Hot Water Heater Furnace

[skyline1]

Hi Bovine

The Tuyere or tweer as you spelt it should enter the furnace tangentally at the side of the furnace so the flame swirls around the crucible. Pointing it directly at the crucible could cause uneven heating and possibly crack the crucible ( if you are using Clay /Graphite ones)

BTW I believe your spelling is the old derivation of the word and I have seen it spelt that way in foundry circles myself so not necessarily incorrect though tuyere tends to be the more common spelling.

Regards Mark

 

[100model]

Herbiev

I am in Victoria. The kaowool was purchased at a auction. If you look up the yellow pages in your area under "insulation or refractories" you should be able to some locally.

 

[Bovine]

Hi Bovine

The Tuyere or tweer as you spelt it should enter the furnace tangentally at the side of the furnace so the flame swirls around the crucible. Pointing it directly at the crucible could cause uneven heating and possibly crack the crucible ( if you are using Clay /Graphite ones)

BTW I believe your spelling is the old derivation of the word and I have seen it spelt that way in foundry circles myself so not necessarily incorrect though tuyere tends to be the more common spelling.

Regards Mark

Thanks Mark,
Tangential it is. Thanks for the knowledge.
Bovine

 

[Herbiev]

Thanks for the info 100model. I too like the style of your furnace and hope to make a similar one

 

[scruffy]

subscribing to this as I will be setting up this before I get a lathe and the great info on here will help me out, especially as Im in Vic too and the great p[osts on where to find stuff is right around the corner

 

[Bovine]

Does anyone have a suggestion for the exhaust port diameter in the lid of my furnance? I am conflicted between having the ability to add metal with the lid closed and having too large and losing heat.

 

[Bovine]

To make preparations to install the tuyere, I drove a wooden peg into the center of a 3/4" bung to index my whole saw.
I am not sure at this point wether I will file the hole to fit the tuyere insert or box it out so I have a square flange to attach the burner.

 

[Bovine]

Talked myself into boxing out the tuyere opening. Oh, my welds need grinding...

 

[Bovine]

I came across this the other day. Calibrated in F*

 

[Herbiev]

Only trouble is cast iron melts 1300 celcius and meter goes to 1287.77 celcius.
But at $400 worth you scored well

 

[starnovice]

Bovine,
You should weld a short piece of pipe to the tuyere box. It will help to keep the torch balanced in the right position. I did not do this and now I have to prop my torch up with bricks to get it in position. Looking forward to "first melt".

Pat

 

[Bovine]

Lid is tamped with refractory.

 

[Herbiev]

Looking good. I too am looking forward to the first melt.

 

[ron2]

Most of the lids I have seen have one hole in the center, such as from a plastic tub of butter.
Even if you find the hole to be over sized it is a simple matter to cast a smaller piece to set over
that hole with a smaller hole in the center. Then to add more metal all you need do is move the
smaller lid. ron2

 

[Bovine]

Ron,
I made the decision to use the three, 1" holes in the lid for venting. Hopefully heat will stayin and I will have to slide the lid to load ingots.

 

[Bovine]

I mixed the refractory to manufacture's specifications for tamping, which was 9-10 pints per 100lbs.
The consistancy was pretty grainy but it tamped well. I liked using a 2x3" piece of lumber more than a 1" piece of bar stock.

 

[Bovine]

I sacrificed a vacume wand for the tuyere opening. Manufacturer suggests at least 10 hours for a complete set before putting the heat to it. I will have to keep the temperature below the boiling point of water until it is completely dryed out.

 

[Bovine]

I grew impatient. I justified the fact if using minimal water in the mix for a short dry time. It cured after only 10 hours.
I now need to tackle the issue if tongs. Anyone have any pictures for inspiration?

 

[steze48]

It just so happens that I am building one at this time also...
I tore into an old hot water heater we replaced after going all electric...
This one was lined with the expanding foam and will take some effort to remove.
It was for propane and may use parts of the burner.
I drew up a simple drawing of a set of tongs that I will try to make from rebar...
I have a bunch of cycle crankcases here that need to be melted down....
Didn't want to make one from steel as the iron will contaminate the aluminum...
I am going to cut a 4" hole in the lid as to add metal to the crucible...
With the left over refractory, I will cast up the brick for the bottom and one for the top vent...
That way I can control how much vent will be needed
I ordered a crucible from here..
http://www.lmine.com/mm5/merchant.m...duct_Code=17365&Category_Code=budget_graphite
I would like to cast my own engine cases,heads, and parts.
Anyone casting with core moulds?

Steve