Boiler for putting around in small dinghy.

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I should leave the painting until after the steam test... just in case?

I was aware from the start of this project that the steel cylinder was from a proprietary pressure vessel - an hydraulic oil reservoir or something? - irrelevant - The point being that as it had an unknown history, and I know you have checked the hoop stress is OK, if the flange/bolts/gasket/end-plates were inadequate, then the Hydraulic test would at least give you some idea that it isn't going to explode before or when the steam pressure gets to Safety Blow-off limit.
160psi is a good first hydraulic check, but you should really go over 200psi if you plan for 100psi NWP. Otherwise it could be embarrassing if you take it to an inspector and it fails over 160psi, but below his test pressure.
Maybe a different (smaller-ram) pump will do the job? Or a piece of tube for an extension over your pump lever? (If the pump is strong enough?) - The pump should be capable of 120% or more of NWP - which it is - so there is a level of safety that you can add water even if something goes awry and pressure goes over normal control limits (safety-blow pressure). - And I just like to use the feed-pump to do the hydraulic test in my garage! - I try to follow the Irish Quality and Safety moto: "to be sure to be sure". Or the New York version: "the check must be checked before the cheque can be chequed!"
Enjoy!
K2
 
I'm about to plumb up my steam blower and I was wondering if anyone does anything fancy, like make nozzles? On the last one I just kinda flattened the end of the tube a little which was an improvement over just an open tube. It seems like it's popular on locos to just have a tube ring with some holes drilled in it?
 
Hi Rolphill,
You asked, so my advice is as follows.
But first I shall explain (for uninitiated readers) all I know about "chimneys"..

A "Chimney" seems to be any simply "pipe" - often brick or stone construction - when in a factory, house, or other building, and these latterly were tapered internally to accelerate the flue gases from smoky coal or wood fires and increase draught though the fire - and power from the boiler.
A flue is any passage carrying exhaust gases to where they can be discharged.
A chimney, or funnel, can have a decorative or plain exterior.
Titanic had 3 funnels for boiler exhaust, and one "dummy" funnel containing other vents - e.g. from kitchens, etc, - purely as a decorative device to make it look more powerful than sister ships with 3 funnels.
What "decorative style" of funnel do you propose to use? - A simple straight pipe to get flue gases above your head when in the boat?

Why do chimneys draw?​

The purpose of a chimney is to take the products of combustion (smoke and gasses) from the appliance to the atmosphere outside the building. At the same time, to draw air for combustion into the appliance. This movement of combustion air and exhaust is called draft.

The difference in pressure and temperature between the air/gasses inside the chimney flue and the outside air creates movement. (warmer, lighter gasses in the flue tend to move upward).

To keep the pressure conditions favourable, we need a tall column of warm air inside the chimney, and cooler air outside. The warm air will tend to rise, drawing the exhaust from the appliance out. As air exits the chimney, fresh air for combustion is drawn into the appliance.

FOR THE STEAM BOILER:

We need to "draw the fire" when first lighting the fuel by various methods, as there is insufficient heat/power in the natural draught to get the fire going quickly, and raising steam. Generally, an efficient boiler will cause some restriction to flue gases as it extracts heat from the gases. But we want maximum performance from the boiler - as we are not crossing oceans with limited fuel supplies! So we have boilers with less restriction, and, like with railway locomotives, usually force the fire by use of engine exhaust steam as a blast up the chimney to increase air drawn through the fire and hence increase the rate of combustion, and the quantity of available steam.
But before the fire gets going properly, and to speed-up steam production when the engine is not running, or lightly loaded, we have an additional blast-pipe feeding steam to a Nozzle/jet at the base of the funnel to increase the draw....

