MB building Upshur Farm Engines.

[hopeless]

Boy you move fast. I love the way they are coming together and the pics so fools like me can see what we do wrong
I am getting along nicely and use your thread to check out when I have a problem.
You are very good at describing what you do which I am not but I can follow plans ;D and with your help I have avoided some easy mistakes. I have taken pics of what has been done so far jus need to post them
Keep it up MB there are a lot of people reading this thead. :bow: :bow:
Pete

 

[MikeA]

Hello MB,

This effort is inspiring to us lesser mortals who have only recently started working with MW equipment - I am currently building only one (!) Upshur - the horizontal air-cooled and I've taken all your posts and put them into a PDF file as an instruction manual.

One question - it appears you've modified the side plates on this engine with an additional cut between the front plate and the crank holes. Was that for appearance only?

Best,
Mike

 

[Metal Butcher]

Hi Mike. Yes, I changed the side plates for a cosmetic preference. I lowered the area you mention along with the radius on the front plate. It was important to stay short (above) of the crank's center line, and the mounting hole for the cam gear.

#314 I finished cleaning up the five fuel tanks and attached them to tier bases with 2- part epoxy (JB-Weld). Soldering them to their bases would have probably ended with a disastrous result.

The wood bases are just about finished. I used three coats of sanding sealer, and three coats of satin polyurethane. The two bases for the vertical versions are made of two pieces of oak, a 3/4" block on top of a 1/2" base shown in picture below. With the finish on those already dry I glued one set together with carpenters glue and temporarily bolted them till the glue sets up. 24 hours should be sufficient to remove the threaded rods and use them to glue up the second pair.

#315 I couldn't understand the drawing and description of the governor weights. It looks like the springs are supposed to be hooked over the ends of protruding 2-56 studs? I deviated from my understanding of the drawing.

The plan calls for the weights to be .250"dia x .312" long, threaded all the way through for a 2-56 stud to attach the two halves of the weights to the governor arms. I made the weights .250" x .375" threaded 2-56 half way, and reamed 3/32" from the opposite end.

I made studs by cutting off the heads of 10x 2-56 x 1/2" long cap screws. The studs ended up about .440" long which is more thread than needed. I cut 3/32" pins .375" long and added a .020" x .020" groove on each one near the ends to hook the springs onto. The pins are Loctited halfway in with 3/16" showing. This is more than what appears to be 1/8" on the dimension-less drawing. The slightly longer pins eliminate any concern of the spring diameter.

Getting the springs is not going to be really easy! :wall: On the plan it says..."Small hook end springs (2)" oh:

Two days worth of work, and only two pictures, sorry guys. scratch.gif

-MB

 

[MikeA]

Hello MB,

Thanks for the response - I agree your side plates look better and will likely follow suit.

As one who is also 'enjoying' the wonderful weather in greater Cleveland (I'm in Munson Twp., Geauga County) I imagine you are looking forward to spring!

Best,
Mike

 

[Metal Butcher]

Hello MB,

Thanks for the response - I agree your side plates look better and will likely follow suit.

As one who is also 'enjoying' the wonderful weather in greater Cleveland (I'm in Munson Twp., Geauga County) I imagine you are looking forward to spring!

Best,
Mike

Mike, Spring can wait! It may sound strange, but I really love winter! Its nice and toasty in my basement shop. A great time to get involved with building model engines. If I want to see whats going on outside I can just open the garage door and take in the beauty of a freshly-fallen-foot of heavy snow, and wave to my neighbors as they slide down the street sideways on their way to work with joy in their eyes. I should be jealous!

Yea! Hobbies are tough, retirement is tough, but somebody has to do it! ;D

-MB

 

[MikeA]

Hello MB,

I joined the retired club in December 2010 and have to admit I don't know when I ever found the time to work for a living - so many things to do! Not having a 40 mile commute each way this winter has been great, as well as not having to deal with the TSA and the airlines (used to average 100K airmiles every year for the last 25 years.)

Yep, the biggest trek I have is to the mail box to find what new toys have arrived!

Best,
Mike

 

[Deanofid]

I love the base work you did, Rick. Very nice, and I think will accent your engines well.
I'll bet you can make your springs if you have trouble finding store bought ones. It's a pretty
easy thing for a guy like you. I have a write-up in the Tips section. If you can't find it, the
same article is on my webpage.

I think the fuel tanks ended up looking great!

Dean

 

[Metal Butcher]

Hi Dean! Thanks for the compliment on my wooden bases and fuel tanks, I'm glad that you like them. And thanks for reminding me about your excellent write up on making springs. It will come in very handy, since I have never made a spring to speak of.

I have some springs in a HF assortment that will fit temporarily to lock out the governor mechanism during the initial set up and trial runs.

