Kerzel Hit and Miss

[Path]

Nice work ... thanks for sharing.

Looking forward to more great pictures.


Pat H

 

[weez]

The next parts are the two base sides/bearing supports. After drilling and tapping the holes in the bottom I center drilled where the center of the bore will be. Then drilled two 1/8" holes tangent to where the angled portion will be.


After mounting in the four jaw chuck I indicated the piece using a pump center in the center drilled hole.


Then turned the boss.


Using two 1/8" drill bits resting on parallels, I clamped the piece at the correct angle in the mill vise.


And milled down until the holes were gone. Then drilled and tapped the holes for the bearing caps.


Repeated the process to make a mirrored one for the other side. I will wait to make the bores until the bearing caps are done.

 

[weez]

Next up are the bearing caps. First center drilled the centers of the two bores and milled the flats on the tops.


Then mounted on the rotary table using a spud in the quill to center on one of the bores.


Rounded the top, flipped the piece and repeated for the other side.


Using a hacksaw, cut the two pieces apart.


Milled the bottoms flat on both pieces.


Then milled flats and drilled clearance holes for the mounting screws.


Here are the finished pieces without the bore. I will bolt these to the bottom halves and bore them together.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Looking very nice. I am following with great interest.---Brian

 

[AussieJimG]

I am learning a lot from your machining sequences.

Jim

 

[gus]

Me too.

Now deciding if I should make another face-plate or just drill on the existing slotted fp. Both are painful decision.

 

[weez]

Thanks Brian, Jim, and Gus. I am glad you are enjoying the build. Today I finished the bores in the bearing supports and caps. After mounting the caps to the bearing supports I drilled the bores using a 1/2 inch drill.


Then mounted them to the base, clamped it on edge in the mill vise, and finished the bores using the boring head.


Here are all the finished pieces assembled. Next up will be the crankshaft. I am going to attempt a one piece crankshaft.

 

[Swifty]

Very neat build, I'm following along with interest.

Paul.

 

[gus]

Thanks Brian, Jim, and Gus. I am glad you are enjoying the build. Today I finished the bores in the bearing supports and caps. After mounting the caps to the bearing supports I drilled the bores using a 1/2 inch drill.
View attachment 68511

Then mounted them to the base, clamped it on edge in the mill vise, and finished the bores using the boring head.
View attachment 68509

Here are all the finished pieces assembled. Next up will be the crankshaft. I am going to attempt a one piece crankshaft.
View attachment 68510

Hi Weez,

Very well done . You have raised the bar.. Will be tough to keep up with Weez. My jobs are very ''Russian'' looks untidy outside. Worked on Russian Air Compressors which had very rough casting finish but the internal very well done.
Will try hard to get very good finishing on next job.

 

[dreeves]

Great looking engine keep up the pictures. Can't wait to see it running

Dave

 

[weez]

I finally completed the crankshaft today. The first step was to center drill both ends in the mill.


Then I milled out the majority of material from the center of the throw. Note the 1/4" rod sticking out the left end. I welded this on to drive the piece when mounted between centers in the lathe.


I mounted it between centers in the lathe and turned the throw using a 1/16" parting tool. This step was the most nerve racking of the build so far because of the interrupted cut and having to have the parting tool extended about an inch. I took very light cuts and used lots of cutting fluid, yet it felt as if I was about to break the tool the entire time. I was really glad to get this done without incident.


After a lot of time with a hacksaw, I remounted on the lathe. I used a 3/8" bolt in the center web to keep it from flexing.


Then turned down the rest.


Finally parted of each end to length.


And the finished crankshaft.

 

[gus]

Hi Maestro Weez,

Gus will monkey see/monkey do when he machine same crankshaft. All my prefabbed c/shafts were disasters.
Hopefully will get the H&M going this week on the Rupnow H&M Engine going.

 

[weez]

Here are the bearings. First drill and ream to 7/16".


Then turn down to 9/16".


And part off leaving a 1/32" flange.


After repeating for bearing #2, here are the finished pieces.

 

[weez]

And now for the cylinder liner. I started with a chunk of 1" cast iron. Turned it down to .950" with a 1" lip on the end.


Then drilled the bore with a 1/2" drill and used a boring bar to get the final bore dimension of .75".


Parted off to length.


And the finished liner. I used a brake cylinder hone to smooth out the bore.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I used 316 stainless for my Kerzel cylinder, because I didn't want to look into the water reservoir and see rust. I have been told since that 316 stainless was a bad choice for cylinder material if you plan on using metal rings to seal the piston. I used a Viton o-ring, and have never had a problem.

 

[weez]

I used 316 stainless for my Kerzel cylinder, because I didn't want to look into the water reservoir and see rust. I have been told since that 316 stainless was a bad choice for cylinder material if you plan on using metal rings to seal the piston. I used a Viton o-ring, and have never had a problem.

I thought of using stainless but I am not sure if my lathe is rigid enough to get good surface finish on stainless. It seems to struggle enough with mild steel. What type of lathe do you have? Do you use coolant when machining stainless?

I am also going to use an o-ring instead of cast iron rings. I already went through your build log to find out the correct groove size for the piston. Thank you for the great build log for me to reference. I'm sure I will be referencing it again in the near future.

 

[Path]

Weez,

Looking good thanks for sharing.
Lots of nice photos ...

I'm also using SS316 for the cylinder in Brian's Hit and Miss with a Viton O-ring.
Should work without a problem.


Pat H

 

[Brian Rupnow]

My lathe is a BusyBee 10" x 18".--The 316 seemed to machine as easy as cast iron or mild steel.-Brian

 

[weez]

After a short break from the shop I made the piston. First I milled a square section on the end of a piece of 1 inch cast iron rod. I will use this square section when drilling the wrist pin hole and when milling the slot inside the piston for the connecting rod to ensure that they are perpendicular.


Then I mounted in the lathe using the four jaw chuck and turned the final diameter of .750".


Using a boring bar I bored out the inside to .625.


Then cut the o-ring groove using a parting tool. Thank you to Brian Rupnow for providing the proper groove size in his excellent build thread of the Kerzel.


Over to the mill to drill and ream the wrist pin hole.


I am going to use two set screws to retain the wrist pin so I drilled and tapped the 4-40 holes and then milled the slot for the connecting rod.


And finally the finished piston.

 

[Draw-Tech]

Hi weez

Nice work. I used 17-4 stainlesssteel for my crank.

Jack
Draw-tech