The blast nozzle can be: as you describe " a ring with just some holes in it"..
The whole effectiveness of a blower is achieved by the effect of a jet in an annulus, of specific dimensions, to extract as much flue gas as possible with the minimum of "blower steam".
So the "ring with holes in it" is precisely positioned and with specific hole sizes as designed and developed by the original designer.
And there are a number of designs you can use:
  1. A single jet centred in the chimney/funnel = a long narrow tube - This needs to be at least 7 x the diameter of the tube to have optimum effect. - This may be best for your Chimney/funnel?
  2. A venturi that starts as wide as the chimney/funnel/flue is planned to be... Tapering for 1 1/2 diameters: reduces to about 2/3rds the diameter, then expands to full diameter over the next 5 1/2 diameters.... This can give a large increase on the efficiency of the blower, but the minimum diameter must not restrict the fire when there is no blower, unless the fire is only meant to be forced by either the blower or the engine exhaust steam. (As in a loco!),
  3. Instead of a single jet, a ring with a very small gap can be used to blow up the walls of the chimney/flue/funnel....
  4. Or a ring of very small jets can achieve the same thing, either around the central exhaust from the engine, or around the periphery of the funnel, chimney/flue..
To make jets/nozzles these can simply be a small hole drilled in the end of a piece of threaded bar - may be hexagon? - so you can remove it and fit a different size?
It may be a finely tapered hole (from the inside) to a flat end face, or finely tapered outer part - such as to maximise the exiting steam velocity (as in steam nozzles feeding steam into a turbine). - These double tapered nozzles should follow the same rules as a venturi in the funnel.
- Incidentally, it is called a "funnel" on ships as it was tapered (internally if not externally) to accelerate the exhaust smoke so it passed up and clear of the deck of a ship. Captains hated "smoke in their eyes" when there was a following wind... so the Funnel was developed to shorten the original tall narrow smoke-stacks seen on early ships that had steam and sail... or Mississippi paddle boats, etc.
Locomotive funnels have complex interior shapes, often with a decorative or aerodynamic outer shape.
https://images.app.goo.gl/sd4yKgn9ebFY7NzC6
https://images.app.goo.gl/gCNViyGYf5stpozT6
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I hope this is informative, and of some use so you can decide how to arrange your blast pipe/nozzle(s)?
I suggest you consider the funnel exterior that you want. Then that may be affected by the internal shape of the funnel...
WITHOUT any blast it should be as much as 4 x the cross-sectional area of the grate opening area. Bet you had not considered that one! So then you have to consider if you will have a forced blast when the engine is running using the exhaust steam, or if on salt water (sea) then you may have a condenser on the exhaust from the engine and thus no engine exhaust to make the blast. A condenser increases total efficiency and engine delivered power... by effectively increasing the pressure different between steam-in and exhaust-out of the engine by the vacuum created in the condenser.... Both my model boats have condensers, but I use gas fire in the boilers..
WITH blast up the funnel, it can be whatever you decide from the above explanations.
As to "SIZE" of funnel (cross-section area) and blast pipe nozzle CSA, then that depends on the engine, permissible back-pressure (creates a small loss of shaft power), etc.
For a recent "tuning" of a loco - 5 inch gauge Simplex:
Problem: While it had an excellent blower, that could work at very low steam pressure to draw the fire to quickly raise steam, the steam test failed because the Safety Relief valves (as per original design) could not cope with the fully fuelled fire, with full blower, and the pressure rose well above the safety limit very quickly. The remedy was to rduce the maximum blower by reducing the hole at the nozzle. (previously drilled larger than original design by someone to increase the "blow"!). At first we reduced the blower jet hole too much. It was fine for the steam test, and when more than 50% of steam pressure was available. But in service, the engine lost steam pressure on one part of the track, and needed extra "Blow" when the engine slowed considerably on an incline. So it was common practice to turn on the blower for this incline. But at less than 50% of normal steam pressure, there was insufficient "blow" with the small jet. So we increased the jet by the next numbered drill until we had a satisfactory blower at 30% of "normal" pressure, and running was acceptable. Also the re-test of the steam test showed the Safety Relief valves to be adequately sized when this blower was turned full-on and the fully fuelled and watered boiler was not using ay steam for the engine. It then passed the steam test.
So I cannot tell you what size of blower jet/nozzle you need, until we discuss further with actual dimensions of the boiler, fire-box, flues, etc.
OK? (Sorry if this was a bit long... but "you asked"!)
K2
 
