Newbie and the Crank Support

[roadrage17]

First time ive really seen the faceplate being used , looks like a really useful thing to have, and no how to use when u got an irregular shape.

well done froozer great job you are doing there .
keep it up

regards roadrage

 

[Foozer]

First time ive really seen the faceplate being used , looks like a really useful thing to have, and no how to use when u got an irregular shape.

well done froozer great job you are doing there .
keep it up

regards roadrage

For oddball shaped pieces it seems to do the trick, just have to always keep in mind that there are a lot of rotating bits and pieces not normally present when using a chuck. Faceplate is versatile, but I too am a newbie at this metal working stuff, I'll try different methods to achieve an end, but not at the expense of lost body parts. With the BE Safe aspect out of the way, the face plate and soft jaw chuck are becoming two of the favorite toys to use, especially on the tiny lathe I have.

 

[steamer]

Foozer,

Your doing just fine.....as long as it's all fun ...keep going!


Dave

 

[zeeprogrammer]

but I too am a newbie at this metal working stuff,

sure sure.

hey, everybody...see the flywheel (avatar) he made? nice.

I've been meaning to ask for some time...how did you create an animated avatar? I haven't seen any others.

 

[Foozer]

sure sure.

hey, everybody...see the flywheel (avatar) he made? nice.

I've been meaning to ask for some time...how did you create an animated avatar? I haven't seen any others.

You know those times when your really bored, when the "Bride" wants to talk about 'FEELINGS' You have that epiphany, I Can do that!

Take image export to gif, rotate 15 degrees, export to gif, rotate 15 degrees, Do that 12 times and any old gif animator. Much better than "Yes Dear, I understand Dear, I'm listening Dear for hours on end . . .

 

[zeeprogrammer]

quote::
You know those times when your really bored, when the "Bride" wants to talk about 'FEELINGS' You have that epiphany, I Can do that!
end quote::

uh...do what? You're leaving too much to the imagination (or not enough?). ;D

quote::
Much better than "Yes Dear, I understand Dear, I'm listening Dear for hours on end.
end quote::

uh...depends on the end goal...there's not just one...or just one type. ;D

Thanks for the info on the avatar.

 

[Foozer]

quote::
You know those times when your really bored, when the "Bride" wants to talk about 'FEELINGS' You have that epiphany, I Can do that!
end quote::

uh...do what? You're leaving too much to the imagination (or not enough?). ;D

On my 4th perhaps ex wife, have learned, when women want to talk best for me to suddenly remember I have another thing to do. They all have one thing in common, Reminding me of my faults

Much better than "Yes Dear, I understand Dear, I'm listening Dear for hours on end.

uh...depends on the end goal...there's not just one...or just one type. ;D
Thanks for the info on the avatar.

I vaguely remember one of those end "Goals" the product of which after 28 years still lives here.

Avatar, yup an exercise in killing time. Used Sketchup to make original with some rendition plug in to perty it up a tad.

 

[Foozer]

After a day similar to another's here on the board "Z" , drill bit grabbing the bronze stock causing a redo of the part. The support (one of them) contains a 0.550 od piece of bronze with a 0.375 id for the crank to run in. Spun in the support and blew the hole out from its original 0.500. Planned that way of course So a trial assembly of what-ever-the-heck I'm trying to make was in order.

Like its builder there seems to be a screw loose, but all in all a fun trip so far. Now if I can only remember where the heck I put the other flywheel. Lots of clean up coming. . . spit and polish

 

[Foozer]

Starting on the other set of supports, for the finger level I believe. Trying for same design as the crank support just 1/2 the size. Wore the last faceplate out so fabed up a new one from 1" X 6" dia AL. Gonna try and not butcher this one up as quick so after getting it faced up and some bolt holes drilled and tapped, attached another plate to which the smaller supports are clamped to.

The arc radius for this pair will be 0.750." base being wider than the top requires the piece to be offset from center. Once I figured where the arc center point was I attached a couple of index blocks to the plate so the part would just nestle in place then be clamped down. Thought is to fab em one at a time in a repeatable fashion. Makes the footprint of the rotating bits and bobs of the faceplate smaller which agrees with my nervous system.

A trial run to see whats up, the smaller the piece the greater the errors show. Already see that I might of been better to put the index block on the other side of the piece. Direction of rotation and all that. A tomorrow thing. . .

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Hi Foozer,

Couple of newbie questions...

What part is the index block and what is its function?
Is that a cookie sheet on the ways? I think I've seen other people doing that. Why?

Thanks.

If I remember right, you're doing this without plans. Are you making them as you go?

 

[Foozer]

Hi Foozer,

Couple of newbie questions...

What part is the index block and what is its function?
Is that a cookie sheet on the ways? I think I've seen other people doing that. Why?

Thanks.

If I remember right, you're doing this without plans. Are you making them as you go?

I'm kinda a lazy sort, spent 20 years doing repetitive assemblies that making up little jigs to locate parts became the way. Company hated that method, called em "Shop Aids" which drove the FAA crazy. They had no way to track, anyway its a habit that I cant shake, so I'll spend whatever hours are required to make one or a hundred pieces as simple as possible.

So once I figure what I want it's just a matter of rigging up a jig to hold the part in place, do the operation and if need be drop another part in the jig and repeat the operation. Suits my nature

So the jig here is the square plate to which the 2 pieces of stock attached to become the "Index." Set the piece to be worked against the stops, clamp it down, good to go. Like using a vise stop on the mill to work a number of identical parts.

