POWR-KRAFT (Logan) Lathe Info

[Stan]

If you join the bulletin board on the Logan site you will get a lot of info from people with Logan/Wards lathes that have been modified in every conceivable way.

You lathe looks like a Logan model 200 basic lathe that came with change gears (not a quick change box) and without power cross feed. All power longitudinal feed is via the half nuts so there is no gear drive with clutch for power feed.

Once again, join the Logan lathe group and get all the info first hand.

 

[scootermcrad]

Hey guys!

Now that the holidays are over, I've slowly been getting back into this. Picked up a couple books and a manual from Logan that covers all the parts and such for the machine. I have it all bolted back together and started leveling it out with a high quality machinists level. Lookin' good!

Did a general clean up of the machine fixed a couple things that didn't look right. Had a super sketchy belt guard, the motor was mounted pretty whacky, and the counter-shaft chassis that mounts the left side leg was mounted all wrong. That's all in good shape now. Next step is to get the tail stock lined up and check to see how everything else mics out.

The machine does seem to have a power cross-feed. It's controlled with a plunger. Haven't looked very closely at any of the power-feed components yet. I have a lot to learn.

I DID indeed join the Yahoo group. Haven't had time to poke around too much beyond finding out the year of make and the model that it is so I could get the correct manuals.

QUESTION!! I need to put the outer spindle bearing cover back on (three-holed flange thingy). I obviously need to pull the chick to do this. What is the proper way to lock this machine to remove the chuck? Re-installing?

I'll get some more pictures soon for you guys.

 

[scootermcrad]

Here's how she's lookin' in her new home...

I feel like the tensioner for the flat belt is missing something. Seems like the lever would want to drop out of tension if bumped even the slightest bit...

Here's a better view of the apron...

 

[Philjoe5]

Looking good Scooter. You'll soon be making chips.

Chuck removal is best done by engaging back gears. Then apply moderate pressure with the chuck key or better yet insert a piece hex bar in the chuck and use a wrench on it to unscrew the chuck. Install a chuck by screwing it onto the spindle and just snug it up by hand.

Remember to put a piece of wood under the spindle to protect the ways.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[scootermcrad]

Looking good Scooter. You'll soon be making chips.

Chuck removal is best done by engaging back gears. Then apply moderate pressure with the chuck key or better yet insert a piece hex bar in the chuck and use a wrench on it to unscrew the chuck. Install a chuck by screwing it onto the spindle and just snug it up by hand.

Remember to put a piece of wood under the spindle to protect the ways.

Cheers,
Phil

GREAT! Thank you Phil!

Speaking of back gears... I was just messing around with it a bit and noticed that when I pull the plunger out to engage the back gears, if feels jammed. If I tension the flat drive belt and try to turn the final stepped drive pulley, nothing will move. Am I doing something wrong? Is something out of wack??

 

[Philjoe5]

If you engage the back gears what exactly seems jammed? If you try to rotate the spindle in back gear you'll be unsuccessful, the belt will slip, even under considerable tension.

Be sure to disengage the bull gear by pulling the locking pin out before powering up (amhik) otherwise you will be trying to drive two gear trains at once - the belt will slip.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[scootermcrad]

First things first... I got the chuck off! Piece of cake! I used a large socket, gripped from the inside, and a long handled breaker and it came off effortless. Thanks!

THEN! I put the chip guard/bearing seal back on, tightened it down, but I think it needs a spacer or thick gasket. Locks down on the spindle bearing and keeps it from moving. I need to look at my manual to see what's missing...

If you engage the back gears what exactly seems jammed? If you try to rotate the spindle in back gear you'll be unsuccessful, the belt will slip, even under considerable tension.

Be sure to disengage the bull gear by pulling the locking pin out before powering up (amhik) otherwise you will be trying to drive two gear trains at once - the belt will slip.

Cheers,
Phil

This is where I think I'm getting a little lost and confused. If I pull the plunger out, the back gears are engaged and I indeed cannot move it by hand and definitely not with the belt either. The change gears are not engaged (lever to the center/neutral position).

You'll have to excuse my ignorance here... Which is the "bull gear" and which pin are you speaking of?

I'm confused...

 

[Philjoe5]

I'm no expert on Logans or their Powerkraft series so your lathe may differ from my model 825. In the 7th picture down on page 1 of this post you show your lathe with the top of the headstock open. The big gear right behind the chuck is the bull gear. On the chuck side of the gear on my lathe is a pin with a knurled top. If you rotate the chuck you'll see it if it's there. Pulling the pin out disengages the bull gear from the spindle. That allows the back gears to do the driving.

The change gears operate independently from the back gears.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[scootermcrad]

I'm no expert on Logans or their Powerkraft series so your lathe may differ from my model 825. In the 7th picture down on page 1 of this post you show your lathe with the top of the headstock open. The big gear right behind the chuck is the bull gear. On the chuck side of the gear on my lathe is a pin with a knurled top. If you rotate the chuck you'll see it if it's there. Pulling the pin out disengages the bull gear from the spindle. That allows the back gears to do the driving.

The change gears operate independently from the back gears.

Cheers,
Phil

BINGO!! I found it! Problem solved! Thanks a TON Phil! I love this thing!

