BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
As far as I can recall 90 weight gear oil ! I've no Idea of the manufacturer it was given to me in a glass pickle jar as being OK !
Certainly not as thin as the old stuff, it went all over the place when I loosened the cover.
Lets Talk 6X4 Bandsaws !
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As far as I can recall 90 weight gear oil ! I've no Idea of the manufacturer it was given to me in a glass pickle jar as being OK !
Certainly not as thin as the old stuff, it went all over the place when I loosened the cover.
Use 90 weight too for 40 years in my saws.
I have own 3 6x4 saws the first two was use for a saw so welders or machinist could cut parts as did other work.
They both work great and help cheep the larger saw cutting big parts.
I did have replace the motors on both.
The only problem I have is blades braking.
Dave
I have own 3 6x4 saws the first two was use for a saw so welders or machinist could cut parts as did other work.
They both work great and help cheep the larger saw cutting big parts.
I did have replace the motors on both.
The only problem I have is blades braking.
Dave
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Thank You for the info.
--ShopShoe
--ShopShoe
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I just stumbled across my other clamp and was thinking, just in case someone wants to cut very small stock. That clamp I saw on youtube "cklickspring" made a built video, some time ago and ofcourse the clamp was much better looking.
I is good for cutting small round or hex stock. I use it mostly on the vertical saw, ocasionally with the angle grinder.
As far as I recall the click spring original also had a cross drilling function.
Greeting Timo
I is good for cutting small round or hex stock. I use it mostly on the vertical saw, ocasionally with the angle grinder.
As far as I recall the click spring original also had a cross drilling function.
Greeting Timo
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
I wrote thos up in -------------2018 but the detals should be in the British Museum! and also subject tp a Patent. It's a long tome since I originally commented
It is ascribed to Commsnder W.T. Barker of the Royal Navy- or as some of us Brycreeme Boys would dub it-- the Grey Finnel Line,
Certainly, it was in the Model Engineer mag - pre-war, described by GHT in Model engineer's Workshop and I guess the kit is still a Hemingway one and so on.
I had the rather better one from GHT called the Universal Pillar Tool but the firsdt one was given to me and of wwelded construction buut I have a Mk2 and it's rather rusty from when my workshop roof was blown off for the 2nd time//
So the finger plate not new and NOT as good as the original.
Sorry and all that
N
It is ascribed to Commsnder W.T. Barker of the Royal Navy- or as some of us Brycreeme Boys would dub it-- the Grey Finnel Line,
Certainly, it was in the Model Engineer mag - pre-war, described by GHT in Model engineer's Workshop and I guess the kit is still a Hemingway one and so on.
I had the rather better one from GHT called the Universal Pillar Tool but the firsdt one was given to me and of wwelded construction buut I have a Mk2 and it's rather rusty from when my workshop roof was blown off for the 2nd time//
So the finger plate not new and NOT as good as the original.
Sorry and all that
N
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Dave, I have used a lot of low-cost carbon steel blades (mostly from Harbor Freight) through the years. The finer pitch blades (24tpi) have generally lasted okay, but I have had poor results with their larger pitch blades (10tpi) even though it would be far more appropriate for cutting through 1" steel - they generally break sooner rather than later.
I have long read how much better and longer lasting bi-metal vari-pitch blades are. I am just such a cheapskate that I have been reluctant to spend the money - $6.99 for the carbon-steel blades, and they get the job done, even if the ones that last the longest (24tpi) take a long time to saw through heavier metal. Meanwhile, the prices I typically see on Lennox or Starret blades are around $30 per blade - are they really 5x better, 5x longer lasting?
Well ... after some frustration with the short life of both a 10tpi and a 18tpi carbon steel blade, I decided to take the plunge ... but I got diverted when I saw that there are some (presumably made in the far east) off-brand bi-metal vari-pitch blades available on Amazon for about half the price. I decided to buy one and try it out. Here is the one I bought: Imachinist S6412121418 Bi-Metal Band Saw Blades 64-1/2" X 1/2" X 14/18tpi for Cutting Soft Metal: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific; I got it for $16.99.