On a mill this would be a walk in the park operation. How would you do it? Me with no mill, well I don't mind the trip through the mud, keeps the Bride busy yelling at me for tracking it in

You can see in the one photo that the block to be worked isn't square, the boring edges are tapered. Be a few hours to set up a milling attachment to the lathe and square up some pieces, or change the tranny in the car, or put the new crankshaft in the bike, or change the half shaft in the other car, or cut some firewood, or . . . Ya I hooked

Cookie sheet is to catch the chips, well most of em at least. The lathe is set on 1 inch riser blocks to increase the access under it to ease cleanup.

No plan, just winging it as I go. Find it interesting to work out how to cut different features, not all turn out as desired but that's the fun (err excues not to mow the yard)

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Ah. Thanks.

Thought so about the cookie sheet. I hope you didn't steal it from 'the bride'.

Of course my ulterior motive for asking about the plans was to eventually...ask for the plans.

Thanks.

 

[Foozer]

So from the trial run found the stock not square enough for my liking. So came up with this setup to square the ends up to the stock sides. 1-2-3 blocks used as a mini vise. I know the face plate is a good surface (little skim cut to be sure) so bolted the blocks down with cross bolts to squeeze them together holding the piece to be worked securely in place. Actually fastened down one of the 1-2-3 blocks and with the other block as an index double sided taped the piece against the fixed block so I had one 90 degree side, then set the loose 1-2-3 block as described. Lot of meat going around so slow speed on the lathe, about 300 rpm, no vibrations, makes me happy.

Once one end was trued up, flipped it 180 and did the other end. Now I should be good to go on turning the radius for each side. With the ends squared off to the front back when it comes time to drill the through holes they shouldn't come out all kiddy wompus (fingers crossed) Hey I'm a newbie here after all

ZEE
Have a general plan for this project, shape change as it progresses. Fit parts to plan, fit plan to parts, gotta love it

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Have a general plan for this project, shape change as it progresses. Fit parts to plan, fit plan to parts, gotta love it

I know the method well. Code and then write the design document. Now, if I can only get the tests to pass before I write the code...hoo boy! :big:

 

[bearcar1]

I'm liking your 'work safely with what you have available approach', Fooz'. Not everyone has every tool known to mankind in his/her shop. An old timer friend of my Dad ran a shop that still used a coal fired hearth and an old belt driven lathe that dated back to when the world was new ;D and you should have seen some of the setups that he had to conjure up. It was magical really. No one would have believed such things were possible. I can't wait to see your treadle engine finished up, it'll be way cool.

Cheers

BC1
Jim

 

[Foozer]

I'm liking your 'work safely with what you have available approach', Fooz'. Not everyone has every tool known to mankind in his/her shop. An old timer friend of my Dad ran a shop that still used a coal fired hearth and an old belt driven lathe that dated back to when the world was new ;D and you should have seen some of the setups that he had to conjure up. It was magical really. No one would have believed such things were possible. I can't wait to see your treadle engine finished up, it'll be way cool.

Cheers

BC1
Jim

Stone Axe and Flint Knifes . . . One of these days I ought have ta get me some of them new "Steel" tools. Problem haps be I not knowing how to use em

Like you said, its not the tool but the thought behind the usage, boy am I in trouble...


Robert

 

[bearcar1]

When you start to make charcoal paintings of the big hunt on the walls of your shop, at least in the next millenia, future generations will have a clue as to how primitive we all are. :big:

BC1
Jim

 

[Foozer]

When you start to make charcoal paintings of the big hunt on the walls of your shop, at least in the next millenia, future generations will have a clue as to how primitive we all are.
BC1
Jim

The "Bride" has wondered about the dirt floor and some thing called "Glass Windows" Sounds like Snake Oil to me. . .

So came to a point in cutting the radius for these little parts where an increase in accuracy (Oh the Pain) seemed due. Trying to spot the center of the face plate and use calipers to measure the radius, three different tries, three different readings. Not exactly trusting the DI on the cross slide, dependent upon finding the center of rotation, by eye? NOT. Another method

Radius is 0.750 so turned a round to 1.500 inch dia, OK so it came out to 1.4995 inch. Took the piece and hit it with the ol' magic marker, rubbed the surface against my now called gauge block. Sure shows the irregularities in what looked like a smooth surface, but by the fairly uniform degree the marker was removed, I'd have to say the radius is 0.750 +/- 0.001.

Best way I can think of to date to measure such a thing with the stone axe at my disposal

 

[Foozer]

Version 2

Seems I am spending more time making jigs than anything else, (scratching head)
First jig was fine for cutting the radius on one side but when it came to flip the part, OOPS! No way to securely locate part, bummer. As always, fortune smiles upon the . . . well you know. I had cut up a round to guage the radius, so cut out a piece of that gauge and rigged up a new jig. This version has two positions, one "L" shaped spot for the first radius cuts to be made and the second spot incorporates the piece of gauge block to which the newly formed radius nestles into.

All pined and fastened down. Reversed the index block portion to agree with the rotation, any movement the cutting tool may want to impart on the piece should now be resisted by the index. The hold down clamp can now do just that, hold the part down and not be required to keep it from sliding, something like that.

So if I got the measurements right the two arcs should be uniform, Time will tell

 

[Foozer]

"So if I got the measurements right the two arcs should be uniform, Time will tell"

When cutting an arc that is off center, must remember to apply a witness mark to the part. One on left shows what happened in forgetting that simple step. Got two arcs, at different centers, scrap. One on right, ah much better, plan, well sketch called for the distance between the arcs to be 0.418 inch, I came out at 0.416 inch. One arc is still a squeak above the other, have to revisit the jig and find the error

Those of you that do castings, must really go through pains for setups