Thanx green twinThe only thing critical are the ports and the valve edges.
Nothing else matters much.
.
I just make that he valve lies on properly on
The valveface centered and thats it
Chris
Thanx green twinThe only thing critical are the ports and the valve edges.
Nothing else matters much.
.
The hole position which we have been talking of is also quite critical on this as there is not a lot of clearance in the valve so it needs to be within say +/-0.005" or 0.13mm if the valve is to have some movement. To little and the valve will be held tight to the port face and will also make the valve rod bind. Too much and it won't make contact with the port face and you will just leak steam/air
Hi charlesIn designing the valve I had to deal with the valve rod seemingly being very close to the portface. This is why the exhaust cavity is shallower in the middle of the width. Now we know different, the hole through the valve could be made larger, 8mm or even 9mm.
While a lot of stuff in the UK is genuinely metric, boards are still 8 x 4, they are just designated as 2440 x 1220.
I actually didnt drill that hohle yetHi charles
I can make the hohle bigger
That means it wouldent matter if paralell or not
The buckle have to be accurate isnt it?
Chris
Depends how far off it is. How much is the port face out of parallel to the valve spindle? Are you sure the valve spindle is vertical?That means it wouldent matter if paralell or not
I double checkDepends how far off it is. How much is the port face out of parallel to the valve spindle? Are you sure the valve spindle is vertical?
Hi charlesI double check
Chris
Ok i understandChris, you need to make the hole in the valve big enough, and put it in a position so the rod will pass through with clearance all round. Working from your measurements it looks as though it wants to be half way, 8.7 mm from the face. I suggest you start small, and open up as necessary, perhaps with a file. The hole does not have to be a perfect shape, it just has to be clear of the rod over its range of movement. I can't really be more specific than that.
Nice drain cock.
Thank you charlesJason - I agree, the buckle will need to be eased to allow the valve to tilt. Slighly rounding the inside end faces should do it. Alternatively, the working face of the valve could be remachined at the required angle to make the back and the hole parallel to the rod. (I am not totaly convinced about the nature of this problem anyway.)
With a flywheel it is the moment of inertia the matters, so for a given mass the larger the diameter the better, as well as concentrating the mass at the rim.
100mm should be fine if that is what you have available.