Look what I found.. Don't trust me, trust Wiki!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Funne...the smokestack,commonly referred to as stacks.
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And this comment:
"
Locomotive chimneys actually had a chimney liner inside suspended on four long round bars threaded at the top with nuts and locknuts to attach them to the top of the smokebox. We aligned them up with a bar across the top of the chimney and a string line with a weight at the bottom which lined up with the centre of the blast pipe. This alignment was always looked upon as critical to the smokebox performance and therefore steaming.
As I said earlier the chimney liner internal design, blast pipe height, and depth of chimney liner into the smokebox was a rather involved study.
In practice for our purposes I have always relied on the old third-third and third principle for the height of the blast pipe, gap between the blast pipe and petticoat pipe to the top of the smokebox.
The air flow into the grate is also important and the American philosophy was to provide a 20% of the grate area as an opening in the ashpan while in the UK 15% was looked upon as being adequate.
No doubt today with computer modelling there would be a much more scientific approach than the perhaps empirical thoughts of yesterday.
The outside of the chimney might mildly be to the designers taste, but of course there would not want to be a surfeit of cast iron in the chimney production or increased cost and locomotive weight."
from -
https://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/4914/chimney-design

K2
 
Interesting info, I'll have to reread it later when I'm at work and have a big screen and the mental mood to parse it.

Good news! It's "finished!", well it's the kind of project that'll never be finished, but it's ready for testing. I was too excited to wait until Monday to post my progress, so I'm wearing out my fingers posting this on mobile lol.

I got 1/4in steel brake line for the superheater. Instead of doing a coil, I made it into a zigzag around the perimeter of the shell. It takes a good bit more force than copper to work, especially flaring, but it's far more resistant to kinking. I think I used about 15-20 feet of it for the superheater. It will hopefully help compensate for my low boiler surface and small steam space.
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Then I added fiberglass insulation, and finally the outer shell. I used aluminum sheet for the outer shell because it's easier to work with than steel. I held it in place with pipe strap hose clamps.

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The stack is 3in duct. I used an 8in to 6in duct reducer, and pop riveted it all together. It's quite sturdy.

This morning I tried to do the first firing, and had some success, but also ran into some issues. First, it had no trouble reaching 40psi with just a bit of fire once it was warmed up. Also, the sizable superheater gave nice dry steam. However, I need to learn how to start and maintain an anthracite fire. I haven't trimmed the stack yet, so it's like 3 feet tall, and gives plenty of draft for a wood fire, but not quite enough for an anthracite fire.

This led to the second issue. The steam blower was too short and somehow ended up not pointed into the stack, but at a wall. It was also super full of water. So I turned on the steam blower and it sprayed a huge slug of water all over the fire, all but putting it out. I disconnected the blower tubing from the valve, amd opened it, and a whole lot of water came out before I got steam. The blower valve is at the bottom of the cross on the turret, so there's a large area for condensed water to collect.

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So, once it was cooled off, I removed the stack, and the blower tube. I ended up deciding to remake the tube out of steel and add a couple loops of superheater just like the main superheater, as well as make it stick farther up into the stack. I didn't feel like redoing all the plumbing to move the blower valve, so the superheater should help with water slugs, and make the blower far more efficient in general. This used up all 25 feet of steel tubing, so thats quite a bit of superheating.

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I hope to do another test soon, although I have to figure out how to get all the coal out, and get some charcoal for starting.

I also plan on adding a stack thermometer. I also want to put a thermometer on the superheater outlet, to see what steam temperatures I'm getting. I need to make sure I'm not exceeding the thermal limits of my engine o-rings. That can be fixed with uninsulated steam line "de-superheater", or removing a couple loops of superheater.
 

