Its First-Steam-Engine time!!

[Runner]

I suppose I will have to be patient and wait and see, but is the flywheel going to be outboard of the brass base plate as you have shown in your previous mock setup? If so, the two bearings you have incorporated appear to serve only as local support for the crank and flywheel and not support either side of the flywheel. There was a recent discussion on a thread on HMEM that proposed that a flywheel not supported on both sides by bearings caused excessive bearing wear on the bearing that was supporting it on one side only. Your flywheel appears to be beefy so maybe you like to consider this point.

 

[Anko]

Thanks for the advice runner, the bearing goes with bushings that i'm planning to do with phosphor bronze, the crank will be made of hardened silver steel rod.

As far as I know, phosphor bronze is tough, and will retain very well lubrication as absorbs oil because is porous.

I think that should be enough, what do you think?, aslo can try with the Technyla90, seems to be like a superb for bushings.
Although it seems a little late to change the desing, maybe a carefully selection of materials can compensate this desing problem, is curios, because all well sized real stationary horizontal steam engines uses the flywheel suported on both sides, but the medium size vertical engines shows a one side suported flywheel.

Can you please attach that post link or the name to search it?


Gus: I'm glad that you like my little engine, the plans can be found in the web for free, but they need a little work, also they are in german.

Here is the link where you can download it: http://www.john-tom.com/html/SteamPlans3.html is the one called "single cylinder vertical steam engine"

I have made several modifications in my built, following the general dimensions, as you will see: the column design as the cylinder steam-ports design and so on...

I will bring you more progress soon!

Saludos

 

[django]

Hi Anko
The material you are thinking of making your piston from is tufnol (carp brand?) http://www.tufnol.com/tufnol/default.asp?id=21 I personally would go for a cast iron piston and if you were only going to run it on compressed air possibly asingle O ring. I think the workmanship that you have shown in this thread is exemplary and this engine deserves a better flywheel tha you have shown,Maybe some thing more like the one on here http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2erdgtools%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fsearch%2ehtml&WD=stuart&PN=GENERAL_WORKSHOP_TOOLS_%2ehtml%23a1585#a1585 Keep up the good work.

 

[Runner]

Thanks for the link to the plans, I have downloaded it also. On the subject of the single flywheel bearing issue the plans don't appear to give dimensions for the flywheel, although it can be determind from the drawing. It is presented as a solid type wheras yours has spokes, so yours may be a lighter and weight has an influence on bearing wear.

The previous discussions on single bearing for the flywheel was raised by blogwitch on thread http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/stuart-no-4-build-16908/index15.html. Unfortunately the ensuing discussions got deleted during the transistion of ownership and software changes. I don't want to set hares running (alarm you unnecessarily) by raising the point.

I think that blogwitch raised the point from a perspective of having models that were run often and for long periods at model engineering shows. If you intend to run your model for long periods, then it may be an issue, otherwise keep to your plan.

 

[gus]

Hi Anko,
I got this engine print from the net. Will built another engine using your soldier jig.
Did follow print to build engine. Use twisted Teflon Sealing Tape to make piston ring seal.Runs well and does
wear out cylinder. Cylinder was aluminium with brass tube liner loctited. I deviated from print.

 

[gus]

Thanks for the advice runner, the bearing goes with bushings that i'm planning to do with phosphor bronze, the crank will be made of hardened silver steel rod.

As far as I know, phosphor bronze is tough, and will retain very well lubrication as absorbs oil because is porous.

I think that should be enough, what do you think?, aslo can try with the Technyla90, seems to be like a superb for bushings.
Although it seems a little late to change the desing, maybe a carefully selection of materials can compensate this desing problem, is curios, because all well sized real stationary horizontal steam engines uses the flywheel suported on both sides, but the medium size vertical engines shows a one side suported flywheel.

Can you please attach that post link or the name to search it?


Gus: I'm glad that you like my little engine, the plans can be found in the web for free, but they need a little work, also they are in german.

