Rotory table ??

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V 45

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If you wanted to buy a horizontal/ vertical rotary table in a 6 inch version. Which one would you buy and why ?? I have been looking around catalogs and the net. Is there a better brand than others? What accessory's would you want it to come with ?

Thanx again,
V 45
 
V,
Are you in the US? What budget did you have in mind?

Bill
 
I have an Enco, but I must say that it's a very old Enco, probably late 70's. It is an excellent table, smooth action, nicely finished, uniform number stampings etc. As far as how good they are today I can't say. With import stuff you take your chances.
One thing I would ask is what your intentions for purchasing would be. If you are going to use it as an all around tool for radiusing pats and possibly cutting gears then I would go for the tailstock and possibly the spacer plates although with Marv's program you can use the degree divisions just as well.
I would consider buying the largest one that your machine will handle as the smaller ones get real fiddly about trying to clamp larger pieces down. Some fellows add a larger plate to the smaller tables to increase the size capacity.
gbritnell
 
I think what you want to make will drive the decision. If you want to do a lot of mill contouring, a R/T is a good thing. If you want to do more mundane tasks, like dividing anything by a given number, like a hex shape, gears, splines, bolt hole circles, then a dividing head or any one of a number of division devices generally becomes much more useful.

For example, let's say you want a 28 tooth gear, a simple round number. 360 degrees divided by 28 = 12.8571. Now you have to determine the angular position for each cut, determine degrees, minutes, seconds, and this is going to be a nightmare, although possible. Whereas with a dividing head, it becomes simplicity.

Anyway, it's up to you. As for quality R/T's, a used Yuasa would be a winner. R/T's are simple devices, and if the imports are even modestly well built, you can probably work well with one.
 
Swede said:
For example, let's say you want a 28 tooth gear, a simple round number. 360 degrees divided by 28 = 12.8571. Now you have to determine the angular position for each cut, determine degrees, minutes, seconds, and this is going to be a nightmare ...

Naaah, piece of cake...

Code:
Number of divisions = 28 

DIVISION   degdec   deg   min   sec
    0   0.0000    0    0    0
    1   12.8571   12   51   26
    2   25.7143   25   42   51
    3   38.5714   38   34   17
    4   51.4286   51   25   43
    5   64.2857   64   17    9
    6   77.1429   77    8   34
    7   90.0000   90    0    0
    8  102.8571   102   51   26
    9  115.7143   115   42   51
   10  128.5714   128   34   17
   11  141.4286   141   25   43
   12  154.2857   154   17    9
   13  167.1429   167    8   34
   14  180.0000   180    0    0
   15  192.8571   192   51   26
   16  205.7143   205   42   51
   17  218.5714   218   34   17
   18  231.4286   231   25   43
   19  244.2857   244   17    9
   20  257.1429   257    8   34
   21  270.0000   270    0    0
   22  282.8571   282   51   26
   23  295.7143   295   42   51
   24  308.5714   308   34   17
   25  321.4286   321   25   43
   26  334.2857   334   17    9
   27  347.1429   347    8   34
   28  360.0000    0    0    0
 
I'm not disputing it can be done... just that it is a bit of a PITA, especially when you have to do multiple passes. ;D
 
I bought an 8" Phase II horizontal/vertical table with matching tail stock and chuck about 8 months ago. I have used the RT a lot since then. If I were to redo the decision, I would have no qualms with getting the same table again, though the quality and precision is not overly thrilling. I would also seriously consider an 8" South Bend or similar Asian made ones where the base does not extend past the sides, as my mill can fit an 8” table just fine, but there have been a couple times where I’ve had real estate issues accommodating the roughly 10” wide base.

For a RT, I think you should pay attention to the number of hold down slots relative to flat surface areas. Mine has 6 T-slots, which is sometimes a challenge, but 8 slots might result in the flat surface areas being too small. As pointed out by others, get the biggest RT that will fit your mill. When considering maximum size, factor in any extra room the side of the base requires too when using a short cutter at the centre of the table.

The chuck and tail stock that I received were ok, but I've only used the chuck twice and never used the tail stock. The chuck takes up way too much vertical height, which I partially mitigated by removing the removable portions of the jaws. I have never used my RT in the vertical position, which would almost certainly require the tail stock, as you can't get smaller cutters close to the table centre in this configuration.

In use, I have found that I use the RT heavily for profiling, curved parts, and other horizontal degree type operations that require working generally with flat stock. For all other work, it quickly became apparent to me that a dedicated dividing head would be far more useful. I recently acquired a very good dividing head with tail stock and plates that fits all the chucks, back plates and collets I use on the lathe, and that has turned out to work out way better than a RT for working with smaller parts, any non-horizontal operations, and any dividing type operations. The RT and dividing head get about equal use now and I would not want to do without either.

I personally wouldn't bother getting plates for a RT unless dollars are very tight. With programs like Marv’s, or with a quickly built spreadsheet, you can come up with a list of angles for any number of divisions you desire. if you want handy dividing needs, a dedicated dividing head with a 4:1 or if you must a 40:1 ratio would seem a wise investment. Using dividing plates on RT with 72 or more to one ratio would seem to be a kludge that leaves you counting/cranking way too much – I’d personally use a spreadsheet to compute angles before I’d go that route.

