Lister Diesel engine build

[nowramfg]

It is about time to continue with this.
The fuel pump is a very complex, for me!, piece to make. I hacked it out of a piece of brass bar, and added a piece as required. The drilling, cross drilling and ball valves were a test of my skills. I did OK, except that when assembled it did not work very well. I discovered just last night that I had made the piston shaft about .040" too short. I made a new one and it now works
The Ti valves have been fitted, and lapped in after numerous tries!. The rockers were cut from 1/2" MS plate and hand filed to shape. The rocker shaft is a piece of 1/8" dia drill rod, drilled each end for split pins.

 

[nowramfg]

The fuel pump now works well, maybe too well! I do not have any way of removing excess fuel, as the bleed off valve that I have on the pump does not seem to do anything. I will have to try and fix that.
The injector appears to work, it does spray a little bit of fuel.
I have timed the cam, a few times, with my timing disc that I drew on AutoCAD. The timing events follow what is a std. Lister cam timing. The injector is set to 20d BTDC.

 

[nowramfg]

I have pulled it all apart. 1 of the head studs stripped out of the crankcase, so I figured it is time to strip it down, detail everything, do the little things that I had left for "later".
The studs were tapped 3/16-32, so I now have them at 10-32, and the crankcase also. I know that there is little to no difference in theory, but the studs were a "loose" fit before. now they are correct.
I am rebuilding/modifying the fuel pump to allow a bleed off of extra fuel.
New rings will also be made, as the first ones seem to have broken in, and worn out!

 

[nowramfg]

I was fortunate enough to be sent a Lister piston casting from the UK. I machine it up on a mandrel, but when I was removing it from the mandrel, the skirt broke off at the lower oil ring groove.
This is a pic of the old piston and the new one, which I am going to use. I made up new rings also.
Eagle eyes will see that I have the piston mounted backwards in the last pic. The new tie rods are also installed here. I did turn the piston around before I fitted the cyl.

 

[nowramfg]

Seeing as I had put off making the lubrication tube/tubes till later, it was now later and time to do it. A piece of K&S 3/16 brass tubing was drilled, cut to size, and 2 pieces of 1/8 copper tube were soldered in and formed to shape. A piece of 5/16 brass hex was machined to make up the RH plug/mount, and a longer piece was machined up with a thru hole and pipe fitting for the LH side. The pipe assy is fitted into the crankcase, the RH plug is screwed in and slides into the end of the 3/16 tube. The LH fitting is then screwed in and inserted slightly into the opp end of the 3/16 tube. Small shoulders on each of the fittings clamp the tube into place.

 

[nowramfg]

Modified the fuel pump and put it all back together today. All the pipes were fixed with compression fittings, all made as I went Many pieces of 1/4 and 5/16 hex rod turned to chips there! Finished off the fuel tank, and piped the fuel bleed to the top.
Now the rocker cover needs to be finished, and the other flywheel and also the crankcase breather. I just finished the air cleaner/ air inlet before supper and it is now fitted.
So this is what it looked like before the air cleaner.

 

[mu38&Bg#]

How does the pump vary injection volume?

 

[nowramfg]

How does the pump vary injection volume?

Unfortunately it doesn't.
The bleeder screw on the side of the pump bleeds off what isnt required. This is the arrangement that George Punter used with a little success. He acknowledges that it isn't ideal, nor perfected.

 

[nowramfg]

Sorry that I have not posted much lately. I have been doing things, just they seem to be the same things over and over. I have built a new injector, and am now rebuilding/modifying the pump. I have built 2 new pistons for the pump, to tighten it up so as to get "lots" of pressure, but I now realize that my pump is maybe too big in capacity for the engine. The original model had a 4mm bore, mine has a 4.8mm. That is an increase of about 44% in volume! Damn math bites you in the butt.:hDe:
I will make a new pump with a 1/8" bore, and see how that goes.
This is the new injector in pieces.