 

[scootermcrad]

Okay, since you guys are on a role, here's another question for you guys.

Is there supposed to be a seal, a spacer, or something, between this bearing shield and the head stock and bearing?? The manual isn't very clear and since it was apart already I can't figure out if something is missing. I definitely do not see LA-195 or LA-247, but then I may not be clear on their position. Seems like I should have LA-195, but that doesn't solve the problem of LA-194 locking the spindle.

When I tighten the three screws down it locks up the spindle. Obviously that's not right and it explains why it was not put back in place.

 

[D0ZX]

It looks to me like you have the LA-195 on the spindle now and it is backwards. I would take 2 putty knives, 1 on each side and carefully work it back off the spindle, it should slide off easy if you don't cock it. Install LA-194 and check for binding. Then install LA-195.
That is how mine is and there is no LA-247 in mine but my rig has 4 bolts holding on the retainer...

 

[scootermcrad]

It looks to me like you have the LA-195 on the spindle now and it is backwards. I would take 2 putty knives, 1 on each side and carefully work it back off the spindle, it should slide off easy if you don't cock it. Install LA-194 and check for binding. Then install LA-195.
That is how mine is and there is no LA-247 in mine but my rig has 4 bolts holding on the retainer...

Great!! Thank you!! I will try that!

 

[scootermcrad]

Fired up the lathe for a spin! Found a few issues...

First the counter-shaft bushings were SHOT, so I ordered some replacements.

Next, I found that the 3-jaw chuck that was on it must have been put together in the wrong order. Chuck runs true, but the parts do NOT when they are clamped in there. Going to pull it off tomorrow and have a look. A 1/4" round part runs about .015" out! WOW!

Last... I need to get the turret tool post/holder set up right and with the right cutters or I need to ditch it and run something else. I guess I could go back to the tool post that uses the Armstrong style holders or check out what was mentioned earlier in this thread.

What all do you guys run for tool holders? What works well with these old machines?

 

[D0ZX]

I'm running a DTM 100 series (AXA size) wedge type. By far the best upgrade I did so far.
There are several brands of this style post that are very affordable. You can see it in the tailstock pic I posted.

 

[Stan]

The part #194 (bearing cap) does hold the bearing tightly in the bore. Logan used several different methods to obtain the clamp pressure. Some bearing caps (194) were individually ground to fit, some used a shim washer (#247) and some used a spring washer.

The bearing cap applies pressure to the outside race of the headstock bearing while #195 rotates with the spindle, while making a close fit to the bearing cap to keep cuttings out of the bearing.

Old worn out three jaw chucks can have significant runout which varies with the size of stock. Not much you can do with a worn out chuck.

 

[scootermcrad]

So this might be a stupid question, but since I really am clueless about the turret style tool post I have, I want to ask some questions.

I just ran across a picture of this style tool post using Armstrong type holders.

I have a bunch of these holders/cutters and although I would like to eventually change to something that is a little more of a quick change design, I would like to get going with what I have in the mean time, if possible. Maybe I just need someone to point me to some good information about these turret style tool posts so I can set it up correctly and make it useful.

Going to play around with that 3-jaw chuck today to see if it was simply reassembled in the wrong order or if it is actually worn beyond use.

 

[Philjoe5]

Regarding runout on a 3 jaw chuck, be sure those spindle threads are absolutely clean.
Clean the chuck scroll and jaws too, that can make a difference. Also, you might do a light skim of the chuck backplate face in case the previous owner neglected to do that.

Like DOZX I have the AXA 100 QCTP mounted on my model 825 and it works well. They can be had for about $100 and extra holders can be made but they are inexpensive too.

The turret toolpost works Ok but you'll need to place shims under the toolbit to be sure the cutting edge of the tool is centered with the spindle. I used this arrangement for years but once I set up a QCTP I never looked back.

Good luck
Cheers,
Phil

 

[scootermcrad]

I see an AXA 100 Quick Change T-post set on Amazon right now. It's probably an "Import". Worth considering for hobby use?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPDQ4G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I will pull the back off the chuck and clean things up. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Philjoe5]

There are numerous import QCTP's that work fine for hobby use. They come in two flavors, piston and wedge. Wedge is claimed to be more rigid so if a $20-$30 premium over the piston style is doable I'd go for the wedge. I can't tell from the Amazon product which one it is. This one is a bit more but it IS wedge type:

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2280&category=

Many folks find the piston style just fine so you pays your money you takes your chances.

Cheers,
phil

 

[scootermcrad]

There are numerous import QCTP's that work fine for hobby use. They come in two flavors, piston and wedge. Wedge is claimed to be more rigid so if a $20-$30 premium over the piston style is doable I'd go for the wedge. I can't tell from the Amazon product which one it is. This one is a bit more but it IS wedge type:

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2280&category=

Many folks find the piston style just fine so you pays your money you takes your chances.

Cheers,
phil

I really like that one you linked to! Compatible with several different makes, as well. I was looking at the Phase II posts on US Shop Tools site. About $236 for the same set as you mentioned. Definitely an import and does not offer 4 different stations like the one you linked to.

http://www.usshoptools.com/current_year/all_products/2010_11_pdf/PGS_501_506.pdf

Do you, or anyone else, have experience with the tool post that LittleMachineShop is selling??