Re: TB5 proposal

[bearcar1]

Randel, I've got you down for a Walnut. Also, Pat, I may have a lead on a planer I can use so as not to have to ship all this stock out rough. If I can in fact gain access to it I will be able to make the bases here as I had originally hoped to do. I'll let you know for certain when I know for sure. If there are any changes to the dimensions of the bases, please let me know so I can adjust accordingly. Thanks all.

BC1
Jim

 

[kjk]

If it is a problem, I can supply the bases. I am making a set of bases for Pat in any case and I can make them in Cherry, white or red oak, or walnut. There's enough lumber to make bases for everyone in any of the woods. I have all the woodworking toys, so no problem.

 

[kjk]

I'd prefer a steel flywheel if possible.

 

[steamer]

Hi Pat,

Just a thought, most dimensional planks of lumber ( from the usual sources anyway...I won't lump in a lumber yard that will plane to any thickness you want) come 3/4 thick (0.75). You could save someone some work with a planer and some money in wood chips if you use stock size....

Just my opinion...worth exactly what you paid for it ;D.

Dave

 

[kjk]

Can't speak for anyone else, but all my wood was purchased rough and I surface it as necessary, so the thickness of the bits can be whatever we need them to be. Over the years I have acquired so much wood that I will never use it up and I'm happy to be sending a little bit of it on a trip around the country.

As Pat said, the sub base dimension needs to be as specified or perhaps a little thicker or the flywheel will not clear.

Pat: Should the drilling of the bases be left to the person assembling the engine in case they choose to use different hardware?

 

[bearcar1]

I'll NOT drill any holes in the wooden bases at this time. I can accommodate any requests to do so but will hold off until we get closer to the finish line. I will keep everyone posted of my progress.

BC1
Jim

 

[cl350rr]

Pat J,
thanks for updating the drawings. no xpert on woblers but it seems to me the centerline of the ports in the frame need to line up with the centerline of the crankshaft or the ports will not open evenly on each side of the cycle.

Randel

 

[1hand]

Here is where I stand will the flywheel.

Set the height of cutter.

Faced one side.

Then turned the inner design. Then flipped in chuck, and repeated the last 2 steps.

Next, center drilled, drilled, and reamed to 0.4375"

Then it was off to the mill. I haven't made a mandrel yet, so it will be back to the lathe to turn the outer diameter, and bevel the edges.

Took about 3 hours to cut the spokes.

Then things took a turn for the worse!

When I went to make a second pass on the lettering, I didn't reset the starting point. I figured It would go back and rerun the program, but it started right from where the first pass end. I hit the estop in time before it started cutting through the hub, so luckily I thought I was in the clear. So I reset the starting point and hit go. It went back to the start, but when I hit the estop earlier, it also reset the tool height. It buried the 1/16" bit into the flywheel and broke it.

This is my first CNC text job, so lesson learned. Go back and check, and recheck everything between passes. Should beable to save the flywheel by taking .025" or so off all the spokes, and start from scratch.

So we are waiting for new 1/16" end mills, and 4" 12L14 disc's to show up in the mail in the next few days.

Matt

 

[stevehuckss396]

When I went to make a second pass on the lettering, I didn't reset the starting point. I figured It would go back and rerun the program, but it started right from where the first pass end.

I'm not sure what happened but as long as X and Y axis were not tampered with in any way or reset to zero, the text should have been overwritten exactly. I'm wondering if the machine was trying to return to 0,0/X,Y and the bit was not high enough to clear the hub. I have done that several times myself. Then when the Estop was hit, everything now would have to be reset.

I'm sure you will figure it out.

Cheers.

 

[1hand]

I'm not sure what happened but as long as X and Y axis were not tampered with in any way or reset to zero, the text should have been overwritten exactly. I'm wondering if the machine was trying to return to 0,0/X,Y and the bit was not high enough to clear the hub. I have done that several times myself. Then when the Estop was hit, everything now would have to be reset.