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Excellent news! I think you have a bit of snagging to do, but the blower sounds good. But I would position the blower nozzle aligned to blow straight up the middle of the chimney, for the bottom of thechimney, or even as much as 3 inches below. (If there is space to the t of the boiler).
Now enjoy the steam with an engine!
Looking forward to hearing more how this develops into a working steam boat.
K2
 
Another disappointing attempt. I got it going nicely with wood, turned on the steam blower and it seemed to increase the flames well, but the anthracite didn't really work. The anthracite was burning, it was nice and orange inside the pile, but it just doesn't put out serious heat without A LOT of forced air. This matches my experience using it in a blacksmithing forge. It burns very hot, but needed a big pile, and a hair dryer on high to burn well. If my firebox was twice as deep and the full diameter it would probably work, but anthracite and square cube rule doesn't mix very well. I don't think I'll be able to use anthracite. I might try one more time, emptying the firebox and using only rice anthracite coal for higher surface area / volume, but my hopes are not high.

On the bright side, the steam blower superheater works very well! No more water slugs, minimum spray, and I think I don't have to open the valve as much as I did before to get equivalent "woosh" sound.

So I have to figure out what I'm going to do. I have a few directions I'd like to try. Burning wood is a pain because I have to get little 1x1 sized sticks and then saw them into 3 inch long chunks. I might try to get a bag of wood chips? That would be about the right size. Of course I traded away my wood chipper a couple years ago.

Another option to try might be wood pellets? My first boiler ever was a monotube with a homemade pellet burner that was all electronically controlled. The design and construction was horrible back then but it did make steam. Also I could try a mix of wood pellets and rice anthracite. Some people have successfully run their scale locos on a mix of 15-50% anthracite and bituminous coal, depending on the loco.

Otherwise, I was considering oil burning. I used a little squirt can with 2 stroke oil on the fire whenever it needed a "boost" and it was quite effective. I could cover the grate with lava rocks and drip oil, or I have a small atomizing sprayer nozzle I bought some time ago. It's rated for 1gal/hr which is more than double the heat I need, but I can try to make a smaller nozzle or something.
 
Use a small diesel engine injector and an electric (pressure) fuel pump? Used with diesel mat give you suitable atomisation and combustion. Especially sprayed against a fire-brick dam/wall? - or up at the bottom of the boiler tank? Turbulence from the air-fuel mixture hitting a wall improves mixing and combustion.
Using oil heating /vapourising coils and gas jet with air intake is just less convenient for pre-heating and lighting. But clean and easy to manage once hot. Needs a pressure fuel supply. Electric pump or pressure tank.
(5 minutes to light a kerosene blow-lamp, not instant like the Propane burner!).
Burner design is a trade in its own right. Gas burners can be purchased cheaply, but making an oil pre-heater/vapouriser is the hard bit to get right.
K2
 
Another disappointing attempt. I got it going nicely with wood, turned on the steam blower and it seemed to increase the flames well, but the anthracite didn't really work. The anthracite was burning, it was nice and orange inside the pile, but it just doesn't put out serious heat without A LOT of forced air. This matches my experience using it in a blacksmithing forge. It burns very hot, but needed a big pile, and a hair dryer on high to burn well. If my firebox was twice as deep and the full diameter it would probably work, but anthracite and square cube rule doesn't mix very well. I don't think I'll be able to use anthracite. I might try one more time, emptying the firebox and using only rice anthracite coal for higher surface area / volume, but my hopes are not high.

On the bright side, the steam blower superheater works very well! No more water slugs, minimum spray, and I think I don't have to open the valve as much as I did before to get equivalent "woosh" sound.

So I have to figure out what I'm going to do. I have a few directions I'd like to try. Burning wood is a pain because I have to get little 1x1 sized sticks and then saw them into 3 inch long chunks. I might try to get a bag of wood chips? That would be about the right size. Of course I traded away my wood chipper a couple years ago.