Here is the link where you can download it: http://www.john-tom.com/html/SteamPlans3.html is the one called "single cylinder vertical steam engine"

I have made several modifications in my built, following the general dimensions, as you will see: the column design as the cylinder steam-ports design and so on...

I will bring you more progress soon!

Saludos

Hi There,

I did build this German Steam Engine. The support columns was a wee bit clunky.After viewing your handiwork,I plan to build another. Will take time to build.You are right.The print has some fatal errors.Plan to make a fancy wheel with spokes.

Gus.

 

[Anko]

Thanks Gus, I finally make some test on the materials, scratching a brass sheet, the durotocon without be able to scratch the brass, the feel was like some very fine sandpaper, and also made like a clean polish on the surface, the technyl feel was a lot more fluid and dont even made a mark on the brass, so I tink I will give a shot with the technyl for the piston.

I look the post about the bearing issue, and I was following that build for a while but I didn't notice that

I´m still thinking about the best combination of bushing v/s crank metals...

Continuing with the engine:

I don't know if this was unnecessary work, but I made another solder jig to unite the columns with the crosshead guide part, I was feeling that although this pieces put together it was a very close fit, and has very little play, I needed something that ensure me that the piece will be the most posible way scuare and perpendicular to the base, at the correct heigth and position, then I came with the jig:

The idea is that the jig is firmly bolted to the base, and put in place with some chanels that fit very close to the sape of the base, then a pillar with some pressing nut, with they faces making a 60° angle, this fits the countersink of both sides of the bore in the piece and it will hold it tight. inside also the diameter fist the bore diamenter.

like this:

(It's my first time turning between centers, and it was difficult, I got some heavy chatter in the tailstock extreme, but geting close to the other side it went ok)

(No matter the shape of the tool or the sharp of the tool, I only was able to machine it good at the lowest speed and with tiny cuts and the most low feed I can do, using a very sharp Hss bit, like the parting tool shape... any ideas?? )

then I put some reinforcements in the columns, their mission is to keep the column assembly in the time that I'm soldering, and also help with the strenght in general.

the pins are M3x0.5, just put a hole and tap it M3, then screw the pin with loctite

Then its ready to solder!

Now back to the sanding!

Thanks for viewing this! more to come!

Saludos

 

[rhitee93]

The engine is still looking very nice. I have learned a few things from your soldering methods!

 

[Maryak]

(It's my first time turning between centers, and it was difficult, I got some heavy chatter in the tailstock extreme, but geting close to the other side it went ok)

(No matter the shape of the tool or the sharp of the tool, I only was able to machine it good at the lowest speed and with tiny cuts and the most low feed I can do, using a very sharp Hss bit, like the parting tool shape... any ideas?? )

Saludos

Anko,

Looking at your set up:

The live centre held in the chuck is pretty small in length so the chuck has not much to grip on, especially as it looks like the piece used formerly had a thread on it, which reduces the grip by the chuck even more.............So, this could be slowly sliding into the chuck as pressure is applied by the cutting tool.

The other possibility is everything is not fully locked down at the tailstock end.

I have a gut feel the 1st possibility is the more likely.

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob

 

[SilverSanJuan]

Very nice jig. You really approach each step with a lot of thought about what could go wrong. Then you make an elegant solution. Good show!

Todd

 

[gus]

When you get it running,please post a video. Engine has long stroke and will run at very low speed that is you could see it run stroke by stroke.A throttle valve required .Needle valve will do.

Looks like I will build another engine using your column style.Right now I am about to decide building the " Firefly 0.46 Glow Plug Engine" from drawings taken from UK Model Engineer Magazine. I have cold feet.

Are you a retired "Tool & Die Maker".Only such people are so detailed and competent and can build and complete jobs to superp finishing.

I have friends in Johannesburg,S. Africa who are ex-Tool& Die maker. Some almost quit their apprenticeship 6--12 months into the job. Their Maestro were either German or Dutch. They demand perfection in everything. Filing,hack-sawing and chiselling must as per his instructions.

