Mill/Drill V-belt replace/upgrade

[Metal Butcher]

I was switching around the v-belts to change the spindle speed on my mill/drill and noticed one has a crack, and the other has two cracks almost all the way through! They seem to have gotten a bit more noisy lately too. I guess it time to replace both of them. Or have a spare set ready for when they let go.

One belt is marked A-30 and the other is marked A-38, are these Asian markings. I don't know anything about machine belts.

Any suggestions besides going through Enco to order them. I've seen some strange looking brown link belts, are they any good or just a (gimmick) way to adjust to the size needed.

-MB

 

[Omnimill]

I think the "A" is the belt section (size) and the 30 and 38 are the belt sizes. I've always got most of my drive belts from car spares shops - ie Fan Belts!

Vic.

 

[Pete.]

http://www.vbeltsupply.com/conventionalvbelts.html a reference page that is handy for older belts

A 30 Classic V-Belt *** Sub to A30/4L320 *** Replacement belt for Dayco AP30 classic v-belt A30 A-30
A 38 Classic V-Belt *** Sub to A38/4L400 *** Replacement belt for Dayco AP38 classic v-belt A38 A-38

The A defines the cross section (width and hieght) the 30, 38 define length

You need a 4L320 and a 4L400. 4L is newer version or how to define the cross section etc. Go to an automotive parts store and ask fo the two 4l belts listed in this sentence and they should be the same size as the A30 and A38.

 

[Metal Butcher]

Thanks Guys. Its all very simple now! I thought they were some sort of special machine belt. Silly me, their nothing more than plain old fashioned, inexpensive fan belts, that can be had at the corner auto parts store or lawn mower repair shop!

Not the 'Secret Chinese' numbering system for a 'special machine belt' like I imagined!

Rof} Rof} Rof} Rof}

-MB

 

[shred]

FWIW Auto Parts chain stores around here are almost completely useless when it comes to belts. If you can't tell them what car it goes onto, they probably can't find it. Big-Box hardware stores usually have just a few high-priced belts in the mower section. Tractor Supply is where I go to get belts locally-- they stock a wide variety and sizes of belts and pulleys. Local hardware stores and local auto parts places might also still have a stock.

The link-belts are reported to run quieter with less vibration and are very popular on machines that need to be torn down to replace belts.

 

[Metal Butcher]

With the belt 'code' mystery solved, and belts on order, I can move forward.

I decided to order the belts on line instead spending my time on the phone to see if any one local has the sizes I need. I found a source that's very reasonable on the price and shipping. As a matter of fact the prices seem down right low compared to what things cost now days. I splurged a bit and upgraded to 'classic cogged' style belts. Its indicated that they run smoother, quieter, and cooler that standard 'classic' belts. I added a Ax-22 for my 4x6 band saw as it seems a bit stiff and runs on the hot side. For $2.22 why not upgrade it while I'm ordering the two for the M/D.

Here's a link to the web site. Its was a lot of effort to find, so I book marked it for future reference.

http://www.vbelts4less.com/

-MB

 

[Metal Butcher]

My 'A' section cogged belts came in today. They look great, their very flexible and will have no problem with the smallest pulley on my mill. Also, they are a much higher quality than the originals that came with the machine.

With their low cost, high quality, and fast delivery, I would recommend trying out their belts if you would like to upgrade yours, or to have spares on hand.

-MB