I'm sure you will figure it out.

Cheers.

Steve,

LazyCam didn't recolonize the text from my drawing, so I had to use wizard afterward.

I am using the engraving wizard in Mach 3. When it got done cutting the last M, it just stops there in the rapid height. The gcode that wizard produces, doesn't tell it to go back to zero when its done running. "I should of took that as to the first clue something wasn't right"

The only reason I wanted to rerun the cut, is that wizard also doesn't allow an entry for a total depth per pass. Just a total depth. So I was going to run it 3 or 4 times at .002, .004, .006, .008 and so on till I got a depth that looked right. Which I was right in thinking cause them 1/16" ends don't take much to break, as I found out. :big:

Enco has them on sale now. Thm: :big:

Matt

 

[stevehuckss396]

If you want to send the DXF file of the flywheel over I can do some Gcode for you so this doesn't happen again. I just need to add the text to your DXF and post the code.

 

[1hand]

Gentlemen,

As we know this project is for us beginners to gain some experience in maching. I'm finding out my machines are lacking heft for this production work on the steel flywheels. I can burn through the aluminium with great easy, and in a relatively timely fashion. When it comes to the steel, even though its "free machining", I have to cut my depth and speed both in half, to prevent the machines from shaking apart. My 3 hour cycle time turns into 10 or more, and still with noises of over load.

I propose to the team: I will still make a steel flywheel if you want, but it will be a standard flywheel without spokes and engraving. The aluminium ones will go along as planned before with the added bling.

I'm sorry for any inconvenience is brings to you, but I need to save my machines for some up coming prosthetic production work I have planned shortly.

PM me with your thoughts or concerns.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[kjk]

Personal preference for me is a steel or cast iron flywheel (how about depleted Uranium?). I like the extra mass as I prefer these engines to run well at low speeds. Spokes are nice but not essential - a solid flywheel or holes in lieu of spokes works fine for me. Just my $0.02.

Happy New Year to everyone.

 

[cl350rr]

You have stumbled across the reason a few folks, including me, were recommending a downsized version for the team build.

even in aluminum, the size of the frames is forcing me to use the larger equipment (which is not inside the heated house) and I have spent the past few days working on designs for jigs to complete the work... I don't have a full sized mill and my sherline is not happy about hoggin away nearly 1.5" of anything in a hurry.

I committed, it will get done but as they say... "good, fast, cheap; pick 2".

Randel

 

[kjk]

Well, it's always a matter of choices isn't it. If I were choosing between a full size engine with an Aluminum flywheel and a downsized engine with a steel flywheel, I would opt for the full sized engine with an Aluminum flywheel.

I certainly appreciate that there is a lot of material to shift and Aluminum would certainly lighten the burden.

 

[kjk]

Just an FYI as it is not material to the TB5 builds, but I have completed the base components for the future TB5a and these will ship to Pat next week.

 

[bearcar1]

Pat, gentlemen

After careful deliberations and much hand wringing, I must inform you that I am withdrawing from the build. I won't go into any details but I am confident that if you all knew the particulars you would understand. and agree with my decision. (family matters) Pat, I am terribly sorry to have done this to you but you will have to find another source for the wood needed for these bases. Thank you all for your considerations and good luck.

Jim Barker
BC1

 

[JorgensenSteam]

Jim-

No problem, I fully understand. Thanks for your participation.

Chuck, we are shifting you into team 5 if you are ready.

What can you build?

 

[1hand]

Jim,
I hope everything is going to be ok for you and your family.

Chuck,
Welcome to the build! Glad to have ya!

TB5 Team,
I'm currently working on a revised Fly Wheel design, and will post a pic as soon as it's done cutting.

Steve,
Thanks a ton for the lettering Gcode. I got anxious waiting for the 1/16" end mills, so I found a 5/16" 45deg drill point end mill I had laying in the drawer, and gave it a go! Looks good.

Matt

 

[kjk]

Matt,

Could you post a video of the engraving process?

Ken