 

[Anko]

Thank gus! dont worry about the video, I will post it for sure (if it run )

Sometimes I like to imagine that I'm a veteran tool & die maker, with all my old, but very well care, brown & sharpe and mitutoyo tools, all with their old yellow paper certificades of authenticity and their vintage wood box...

as I have develop a serius weakness for precision tools... and a long one for vinage stuff

but Im not a retired tool & die maker, in fact, Im a beginner in metalworking, I have my machines for a couple of years now, but I have made just some few things because of a lack on time.
I´m a electrical engineer student, and the time I dont spend in class or studing, I work for tooling me up.

The reason, I think, for this engine to be going so well, is the fact that I started to watch this forum much before I get a metalworking machine, and for severals time at day, all the days... I checked all the building threads and interesting posts, for all the time I've been registred, I have been learning a lot from the shadows (because I dont post too much), and I have learned from the real Tood & die makers and veteran machinist that they were here until recently (if you know what I mean)...

Well, back to the engine, Im planning to put a valve in the exhaust, but that will be some of the last parts, so for now Im not worry to much.

I have finished the emm (I really have some problem with the diferent parts of the engine names) piece of the steam ports valve:

The pieces are put together with a press-fit and loctite

Thinking again that brass with brass don't get along, what material should I use for the little valve piece that moves between the steam ports? I'm not sure about the material wear in this part of the engine, any sugestions?



For the flywheel, I got my little pulley a sand treatment, to remove paint and dust.

django: I have some big plans for the flywheel, dont worry! you´ll see ;D


And a preview of the engine assembly:

Looking good!

Saludos

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Anko---Very nice, well documented build. I just read all the posts, and you are doing a fine job.---Brian

 

[dsquire]

Anko

That engine is progressing very nicely. You may be just starting on you journey down the road to becoming a Master Machinist and craftsman but judging by you work you have made a very good start. As you have stated, a person can learn a lot watching someone else if they want to learn. I am glad to see you sharing your project with the HMEM members.

Cheers

Don

 

[gus]

No worry about the brass and brass sliding contacts.
My German Steam Engine have following brass and brass
Steam chest and slide shoe
Cross head and sliding column
Eccentric and strap

The engine is not build for continuous long life operation. After the novelty wears out,engine will go on display and
maybe run once a while.

Material for my engine came from scrap pile.
Cylinder and outerheads aluminium
Cylinder liner -------brass tube loctited in.
Engine base aliminium
Piston rings--------rolled/braided TFE tape(came from Stan Bray)
Piston rod packing-----( same)
Vave rod packing-------coiled soft soldier wire

No leakage.
I am no good at building show piece. Your engine beat mine hands down.Time allowing,I may build new engine as show piece.
It is true the drawings did have some dimension errors.

 

[vcutajar]

Anko

Keep up the good work.

Vince

 

[ironman]

Anko, great job. Won't be long now before it runs. Keep up the good work.

Ray

 

[Anko]

Thanks guys

Hey Gus your engine looks great, the "show piece" stuff is no more that a good polish and some mirror like finish, put some sandpaper to your columns and you will see!

And hey, dont get me wrong, I do not own any brown&sharpe or mitutoyo tools, it just my far away dream...

Today I became a manual CNC-man in order to make the tap of the steam chest:

Then I give a try to make a little stainless steel plate that goes inside the chest tap, but hell, SS is a hard one to work!, although I know that SS is not a very good machineable alloy, I never came to think that it will be so hard to hand-work it, I just waste 30 minutes of my life....

I think I will find me a pantographer to get the job done.


Then I made some small pieces of the steam chest:

The plans said that this little pieces should have a hex head, and I made one and I didn't like, I prefer how they see rounded, so his one will be goiing directly to the scrap box.

Thanks for watching!

Saludos

 

[gus]

Just how did you cut the beautiful pattern??? You got to be a vet Tool & Die Maker !!!!


Your superb workmanship is a good example for Gus.

 

[robcas631]

Outstanding work!