After that, It's almost guaranteed that I'll need to custom make (and remake) springs till I get the governor to work just right.

-MB

 

[tel]

Yep MB, that will be a certaincy - well within your capacity tho, from what we've seen so far.

 

[Metal Butcher]

#316 I worked out the changes that would be needed to make the two F-Head versions as hit-n miss models. I did a great deal of work making all the governor parts, only to find that the lock out levers were too long and wouldn't work. The second problem was a block on the push rod to engage with the lever. On the water and air cooled versions the clevis attachment to the rocker arm prevent the rotation of the push rod, making an off center lock out block possible. Since there is no clevis or rocker arm on the F-Head, the push rod is free to rotate. To solve this dilemma I made a disc that is attached with a set screw to the push rod to engage with the lock out lever regardless of any rotation.

I milled the profile for a shorter version lever and used a slitting saw to cut them off .0935" thick.

#317 The first one is laying on the vise after the cut was finished. with all of the practice I had on this project I'm starting to get much faster and better at making parts using this method.

#318 In the picture below and on the left, is a standard lever used on the water and air cooled versions both horizontal and vertical. On the right are the shorter versions I made today, for one horizontal and one vertical F-Head.

#319 Here's how the lever engages with the lock out block (disc). The disc is 3/8" in diameter by 1/8" thick. I drilled and tapped it for a 3-48 set screw.

#320 It was time for me to make a decision on how to solve the problem, and the parts needed. The solution allows me to keep with my original plan of building five Hit-n-miss versions.

-MB

 

[hopeless]

MB you never cease to amaze me. Nice job I will :bow: inyour presence if I ever meet you. Are you sure you're not from another planet?
A very clever method to that problem.
Pete

 

[metalmad]

Hi MB
I thought I wanted a slitting saw
after seeing this, I now know, I need one
keep up the great work
Pete

 

[tel]

;D David, at Ozmestore usually has a pretty good selection listed - reasonably priced and not-bad quality.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/75x2-0MM-x72Teeth-HSS-Slitting-Slotting-Saw-New-/380319762595?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item588cd308a3

 

[Metal Butcher]

MB you never cease to amaze me. Nice job I will :bow: inyour presence if I ever meet you. Are you sure you're not from another planet?
A very clever method to that problem.
Pete

Thanks for the compliment Pete! .

Yes I'm from another planet. On one of my threads last year I admitted that I was from the planet 'Melmac'. I relate to the sarcastic behavior of my friend 'Alf', he's a character! :big:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDW7-zgZ9Tc&feature=related[/ame]

When I work myself into a corner I get very creative. It's the fear of becoming accustomed to the corner that drives me.

-MB

 

[Metal Butcher]

Hi MB
I thought I wanted a slitting saw
after seeing this, I now know, I need one
keep up the great work
Pete

Hi Pete. Having a few sizes of slitting saws is a good idea, and they will come in handy. I favor a 1/16" saw for cutting off parts. All that's generally needed for small engine projects is a 1/16", 3/32", and a 1/8". I have a 1/2" strait shank slitting saw arbor, and also an R-8 arbor, I favor the R-8 for no particular reason.

-MB

 

[arnoldb]

:bow: Good going MB - I'm quietly following along.

:big: Somehow I get the impression of you standing in the shop wearing a white overall with a hacksaw in one hand and scriber in the other - then uttering "hack"-"hack" sounds a couple of times and then timidly saying "Steel wool ball" afterward....

Arnold

 

[Metal Butcher]

:bow: Good going MB - I'm quietly following along.

:big: Somehow I get the impression of you standing in the shop wearing a white overall with a hacksaw in one hand and scriber in the other - then uttering "hack"-"hack" sounds a couple of times and then timidly saying "Steel wool ball" afterward....

Arnold

Arnold, that's correct, I spend a great deal of time muttering and...singing...dancing...and just talking to my self!

And I usually have some sort of tool in my hand.

But...I wear a purple denim shop apron.

oh: Rof}

-MB

 

[Metal Butcher]

#321 I assembled all of the parts made so far. Below is a group picture of the five Upshur versions.

#322 The two vertical versions. The air cooled is in the back ground, and the F-Head is out front.

#323 Below are the two horizontal versions. The air cooled is on the right, and the F-Head is on the left

#324 And the fifth version is water cooled. All five are now set up as hit-n-miss engines. The next step is to start assembling the ignition system, and to wire and mount the hall sensors.

-MB

 

[Deanofid]

You must have 40-50 engines by now, Rick. They start adding up fast when you do them two, three, or five at a time! ;D
Everyone a beauty, (and good photography, too).

 

[metalmad]

imagine what the vidio is gunna look and sound like ;D
Pete