I have heard many people ask "what size boiler do I need? - Where can I get a small boiler (cheaply)?, etc.
SO the obvious bit of fun is to do the job and show how easy it is - if easy is perhaps not the right word?
So I am converting a small traction engine boiler (less than £20 from E&@y!) and using a minimum cost basis for selection of stuff to make a proper boiler assembly. The boiler was made for 15psi. NWP, which is adequate pressure for a small, well-made and free-running engine to demonstrate it's action.
Background on "toy boilers":
"Toy" boilers generally use a limited amount of fuel and water to run a steam device for a minimum time before the whole thing melts! I.E. The fuel runs out before the water. You have to stop everything and re-fill it with water and fuel before proceeding.
But NO BOILER IS A TOY! Boilers all contain steam - which is HOT, and hurts any flesh is can get at. Flames from fires to heat the boiler are less likely to burn - because you can see flames. but Hot metal also hurts, and, like steam, you can't see the heat!
So a "proper" boiler, that can be used as a teaching aid, or just a bit of sensible fun, has a number of extra requirements.
The burner may or may not have a continuous fuel supply, as the water level is manageable during running.
When completed I shall determine "how big" and engine can be run with this boiler. - Which is really down to what the engine is doing versus the size of burner.
Using a proprietary boiler it should save anyone having a risk "built-in" through a lack of training or expertise in making a boiler from scratch.
My build "log" is attached - as far as it goes so far. Warts 'n all!
K2
SO the obvious bit of fun is to do the job and show how easy it is - if easy is perhaps not the right word?
So I am converting a small traction engine boiler (less than £20 from E&@y!) and using a minimum cost basis for selection of stuff to make a proper boiler assembly. The boiler was made for 15psi. NWP, which is adequate pressure for a small, well-made and free-running engine to demonstrate it's action.
Background on "toy boilers":
"Toy" boilers generally use a limited amount of fuel and water to run a steam device for a minimum time before the whole thing melts! I.E. The fuel runs out before the water. You have to stop everything and re-fill it with water and fuel before proceeding.
But NO BOILER IS A TOY! Boilers all contain steam - which is HOT, and hurts any flesh is can get at. Flames from fires to heat the boiler are less likely to burn - because you can see flames. but Hot metal also hurts, and, like steam, you can't see the heat!
So a "proper" boiler, that can be used as a teaching aid, or just a bit of sensible fun, has a number of extra requirements.
- A water gauge - so you can monitor the water level.
- A safety pressure relief valve - to avoid the boiler becoming a bomb.
- A water feed pump - so you can top-up water while running the engine.
- A pressure gauge - so you can manage the pressure at a level appropriate for the demands of the engine.
- A blow-down valve - so you can empty the boiler without dismantling anything.
The burner may or may not have a continuous fuel supply, as the water level is manageable during running.
When completed I shall determine "how big" and engine can be run with this boiler. - Which is really down to what the engine is doing versus the size of burner.
Using a proprietary boiler it should save anyone having a risk "built-in" through a lack of training or expertise in making a boiler from scratch.
My build "log" is attached - as far as it goes so far. Warts 'n all!
K2