 

[radial1951]

Sorry that I have not posted much lately. I have been doing things, just they seem to be the same things over and over. I have built a new injector, and am now rebuilding/modifying the pump. I have built 2 new pistons for the pump, to tighten it up so as to get "lots" of pressure, but I now realize that my pump is maybe too big in capacity for the engine. The original model had a 4mm bore, mine has a 4.8mm. That is an increase of about 44% in volume! Damn math bites you in the butt.:hDe:
I will make a new pump with a 1/8" bore, and see how that goes.
This is the new injector in pieces.

Thanks for the update, interesting project. You mentioned that the timing events follow standard Lister cam timing. Would you mind posting the valve timing numbers? Do diesels have different valve timing requirements to petrol engines?
Looking forward to seeing the run video.

Thanks and Regards, RossG
radial1951
_______________________

 

[nowramfg]

Standard Lister 6/1 timing.
Inlet opens 5d BTDC
Inlet Closes 15d ABDC
Exhaust opens 45d BBDC
Exhaust closes 5d ATDC
I found this on a site for Listers.

 

[radial1951]

Standard Lister 6/1 timing.
Inlet opens 5d BTDC
Inlet Closes 15d ABDC
Exhaust opens 45d BBDC
Exhaust closes 5d ATDC
I found this on a site for Listers.

Hi Patrick

Thanks for that. I have been collecting cam timing numbers for my next project.

There is such a huge variation in the numbers, both among the models and the full size engines. But how do I decide? This engine will earn its keep in a plane, not just for occasional static display running. I can see what will happen, the cam drum will be the last part to be made, while I procrastinate about 1 degree here or there...

Regards, RossG
radial1951
_____________

 

[nowramfg]

Been working on pump and injector and new head. I think the steel head will be a big help. The pump put out 50psi(3.5 bar) tonight, a long way off the 50 bar that was suggested as maybe being required.

 

[nowramfg]

This is the new , new pump. It has a .125" bore, and the stroke is adjustable.

View attachment NEW fuelpump.pdf

 

[nowramfg]

Sorry I haven't been around for a while, but I sold my house and moved about 60 miles closer to the daughters and grandkids. I sold my lathe and milling machine, and am going to replace them with 2 new machines. I have to pick them up in the next week and get them installed and running. BusyBee Tools in Vancouver have the items I want and the deposit was paid a few weeks ago.

 

[Phnug]

Hi, I'm starting one of these engines, early days yet, did you settle on a final pump/injector arrangement that worked? I would really appreciate any comment.
Thanks Ian

 

[nowramfg]

No, after 3 attempts at getting an injector to work, I have just put it aside for another day.

 

[Jasonb]

As the first post say the article (including the drawings) was published in Model Engineer magazine who still hold the copyright. Tracking down some second hand copies would be the way to obtain the drawings alternative option would be to take out a digital subscription to odel Engineer magazine and then you will find the articles in the digital archive. It starts in 2013

https://www.classicmagazines.co.uk/...me-push-2022-digital&utm_campaign=title-sites

 

[ruben]

I attacked the head next. I cut 1 from a piece of steel that we had, took it home and proceeded to machine it as per the ME drawings. I cut it as per the ME drawings. Guess what,, the machining drawings were based on a 50mm square head, the cut drawings showed a 55mm x 50 mm head. I scrapped that 1 and cut 1 from 6061 Alum. In the parts pic attached you can see the steel head in the background.
I decided that since I was not using C.I. for the head, I should make up some brass inserts that would serve as the valve seats and guides. I made them a tight press/loktite fit into the head.
Seeing as I work on a RoushYates powered 360 c.i. Sprinter, I have access to some used titanium bolts now and then. I decided to try and make the valves from a couple of 1/4" dia Ti. bolts. I tried one and it works well.

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You have plans for these piece

 

[ruben]

hola me gustaria saber por donde van los canales de aceite de los cojinetes del cigueñal