At the end of the day, your budget, needs, and size of your mill may have you going in a very different direction that myself or others.

Robin
 
Mine's a 6" Vertex - (Taiwan) 2MT centre, 4 slots and I bought the dividing plate set to go with it.

Not cheap but neither was it terribly expensive and I'm very happy with it.

It has lash adjustment and you can drop the worm out of engagement if you don't want to crank your arm off.

Smooth accurate and robust.

I get more use out of it than I originally anticipated.

Ken
 
V 45 said:
If you wanted to buy a horizontal/ vertical rotary table in a 6 inch version. Which one would you buy and why ?? I have been looking around catalogs and the net. Is there a better brand than others? What accessory's would you want it to come with ?

Thanx again,
V 45

If you want an import one which just about anyone uses, then Vertex of Taiwan seem to have a good reputation for accuracy and quality. I have 4" version of a rotary table from the Arc Euro Trade in the UK which is not bad but by no means cheap, I believe that LMS have a 6" version of this table in the US.
Here is the link; http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2329

You get what you pay for in the end.

Regards,
A.G
 
I bought a 6" rt from Grizzly some years ago, which turns out to be the ubiquitous Vertex. I like it and would buy it again.
 
Ha, Lenman thats the same rotary table I have but the table itself is only 4 inches. How is the diameter measured from the base or the table. If it is the table mine is a 4 inch.

Don
 
Thank you all for the replies !! I have a G0704 (BF 20) mill, I'm in PA...stateside. I want to make static and running motors (eventually...when skill level increases). Reason for a 6 in version is size of my mill. I would like to get a R/T now when funds allow and not to buy the wrong one just to get another later when level increases !! Would like to be able to cut gears and make all kinds of objects my lil brain will come up with !! I'm super fascinated with this whole realm of machining and wish I had gottin into it sooner. I have played around with lathes and a buddies mill once in awhile....now I have my own and just want to create and make things for myself !! If that makes sense ??
Had looked at the Grizzly version with all attachments and also the Phase II (where are they made ?..phase 2) from LMS with the bells and whistles. Haven't seen to many on the bay site that didn't cost more with getting less that my knowledge see's. Not sure of the tail stock if bought separate to be compatible. Again...glad this site is here with the wealth of knowledge available to absorb !!
V 45
 
V45

Usually, the Vertex tailstock has so much up/down adjustment, it is compatible with both the 4" and 6" version.

People tend to buy what will actually fit onto their table, but usually you can go at least one size oversize and have it hanging over the edge. As long as you can clamp into the t-slots, it is usually OK.
On my machine, my vice actually overhangs the front of the table by half the length of the vice. If I went for one that fitted only on the table, it would be a 3", whereas I use a 6" vice.

This is a normal practice.


John
 
A couple of self explanatory photos - I often take my 3 or 4 jaw lathe chuck over to the RT (often with turned part in it.)

I like to have a little float in the adaptor plate (bolt clearance) as this allows me to clock it.

rtadapt.jpg


rtmtg1.jpg


rtmtg2.jpg


As Bog's states - it can be bigger (mine is obviously too big for the minimill but it works and I also have a Bridgport to use it on)

Ken
 
Ken I said:
A couple of self explanatory photos - I often take my 3 or 4 jaw lathe chuck over to the RT (often with turned part in it.) Ken

If I understand... the chuck is bolted to the RT mounting plate from behind (inner 3 bolt pattern) & the plate is then attached to the RT (outer 4 bolt pattern)? Is that plate/chuck assembly somehow referenced or engaged concentrically to the MT hole in the RT, or that needs to be clocked in before the 4 bolts are fully tightened? I dont quite get what that ring is for.

Self explanatory doesnt apply to newbies! :)
 
You have it correct - once assembled you have to clock it and gently persude it with a thumper to get it true. (the three bolts holding the chuck are tight but the 4 holding the adaptor plate are initially loose (pinched up) and progressively tightened as you approach concentricity - admittedly a PITB.

That "ring" locates the rear bore of the chuck to the plate - given that you still need to clock it, its probably unecessary but I made it with the intention that the chuck would not move about its 3 mounting bolts while being thumped - in retrospect, I don't believe it is necessary.

There are other methods - the 2MT hole can be used with an adaptor spiggot and you live with whatever concenticity to get out of it.

Some people bore (mill) a small datum recess in the centre of the table (about the MT2 hole) for the same purpose.

Rigidly locating to the table is all good and well but leaves you no wriggle room if its not as true as you would like - hence my preference for the loose plate.
More often than not I mount my 4 jaw on the plate as it is easier to get true than using a blunt instrument.

Hope this helps.

Ken
 
Mosey said:
I bought a 6" rt from Grizzly some years ago, which turns out to be the ubiquitous Vertex. I like it and would buy it again.

Mosey...Is this the one your talking about ? Or anyone with the Vertex? Is there a big difference in what the R/T graduations are (down to 10 sec vs 20 sec) ? 4 slot vs. 6 slot ?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-Rotary-Table-w-Div-Plates/H7527

Thanx again
V 45
 

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