Another option to try might be wood pellets? My first boiler ever was a monotube with a homemade pellet burner that was all electronically controlled. The design and construction was horrible back then but it did make steam. Also I could try a mix of wood pellets and rice anthracite. Some people have successfully run their scale locos on a mix of 15-50% anthracite and bituminous coal, depending on the loco.

Otherwise, I was considering oil burning. I used a little squirt can with 2 stroke oil on the fire whenever it needed a "boost" and it was quite effective. I could cover the grate with lava rocks and drip oil, or I have a small atomizing sprayer nozzle I bought some time ago. It's rated for 1gal/hr which is more than double the heat I need, but I can try to make a smaller nozzle or something.
I make a suggestion here before you look at different fuels. If you have access to a oxygen meter and a temperature gage its possible to make a good guess at its performance. Better yet if you can get your hands on one of the newer combustion analyzers. So if you need more air it may mean that the grate is not working properly. But going to a oil or gas might not solve it if there is not enough heat transfer surface area. You can oil the anthracite to give you more fuel. That is an old stoker method used to get a bit more heat in them. There may be some spreadsheets on this site which will help calculate your efficiency. But start with a combustion analysis. The heat is there you just got to get it in the right place. Now oil burns much hotter and can be put in a smaller furnace. It does require more safety equipment and a lot more attention from the operator.
 
The flue and blower combination needs a look. I can't see how tall it is.
IF the blower nozzle is placed about 2~3 inches below the 3"dia chimney tube and the tube is more than 2 ft long, I can see it should produce some draught. But it needs "enough draught" so the wood fire - even with fire-door open - is pulling roaring flames up through the boiler. Not like the photo in post #65. That looks like it had just been lit, and not a steam raising fire. Was that with blower working at upwards of 50% of boiler NWP? (Photos were at zero pressure!).
Recently a loco with a blower that was OK at 50psi and up meant the loco stalled on a hill because when the steam was used so quickly by the engine at fully open regulator, that the pressure dropped to 30psi. When the blower was turned ON it could not raise steam at the low steam pressure.
Some (good) boilers I have seen have a good draw when the blower is just generating "a light breeze" - like blowing on your hand fairly gently (NEVER test a steam blower with flesh - YOU WILL COOK INSTANTLY with steam). But some have - and need - blowers "like a hand-held air jet blower" that were used with 100psi compressed air for de-swarfing machines, etc. (And blowing swarf into people's' eyes and requiring operations to remove!). You describe a "Whoosh" - so I guess the blower may be adequate? - Let's see the fire on full blower at pressure. It should easily lift the safety valve (just above NWP).
You have LARGE spaces for flue gases around the boiler and a 3in chimney, so I don't think that is the problem. So the suggestion that the grate is too restricting is a likely cause of lack of draught? - Or too little steam from the blower in the large chimney?
When the engine is running, the exhaust should all go up the chimney though its own blower nozzle. So how does the blower compare to that? - Or do you have a condenser for engine exhaust steam?
Incidentally, the club recently acquired some proper steam coal - hard shiny black stuff that got the drivers excited. £65 per bag - I think 10kgs? (Something like the energy from 4 US gallons of gasoline?). They reckoned it was "twice as good" as the house coal we had previously.
Tell us more of this evaluation so I can make more (stupid?) suggestions?
Cheers!
K2 ;)
 
Yes the above picture was when it was just lit. The stack is 3in x ~24in. The blower nozzle is about a third of the way up the pipe, 1/4od tube with the end flattened into a slot. I'll probably be revisiting it at some point, especially since I haven't added the engine exhaust pipe to it yet.

In any case, I found out the feed store in the next town a few miles away sells "soft coal" according to them. $20 for a ~50lb bag. I'll be picking up a bag tonight to try. I'm not surprised, as they also have a very small annual steam and tractor show, about the size of a supermarket parking lot. Although last time I was there it was more like a political rally with a steam traction engine on the side, so I haven't been there in a couple years.

