, they may have larger stock than you will be able to afford elsewhere.

Here are some special purpose (10-32 & 1/4-20; sized to fit my Mini-Mill Table and 4" x 5" Tilting Table) T-Slot nuts I made last year from 12L14 and cold blued:

Good luck!

 

[awake]

I am not an expert, so take this for what it is worth, but as I have understood it, "drill rod" (or "sliver steel" on the other side of the pond) is basically a generic name for tool steel; I think it most often is used for O1 (oil hardening), but I've also seen W2 described as drill rod. These are but a couple of a vast array of tool steels, each of which has advantages and disadvantages over the others. O1 and W2 are some of the least expensive; both can get quite hard (66 or more HRC). Either could be used to make knives; either could be used to make limited-use / low-heat tooling (particular for cutting brass or aluminum, but I have made tooling to cut steel in very short, low speed runs from W2). If you are thinking about making much in the way of tooling, you might want to look at A2 or D2, both of which are air-quenching and less prone to warping and cracking.

You can get a decent overview of some of the many varieties of tool steels on wikipedia; in addition to searching for "tool steel," you might search for "blade steel" or "blade materials."

1144 by contrast is a medium-carbon steel. It generally is sold in a semi-hardened state, something like 16 HRC; I think it can be hardened up to about 30 HRC. It has sulfur in it, increasing its machinability but decreasing its weldability. It is a great material for shafts, because it can easily be turned without annealing, producing a somewhat hard and stable result. But it is not a tool steel!

Again, not an expert, so please filter all of the above through a salt crystal or two ...

 

[fltenwheeler]

I use 1144 stress proof steel for most of my parts. It machines great. For my high stress parts I use 4140HT. I build 1/8 scale steam locomotives.

One thing that you did not mention was what machine tools you have. My 14” lathe has a 3hp motor and my mill has a 2hp motor. I am to a point that I use mostly Carbide cutters. I use inserts on the lathe and face mills for the mill. I also use carbide end mills. The best way to not break tools is to use a power feed.

Tim

 

[Chiptosser]

If you have the chance to use A2 or D2 give it a chance, you'll like it.
It machines much nicer than O1 or W1 has a higher chrome and nickel content. As mentioned previously way less chance of warpage, no water or oil quench. Does not rust as easily because of the chrome percentage. To me, it is easier to heat treat.

 

[ShopShoe]

Fireguy976,

I generally do what ninefinger does: Buy extra when buying for a project, then have stock on hand for whatever comes next.

I also follow what's happening here and elsewhere and get materials I have not yet used from time to time as my needs and experiences change. I know I'll end up with a bunch of pieces and a problem keeping track of them, but my work gets better and I become "ready" for new adventures.

--ShopShoe

 

[Fireguy976]

Thanks everyone,
my list is getting bigger,

Shoeshop, where do you get your materials from.?

again thanks all,

KJ

 

[Bentwings]

I keep a couple pieces of air gardening tool steel around as it is easier to tempt or soften just a little it will make a lathe tool or even a boring bar. Actually standard tool blanks can be machined with carbide end mills but you have to have a very ridged set up and short stick out on the mill cutter don’t bother with small cutters unless you get very high quality ones. Not dremel ones LOL

 

[Bentwings]

I have a few pieces of 4230 and 4240 moly steels for very tough parts my son has more in his hot rod shop it’s tough to machine on small lathe or mill

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I use hot rolled steel for non critical parts, aluminum, cold rolled steel (Which I have difficulty getting a good finish on in my lathe), 1144 stress proof for crankshafts, brass for bling, and grey cast iron for cylinders or cylinder liners. If a part needs to be hardened I use 02 steel which can be hardened by heating to cherry red and then quenching in oil.

 

[Longboy]

I have been using 12L14 steel for valves , shafting, crank webs and flywheels for the steel parts on my engines for about three years now. Cuts as clean as brass and the material seems easier and less stressful for the mini lathe and mini mill tooling and components.

 

[ShopShoe]

fireguy976,

I buy most of my "known" materials from OnlineMetals and McMaster-Carr. Drill Rod and other tool steels usually gets added to orders of tooling, cutters, etc. from companies like MSC and Travers. Usual disclaimer: I have no relationship with any of these places other than customer.

The "mystery metal" local sources include hardware stores, lumber yards, and fabrication shops. I have also asked for objects from auto shops and plumbers that I think I can put to use. (I.E.: cast iron from brake cylinders and "black pipe" fittings.)

--ShopShoe

 

[Shopgeezer]

I use hot rolled steel for non critical parts, aluminum, cold rolled steel (Which I have difficulty getting a good finish on in my lathe), 1144 stress proof for crankshafts, brass for bling, and grey cast iron for cylinders or cylinder liners. If a part needs to be hardened I use 02 steel which can be hardened by heating to cherry red and then quenching in oil.

Our old machining instructor would use nothing but stressproof steel on a lathe. He brought cutoffs from his commercial shop for the students. It was nice stuff but he complained that it was getting rare. These days I can’t find it anywhere. None of the local commercial suppliers have it. Where are you getting yours?

 

[ninefinger]

Majority of time I get my metal from these guys Metal Pros - Small Quantity Metal Shop|Online Pricing and Availability as they are local to me and seem to carry the 1144 but once in a while I simply get stuff from Mcmaster-Carr as its actually cheaper or more readily available ot I'm just placing an order with them anyways and can bundle it in.

 

[bdrmachine]

If I have learned anything in my years of machining it is, shop around. There are a hand full of metal suppliers I purchase from. They are all within 20 miles of each other. I find it typical to see $100 difference in pricing on small orders. And it varies, today one supplier is cheapest while tomorrow they are outrageous.

 

[steveastrouk]

Midwest metals for pricing- and often range. - my favourite personal choice.

Online Metals, for fast shipping- use them for my professional R+D shop. Expensive though.