Newbie and the Flywheel(s)

[Foozer]

Foozer,

Sorry things didn't go according to Hoyle, but that's the way the mop flops sometimes.

Just a thought but would it be possible to cut the spokes 1st and then do your very nice trick with the faceplate. ???

Best Regards
Bob

Was a cute error (hate to say operator) that caused the mayhem. Wanted a method to lock the cross slide in place so did a mod similar to the one detailed here http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=950.0. Issue awoke as the gib is held in place with pointed screws. Didnt take long for the points to dig in letting the gib come loose when I moved the slide. Have repaired the mod by spotting a small indent into the gib strip with a center drill and then rounded over the gib screw points. They should now rest in place without digging in when I lock the slide.

Next crack at it will be as you suggest, cut spokes first, then the taper

 

[Foozer]

I truly admire your "stuff" Foozer. Never say die. Unless your talking to the metal, of course. ;D

I'm currently "trying" different cuts and angles with my tools. It hasn't happened yet, but soon, I'm gonna break or throw something just because I'm new and don't know anything yet. It makes me just a little hesitant everytime I turn the lathe on. Wondering and then re-thinking it again and still not being "sure" until after I've switched it on. Just knowing that its bound to happen and not knowing WHEN.

AHHHHHH! The suspense of it all. ;D


respectfully,
Kermit

The more I learn the less I know. Sometimes, well , most of the time you just go and do it. OK think it out as best as can be first then give it a shot. Never fails that the most obvious item is over looked. Thing that stays to the forefront is safety, One can always get another hunk of metal, fingers on the other hand . . .

Should of seen me raise a 47 foot tower for the little windmill, how one can plan out the process and completely miss the fact that a tree was smack dab in the way, long story short, twas' off to the store for another piece of pipe. Good side was the reinforcement of "Everyone stay clear of the work area"

Its gonna happen, thats a fact, all we can do is try and plan for it to minimize the unwanted results when Murphy makes the appearance.

 

[Foozer]

“Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.”
Theodore Roosevelt​

Gonna try this route for the insert pattern

Still has a bit of part relocating involved so that should keep me busy. Results good or bad, same time, same channel

 

[bearcar1]

G'morning Fooz', sorry to see your initial go of it was not successful. I do like your newest spoke design pattern but may I point out that if that particular flat is pressed into the rim there is not a lot of contact area. Being that the only surface area being mated is the ends of the four fingers. Perhaps ??? if you were to machine a thin concentric rim to connect up the spokes it would reap the benefit of having more surface to press in as well as giving the entire assembly more stability. Just some thoughts. Thank you for allowing me to share them and good luck this time around. :bow:

Cheers

BC1

 

[Foozer]

G'morning Fooz', sorry to see your initial go of it was not successful. I do like your newest spoke design pattern but may I point out that if that particular flat is pressed into the rim there is not a lot of contact area. Being that the only surface area being mated is the ends of the four fingers. Perhaps ??? if you were to machine a thin concentric rim to connect up the spokes it would reap the benefit of having more surface to press in as well as giving the entire assembly more stability. Just some thoughts. Thank you for allowing me to share them and good luck this time around. :bow:

Cheers

BC1

Does look a bit spindly doesn't it. I think my little AA109 agrees with you for after setting up the stock on the face plate, the 'THUNK' was heard when I went to put the plate on the spindle." HEY wadda mean the diameter is too big?"

So after relocating the blank to fit within the machine's limits the ends of the spokes do widen up some, 'bout double in contact area. End product is going to be a Finger Engine so RPM caused instability should equal my own level of sanity

The sun is out, yard needs mowing and I'll spend the day in the Barn chipping metal, what more could a guy ask for.

 

[Foozer]

“Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.”
Theodore Roosevelt​

Little time avoiding the yard mowing. Got the insert set up within the limits of the lathe and cut out the spokes. Guess its a Maltese Cross type pattern. Really going to have to improve on hole locations i.e. bigger magnifying device.

Next up, turn the OD to fit the rim ID. Happy Happy Joy Joy

 

[bearcar1]

If you keep this up Fooz', Orange County Choppers will be looking to hire your talents. ;D I'm liking it so far. That extra 'width' at the ends of the spokes should give you quite a bit more support than your original plan, of course a piece out of brass and some solder .............. :

BC1

 

[Foozer]

If you keep this up Fooz', Orange County Choppers will be looking to hire your talents. ;D I'm liking it so far. That extra 'width' at the ends of the spokes should give you quite a bit more support than your original plan, of course a piece out of brass and some solder .............. :

BC1

This one is about as big as I have nerve to ride or Putt Putt around this island on. 1966 Honda CL77, Spent a lot of "Garage" time restoring it. Like everything else, the fun is in the project, when its done, well i have only put a tad over a hundred miles on it over the past couple years.