In the meantime I've been working on adding a small water pump to my engine. It'll be driven off the piston rod clevis on one piston. 8mm diameter x ~1.5in stroke. So that's about 1.9cc per revolution. Estimated steam consumption per revolution is about 0.26cc. It'll be interesting to see if it works well.

Speaking of the piston rod, it's a 12mm hardened steel rod with chrome plating (threading the end for the piston was a nightmare). The "crosshead" is actually a linear ball bearing. Now I ran this engine on steam for maybe an hours worth, two years ago, and then it sat in the barn. The bearings still roll smoothly, and the piston rod is still very nice. However I plan on keeping an eye on these bearings just in case they sieze up due to rust or something. However they shouldn't get much water exposure. The path from the cylinder is an o-ring, followed by an open cavity with a drain hole, followed by another o-ring, followed by the linear bearing with it's own seal. In any case, I have a rod of oilite bronze ready in case I need to replace them with bronze bushings.

The other thing the engine really needs is a new crankshaft. It's currently assembled using the pinch method for two of the throws, and a cross bolt all the way through the rods for the eccentric throws. Sometime this month I'll be getting the last part I need to be able to broach keyways on the CNC at work. So I'll probably be using that to convert the crankshaft to keyway construction at some point in the next few months.

There's also a chance that this engine ends up being just too big for this boiler. If that's the case, I won't be disappointed. I'll just build a new smaller engine, with everything I learned building the previous engine. I'll save this engine for the lamont boiler I have half built in the back of the barn.

I'm excited to see how this new coal performs.
 
Just a couple of things:
  1. The blower:"The blower nozzle is about a third of the way up the pipe, 1/4od tube with the end flattened into a slot."
Please try it mounted at the bottom of the stack, or 1~3in below if there is space? The "cone" of steam that pushes the air up the stack will take something like 21 to 27 inches to expand fully to 3 in diameter. It needs to do so to work properly and pump all the air it can. yours may be "half-power" or less? (Crudely: 2/3 = 0.66. 0.66 x 0.66 = 0.44 => 44%...! It's based on the cross-sectional area of the expanding cone of steam). You need the expanding cone of steam to fill the 3 in diameter, otherwise this "piston" of steam is leaking too badly at the sides to push air up the stack effectively.

2. The end of the blower. - A flat slot won't make a good "cone" of expanding steam to push the air up the stack. I accept that the velocity is based on the cross-sectional area, and the local pressure at the blower exit is "sucking" air up the stack... - but see above - you want a cone of steam not a flat jet - to fill the circular stack pipe. Please use a plug with a drilled hole to be the size of blower you want to try. If it screws into/onto the pipe you can change it for a different size drilled hole easily (?). 3mm or 1/8in. may be a good starting hole - then bigger or smaller....
Bigger if you need more "blow" than the hole permits, a the lowest pressure you pan to run the boiler. (May be 50% of NWP or lower than that? It needs to recover a fire if a mis-managed fire gets too low - it happens when you least need it but need steam for power! - and needs more blow to get back to proper steam raising size...).
Smaller if at "full pressure, full boiler, full fire, full blower", the safety valve cannot contain all the steam being produced and pressure rises more than 10% over NWP. (the certified max working pressure!).

I am still curious to know if you'll have a condenser for the steam exhaust from the engine? - or an exhaust directed up the stack to force the fire?

3. What is the bore, stroke, max. speed and max. running pressure for the engine?

4. "soft coal" - is probably tarry household coal, lights easily, burns freely, but can be smokey and not have enough hard black carbon to get a good bed of red-hot coals. But mixed with your anthracite, you'll get a good mix with trial and error! - Start 50%:50% and adjust up or down until you find the best ratio?

Enjoy! - I am enjoying your story!
K2
 
Yes, I will be exhausting up the stack, no condenser. I'm not dealing with all that complexity at this scale. Plus, I'm kind of intending for this to be a modular steam plant that I can also try and put on my kart frame and putt around.

