morse taper

[itowbig]

i was thinking about making some 2mt morse tapers with slits so as to hold drill bits instead of using a drill chuck. to save space on my little 7x10 lathe
i was looking through ebay an saw some morse tapers with slits in them and though why would this not work for holding regular drill bits.
now im not talking about holding every size drill bit out there just a few radom ones that i would be using say 5/16 3/8ths ect. ive bean googling for a while and all i come up with is drill chucks and mt drill shanks ect.

 

[Charles Lamont]

What you should look for is a morse taper 'collet', eg here:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets

 

[itowbig]

What you should look for is a morse taper 'collet', eg here:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets

AWWWW i see Thank you. ill google these

 

[kiwi2]

If you have a morse taper in your headstock these can be used instead of the three jaw chuck to give more accurate work holding.
My lathe has a #3 morse taper in the headstock so I use a #3 to #2 liner and the #2 collets.
Regards,
Alan C.

 

[bazmak]

you can buy an ER collet chuck with MT and a set of collets these will hold a full range of drills.Not expensive and more usefull

 

[Swifty]

Sid, if you are going to use the collets in your tailstock, you will need some method of tightening them, like a draw bar.

Paul.

 

[goldstar31]

you can buy an ER collet chuck with MT and a set of collets these will hold a full range of drills.Not expensive and more usefull

Yes Barry, I agree- and disagree. I have three sets of collets. One homemade, one from Myford and as you mention, an ER set. I've also a set for my Unimat clone and my 8mm watchmaker's lathe.

But I have a set of solid no2MT blanks( or were) that take various centre drills, With a draw bar- as Speedy recommends. Again, these solid ones have many uses. I have a set of No1's with abrasive wheels for a T&C grinder and an odd variant with a welded on disc with a sweep face square tool to use the bigger lathe as a miller. None of them are original ideas and the last should really have THREE spaces for various radius cuts.
Martin Cleeve suggestion. When, I forget.

Dead useful ideas- thank you for raising the matter

Norman

 

[itowbig]

Sid, if you are going to use the collets in your tailstock, you will need some method of tightening them, like a draw bar.

Paul.

yup thought about that as well but was hoping they would hold from just pressure being applied . im just trying to make more space on my 7x10 with out too much exspence and if i can make the parts with same lathe , better for me.

 

[Swifty]

Sid, I doubt very much if they would hold like you want. I understand what you mean, but it's asking a lot, you would have to hammer the front of the taper into the tailstock in order to close the collet.

Paul.

 

[bazmak]

MT collets wont work without a drawbar

 

[Gedeon Spilett]

I do have MT3 collets, very comfortable with the mill and the lathe, the shortest overhang you can find. for the same reason I also have a MT2 set for the rotary table that I cannot use on the tailstock, no easy to extract, unless you have a small threaded part to fill the gap of the tenon...

 

[itowbig]

Sid, I doubt very much if they would hold like you want. I understand what you mean, but it's asking a lot, you would have to hammer the front of the taper into the tailstock in order to close the collet.

Paul.

well i was thinking . so now ill have to figger out some thing else.
maybe i can find a tail stock on ebay cheap and cut it down an modify it for a draw bar type thingy. not needed right away but was just getting more info for latter on if an when i might need extra room.
Thanks for replys

 

[goldstar31]

well i was thinking . so now ill have to figger out some thing else.
maybe i can find a tail stock on ebay cheap and cut it down an modify it for a draw bar type thingy. not needed right away but was just getting more info for latter on if an when i might need extra room.
Thanks for replys

Might I ask 'Why?' when you could obviously bore your existing tailstock to take a draw bar.

What baffles me is how you are going to make No2 Morse taper collets.
With my lathe( a Myford Super7B) I have two possibilities. One is to use the top slide and the other, putting a rear mounted taper turning attachment on and disconnect the boring table. The math(s) is simple enough- a 10" sine bar and a 0.250" off set or a 5" sine and 0.125" off set.
That's what Morse did- until someone mucked it up. However, I had a 9 x20 as a 9180 and the top slide traverse was too short and there was no way that I could( or would) fit a taper turning attachment.