Just a bit of tweaking on the flywheel web to do and then its oven - freezer time

 

[Foozer]

“Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.”
Theodore Roosevelt​

Heated and chilled the parts, ended up with a 0.006 interference fit. Went together will very little pressure. Used a blank piece slightly smaller than the inserts OD to even the force while pumping the handle on the 20 ton press. Went right into place with no fanfare. I like the pattern just dont like the outcome. On to try number 3, make another pair of inserts taking greater care in the hole location i.e much bigger magnifying glass and a few good whacks upon the drill press with a 10 pound singe jack just for the heck of it.

A bit more math for the hole spacing is in order, have to go through the programs that one member of this board graciously provides and see if resolution exist.

 

[bearcar1]

Foozer, I still like the looks of it, even with the character flaws. You're onto something here nd I cant wait to see the next generation, BTW, has OCC called you yet? ;D

BC1

 

[Brass_Machine]

Foozer...

Very nice. I actually like the second incarnation better than your first. Nice job.

Eric

 

[Foozer]

Foozer...

Very nice. I actually like the second incarnation better than your first. Nice job.

Eric

Yup it does have that cute look, making another set of inserts to reduce the "Character Flaws" Just have to realize that when it comes to ambition versus the drill press, what the drill press wants, the drill press gets

Shall see how the next day or two goes. so far the desires of the drill press are minimal, close to the sandblast the insert stage, rounds all the edges off and I sorta like the 'cast' look it gives, press the new version in, clean it up a tad and get the hub done. Ya all that stuff.

You guys make it look so easy

 

[Foozer]

“Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.”
Theodore Roosevelt​

Tinkering around working on the tapered hub for this exercise. If I knew any better . . .

Bad photo, camera argues on macro shots, not enough meat 'tween the inner most spoke hole and the hub cutout. When the web was pressed into the flywheel rim a collapse occurred, that little line seen in the shot. Lesson learned, more meat 'tween openings and/or mounting web to hub first to act as material support.

Least I'm getting practice in on making the webs

 

[cfellows]

Nice looking flywheel design. I don't normally get too excited about anything other than a 5 or 6 spoked, traditional flywheel, but I like this one!

Chuck

 

[Foozer]

Nice looking flywheel design. I don't normally get too excited about anything other than a 5 or 6 spoked, traditional flywheel, but I like this one!

Chuck

I'm burning through the flat stock on this, so far score is Metal 1, Me 0. Game not over yet.

5 or 6 spokes, hmm, time to order up a few more feet of plate stock

 

[Foozer]

“Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.”
Theodore Roosevelt​

Getting to the spooky part now. Turning the taper lock hub. Set the slide to 4 degrees or as close as could with a protractor. Set a hunk of brass stock and used the home brewed steady rest to bore the internal taper to size, (0.600 inch down to near 0.500 ?) So without moving the slide angle set in a piece of AL, drilled and bored the center hole to 0.373 - 0.375 and then set the machine in reverse and cut the external taper to match up with the brass hunk. Its a low and slow process, fingers get tired from turning that little wheel and always on guard for that OH NO! the chuck un-threaded itself. Lots of light cuts later the two fit up.

Chucker head me gave it a little tap and well, tomorrow I will ponder getting them apart

Bit more to do untill the dreaded tapping itty bitty holes comes up. With my clucky hands breaking 1/4-20 taps is easy. Those little ones bring out an array of colorful language.

 

[mklotz]

Bit more to do untill the dreaded tapping itty bitty holes comes up. With my clucky hands breaking 1/4-20 taps is easy. Those little ones bring out an array of colorful language.

Make yourself some tap alignment tools as outlined here...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=464.0

in Reply #10.

Swap these in in place of the tap drill immediately after drilling the tap hole. You'll automatically be dead on-line and the guide pin will prevent you from bending the tap, a major cause of breakage in the smaller sizes.

 

[Foozer]

Make yourself some tap alignment tools as outlined here...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=464.0

Absolutely, nothing worse than staring at a broken tap, unless of course the bride gets wind of yet again another talented move.

So today got the hub fairly well done, surprised at the grip the tapered joint has. Being a little chicken at drilling the other spoke holes, gonna have to use the lathe to do them this time, another day task. Not much to see but getting closer.

 

[Foozer]

At the suggestion of mklotz, made a tap holder for a 4-40 tap. Did a 2 piece sliding unit with a spring to keep some sense of alignment as the tap enters the hole.

After rigging up the little RT to the lathe cross slide, awkward to center the gizmo bit a few cups of coffee and some edge finder time got it acceptable. Trick now is to remember that only 4 of the holes go into the hub itself, other 2 of the 6 are for the release screws.

Just another day in Paradise . .

 

[bearcar1]

Looking good Fooz', I also should make up a tap guide. I think I will steal your method of using a spring for a bit of tension when starting. Maybe I can get patent on it. ;D I appreciate your new avatar as well, can you make it spin the opposite direction? :big:

BC1