I'll try reworking the blower so it blows up from below. The only thing is the blowdown piping is kind of in the way. I still have to set up the engine exhaust piping too. I might want to rebuild the stack and adapter assembly to give me more vertical room to set up a more proper venturi shape. This is my preferred kind of project though, where you put it together, play with it a few times, then take it back apart to make improvements.

I got the coal. This coal is less dense than the anthracite, feels more like charcoal while the anthracite was more dense like actual stones. Hitting a piece with the torch releases quite a stench though, while the anthracite burned very clean with just a hint of sulfur. It's a huge bag, and the coal is very large, between fist sized and head sized.

Luckily, the magical tool for crushing it into smaller pieces seems to be an arbor press. It does a very good job of brittle cracking the coal into smaller pieces without hammer or axe blows throwing shards everywhere. Setting the little rotary platter on the press to the gap size you want tends to make chunks of that size. I originally thought I'd have to make some sort of crusher, but apparently crushing the coal with the press is very meditative. I started crushing coal this morning, and next thing I know half an hour had gone by and my alarm to leave for work went off. In that time I'd managed to fill a 5 gallon bucket about a third full, using only 3 chunks out of the bag. It's still dirty work though, I'll want to wear a mask next time. Nobody needs trace radioactive and heavy metal particles in their lungs.

It was raining today, so I'll try out this new coal this weekend hopefully.
 
Good news.
A venturi isn't needed, but can increase "pull" from the exhaust or blower. But good location of the jet should do the trick I guess doubling your draw of air without changing the steam input. But do try the better position, within your constraints, and a proper drilled hole nozzle so you can tune the size. More science than guesswork that way! The engine exhaust should be adjacent to the blower jet, often a common holder/bracket. Just make sure you have a round hole where the steam exits, and it is centred in the stack and aligned to the stack. Ideally 21 to 24 inches of stack length beyond the jets/nozzles. A venturn instead of parallel pipe would be about the same length, but the fire should roar without that complexity.
The right mix of coal-anthracite will be best determined when you have a good blower and plumbed and running engine. Blower only needed when engine not running, or just light running.
All this needs sorting before you can sensibly do a Steam test to prove the safety relief valve function and setting.
I can't remember, but did you complete an hydraulic test at 2 x NWP? When developing a boiler like you are doing, you really need to keep on top of all the safety checks at each stage.
Have fun!
Hope this helps?
K2
 
When the pipe above the jet had a carefully located and designed expanding tube above it counted as a venturi. But many had straight tubes above the jet. Later British locos - maybe post 1930s, but that is a guess... - had venturis above the exhaust jet... as a slightly narrowing, then expanding tube.
I'd have to study this further before suggestING the effort of making one is worthwhile.
But initially, setting the jet in the right place is worthwhile, as are my other suggestions. But that is my "humble opinion", so please do as you chose.
Personally, I think easy and simple set correctly can often be better than a clever solution that is not properly set up. So that's why you should get the blower right, and fuelling sorted, before changing the stack.
And don't ignore the need for a controlled steam test at each improvement, or test firing of the boiler... Better to know the relief valve is functioning adequately at full steam generation than to "just assume/hope it is OK". Or identify if it is innadequate!
K2
 
re: Petticoat:
Your conical 8in to 6in dia reducer then to 3in Dia. IS a petticoat in effect..
On a loco boiler (horizontal, with many flue tubes, carrying coal ash and smoke through the tubes) the larger particles were wont to come out of the flues towards the top of the boiler and get dragged up the stack by the blast. Showering the countryside in hot embers.... But a petticoat protected the blast nozzle draught zone somewhat - like and umbrella - so encouraging the heavier, larger, burning embers to fall down inside the smoke box rather than be drawn up-the-lum. It had minimal effect of draught. That was all down to the speed of steam from the exhaust and blast nozzles, and the location of the nozzles... (or so I reckon!).
Hope that helps?
 