There are lots of ( to me) silly off set tools that go into the tailstock that leave me baffled.

Then if you have made the collet- how are you going to split it?

I once saw a slitting saw that was trying to do this- and it broke- and nearly finished more than one of us off.

Respectfully, why and how?

Cheers

Norman

 

[XD351]

I wonder if it would be possible to make a morse taper collet that uses a closing nut like an ER collet ?
That way you could machine a short thread on the end of the tailstock barrel and make a nut to fit.
You would close the collet in the same manner as an ER collet but eject it by winding the barrel back into the tailstock housing as you would to eject a centre etc.

Or you could make some MT holders for your drill bits and either use grub screws to hold them in or braze/ silver solder them in the holders.

 

[rodw]

Might I ask 'Why?' when you could obviously bore your existing tailstock to take a draw bar.

What baffles me is how you are going to make No2 Morse taper collets.
With my lathe( a Myford Super7B) I have two possibilities. One is to use the top slide and the other, putting a rear mounted taper turning attachment on and disconnect the boring table. The math(s) is simple enough- a 10" sine bar and a 0.250" off set or a 5" sine and 0.125" off set.
That's what Morse did- until someone mucked it up. However, I had a 9 x20 as a 9180 and the top slide traverse was too short and there was no way that I could( or would) fit a taper turning attachment.

There are lots of ( to me) silly off set tools that go into the tailstock that leave me baffled.

Then if you have made the collet- how are you going to split it?

I once saw a slitting saw that was trying to do this- and it broke- and nearly finished more than one of us off.

Respectfully, why and how?

Cheers

Norman

Here's my solution to making Morse Tapers.

Nice and simple way to set the compound angle with good results. Your tailstock is aligned right?

 

[goldstar31]

Nice Rod but there are such things as Internal tapers as well.
I do my 'male' ones on the tool and cutter grinder- between centres. Of course, I have a finishing No2 Mt but not a roughing one. to do 'female' ones.

The trickierer part is boring hardened female centres. So far, I can't manage them on my home workshop kit. Any ideas because I have a Thomas Dividing head and want to put in a Thomas Small Boring Head to do ball handles. I risk galling the present set up with a detachable but soft spindle.

Regards and thanks for showing your very accomplished set up

Norman

 

[rodw]

Nice Rod but there are such things as Internal tapers as well.
I do my 'male' ones on the tool and cutter grinder- between centres. Of course, I have a finishing No2 Mt but not a roughing one. to do 'female' ones.

The trickierer part is boring hardened female centres. So far, I can't manage them on my home workshop kit. Any ideas because I have a Thomas Dividing head and want to put in a Thomas Small Boring Head to do ball handles. I risk galling the present set up with a detachable but soft spindle.

Regards and thanks for showing your very accomplished set up

Norman

Norman, thanks, I happened to do a search the other day on eBay for MT3 reamer and some kits are surprisingly inexpensive. Here's an MT2 one with both reamers for <$25

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MT2-No-2-Morse-Taper-Reamer-Set-Number-two-/291299916617?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43d2d3fb49

I think I'd go this way down the track. It's not something you'd use very often so I think the Chinese tool would be OK for me.

 

[goldstar31]

Rod
Great information but I wonder about things here in Little England. There really are some horrendous prices here. Mine is getting somewhat blunt and I don't have an air spindle.

I don't think that UK tool suppliers want us model engineers and especially wizenned old farts like me.

Nice to read something that is new here.

My thanks

Norman

 

[petertha]

you can buy an ER collet chuck with MT and a set of collets these will hold a full range of drills.Not expensive and more usefull

I was wondering about the same thing. ER collet holders are available with MT shanks, but I'm not clear - would the arbors not also require the tang (or whatever the flat portion is called on end) to resist torque & prevent spinning? Is that what you guys are referring to about a drawbar required like on a mill?

 

[kf2qd]

Morse taper drill holders used to be around. The drill bits had flats on the end and each drill required a different morse taper holder.