The verdict so far: it definitely cuts much faster than the 24tpi carbon steel blades, has lasted much longer than the 10tpi or 18tpi carbon steel blades, and has handled any thickness of metal I have used it on with no fuss. The last couple of cuts have not been straight down vertically, which might suggest that the set is worn more on one side than the other ... but it may also be a function of the fact that I have been having some trouble getting my blade guides adjusted (long story there that includes some of the relatively poor design of the saw itself). I will need to go a bit longer to come to any final conclusions about its value vs. the cheap blades, and of course to do justice to the topic, I really need to poney up the $30 for a Starret or Lennox and see how "the real thing" performs. (Isn't it odd that we can plunk down hundreds of dollars on a machine tool, but hate to spend much money on the tooling for it - or is that just me?)
Certainly not advocating for this brand, and no affiliation other than having bought one (and only one) - just sharing my experience thus far.
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
I was brought up to determine the number of teeth from the thickness of the metal.
Whether it is right or not is another matter
Whether it is right or not is another matter
That's always been my understanding - I seem to remember a rule-of-thumb to have at least 3 teeth in the cut at any time. That would suggest that 10tpi is suitable for cutting ~3/8" thick or thicker material; 18tpi is suitable for cutting ~.170" or thicker material; and 24tpi is suitable for cutting ~1/8" or thicker material. But that's where the blades seem to stop - nothing finer than 24tpi that I have commonly seen, so if one is cutting, say, 1/16" or thinner sheet metal, even the 24tpi blade is too coarse. At least in theory.I was brought up to determine the number of teeth from the thickness of the metal.
Whether it is right or not is another matter
I don't know what the rule-of-thumb is for a vari-pitch blade, but the 14/18 vari-pitch noted above has seemed to handle anything from .125" wall tubing to 1" thick stock on edge to 4" wide stock, all without any chatter or fuss. Again, not to be taken as an endorsement, and see my note above about not cutting straight the last few times ...
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
I think thaat there is a formula but a mnimum of contach with 3 teeth seems fair enough.
Hoever, I'm happy to be advised
Norman
Hoever, I'm happy to be advised
Norman
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi Andy, Norman, Guys,
There is a chap in Leeds who will make almost any blade that you want. He currently charges a flat £10 for a 6X4 Bi-metal bandsaw blade, your choice of the number of teeth. From 4-6 tpi upto 14-16 tpi.
Based on his advice I'm currently using a 12-14 tpi blade as a general purpose one. I've cut cast iron, steel, brass, aluminium and bronze with mine and no blade breakages. Though bronze is quite difficult and really needs a coarse blade.
PS: I also have the original blade supplied with the bandsaw when it was new ! Though I think 4 tpi would be more useful for wood.
There is a chap in Leeds who will make almost any blade that you want. He currently charges a flat £10 for a 6X4 Bi-metal bandsaw blade, your choice of the number of teeth. From 4-6 tpi upto 14-16 tpi.
Based on his advice I'm currently using a 12-14 tpi blade as a general purpose one. I've cut cast iron, steel, brass, aluminium and bronze with mine and no blade breakages. Though bronze is quite difficult and really needs a coarse blade.
PS: I also have the original blade supplied with the bandsaw when it was new ! Though I think 4 tpi would be more useful for wood.
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
Details please and does he do wood cuttomg ones too.
I have just bought a Titan wood bandsaw from Screwfix.
Off topic, but I have been 'wood butchering' as if there was no tomrrow
The Quorn modifications to the old Mark 1 are now in progress.
Making 'test poeces' in timber.
Best Wishes
Norman from the Woodcutter's Ball
I have just bought a Titan wood bandsaw from Screwfix.
Off topic, but I have been 'wood butchering' as if there was no tomrrow
The Quorn modifications to the old Mark 1 are now in progress.
Making 'test poeces' in timber.
Best Wishes
Norman from the Woodcutter's Ball
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Haha, now I am crying ...So the finger plate not new and NOT as good as the original.
Sorry and all that
N
... , because you say it is NOT good.My work colleague used to say "Something new is something good forgotten old!" I gave up hope quite some time ago that I will ever have some really new idea. Some kid in the USA had the great new idea to let UBER cars travel in a fixed time schedule on frequently used routes, transport more than one customer at a time. Someone commented "Congrats, you just invented the BUS!".