Well, the new coal sure does work! It works very well. It lights easily, and makes a ton of fire and steam. Burns a little bit faster than I expected, but that's fine. I don't think I'm going to really need the blower much except for initial raising of steam. The stack has plenty of natural draft as-is for maintaining a good idle fire. I only ran it for a short time as my daughter was NOT a fan of the safety valve popping off. At full burn the safety valve seemed to have about a 20-30% duty cycle. I might try and make a non popping style relief valve and add it on as a primary relief valve and have this one as a secondary/emergency relief valve.
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There were some issues though. First, the relief valve drained the water VERY FAST. I'm sure this was partially due to extra foaming from a new boiler causing extra water to come out with the steam. However I will want to think about how to mitigate this. The hand pump I thought was oversized is actually a good size, as it takes a couple dozen pumps to fill the sight glass. Once I add the engine, and thus the engine water pump, that should help too. However I do have the option to add an electronic water level sensor as there is a bung on the side of the boiler at a good spot for a water level sensor, and I have an electric feed pump and have done this before. I could even just tie it to an indicator light.

The other thing I noticed was that pressure goes up and down pretty fast, especially when the blower was on. I suppose that is to be expected, given that it's not a big firetube loco boiler and there's only a few cups of water between low and high. With a good fire it takes about a minute or two for it to go from 10-80psi. I'm sure running the engine will stabilize this a bit with the exhaust draft feedback loop.

Other than that, there are a few minor things to address. The firedoor hinge melted again, so I'll have to replace that. I also don't like how much the feed water pipe was flexing, as in the current configuration most of the water in the boiler would drain out if it broke. I'm already adding a boiler side check valve though, as well as flexible tubing between the pump and the boiler. I think I'm going to replace the blower valve with a smaller needle valve, and make a smaller nozzle for it. Also next on the list is piping the engine into the boiler, including the exhaust.

I finished the engine pump, and it seems to work after some fiddling about with leaky drill hole plugs.
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Oh and a bonus, testing the atomizing burner nozzle I had laying around. This test was using <5psi of air and rubbing alcohol.
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What pressure opened the safety? And what pressure closed it?
Water spay in the steam and vapour when the safety operates has a few causes to be checked.
  • Any pollution in the water (old flux, detergents, etc.) Causes foaming and priming will occur when the safety blows. Rinse well with clean water until that drains without any taste...?
  • Water level too high, or insufficient space for water expansion when it boils with the pressure drop as the safety opens. Try again when water is at the bottom of the gauge, not full? Ensure a Min. 2 inches clearance between water and valve entry point?
  • Too sharp a pressure valve action. Your second valve is a good idea.... often 2 valves are used to reduce the pressure drop when the valve pops. I think the Safety relief valve sounds good (not too big) as it closes after venting, (a "MUST") And spends longer closed than open.
WELL DONE! With the steaming achieved.... It sounds typical of Steam tests.... Some fine tuning needed (e.g. blower jet mods are planned..).
K2
 
What pressure opened the safety? And what pressure closed it?
Water spay in the steam and vapour when the safety operates has a few causes to be checked.
  • Any pollution in the water (old flux, detergents, etc.) Causes foaming and priming will occur when the safety blows. Rinse well with clean water until that drains without any taste...?
  • Water level too high, or insufficient space for water expansion when it boils with the pressure drop as the safety opens. Try again when water is at the bottom of the gauge, not full? Ensure a Min. 2 inches clearance between water and valve entry point?
  • Too sharp a pressure valve action. Your second valve is a good idea.... often 2 valves are used to reduce the pressure drop when the valve pops. I think the Safety relief valve sounds good (not too big) as it closes after venting, (a "MUST") And spends longer closed than open.
WELL DONE! With the steaming achieved.... It sounds typical of Steam tests.... Some fine tuning needed (e.g. blower jet mods are planned..).
K2
 

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