my 1st engine build, a PM Research 3B, on a Unimat db-200

[b.lindsey]

Nick,

Not sure where you are located but I did a quick search on www.mscdirect.com and searched for1/4" boring bar and they do have some. They are relatively short but may suit your purpose.


Edit: I didn't check the price before....looks to be around $30 or so...how bad do you want one?? :big:

Could probably make one instead out of 1/4" drill rod

Bill

 

[Swede]

You can grind a nice boring bar on the cheap by cannibalizing a 1/4" HSS drill, or as Bill mentioned, make one from drill rod.

Looks really nice so far, well done!

 

[Nickademusss]

Thanks guys!

Got the head bored today, as well as the valve guide, and steam channels...

 

[b.lindsey]

I enjoy seeing your progress Nick...its looking good and you will have it running in no time.

Bill

 

[Nickademusss]

I enjoy seeing your progress Nick...its looking good and you will have it running in no time.

Bill

Thanks Bill, I am enjoying the work.

And I done a little more today:

 

[rhitee93]

I'm enjoying this build. I built one of these 12 years ago out of their aluminum kit. Ever since then I have wished I had paid the extra money for the bronze kit so I am envious.

Looking nice so far

 

[lazylathe]

Nice work Nick!!! ;D

I picked up an antique one a while ago and got it running again.
You can see a short video of it here:
[ame]http://youtu.be/byPfF5xyDY4[/ame]

Will be following you on this adventure!!!

Andrew

 

[Nickademusss]

Got a little bit more done...

The center of the eccentric is now done, onto the outside...

 

[Nickademusss]

Got the valve fitted and started on the piston...

 

[b.lindsey]

Not much left now Nick!! Looking forward to seeing it run. Its amazing what you can do on these small machines with a little patience and creativity too.

Bill

 

[Nickademusss]

I agree Bill as long as you take your time, it can be done. The only issue I have had is that it's hard to mill the cast iron on the base, once it's secure on the milling table
the cross bars can let the whole thing shift to much to mill the top of the base.

So I decided to do it by hand and modify the design some. The engines bases cross slide area will be totally flat and I will make/modify the top pieces to hold the cross slide down...

Like my Stuart number 9 engine has on...

It might even look better, I also have some more brass I can use for a new cross slide if needed.

 

[b.lindsey]

Iron can be a little crusty too untili you get beneath the skin. Back when I made mine they were still supplying the #3 in an aluminum version and also an all bronze version. I suppose the price of copper may have initiated the change to some cast iron parts.

Bill

 

[Nickademusss]

A little more progress, the piston, glans and support parts are made....

 

[hal9000]

I think you should take a wobble pole ,connect it to the wiggling shaft ,put some elbow grease ,on a thingamajig and connect it to the doohickey ,and then it will be just perfect ,just my opinion .

That is ma boy ,a (metal)chip off the old block ! ;D ;D ;D

 

[rhitee93]

Looking good. Nice crisp threads on the packing nut.

 

[Nickademusss]

I got the connecting rod and slide worked out today.....

 

[Nickademusss]

A little more complete, the crank bearing and crank parts are now done, I also painted the base and inner flywheel.

 

[Nickademusss]

Got the pieces and parts painted, and assembled, now it runs!

I have some bleed by on the slide valve, that I will fix with a new valve a little tighter fitting, but it works.

Next to mount it on a wood base that matches the other engines I have, or I wonder if it would work on the waste steam from my number 9 engine?

I will also need to add the exhaust fittings...

 

[rhitee93]

Congrats! It's been fun to watch your build

 

[b.lindsey]

It seems to be running very well Nick!! Nice job all around...will be sorry to see it end. What's next on your agenda ?? :big:

Bill