This was just a beginners project, but at least now I learned the vocabulary for the tool. So I just copied a "bus" ....
Greetings Timo
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Hello,
I am only using a vertical band saw.
I had bit frustration with the cheap blades, because in the hobby I sometimes cut the "mystery steel" and it can ruin a carbon blade in a pinch.
So I asked the people where I buy my steel were they buy their blades, they gave me the contact of their saw supplier.
I asked the lady at the saw supplier, what she suggests. They sold me some blade that was half as long for double the price, but it has the right number of teeth, better material and just works much better.
The CNC guys have one trick, to cut too thin material with a too coarse blade by infeeding at a controlled rate, then the tooth cannot grab and the blade cuts on the edge. (like a fly cutter). I guess that can be done also for the home shop with a mechanised down feed of some sort.
My contour saw has an integrated blade welder, so I can (have to) make the loop myself. Someone was welding blades, clamping them on an Aluminium Block and just Tig welding them. Heat up to cherry red, let cool down on air to anneal the weld. Grind reasonable flat. For a broken band it might work if still long enough.
Dedicated blade welders can be bought stand alone. (snatching some broken belts from someone with a bigger saw for free?)
Greetings Timo
jack620
Well-Known Member
Haha, now I am crying ...
It looks good to me Timo.
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Details please and does he do wood cuttomg ones too.
I have just bought a Titan wood bandsaw from Screwfix.
Off topic, but I have been 'wood butchering' as if there was no tomrrow
The Quorn modifications to the old Mark 1 are now in progress.
Making 'test poeces' in timber.
Best Wishes
Norman from the Woodcutter's Ball
Hi Norman,
Yes he will make up a blade to your requirements. Next time I go there I will ask for you !
Is it blades for the Titan that you are looking for ? If so you might be out of luck, those blades are only 1/4" inch wide I think that he doesn't stock anything smaller than 1/2" inch wide.
I bought a "Titan" bandsaw from Screwfix a while ago, before I got the 6X4 bandsaw. I modified it hoping that I could get it to run slow enough for cutting steel ! I did improve its cutting for aluminium and brasses. But found that it was really only any good for wood.
goldstar31
Well-Known Member
Fine but there is better!
I used to like motor cars and my late wife had a rolls Royce, I had a clapped out 1937 Morris 8 that cost me £5-. I soon caught up
We both retired at 55 and when she died I gave the cars away. There is a still a classic Mercedes SLK 230 looking brand new i the garage and my son is folling about with Cotroen 2CV but has a another new Mercedes!
Tonight, I am drinking at the workingmen's club pn Famous Grouse whisky but on Sunday might I'm in the Conservaticlib drinking finest maly, Monday I'm in my 2nd best morning suit and with a solid gold Waltham but today, I', off to gave coffee with a multi millionaire who owns 2 factories and I', wearing a short that my lste wife wore more than 5 years ago.
It's a qusestion of judgement
Norman
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Fine but there is better!
I used to like motor cars and my late wife had a rolls Royce, I had a clapped out 1937 Morris 8 that cost me £5-. I soon caught up
We both retired at 55 and when she died I gave the cars away. There is a still a classic Mercedes SLK 230 looking brand new i the garage and my son is folling about with Cotroen 2CV but has a another new Mercedes!
Tonight, I am drinking at the workingmen's club pn Famous Grouse whisky but on Sunday might I'm in the Conservaticlib drinking finest maly, Monday I'm in my 2nd best morning suit and with a solid gold Waltham but today, I', off to gave coffee with a multi millionaire who owns 2 factories and I', wearing a short that my lste wife wore more than 5 years ago.
It's a qusestion of judgement
Norman
Hello Norman,
Jack620 was maybe just trying to be nice, and stop my sobbing.
There is nothing that I can make, that cannot be done better by someone else
that is my fate, luckily not fatal.Here we are: One is beeing accused of having no taste (who only tried to be nice), one start sobbing again, third one starts snobbing.
Greetings Timo
